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THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
^
^e>
Life in a Yorkshire Village
(With special reference to the Evolution,
(Aistoms. Folklore, and Legends of
(^arlton-in-(>leveland, this village being
taken as a type)
Bv J. FAIRFAX BLAKFZBOROUGH
(Siwrtiiifr Etlitor of "The Onlooker ")
Author of "Enxlaiids Oldest Hunt." "Cievelaiul
and its Hunt. " Noitliern Racing Records,"
" Life in a Training Stable," etc., etc.
Stockton -U.N -Tkes : The Yorksliire Publisliing Co., 24 Trent Street.
MlDDLESBKOUGH :
Jordison & Co., Ltd., Printers and Puldishers. MDCCCC.XIL
DA
CONTENTS
PAGE
Foreword
CHAPTER I.
Notes on Village History, Life, Sports and Customs 1
Chapter ii. Village Industries (Alum and Jet Working, Spinning and Bleaching), Old-time Dress, Superstitions and more Customs . . . . 21
CHAPTER III.
The Marwoods, their connection with Peter de Bruce, and position as Lords of the Wapentake of Cleveland, the Gjers of Busby Hall and the Hall Ghost '. , . . . 51
CHAPTER IV.
TheManor House (or Old Hall) and its Legends .. 73
CHAPTER V. AND VI.
The Remarkable Ecclesiastical History of the
Village ■ . . . . 93
The Burning and Building of Churches, together with a word on the (*atholic Faith and St. Botolph , . . . 123
CHAPTER VII.
The Faiining Parson . . . . . . . . 141
CHAPTER VIII.
'Vhr Parson's Public House 165
CHAPTER IX.
Faceby : the Suttons and Morrisons. Village
'traditions and ('hurch Evolution .. .. 179
CHAPTER X.
Parochial Varia : Village Stories, Experiences,
Dialect, Folklore, Wit, Customs, etc. .. 205
QOl'722
EHGIiISH LOCAL
FOREWORD
At a day when, whether to our profit or to our loss, so many familiar landmarks are disappearing from our ken. or are in course of transformation into something, perhaps rich, but certainly strange, it may not be presumptuous to hope that this unpretentious chronicle of -' Life in a Yorkshire Village," may be of some- thing more than sentimental value. If the mirror these pages hold up to life is small, at anj^ rate it reflects many far-reaching changes in the manner of living and in outlook of life, in the tasks of labour and the manner of their accomplishment ; shifting ideas, new ideals flit across it, it shows the slow tooth of tim.e gnawing at and reshaping the customs, pastimes, philosophy, l)eliefs. and speech of our country folk.
It is with these the historian of the future, when he renders count of the " mettle of our pasture," will have to reckon.
And this mettle is. as I know it, raciest of the soil in Yorkshire village life. These communities are self- contained, and, at any rate, until the other day, were self- sufficient. The very conditions of their establishment and existence postulate it. True, they are microcosms but none the less cosmic. The dweller in towns, who has groVvn up to I'egard village life as a featureless monotony, an Arcadian captivity, chequered [pace Mr. Thomas Hardy and other distinguished realists) liy uncouth criminality, may no doubt regard this claim as partisan. But take almost any Yorkshire village whose loots strike back into the past, and
VI. FOREWORD.
you will find thei'e, as it is my endeavour to show in the pages that follow, quaint old-world customs, weird legends and traditions, curious beliefs (you may call them superstitions if you like), gnarled and independent characters, an almost feudal regard for the squirearchy, a keen uncontaminate affection for sport for sport's sake, and above, over all and through all, the influence of Holy Church and of the successive priests who have served her.
We are, you may say, still adscripti glebae, r.s adhesive to the soil as we were in the dark days of the Middle Ages. No doubt you are right but I claim that for this very reason we are racy of the soil and that our leaders at Armageddon will have to reckon with mettle of our pasture as Henry did at Agincourt.
There are numberless other village communities such as I have in mind throughout the length rnd breadth of the land, in addition to those in my own beloved Shire. There are villages tucked away in the folds of the Cotswolds, and a few remote hamlets, fewer every day, hidden away among the Sussex downs that might serve my purpose. But to illustrate my text I have thought it well to confine my story to a single village that might stand as representative of many, as it were an architype of a typical Yorkshire village. ]\Iy choice has fallen on one of the fairest in all Yorkshire — Carlton-in-Cleveland. For while I found here all the characteristics common to most other ancient village settlements in our Shire of Broad Acres I discovered a great deal of distinctive interest, of interest peculiar, perhaps, to Carlton itself. So to my chronicle of life in a Yorkshire village from the earliest records, I have added the unparalleled story and tragedy of the Church in Carlton-in-
FOREWORD. Vll.
Clovchnd. which a sketch of the Rev. John Latimer Kyle. M.A., the present vicar, seems to round off. All Yorkshire knows him for a parson who builds churches, rides to hounds, and farms his own glebe. He is a parson who enjoys his day with his gun, as keenly as a day with hounds. Moreover, if never a sinner, he is now a publican, in so far that he is licensee of one of the hostelries in the village. The vicar of Carlton, it seemed to ir.e. fitted into the picture, for he too is racy of the soil, and lends the human interest of a strong personality to the setting.
My acknowledgn.ents due for ungrudging assistance are many. To the Vicar of Carlton and Mrs. Kyle I am indebted for a good deal of the information I have collected in the pages that follow, no less than for their encourage m.ent, without which this volume would probably never have l)een written. I also take this opportunity for expressing my thanks to the Rev. J. C. Fowler for historical data, to the Rev. P. H. Ditehtield. Rev. R. Withington, and Rev. R. Prowde for their ansv\ers to some enquiries, to Mr. W. H. Burnett for the use of his notes, to Mr. Mello for the loan of photographs, and to the Editor of The Onlooker for son:e assistance in their reproduction. To the authors from whom I have " borrowed " I have expressed my obligations in the text.
Norfon,
Storkton-on-Tees.
CHAPTER I.
NOTHS ON KARLY HISTORY AND EVOLUTION
Contents of Chapter :
carlton — a picture and reality, early owners, gower, the poet born near, curious local agricultural action, bull-baiting at carlton, the maypole and opposition, the inn becomes the vicarage, the ghost thereof.
CHAPTER I.
Amid a plethora of surpassingly beautiful hamlets and villages in Cleveland, that of Carlton is perhaps, "the fairest of the plain." Situated on a loop road, half a mile from the Stokeslej^ and Northallerton highway, it nestles under the very shadow of the Cleveland Hills. To it the summer winds carry as their burden the sweet scent of the heather, whilst the rude blasts of winter leave behind them much of their ferocity on the mountain top, whence they exchange their wild- ness for the hoot of the owl and the yap! yap! of the fox calling for her mate. At the foot of the hills, as though suppliant for protection, lies Carlton, a village so small and seemingly so unimportant, that the earh^ historians have almost ignored its existence, and later day writers have, in their worship of scenic beauty, forgotten its stor}". It has been said " Happ}^ is the country A\ithout a history," and there is a wealth of reasoning ill the trite assertion. So pastoi'al, so peaceful^ so altogether lovely is Carlton, that the casual visitor may be excused when he. imagines that he has at last discovered an idyll and an ideal — a tiny spot isolated from all that is sordid, innocent of all the turmoil and fretful striving of the outside world. There is everything to persuade the soulful man and woman that he has left the grim world behind him, that he has shaken off his feet the dust of petty jealousies, of sinful lusts, of clamouring crowds, and that side of life to which Jerome K. Jerome referred when he wrote : —
4 THE IDEALISTS CONCEPTION.
" Never ending is the wild procession. Day and Night you can hear the quick tramp of the myriad feet — some running, some walking, some halting and lame ; but all hastening, all eager in the feverish race, all straining life and limb and heart and soul
Entrance to Carlton Xillatre from Kacebv direction, showiii"- Carlton Bank.
to reach the ever-receding horizon of success cheek by cheek they struggle onward. Screaming, cursing and praying, laughing, singing and moaning they rush past side by side."
One sighs to disillusionise the idealist, vet this book must more or less paint the picture with its back ground. The eye of the artist, the conception of the scenic worshipper, the impressions of the poet, the
THINGS ETHEREAL AND THINGS PRACTICAL, 5
affections of the townsman who yearns for the quiet of rusticity, all find their several inspirations in one aspect of the picture. Were they circumspect, they would find their ideal imperfect, and their idol possessed of feet of cla}-. One would not have them circumspect, nor quell the welling of their souls. This preparation for the back ground of the picture is not to lift the veil from that which is transcendent ly beautiful and heavenly, so as to shoAv that which is actual and human. The objective is rather to place on record what must be more or less counter to an idealistic conception— that Carlton -in-Cleveland, hidden away from the world, apparently so endowed that men may, from generation togeneration,live lives of uninterrupted restful quietude, is not without its story, not Avithout its history. When one descends from things ethereal — to things practical, from things spiritual — and art and poetry and beauty worship are invariedly that — to things human, then is one circumspect, then is one looking at the back ground .
Despite isolation, notwithstanding its S«iss-like pastoral situation, Carlton has a history so pregnant Avith tragedy, so full of romance, so punctuated with hope and striving, with optimism and faith, that I doubt if a parallel could be found in all England. All this, ni}' masters, is the back ground of the picture, on the canv^as of which one sees the little village with its old red roofed houses standing high ii]) on each side of the road, shaded by tall trees, whose boughs beat time to the ri])pling of the stream from mountain- wards : whose children play their rural games, and whose digniiied and massive church stands high up as a sentinel and guardian of the whole. The picturesque Manor house, the busy village smithy, the
6 THE PLACE NAME : CARLTON.
ancient vicarage, the wooded mound on which the bnll-rmg is situated, the httle school, and the ever- lasting hills with their winding red roads, their rich colouring of bracken, heather and woodland, all come in the picture. Cowper has left Avord paintings of such rural havens. Gray, in his wondrous Elegj^ poured out his very soul o'er such a scene, Marlow, Coleridge, Byron, Milton and Wordsworth were all enraptured hj less perfect scenes.
Some years ago Mr. E.Hornung made Carlton the locale of one of his novels, and with certain license allowable to novelists, wove round a chapter of Carlton history, the intensely interesting story Peccavi. The details of this story are more or less founded on fact, yet the Avorld in its ignorance said — " over-drawn." " ex- travagant," "interesting, but impossible," and so forth. True indeed is it that " Truth is stranger than Fiction," and a still truer truth is that the history of Carlton- in-Cleveland stands apart as a contrast, in fact to much with \\hich one would invest the village.
So now to proceed with the painting of some of the back ground and personality of the picture.
As Wordsworth has it : —
As with the stream our voyage we pursue, The gross materials of this world present A marvellous study of wild accident.
Graves surmises, that Carleton (as he spells it) was probably so named, as being when first inhabited Villa rustica, a town of husbandmen, and therefore called Carle's town.* The j)lace name is an oft recurring one in North Yorkshire and in the Domesday Survey Ave
* In Northmnbrensium PreysbyUroruni Leges, the possessors of land were divided into three classes — the King-'s thanes and lords of land — the proprietors of land — and the Ceorls, or husbandmen, who cultivate the soil.
Kev. .1. C. Fowler, M.A., informsime •' there are eight parishes named Carlton,
SOME EARLY OWNERS. 7
Hnil the settlement referred to as Carle-tun. Then it contained a car of land in the Soke of Seamer, held by Robert, Earl of Morton." from whence it descended to the Paynells. Ord gives a footnote in his History of Cleveland which runs thus :—
■■ Robert de Brus, departed this life .") id Mali, anno 6 Step, 1141, was hurried in the Abbey of Giseburne, leaving issue by Agnes his wife, daughter of Fouke Paynell. with whom he had the Manor of Carlton, &c. Afterwards, Carlton with other extensive Cleveland possessions became the property of the ancient family of Meinells. By the marriage of Elizabeth Meinell, daughter of Sir Nicholas de Meinell, born l.lth Oct., 1332. to Sir John D'Arcy, Knight, it descended to the family ; and by the marriage of Elizabeth D'Arcy, about the year 1420, it came to Sir Richard Strangwayes of Harlsey Castle. In this family it remained till the time of Sir James Strangwayes, of Whorlton Castle, Knight, who married Elizabeth, third daughter and a heir of Thomas Pigot, of Clotherholme, near Ripon. Esqre, who married secondly Charles Brandon, son of Charles. Duke of Suffolk, rem. Francis Neville, Marquis of Montague, when Parliament, by special act, granted it to Richard. Duke of (Gloucester, and afterwards, in the reign of Charles 1., to Charles Bruce of Kinloss, Ivul of Elgin and Baron Bruce of Whorlton, ancestor
chiefly in Lincolnshire, Notts and Vorksliiie, aii<l eleven other parishes named with i'arlton as a suttix. "Carl" enters into many other place names, an<l the Karl (.\nt^lo-Su\f)n : ( -eorl) was the ayricultiiral lahiiurcr of ancient Soandaiur. ia, and, althou'.;h the word may sometimes have heen >iscd as a personal name, it is ))roljahle that our Carlton and our Carlby represent the social rank of the orif^inal settler. It would he difficult to say whether the Carltons, of which there are several, in Lincolnshire, helon;; to the IJanish or to an earlier occupation, hut Oarlby corres- ponds exactly with Karlchy in Denmark." "The extract, adds Mr. Fowler, is from Streatfield's " Lin<-olnshire, and the Danes." (Jontimiinjj, Mr. Fowler adds: "The hest explanation of the word Carlton I once saw by a good anticpiary, hut, 1 cannot lind the reference in any of my books, although I have spent a good ileal of time in making the search. This authority said that all the Carltons were originally slave towns, C'burltons, or places wheie the Saxon slaves were kept. It strilves me this is the true exijlanation."
S THE MEYNELLS.
to the jiresent Marquis of Ailesbury. It is now principally the property of C'harles Reeve. Esq.. of Fareham, Hampshire, the lord of the Manor."
None of these early owners would reside in the village. though Nicholas de Meynell, when resident at Whorlton Castle (his principal house), would no doubt frequently be through it when on hunting expeditions, for he had
The Tomb of the Me\ nells at Wliorltoi'.
THE MEYNELL.S HUNTING RIGHTS. 9
granted him on July 16th, 53 Henry III, a charter of free park and game warren, and a market, which grant was confirmed ]>y Ed. I, on Nov. 24th. 1281. A
Avarren was next in degree to a park, so that Sir Nicholas had practically carte hlanche to hunt ^hat or where he would in the neighbourhood. Then-a-days it would seem that the land around Carlton had been brought into cultivation, but beasts of chase and venery would there aboinid. Nicholas (says Graves) held the Manors of Whorlton. Hutton Rudby, Seamer, and Middleton, \\ith the hamlets of Carlton, Potto and Trenholme of the Archbishop of Canterbury by the tenure of serving the said Arch- bishop with the cup, in which he should drink, on the day of his consecration.* The aforementioned authority continues regarding Meinell, or Meynell, and the future owners of Carlton :
'• He left issue a daughter, Elizabeth, who was hrst married to John, Lord D'Arcy. The D'Arcy family held the Manor for several generations, " till Philij), Lord D'Arcy and Meinell, who married Eleanor, daughter of Henry FitzHugh, died without male issue (0 Hen. V.). leaving his infant daughters his co-heirs, viz : — Elizabeth and Margaret — EUzabeth married James Strangwayes, Kt., and had Whorlton and other lands for her share upon the division."
It is not proposed to further cover old ground with which Graves, Ord, Atkinson, and in more recent years the present vicar of Whorlton (Rev. J. C. Fowler, M.A.), havealrcudy so fully dealt in their various works.
It is more the object of this work to ])lace on record that which has not already been committed to print,
♦Calendarof Close Rolls X\ I. IM. III. Wisiniinsicr.
^
10 THE POET GOWER. AND HIS LOCAL CONNECTION,
and to save from that yawning grave (which exists in every village and hamlet) much in this con- nection that is worth remembering. Dealing with epochs and events as nearly as possible in chronological order one must mention with a degree of pride that in the fourteenth century (Richard II) there lived at Sexhow, a mile or so from Carlton, the Gower family, who about this period were merged into the Laytons by the marriage of Elizabeth Gower, of Sexhow, with Sir Thomas Lay ton, Knight, of East Lay ton. John Gower, " poet and friend and contemporary of Chaucer" was descended from the ancient Sexhow family, and was born about 1320 at Stittcnham. It is worthy of note that in his ])oems one finds many words employed which are still in common use by Clevelanders to-day. For instance "■ algate " for a direction (usually in the sense of a profligate direction), ax for ask ; ee for eye ; fet. to be sufficient ; ne, no ; thoughter, remembered.
Keniaiiiiiitr Ruins ot Whnrlton Oastle.
WHORT.TON CASTLE AND MOUNT GRACE. 11
About this time, the good folk of Carlton would live, under the shadow , so to speak, of Whorlton Castle, look to it for protection, and upon it as the very centre of their little Avorld. They would be responsible for the provision of a certain amount of food for the table as well as for service when called upon. The law would be dispensed to a certain extent from its walls, and the rents for lands would be paid, probably in kind, by those who held land in Carlton at this period of its histor3\ If one allowed imagination to run riot, it would not be difficult to paint a pretty word picture of these early days when Carltonians were living in rude houses with a hole in the roughly thatched roof from which the smoke from the wooden fire, smoulder- ing on a floor of clay, found its way sky- wards. The labouring class were, in the best of circumstances, never very affluent about this period, their food, their clothing, their homesteads and life being of the roughest possible order. Work, meat, bed was the order of the daj'-, and one day did not differ from another except that on Sundays they would hear Mass, said by some visiting priest from Mount Grace (founded as a Carthusian Priory in 1397), or Stokesley, in their own tiny cha])el. which stood on the site of the present church, or they would walk to Whorlton Church. One thing is certain they would go to Mass. and in this respect the rude early forefathers of Cai'ltou can teach us a lesson. We must pass on, however, to days possibly less picturesque. l)ut certainly luoie icHiu-d and comfortable.
In the seventeenth century, the farm labourers in the Carlton neigliliDuriKKid. in cominoii with their con- temjjoraiics in many other parts of England, were feeling the pinch of poverty and privation. One
12
EARLY YORKSHIRE VILLAIJE LIFE.
has some hint at the poverty of the district in 1600, for at the Quarter Sessions held in that year at Hehnsley, there Avas jircsentcd " William
Mount (xi-ace Priory T\uiiis._
Marwood, of Busby, gentleman, for decaying x x x acres of arable land or thereabouts and converting XXX acres of land, the same from tillage unto pasture or meadow, and tilled nothing in the same parish in lue thereof, contrary, etc. (called Sike Close) — Super Sacram. John Fishick, const de Carlton."
EARLY YORKSHIRE VILLAGE LIFE. 13
The Editor of tlie North Riding Quarter Sessions Records adds a note : see 39 Ehz, which contains nmch curious matter as to the growth of sheep farming, leadmg "" to jnitting such lands as they (the farmers) can get to jiasture and not to tillage." All the evils are enumerated, such as raising the price of " Wine, Cattle and Wool. Fowls, etc., to almost double the prices, by reason whereof a number of people of this realme were not able to provide, meat, drink, etc., etc., but being discouraged that they fell to theft and robbery, etc." Some sheep farmers had as many as 24,000 sheep. The husbandmen were ruined and the tenements became mere cots." There was a preamble to the Act introduced by the Government in 1534 Avhich ran : —
" Forasmuch as clivers persons, to whom God in His goodness hath disposed great plenty, now of late have daily studied and invented ways liow they might accumulate into few hands, as well great multitude of farms as great plenty of cattle, and in especial sheep, putting such land to pastm*e and not tillage ; whereby they have not only pulled dowaa churches and towns, and enhanced the rents and fines of lands so that no poor man may meddle with it, but also have raised the prices of all manner of agrieuitiu-al commodities almost double the prices which hat?i l^een accustomed by reason where a marvellous nmnljer of people of this realm be not able to provide for themselves, thtnr wives, and children, but be so discouraged with misery and poverty, that they fell daily to theft and robbery or do pittifully die from hunger and cold."
A popular ballad of the day ran : —
Commons to close and keep
I'dDv folks for bread do cry and weep ;
Towns pulled d(j\\ii to pasture sheep. This is the new gyse.
14
EARLY YORKSHIRE VILLAGE LIFE.
Times mended, however, during the next century^ and though tremendous strides were made in social conditions we find the villagers of Carlton were given to bull-baiting in the eai'ly part of the 18th century. When speaking of refinement one must always take into account the epoch under consideration and the enlightenment thereof. The manners and customs of the cultured of one generation have frequently been the taboo of those who followed it. Language, literature, habits, life itself is passing through a continuous evolution and one cannot accurately judge one generation by that which folloAvs it. Bull-baiting when the Carltonians enjoyed it, was one of the recognised pastimes in England, and so our villagers and the neighbouring sports assembled on the raised hillock in front of the Vicarage and watched the bull
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Entrance to villa^'e, showinc: on tlic left Darnton Hill, on w liicli the Bull King is situated.
BULL-BAITING IN YORKSHIRE. l->
secured to the iron ring in the lilock of .stone, and then unleashed their straining dogs in turn and w atehed them thrown in all directions. At one period the sport (I save the mark) was encouraged by law for butchers who sold unbaited bull-beef laid themselvet* open to considerable penalties, in some Boroughs it being imagined that bulls so treated were more digestable. * The r((ison d'etre, however, was primarily to guard what was considered a manly recreation. We must not l)e too harsh in our con- demnation of the early Carltonians and others who assembled on Darnton Hill to Match the " set to "' — Autres temps autres moeiirs ! After the Restoration the pastime was resumed with much enthusiasm, and Sir Miles Stapleton replaced the ring for IniU- baiting, and the stone to which it was attached in the market place at Bedale in 1661. 80 late as 1809 they had bull-baiting at Pickering, although Pepys had condemned it as " a rude and nasty pleasure," and. Evelyn a year or two later confessed himself " most heartily weary of the rude and dirty pastime." An attempt was made to stop the sjjort in 1788, but not till 1839 was it finally suppressed, it being urged in the House of Commons in defence of the baitings ■■ that it tended to keep alive the spirit of the English Character, and to forhid it wonld encniach on th( liberty of Ihi subject " ! 1 !
The Carlton bull-ring| is still to be seen. The enclosed wooded mound 011 wliicli it stands belongs to the lad\- of tlic Manor and is at picscnt icntcd to the Vicar.
" in 1744, the Thiisk tiuU-licr.s were Hiieil "for exposing to sale and soUin^r ImllV flcHh in thJK market not having first been baited."
t The bull was led to the locale for i>ul)lic baiting by means of a roi>e aro\nid its neck. This was afteiwards fastened in llie ring, giving tiie animal abontl-severi yards "pla\."
\
16 THE MAYPOLE.
Passing on, and necessarily leaving considerable gaps, I must just make mention that in January, 1770 the " Newcastle Chronicle " recorded the fact that " a few days since a couple was married at Carlton - in-Cleveland, near Stokesley-in-Cleveland, whose ages made 140 years."
However reprehensible the bull-baiting may seem to us in our days we cannot but regret that the Maypole has disappeared from Carlton. It was standing forty years ago surmounted by a wooden fox, almost 8 feet long in the field behind the present schools and was attended with full ceremonial and pageant after the bull-baiting had become obsolete.
Urd in his " History of Cleveland."' says that Carlton is the only village in Cleveland in which he noticed the Maypole, and Whellan (vol. II p. 739) remarks " The ancient custom of merry-making and dancing round it is still kept up." It had been discontinued, however, in Ord's day (1846), much to his regret. He follows his mention of the Carlton maypole with a tirade against the kill-joy Puritans, who were responsible for the discontinuation of the ancient merry-making dating from Pagan times. Sinnington and Slingsby in North Yorkshire still retain their poles, though in an old MSS. in the possession of my father, I find that in this locality there was opposition, as witness the following : —
•'In the year 1701 , there did come a great company of broad brims (Quakers ?) for to stop the May dance about the pole at Sinnington and others acting by concert did the like at Helmsley, Kirbymoorsicle and Slingsby. Singing and praying they got them round about the garland pole, whilst yet the May-queen
THE MAVrOLE. 17
\\as not yet come, but «hen those with flute and drum and dancers came near, to crown the queen, the Inroad - brims did pray and sing psahns, and would not give way ; while at the finish up there was like for to be a <ad end to the day, but some of the Sinnington bucks did join hands in a long chain and thus swept them clean from the pole. At Slingsby there was a great dordum of a fight. For a great while the broad-brims have set their faces against all manner of our enjoy- ment.""
\Vith an old poem written in lb3i we are in full agreement : —
Stay, quoth my muse, there behold a signe
( )f harmlesse mirth and honest neighbourhood,
Where all the parish did in one combine
To mount the rod of peace, and none \\'ithstoo(l :
When no captious constables disturb them,
XoT justice of the peace did seeke to curb them.
Xor peevish Puritan in rayling sort,
Xor overwise churchwarden, spoyled the sport.
Happy the age, and harmlesse were the dayes
(For there true love and amity was found)
When every village did a Maypole raise
And Whitson ales and May games did abouml.
< 'oiiieident with tlie hey-day of the May-pole at
j Carlton were the Stocks and Whii)ping-
post at Stokesle}- where many a Carltonian sat as the sport of the j^outh ot the town. It u ill l)e noted later, Stokesley was the local Metropolis for justice, punishment and business, as, to a cei'tain extent, it is to-day.
•Stokfslcv .siock.s ami Whi])|>iri(f-]>ost
18
FOUR ALLS TNN BECOMES THE VICARAGE.
In 1788 the Four Alls Inn at C'arlton ^\•as purchased by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, and its sign being removed, it became the vicarage. Probably in these days the house was quite open to the road, the present garden having (like many another bit of village ground) been enclosed and appropriated (what a delightfully
IPRAYFORALL I PLEADFORALL IMAIHTAIN ALL IFICHTFORALL ITAHE ALL
Tlie Four .Alls Sign.
polite Avord appropriated is I ). The old house is extremely picturesque, and has been made all the more so by Mr. and Mrs. Kyle who did nuich to add to its convenience as well as charm during the time they lived there, prior to moving to the Manor House or Old Hall. The old sign of "The Four Alls," is not a very common one in the North. I remember one at Burneston (near Bedale). nou . I fancy no longer an inn, but cannot for the moment locate another. The sign was usually accompanied by these explanatory lines : —
The Parson prays for all.
The Lawyer pleads for all,
The Soldier fights for all
But the Farmer pays for all.
TTfK VTCARAGE GHOST. 19
I am told that though the inn was known as the " Four Alls'' the fifth '" all '" was included in the shape of His Satanic Majesty.
The Vicarage, like Busby Hall and the Manor House, is not without its ghost, though the author never saw her during the three winters he occupied the house as a hunting box. One old ladj^ told him that when she had to sleep there she used to " ton t'lookin' glass t^^Tang way roond an' bon a cannel all neet through." The candle was to frighten the ghost away and the turning of the looking glass so that the old dame should not see the spectre if it did make its appearance. This headless ghost is said to be the spirit of a a\ oman who was murdered and buried in the capacious cellars under the vicarage, " Oh yes ! t' vicarage is 'anted " urge the old Carlton folk and for any one merely to say they have not seen '' t' heeadless woman " is no evidence that she does not occasionally appear in astral form. " Seein' is belie vin " argue the older Carltonians : —
Wringing thin hands and vvliite.
Shadows of woe ; Mist likf^ they walk at night,
(i hosts that we know. Pacing the grass between —
Restless they tread. Parted, luiheard, nnseeii.
Poor lonely dead.
CHAPTER II.
VILLAGE LNDUSTRIES AND EVOLUTION
Co>;tents of Chapter :
alum and jet working tn cleveland, the parish registers, weaving, bleaching and old time dress, shearing, gleaning and mumping, passing of the yuletide porker, the scarths and yorkshire rose- whitk foxes.
VARIA.
CHAPTER 11.
Ill the ITtli and early part of the 18th century Carlton was (|uite famed as a centre for alum working, though so late as 1801. one finds no mention of the industry in the return made that year to the Govern- ment. The Carlton statistics showed that there were 66 houses or families in the parish, giving an average of 4,'. to each family. These were chieHy occupied in husbandry, except a few within the village, who, Graves tells us, were employed in the manufacture of coarse linen. Carlton Bank, prior to this date, how ever, was one of the principal centres for winning alum in the Cleveland district and the remains of the workings are conspicuous to-day. The possibilities of there-opening of the alum quarry were suggested in an advertisement legarding the Manor House, to which reference is made in another place. The production of alum by a much cheaper process brought to an end the operations on the hill-.sidc above Carlton, a ter- mination which poor George Markham 'I'wcdell thus I \i Imiat ically regretted : —
Tinic was when alum was the staple trade Of ('Icveland. at oui- feet ap[)ears to be Some old Nolcaiios crater. Industry < >f aluiii-w (t! kcrs muscles twas that made That huge abyss the oidy monument l!eiiiaitiinLr of thei?- toil ; but twill remain
24
ALUM WORKING IN YORKSHIRE
Whilst Cleveland's cornfields bear their golden grain, Or meads with grass are green. Here have been bent Hnndreds of stalwart forms in honest toil — I'seful as honest ! they have long since gone Mankind have progress'd A\ith slow march, but sure, Since Cleveland's Alum industry began At yonder Highcliff, under that sage man — (hie of an ancient race, brave, wise and pure, Who bore the honoured name of Chaloner. Through all the district Cleveland enterprise Made alum works in quick succession rise, A blessing on the country to confer, Till foul monopoly — ever a curse To commerce and to honest industrv —
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Guisborough Hall — tlif Seat of the Chaloiit'o
DISCOVERY OF ALT.M. 25
Blighted their prospects : and when Liberty Triumph'd at h\st in factory and burse, The trade had gone : for driven once aw ay. Our manufacturers are exiled for aye. Here now. where once the mountain was alive With stalwart toilers. I can sit alone. Musing on men and n.odes for ever gone. Once Carlton Bank was a m.ost busy hive.
We have to thank the second Sir Thomas Chaloncr. one of the fan:ily who have so long resided at (iuis- borough. and who have always been so intimately connected with fox-hunting in Cleveland, for the discovery which years ago proved so remunerative an industry in Cleveland. He was a distinguished naturalist, and was selected by .lames I. to superintend the education of his son. Prince Henry, for which services the King made him a free gift of £4. 000. To this Sir Thomas Chaloner belongs the honour of introducing the manufacture of alum in England During his travels in Italy, it is siid, he observed the sin ih.rity in the delicate green tint of vegetation near (iuisborough anrl that of the alum producing district of Puzeoli, and concluded it arose from the presence of the san e irineral. An examination of the strata levealed the existence of an aluminous s:dt in considerable abundance, so he determined on the erection of woik^ foi- the extraction of alum. It is lecoidcd he hiilx-d soire of the J'opes woi'kmen to accompany liiip |)ii\ately to England, whithei' he sn.uggled them in casks. Naturally, this exasperated the Pope, who had a hicrative monopoly of the alum trade, an.d he is said to ha\e fuhr.inated an aiiatlicnia against both the seducer and seduced.
26
PAPAL ANATHEMA.
The following is no exaggeration regarding the curse which the author's father was once allowed to see inscribed on vellum : —
He cursed him in body. He cursed him in mind. He cursed him before. And he cursed him behind :
Eiitnuii't' H-ill. (iuislKii Diijili Hall
From the crown of his head To the tip of his toe, Whatever he did, Or wherever might go. He cursed his connections, By land and by sea ; And still that his curse jNIore effective might be.
NATTRAL HISTORY. 27
All the pure host of heaven
Were called to his aid.
To sanction the curse
Which his malice had made.
Never was heard such a terrible curse
For which no one seemed a penny the worse.
The first \\orks were at Guisborough and were situated at Belman Bank, about two miles south-east of the town, and were carried on until the close of the ISth century, and recommenced in 1832 or 1853.
Following the reference to alum working it may here be appropriate to give an interesting natural history note Mr. Frank Elgee, assistant curator of the Dorman Museum, Middlesbrough, has kindly sent me. He says : —
"In the birch wood at the foot of the bank, there used to be found a very pretty and rather rare moth, known as the Orange Underwing. This insect appears in April, and flies round the birch trees in the early spring sunshine. In tin- old alum quarry at the top of Carlton Bank, it is possible to find many of the characteristic fossils of the Alum Shale, but the most striking peculiarity of this formation at Carlton is the comparative rarity of fossils, which, on the coast at Runswick Bay. Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay. are extremely co.nii'.on. There are very interesting sections in the Lias rocks near Carlton, the great Scars at Tom Gill being very noticeable. In the sandstone cjuarry at the \-eiy top of the baiik. numerous fossil ])lants occur, including the petrified trunks of trees. The plant remains consist principally of f(^rns and Cycads, the latter at the present day being restricted to tropical regions. The trunks prol)aIily Ijelonged
28 NATURAL HISTORY AND JET.
to Cycadaceous trees, and it is noteworthy that they are never found upright in the rocks, but are always horizontal showing that m hen the sandstone was formed i\\e trunks had been drifting in an ancient estuary. In fact, the sandstone rock of the moors and Cleveland Hills, belonging to the Oolitic Period, was deposited in a large estuary for it contains no marine fossils, simply the remains of the plants and thin seams of coal. On the horses and sandbanks of the estuary, there grew a strange tro]'ical vegetation consisting of ferns, Cycads and giant Horsetails, the latter being not unfrequently found petrified in the position of growth. Of course, this was many millions of years ago and long before the present outlines of the Cleveland Hills^ were formed."
After alum working had ceased. (,uarrying for jet was continued on the hills around Carlton, and there are in each of the neighbouring villages, inns bearing the sign '' The .Jet Workers Arms,"" whilst last year (1911) an attempt was made to re-open mines on the hill-sides above Broughton. some three males from Carlton. On Carlton Bank itself there are to be seen n^any jet workings. Some of them, years^ ago. I explored, though most of them arc now fallen in. There is a story of a keeper entering one of these jet workings Carlton, and finding himself unable to return, having lost his way. Fortunately, it was known whither he had gone, to look for some fox cubs, and a man in the village who had Avorked in this particular mine, was sent to find him. Nearly all the jet found in Cleveland was bought by Whitby dealers in its rough state, and sold as Whitby jet. It is said that that found in the Staithes locality was of
JET WORKING IN NORTH YORKSHIRE. 29
the best quality, but jet was worked for all over the Cleveland Hills, and even in the isolated valley of Bilsdale. It is said that over two thousand workmen were employed at Whitby a little over a quarter- of-a-century ago. transforming the jet from rough black lusterless lumps to the polished trinkets once so fashionable. Then it was that Whitby was a pros- perous and busy town. The Court adopted jet during mourning, and set the fashion. Necklaces, beads, crosses, buttons, brooches set with pearls, adorned the persons of the highest ladies in the land. Its popularity, in some degree, was responsible for its downfall. Cheap imitation of jet, which failed to keep its colour, was brittle and broke with the slightest provocation, was imported, most of it coming from kSpain. This made it possible for the maid to imitate her lady, which my lady resented by discarding her jet. The turn of events came suddenly, and jewellers were left with large stocks of jet on hand which some of them have not sold to this day. The industry is not, however, a dead letter, for one may still purchase jet souvenirs at Whitby and Scarborough, many being made and sold during the summer.
Many workings there are running into Carlton bank, and many a small fortune has been made and lost in prospecting for jet. These excavations are the home of tl r fox and the batlger, now-a-days, and, at the top end of Raisdale, and elsewhere, (|uite a number of the latter have from time to time inhabited them. IJobinson, in his history of Whitl)y (18(50), says: —
■■ An important branch of industrial art among us is the manufacture of jet ornaments, supplies of
30 JET WORKING IN NORTH YORKSHIRE.
which are exported to America, as well as to the nearer ports on the Continent, the district also taking the lead
in yielding the raw material The
" jet holes " in the latter (fonr miles south of Whitby) quarter, show signs of having been M'orked at a remote period. Tool marks are discernible, and stalactites have been found pending in overhead positions, with stalagmites at the same time affixed to the ground beneath."
" Jet may be properly classed, says Dr. Young, with fossil wood, as it appeal's to be wood in a high state of bitumenization* .... Raw jet varies in price according to its quality ; the soft being as low as two shillings the pound. The estimated number of men and boys employed in the jet working has been printed at 1,000 and this statement seems to be below the actual figures. The value of the articles manufac- tured at Whitby in 1856 stands computed at £20,000."
About the alum and jet epoch there were some interesting entries made in the parish registers, though in not a single instance was a word more than necessary written. Not till 1798 was the age of the persons buried included in the record and as " t'heead-stones "^ (as monuments to the dead are hereabouts called) were made from soft stone, which soon crumbled. The story of the church yard only goes back one generation.
Here are a few extracts from such of the registers as were not destroyed at the burning of the church : — -
1734 : March 19th, John, the son of Kothar, a traveller, was baptised and buried ten days later. We should imagine that Kothar and his wife would
* " Jet is really a fossil pitch or ffum, similar to amber, deri\ed from coniferou.-i flora ill the Liassie epoch." — Rev. .J. C. Fowler.
THE PAR1.S}! REGISTERS. 31
be gipsies, and that they liad tarried in Carlton \\liilst tlieir son \\as horn and till he was buried. En passant it niciy be interesting to mention that gipsies have (as should everyone) a tremendous veneration for the Srcrivment of baptism, and have been known to have their children baptised several times.
1734 : Se]it. 21st. Hannah Wright, a stranger, was Iniriod.
1734 : a stranger was buried. There
is something very ])athetic and at the same time unsatisfactory to the curious about this entry.
17." 7: INIary. daughter of Samuel 8utton. alum worker, was baptised. This is the first instance of an alum woiker l)eing mentioned in the register.
178.") : ■■ (ieorge Commins, paviper, buried."
17S.") : ■■ Elizabeth Maulcm. spinster and ])auper l)uiicd. Short shift and Httle honuigc for George and Kli/ahcth.
17.S7 : 31st May. Ann. wife of Moses Cust, collier, buried. Reference is made to the possibilities of " the collier " in Carlton later.
17'.>1 ; W'ilham Appleby, Cecily, wife of Peter Y'oung, and .\nn 'i'aylor. all paupers were buried.
171)4 : In this year and later we find several children of wcaveis being baptised and of them moi'c annon.
I7*.)S ; Dec. 22nd, '" Peter \'oung, a pauper, aged 88 was huiird. Pool' Petei' might have been laid ciuietly to rest without it being recorded foi- all lime that he was a pau])cr. though the fact would ha\'e much less intliu iKc in the other wculd than here.
32 THE Parish registers.
1799 : February 2nd. '' Mary Johnson, Widow, aged 96. was buried."" She'd been what Carltonian's call " a teeaf "un "" had Mary.
1799 : February 19th, John Wood, a butcher, aged 8.") was laid to rest.
1800 : March 27th. Thomas Bolton, a farmer, aged 100 was buried. W^hat a help to the completion of this book Tom would have been if he could have lived on I But very likely he would have refused to have " oppenned oot " like so many old folk do even if he had lived and one had tried to " draw him."
1800 : June 10th. Thomas Nicholson, was buried. He had reached his 88th year and no doubt the villagers Avould say one to another " He hessen't lasted lang efter awd Tommy Bolton."
1802 : January 11th. Thomas Deighton, farmer, was buried, aged 91. They lived to good old ages in these days when work was much harder, hours longer, luxury unknown, but solid food and sleep were abundant.
1803 : " Peter Worthy, collier, buried."' What Peter was doing at Carlton I knoA\' not, without he was one of the men in attendance on one of the strings of donkeys which used to bring coal in panniers into Cleveland from the Durham Collieries.
1812 : March 3rd. John Sharp, day labourer and and pauper was buried. Poor John ! with the wages he would receive as a " datal man "' (1/6 per diem or little more) and possibly a large family to rear he would have little else to look forward to but to die a pauper. He lived to be 78, and had no doubt worked nearly three score of these vears. In the Julv of the same vear
SPINNING AND WEAVING.
33
Mary Worthy a witlow and a i)aiipcr was buried, aged 80 and again on December 16th Dorothy Lowther, \\ idow, aged 98 years and 9 months was laid with her fathers.
We have now come to the opening of the nineteenth century. In 1800 the Government repoi't states that ■■ a few within the village (of Carlton) are employed
Till' S|iiniiin;^' Wind.
in the manufacture of coarse linens for sale." The produce of the linen makers would no doubt be taken to the Stokeslev fairs, which commenced with Lady Day, followed by Pahnsun, Trinity and Lammas. These fairs were noted for linens and Max. " wouncey " and stuff goods, and buyers came from London, the large towns in Voikshire anrl Lancashire and from Newcastle. It is worthy of note en passant that in
c
34 SPINNING. WEAVING AND BLEACHING.
1820, Thomas Mease introduced hand-Joom damask weaving of table cloths and napkins into Stokeslev, and five years later began to spin flax by niachinery in the mill he built. Of course village folk made their own blankets antl a good deal of their own wearing- apparel at this period, and those who know ^^here to look could still find at Carlton some of the old linen made in the village somewhat under a century ago. This would be sent either to Htokesley. Osmotherly* or Crathorne to be bleached. It may be a digression, but I came across two interesting advertisements the other day regarding the last mentioned bleaching mill which shows that even in these early days they knew something of the art of advertising (which is to get advertisements read). The prices set forth in the list given by the Crathorne bleacher will no doubt be very interesting to-day. The first appears in '■ The Newcastle Chronicle " for May 12th. 1770.
'J'his i.s to give notice that John Flounders, of Cratliorne. near Yaiiii. ill Yorkshire, coiitiiiues tlie bleaching of linen elotli to great perfection. His prices are as follows, viz : All cloth inider 30 cuts in the pound, at twopence halfpenny pei' vain I 30 cuts, and under 40, at threepence ; 4C* cuts and under ."id at threepence halfpenny, 50 cuts and luidei- HO at foinpence ; (iO cuts and under 70 at fourpence halfpenny ; 70 cuts and under 80 at fivepence ; 80 cuts and upwards at si.vpence per yard, and so in proportion for liroader and narrower.
All persons who please to favoiu' him with their custom are desired to sew their names on their clofii witli thread and not with silk. "
Cloth will be taken in by the following persons, viz : — Thomas Westgarth, cooper, in the Side, Newcastle ; Jos. Flounders, in North Shields ; Thomas Allison, weaker, in Chester-le-Street ; Jane Ogden, in the Low Street, Sunderland ; Ja. Crossley, in Easington ; Benj. March in Durham ; \\'ni.
* Osmotherlex' lilt'iicliiii"- mill is still in full swiiii;-.
BLEACHING AND HORSE STEALING, MIXED. 35
Bird, in Bishop Auckland ; Hannah Watson and John Apple- garth, in Staindrop ; A\'ni. Hall. Attorney at law. in Barnard Castle. ; John Cornt'orth, Woollen Draper hi Bedale ; Elz Flounders, in Northallerton ; John Smitli, grocer, in Thirsk ; Edw Wallis tt Son. in the Pavement. York ; Mary Howson, sviccessor to the late (ieorge Wynne, in Scarborough ; Jonathan Sanders, merchant, in Whitby ; Jackson & Sandei-s, merchants, in Guisborough, and by tlie above John Flounders, at his shops in Darlington, Stockton. Yarm and Stokesley.
N.B. — All cloth to be paid for on delivery without abatement."
On July 28th, 1778, the following advertisement regarding Flounders and his bleaching mill appeared in the same journal :
'■ Whereas in the night of the 11th inst.. or early next morning, one piece of plain linen cloth, and one piece of diaper were stolen out of the l)leaching grounds of Mr. John Flounders of Crathorne, in Yorkshire ; and at or about the same time, one brown horse, about fifteen hands high, and fifteen years old, with a white star on his forehead and a dimple on his left jaw bone a little l)elow the eye. was stolen out of a pasture adjoining the said bleaching grounds. Xow in order that the offender or offenders may meet with due punishment, the said John Floimders doth hereVjy promise to pay any persons or persons who will give proper information of the person or persons wlio actually stole the said plain cloth aiul diaper, so as he. she. or they may be a-f!tuallj' convicted of the theft, a reward of ten guineas ; and who- will give proper information of the person or persons who actually stole the said horse, so as he, she, or they may \>v actuall^- convicted, a fiu-ther reward of ten shillings luid sixpence.
"The rewards to l>e rps])(M-ii\'ely l)y jiim paid upon the re- spective con\-ictions. ,
''Ml'. l-"l<)unders begs leave to acquaint I he public that Ik- purposes attending at the George, in Coney Street, ^OiU. the twelfth day of August next, where any jjerson may be supplied with any quantity and kind of table linen, of his own manu- facturing, upon the lowest terms; particularly diaper table cloths, five quarters square, from 2s. to 4s. a piece ; six ((uarters square from 2s. fid. to 7s. (kl. apiece; ami all 'jflicr breadths
36 EARLY LIFE IN YORKSHIRE.
in the same proportions, and any person wlio chooses to favour him with an order may have any kind and quality of table linen manufactured to any size or pattern, with or without arms thereupon, in the best manner, upon the most moderate terms, and with the utmost expedition."
An old Yorkshire rhyme tells us something of these days —
My clothing then it mostly was homespun ; My stockings did my mother's taste display, Black and white mooI she mixed to make them
gray. But then the richest woman in the town Would go to church in linsey-woolsey gown — On Yorkshire Wolds we mostly barley eat, For there they grow but very little wheat ; We lived on barley bread and barley pies And oats and peas the want of wheat supplies.
In these days labourers in the fields obtained from I1d. to 1/6 a day, except at harvest time, when the hours were longer and 2/6 was given per diem. The women folk assisted not a little towards the upkeep of the cottage, and claimed equal wages when they went out shearing. I have heard old Cleveland women boast of their powers with the scythe and Florence Cleveland referring to the district of which I write, sang in her dialect poem : —
I' former yeears what deed there was
Wi' bairns gahin' oot to gleean ;
An' t" mudhers (mothers) teea went oot ta shear —
Bud noo them tahms is geean.
Fotty year ! — lawk what a change
There is i' fotty year !
How wimniin ewsed ta swagger then
Aboot what thev c'u'd shear.
GLEANING AND MUMPING. 37
The village children gleaned sufficient corn to materially augment the wintei' larder and Hurdis ill his (juaint old ])oein lu'ges the farmer to generosity : —
The gleaner follows and with studious eye And bended shoulders traverses the field To cull the scattered ear. the perquisite, By Heaven's decree assigned to them ^\ ho need. And neither sow nor reap. Ye who have sown, And reap so plenteously, and find the grange Too narrow to contain the harvest giv'n. Be not severe and grudge the needy poor So small a portion. Scatter many an ear. Nor let it grieve you to forget a sheaf, And overlook the loss.
Following uj)on gleaning the Carlton cottagers had another string to their bow. for on St. Thomas" day they sent their chikh'en " Mumping." This custom* has not long been dead and tended to further add to the store of winter's provisions as well as provide the wherewithal for the frummetty, which is eaten in almost every house at Carlton to this day on the Eve of Christmas. The practice of "Mumping." consisted of the presentation of a pillow "slip '" or bag to each farmer who never refused a handful or two of corn.
Every cotter kept his pig and even to-day the passing of the porker at Yuletide is an annual event in the village. I cannot I'cfi'aiu tioiu dwelling upon it foi- a inoiiiciit. toi' it is a phase of village life- — nay it is
• This custom, like many others, has its oriffin in PiiKuti days, when, before the winter festival the Druids vised to send their yoiinjj students from house to house with sprites of Holly and mistletoe. The Rev. \Voo<l Jlees, in his recently published history of l'.armhy .Moor, (York), says: " Years ajjo all the i)oor widows iieraniliu- lated the village solicitinK doles on St. Thomas' day. This custom was known as Thomassinpr, jfoodenin;;, or jfood-doinjf. Money, wheat or |.;iO(Mries were alike acceptable. liessie .Mollet went around alone in li'OO."
38 THE PAs.siNc; or the yuletide porker.
almost a festival. From the village imi to the school- yard the date of forthcoming pig passings is discussed in much the same spirit as the artisan of the neighbouring town looks forward to, and talks of the goose or turkey for which he has been paying instalments. The Christmas doggerel, sung all England over, includes, amongst its wishes of plenteousness, the pig : — -
Ah wish ya a merry Kessimass,
An" a happy new year.
A pocket full o' money, an' a cellar full o' beer.
An" a good fat pig that'll last ya all t" year.
The cotters pig is his bank, he lays out his spare cash on it he breeds from it early in the year, and, in due season, commences the mysteries and intricacies of "the feeding "" process. All day long he may be " sarving " and foddering" the stock at the farm on which he is employed, but they are mere hungry animals, and the feeding of them merely a part of his daily round of work. Not so the pollard and potato peel, tea-leaf and washing-up-water. mixing on his return home. Then he is " sarving "' his own, and that makes all the difference. " T" awd pig is quite a memV>er of the family circle, and t' young un will in time rise to that estate." The evolution of the twain is watched with admiring and critical interest, every attitude and every expression of " t' awd sow " is known to the cotter and his folk.
Oft have I noticed, hovering round the sty Where you, unknowing, snore in Morpheus' arms, A gross, red man, who, with an owner's eye, Approves your bulging charms.
THi; I'ASSINO OF THE YULETIDE PORKER. 'M)
They form the object ot the home economy, for nothing is wasted when the sty is occupied. Not a crust, not a pie-dish scraping, not a drop of sour milk or unused tea, but goes into the evil-smelKng pig-tub. wheie the outer leaves of cabbages and the skins of tuberous vegetables likewise also find a place to await thcii' chance of being hauled out with the bucket in which the ' pollitt " is to be mixed.
She never moves, for her voracious need Mysterious broths are brought her from afar : Strange messes coax you if you're off your feed (Not that you ever are) :
The great trough yawns beneath your voy snout ; You eat, you sleep, upon the self same spot ; People object to see you move about, They'd rather you did not.
Pigs are an endless topic of village convi^rsation and comi)arison ; there have been as many quarrels over pigs as politics, and it is a question which is the most important subject in the mind of the ruralist. Sunday ti oniing finds pre-church-going groups in the realms of sty-leaning — pig worship and the arrival of a fresh littei' is an event in the community, which only comes to the fulness of im|)f)rtance when the ))roud owner airives at the !''o.\ and Hounds in the evening of the morning, with the latest authentic information that ■■ t a\\(l un s gahin on weel, an" maks a good n iidfU'r."' ()!■ that " Shas gitten owei' moiniy, an's gone an" laid on two already, an" killed "em." The iiiinilx'i of tlic httci'. of neighbouring litters, and future litters, are then discussed, the health of "'the wiciUlin "" (the weak one), which accompanies evei-y I orky family, and so on. The health of the family
40 THE PASSING OF THE YULETIDE PORKER.
is drunk, and the owner is a more important person than heretofore, and feels an added responsibiHty. as Avell as considerable sleeplessness, following upon " sitting up "' at night to hail the arrival of his new- charges.
These are the opening chapters of the story of the village pig. The all-important epoch in the history is not the birth, the life, the increase in volume and outlay of money and admiration, but the culmination of all this — the obsequies. Far more preparation is made for this than for most human beings.
The much-sought for " killer."" at the end of the year, is run off his feet, and before he can give an answer as to the day he will be able to pay his annual fatal visits, he consults an exceedingly dirty little book^. and examines some curious heiroglyphics, which he translates for the benefit of the Fox and Hounds company in general. " Ahs at Stead's o" Mondaay, awd Willie's an' Jonathan's o" Tuesday, Ah want ti gan ti t" mart o' Wednesday. Thursday Ah promised Betty to gan an' kill three, an' then gan on ti MattheA\ "s. Neeabocldy what wants "em ti cure reet wad kill a pig on a Friday — * it'll "a'e ti be yah daay next week, George," " Yah day next week " often means some time a fortnight hence, but, by constant worrying, Isaac is induced to suck the end of a stump of pencil, and fix the date of the execution. Once having " beeaked " (booked) the auspicious occasion, there is no fear then of disappointment. Friends are apprised of the forthcoming season of plenty, and promised spare-rib, " chittlings," " black puddings," and so
* Mrs. Kyle tells me that not only is it considered bad luck to kill a pig on a Fi'iday, but also when the moon is on the wane. The moon must be rising " te mak a good job on't."
A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER, 41
tortli. with which to celebrate the occasion. They regulate their butcher's order in accordance with the generosity of the gift, which is usually reciprocal.
We confess to liking much the simple and affectionate tribute to an old Carlton school master, who died in 1817. The following is the inscription on the grave stone in the church yard : —
" Here lies the body of Thomas Nicholson. ^\ ho departed this life 22nd of January in the year of our Lord. 1817. aged O.l years. He lived schoolmaster of the village of Carlton upwards of 40 years, beloved bv his scholars and respected by his neighbours.
" Reader thou might go far to hnd an honester. a kinder, and a more conscientious man than he A\as."
Mav this be said of you and I reader when it is requiem aternam \\ itli us I
After this little break from evolution to nuiintain the chronological order of this chapter, let us now revert to the m.odes and manners of Carltonians in the second decade of the IDth century. Corn was threshed with the flail so late as ten years ago, but though there may ie an odd one still left in the village they are rarely used, though they are regularly em})loy('(l on the hillside farn s a mile or two aAvay.
Advancing about a quarter of a century (1823) 1 Hnd on the authority of Baines Yorkshire Directory and Gazetteer " that the following were the ])rincipal inhabitants of Great and Little Busby : —
Rev. George Marwood, Bushby Hall, farmer : •James Appleton ; .John Raidiffe ; John Carter; Robert Dobson ; John Hammond ; Henry Hudson ; Perciviil Hniiicis : 'I'hoinas Mead ; John Xightingale :
42 YORKSHIRE ROSE : A WONDROUS OX.
Benjamin and ( 'hiistopher Shepherd ; Thomas Weatherill. blacksmith ; Michael Weatherill.
In the same year the Rev. John Starkey is given as the incumbent of Carlton, but the Rev. Thomas Brown is the officiating curate. The name of Medd .Scarth is the only one followed by the description of" gentle- man," the other principal folk living in the parish being- Charles Gibson. John Leng, who were butchers, Joseph Atkinson, John Calvert. Geo. Hall, Wm. Hunter, Samuel Kitchen, Josh. Oswald, Geo. Potts, Thomas Thompson, Thomas Wrightson, were all farmers ; Matthew Wake was at the Blackwell Ox * and Benjamin Smith at the Fox and Hounds ; there were two school masters — Ralph Close and Geo. Scotson, three Shoemakers ; Wm. Fisher, John Robinson and John Smurfitt : Thomas Eeceles and Henry Waller were stone masons ; John Clark and Robert Johnson were the tailors ; Richard Douglas provided for the inner man with groceries and James Leng made the coffins. The total population was 260.
In 1837 we find Mr. Medd Scarth bringing Carlton into fame because of a wonderful shorthorn heifer he fed. Tweddell tells us in his ill-fated " History of Cleveland " that "" from the age of six months to that of three years and five months its only food was grass and hay. In June, 1837, this, wonderful animal was then four years and seven months old, and weighed one ton. seven hundred weight and five stones. In the year 1839 — when she was publicly exhibited in various parts of England (the charges for admission
""The Blackwell i>x wast brerl by Mr. Hollon of Blackwell, and was of a famous strain, Mr. W. Scarth I)i>con tells me it was killed at Darlinifton, 17th Deccniber, 1779, weighed 151 st. 10 lbs. Its propeiiitors liad been in Mr. HoUon's familv for i:5.') years.
THE YEOMEN. SCARTHS. 43
being a shilling each for ladies and gentlemen and six- pence each foi' labourers and children) — the proprietor published a challenge to '" any gentlmen, for t\\ o hundred guineas to show a heifer of the same weight and quality. She was six feet at the rump and five feet ten inches and a half at the shoulders, measiu'cd eleven feet three inches from nose to rump and was ten feet eleven inches in girth round the widest part of the body. Yorkshire Rose was slaughtered in Leeds for Christmas beef about the year 1840."
The Scarths have long been yeomen at Carlton and are a younger branch of an old Cleveland family ever famed as agriculturalists and sportsmen. Mr. William tScarth of C'arlton Grove, is the head of this branch of the family to-day and upholds all its traditions. He is a mcII -known hunting man as well as a breeder of hunters, many of which have been very successful in the show ring. He is frequently called upon to judge at the light horses at Northern Shows and his dry humour makes him popular every where. He is one of the churchwardens of his ])arish.
It is the trivialities Avhich make history so we must I)lace on record from '" The Cleveland Repertory,^' that on -July 4th, 1848. Mrs. Richard Puimsdale, of <'arlton, was delivered of triplets after having had twins the ))revious year."'
Another event connected with Carlton deserves mention.
Dec. 7th. 184.S -The Cleveland Hounds have had many marvellous luiis, but perhaps the most extra- ordinary was with th<' white fox of the 7th Dec, 1848. when they run him through at Uuist a dozen parishes
44 WHITE FOXES.
and killed him at Carlton-in-Cleveland, after a run of three hours and a half withoiit a check. Not one of the field saw the finish. The huntsman and pne or two of the others struggled on the line till they came up with the hounds — so distressed — that after killing their fox, they laid down around him. There was uncontestable proof that they had not changed : for there lay the white fox. and to this day his head may be seen in Kirkleatham Hall "'*
White foxes and white hares are somewhat of a rara avis. The subject was treated upon in " England's Oldest Hunt."" by the present author, but it might be added that last season (1911-12) a fox, described as Avhite, but probably an albino, \\ as hunted in the Quorn country.
In recent years a piu'e white fox was killed at Wentwortlu one in Essex, and two in Somerset. I)i addition to the white fox killed at Carlton the Cleveland limit have a song com- memorating a wonderful white fox. which on the day it was killed, took hounds and field through thirty parishes. Sir A. E. Pease, speaking of this fox said : — "' He was a game and gallant fellow ; one that braved the battle and the breeze for many a season."'
There are still a few hunting with the York and Ainsty Hounds who will rememljer the very light -coloiii'ed litter at Thorpe Green during the mastership of the ill-fated Sir Charles Slingsby. Colonel R. F. Meysey-Thompson. wlio himted with Sir Charles, and was one of those who played such a prominent part in the never-to-be-forgotten ferry disaster on the Ure, when the M.F.H. and some other good Yorkshire sportsmen niet their death, says regarding this breed :
" Some of the other cubs had more than a usual amount of white, but this one. a short distance off. looked perfectly snow-white. Sir Charles liked it b(>ing about, and would never hunt it if lie knew we were in pursuit of it : but on one occasion the hounds ran it hard down the whole length of the long wood at Kirby Hall,
* Baily's Magazine, March, 1S72.
A JNIl'KDEE. 45
and it was not known at first that it was the white fox they were after. On reaching the end of the covert in the park the fox was headed, and went straight back through the park, but though there was an excellent scent, not a hound seemed to recognise that it was a fox, or made an effort to catch it. The moment it had passed, and the effluvia reached their nostrils, they started off again in pursuit as eagerly as ever. They were speedily stopped, however, and tlie fox allowed to escape."
In 1863 there was interred in the churchyard the body of William Johnson, son of Robert and Mary Johnson, of Busby, the stone above whose grave records that he was murdered on the 19th day of October, 1863, aged 32 years. The following verses also appear : —
Regret not my untimely end,
Dear friends, tho" grieved you'd be.
My Saviour's love would me befriend
As death took hold on me,
Man's guilt and crime
Tho" screened a time,
Good Loi'd 'tis known to thee.
.Strangers we here record our grief
Our loss we do dejilore.
His friendly heait gave each relief
His kindness beams no more,
William was leturning from Stokesley market with a companion. According to tradition they were both " market fresh," oi " market merry," and a quarrel ensucul during which Johnson was struck down. The guilty party was imprisoned for manslaughter. On his release (the writer is told) he " c'u'dn't rest, neet nor daay ; his haii- went ez white ez a sheet an' lie ]tii\ed away an' deed."
4:6 RELIGIOUS EDUCATION DIFFICULTIES SOLVED.
The next two items of local history are from the parish magazine and from the pen of the Vicar : —
July, 1902 : Under the New Act Mrs. Reeve (the owner of the school) has let the school to Mr. Gjers, Busby Hall, and the Rev. J. L. Kyle. By the terms of the lease the Vicar of the Parish is ex-officio Chairman of the vSchool meeting. Seeing, however, cases of Passive Resisters, and that the Church should not in any way be said to claim any undue influence, the Vicar thought it best to waive this clau.se and let the meeting chose their own chairman. Every provision will be made for other Ministers should they wish to teach children who belong to any other denomination. The Church of England in the past has made great sacrifice to hold her schools and teach " the Faith of Our Fathers, and she only wants justice and no more to-day."' It is interesting to note that at the very outset of the Education question Mr. Kyle solved the difficul- ties so far as his own parish a\ as concerned, by a sug- gestion practicalh' anticipatory of that urged by the Archbishop of York in the Diocesan Gazette, February, 1912. Herein his Grace said : —
" I am asked by the Diocesan Education Association to call the attention of Managers of our Church Schools to the question of offering facilities to Non-con- formist parents in single school areas for the instruction of their children with their own special. religious-tenets."
To revert for a moment it may be noted for the benefit of future generations, that at one time the School was taught by the Vicar of the parish (Rev. T. Brown), and from this fact we infer that he had a legal right which was claimed by the next Vicar (Rev. G. Sanger). Owing, however, to the burning
RELIGIOUS EDUCATION DIFFICULTIES .SOLVED. 4/
of the Church and the contents of the safe, many of the old deeds A\ere destroyed. Friction arose between Mr. Sanger and his parishioners, and after the burning of the Church funds were raised for enlarging the schools on the condition that the vicar did not enter it — this being from personal reasons which only applied to himself. On the f)re.sent vicar taking charge of the parish, these conditions of exclusion still obtained. In time, however, a vacancy occurred on the Committee, and Mr. Kyle was appointed, l»ut it was still mercenarily held "it waddn't pay to hev religious eddication in V scheeal, coz there's neea grant fer it."" So Mr. Kyle had not yet the entre. When the late Mr. William Scarth in 1900, resigned the chairmanship of the ^;chool managers, and position of correspondent, none of the remainder would consent to act. the office being purely honorary and having some little out-of-pocket expenses attached to it. Writing in his parish Magazine Mr. Kyle repeated :
By the terms of the lease the vicar of the parish is ex-oflficio chairman of the school meeting. Seeing, liowcver. cases of Passive Resisters, and that the Church should not in any way be said to claim undue influence, the vicar thought it best to waive this clause and let the meeting choose their own chairman. Mr. Leng (Wesleyan) ])io])os'ed the vicar be appointed chairman, and this pioijosition was seconded by Mr. Middleton and carried unanimously. Every provision will he made for other Ministers should they wish to teach the children who belong to any other deno- mination. The Church of Enyland in the past has made great sacrifices to hold her schools and teach the "Faith of ovr Fnthrr.^.'' aud sir only wavlx justice and no wore to-day.
48 NAMING OF A M. F. h's HOUSE.
This, mark you, was in 1903, when no one else seemed to see a way out of the difficulty. As has been said Non-conformity did not want to be bothered to teach its children of its followers. The Vicar offered to give breakfast to any Non conformist minis- ters who cared to come but none were sufficiently interested to accept either " the open door " or the breakfast.
In 1907, Mr. Kyle built a residence, kennels, feed house and stables for Mr. H. W. Selby Lowndes, who had been elected master of the Bilsdale Hounds (now mastered by Mrs. Kyle's brother, Mr. F. Wilson Horsfall, J. P.. of Potto Grange). There was great discussion as to what the house should be called and Fox Lodge, Fox Catcher's Hall and so forth were in turn suggested. Eventually Handley Cross (the name, of course, of Mr. Jorrock's famous Hunt) was decided upon, and Mr. Lowndes was duly installed. The opening meet of the pack under the new master (who now presides over the East Kent) was at Carlton when a large number turned out to see the Bilsdale, which up to then had only been a name to them. Handley Cross is built in Elizabethan style, and is a distinct ornament to the approach of the village from Stokesley and from Sexhow Station. After three years it knew hounds no more, but during those three years Mr. Kyle did more for the Bilsdale Hunt than most people imagine. He is how on the com- mittee of the Hunt, and is more than delighted when hounds find on his moor at Hall Garth, whilst his two eldest daughters have followed the pack from very early clays. Miss Susan Kyle some seasons ago received her first brush from her uncle, who, bv the way, is famed the world over as
MR. Y. WILSON HORSFALL.
49
one of the greatest authorities on the Cleveland Bay and Yorkshire C^oach Horse, for both of which breeds he has done much. A few years ago he won almost all before him in the show ring, and the descendants of his Lady Salton are much prized in Africa and America Avhithcr he has sent scores of horses.
\,
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JC-^
Miinrkmd Cottage, Raisfliile
D
CHAPTER III.
THH MARWOODS AND GJERS OF BUSBY HALL
MANY OTHER WORKS OF CHARITIE, WHEREOF NO MENTION HERE.
TRUE TOKENS OF THEIR BOUNTIE IN THIS PARISH DOE APPEAR.
CHAPTER III.
The Marwood family are inseparably connected with the history of the village of Carlton. The family seat. Busby Hall, stands beautifully under the shelter of hill and wood, just on the confines of the village. Though actually in Stokesley parish the dependants of the Hall have ever lived at Carlton, and the Mar\\ood family have used the Church here and entered into the lives of the villagers as only the old time squirearchy — alas ! so fast becoming extinct — were sufficiently tactful and sympathetic to do. It was to such a family Washington Irving referred when he wrote : — *
" There are some traits about the Squire's family wliich appear to me to be national. It is one of those old aristocratical families, who, I believe, are peculiar to England, and scarcely understood in other countries ; that is to say, families of the ancient gentry, who, though destitute of titled rank, maintain a high ancestral pride ; who look down upon all nobility of recent creation, and would consider it a sacrifice of dignit\' to merge the venerable name of their house in a modern title. This feeling is very much fostered by the importance which they enjoy on their hereditar\' domains. The family manor is an old house standing in a retired and l)eautiful part of Yorkshii-e. Its inhabitants have always been n^garded through the surroimding counti'y a.s "the great ones of the earth," and the little \illage near the hall looks up to the squire with almost feudal lioiiiage."
The Marwoods have bcu'ii long settled at Busby. So early as I(3.")l, (jeorge Marwood was High Shciiff of Yorkshiic^ and was created a 1>aronet, the title becoming extinct after foiu" generations. Carlton. Stokesley, Ayton and other Cleveland j)arishes have for
"•See " Hvacebriclne liali."
34
THE WAPENTAKE OF LANGBARUGH.
generations benefited by the generosity of the ancient family, which, as one would imagine, is not innocent of romance and legend. The Marwoods were lords of the Wapentake of Langbarugh. and thereby claimed not a few privileges, including the power over life and death, the rights of wreckage on the coast* and so forth. Regarding the Wapentake, it is interesting to note that the division between Lang barugh East and West takes place at the Northern extremity of the parish of Ayton, where the highway from Stokesley to Guisborough passes the ridge formed by the great basaltic dyke. The Wapentake Court was for many years opened there in the open air, and then adjourned to an inn at xA^yton, where con- stables were sworn in. Graves gives a wood cut of the Seal of the Gate of Langbarugh, and says : —
Langbarugh Seal.
"There was anciently a prison belonging to the Lords of the Wapentake, for the confinement of male- factors, which, it is conjectured, was a part of the building represented in the seal ; as also a room in which the Wapentake Courts were held."
* The late Mr. Marwood, to uphold his rights, actually claimed a wreck some years ago near Staithes, and sold it, hut gave the proceeds to the owners.
THE RIGHTS OF THE MARW00D8. 55
In March. 1841. there was a curious law-suit* tried at York between the Rev. George Marwood and the Earl of Hare wood and others. It arose in this way. In 1207 King John had granted to Peter de Brus. tor a substantial consideration, the Wajientake of Langbarugh with its appurtenances. There Mas, however, no defini- tion of the latter very comprehensive term, but neither Avas there limitation and the successive owners of the franchise developed it not a little so that when in the reign of James I the crown lawyers combatted certain rights, they were unsuccessful. By hereditary right the grant eventually came to the Rev. George Marwood of Busby Hall, and he endeavoured to make it include to the grantee "' the Crowns undoubted property in so much of the soil of the Wapentake as was covered at high water by ordinary spring tides, and therefore that A\hen from any cause the tide ceased to flow over any portion of it, ^hich thereby became reclaimed land, such land belonged to him as Lord of the Wapentake and not to the owner of the adjoining ancient lands. Now when the Tees Navigation Company cut the new channel in 1810, they did not close the old one, and the tide continued to How through it until, in 1829, the operations of the Stockton aufl Darlington Railway Co., closed it at one ciul. and so tuiich of the- old channel as adjoined Lord Haicwoods l;uid gradually dried. By the time of the trial, it had Ix^come perfectly dry and Loid Harewoods tenant had occupied it. Mr. Marwood now set up a claim to the \'orkshire half of it, for the \\ apcntake onl\ extended to midstream ; all beyond that belonged to the County of Durham, and therefore to the l>ishop as Prince Palatine. He failed, however,
* S<-«- I'riiitf'l K.'i.ort <if till' Trial, and .Mr. H. L. Kirbv's " Aiiuieul .Micldlcsliroii'jh.
.")6 THE MARWOODS AND DE BRUCE.
to establish his claim, though the judge in his summing up said : "It appears to me that it is shown Mr Marwood has in him the rights, whatever thej^ were, that belonged to the person he is lineally descended from. No question has been made on the past of the defendants about that, and, therefore, I will not trouble you with the deed, .... \\hich only went to show steps in the pedigreee. and to identify the Rev. Mr. Marwood of the reign of Queen Victoria, with the Lord de Bruce of the reign of King John. We will take it that if Lord de Bruce had lived until this time he would have stood in Mr. Marwoods situation."
Another jDrivilege the Marwood's claimed was that of shooting from Livemoor to Whitby and the late Mr. Marwood was wont to go on to certain moors each year and kill a brace or two of birds to uphold the right be it real or imaginary.
This reminds me that Mr. J. A. Mello, who used to rent the Carlton shooting, told me of an interesting custon in connection with the disputed moor, which used to be observed every 12th August a quarter of a century ago. Mr. Joshua Reeve used to take out a game license for John Thomp- son (a tenant of his, who had a small farm on the Stokesley and Swainby road), and John used to wend his way to the disputed moor and there meet Grant (sent by the Marquess of Aylesbury^ at one of the boundary stones. Thompson, with tremendous importance used to then repeat the annual " warning off " formula in words to the following effect : — " As the representative of Joshua Reeve, Esq., of Carlton House and Southampton, I discharge 3'ou,
MARWOODTAN HISTORY.
O/
as representing the Marquess of Aylesbury, from this moor." Then Grant reiterated with no less grand- iloquence : "As the representative of My Lord Marquess of Aylesbury I discharge you, as representing Mr. Joshua Reeve, from this moor." The twain then lighted their pipes and walked over to another point where they met the late Richard Noble, the Earl of Feversham"s Bilsdale keeper. So soon as they had saluted one another, Richard warned them both off on behalf of the Earl of Feversham. Each year this proceeding was followed in detail. When Mr. Mello had the shooting he used to shoot on the disputed moor regularly as did the late Arnel Barnard when he was keeper for the gentleman who had the shooting taken from the late Mr. Reeve.
As lords of the liberty of Langbarugh the Marwoods had the appointing of a coroner for the division. The following* dates and appointments may be in- teresting en passant : —
Date.
1st July 171:5
22nd Sept. IT-')!*
9th July I 7 it I
Tth Oct. 181.")
i.->tli June 1831
12th June 18.18
Per.sons Appointing. Sir Hy. Marwood, Bart. Mrs. Jane Tvirner William Marwood, Esq. Kev. (jreo. Marwood Rev. Geo. Marwood George Marwood, Esq.
Persons apjiointcMl. James Rowth Thomas jMil))urii. Thomas Sniitli (ieo. Bighani John Page Sowerby James C. Sowerliv
Tu all old families love is frequently responsible for its very antithesis. So is it in Marw oodiaii history, as witness the result of the marriagc-f- of the daughter (jf the heiress of the Busby estates. " The wedding breakfast was ])robably spread at Lady Ann Hustler's hospitable table, when " IMiillipus William Casmier
* See Tweddeirs (unfinished) " History of Cleveland." \ See Mr. H. I,. Kirbv's " Ancient Middlesbroujrh."
58
A hOVE STORY.
van Straubenzie, married Lady Ann's cousin's daughter. Jane Turner, of Kirkleatham, 8th March, 174."). "It was a runaway \\edding and a verv sad one. Old
^ :^^.
:j«liiiw'p'|
■js^^^i
5=5^=5:^^^^
l\irl<le;itluun Mali : Tlie Home of the Turners.
Hiitton, the Birmingham antiquary, tells Jane Turner's story in his Trip to Coat ham. Her mother, the heiress of the Marwoods, and widow of Cholmley Turner of Kirkleatham, lived at Busby Hall, near Stokesley, and had an ample estate in her own right. She had but this one daughter living, whom, Hutton said," She tortured for her amusement." The young lady must have been attractive, for she had several very eligible offers of marriage, " but her mother would not suffer it." Her marriage to the Dutch officer, one of the foreigners brought over by our Hanoverian King to suppress Prince Charles, exasperated the old lady,
AND ITS SEQUEL. o9
and. in after days, she would only admit her two boys to her deceitful favour on the condition that they should never see their mother. Having thus separated them, she in the end left her estate to a distant relative under a most stringent settlement to prevent the possibility of it ever coming to her own descendants. Hutton adds, that "the poor lady who was the victim of such heartless malice had not an enemy except her own mother, and Ave need not wonder that having married a penniless soldier anxiety shortened her days." It was by her disinheritance that the Metcalfes became Marwoods of Busby.
The Straubenzies held high rank in the Netherlands, being, as the prefix '' van " indicates, of noble descent. 'There were three children of the marriage, the first died and Marwood Turner Straubenzie succeeded his father in 176."). He entered the service in the 3rd •Guards, served in the American War and was also in India. He was also Lieut. -Col. of the r)2nd Foot. Later he became a magistrate, and in 1791. 1). L. for the North Riding, of which he was subsequently appointed vice-lieutenant. He was Colonel of the Loyal Dales volunteers and afterwards of the 1st North Yorkshire local militia and died in 1823, being succeeded by his grand-nephew. Henry van Straubenzie.
In February 17(54, the following appeared in "The York Courant "" : —
^'oik. February 21st — " Last Tuesday, a lin- ludkc out at Bu.sby Hall, * near Stokesley-in-CIeveland, the seat of Mrs. Turner, whif-h entirely consumed the old building, with most of the furniture, but happily no lives were lost, and the iron chest,
•The illustration on next im^e shows Busby HaH in 1718. It is a .sketch (kindly •copied by Kev. J. C. Fowler) by .lobn Warburton, K.K.S., Somerset Herald, who sketched niany V'orkshire Hall.s in outline. See I,andsowne MSS. (^'orks.) Uritisli >Iii«uni.
60
THE BUSBY HALL GHOST.
with the writing and money, were saved. The new building was also saved by the wind driving the flames from it."
Tradition has it that Madame Turner ordered out her carriage to drive away from the fire and danger, but the horses refused to move forward and tried to back her into the flames, which was locally thought to be "a judgment "' upon lier for her crueltj' to her daughter.
^.
i^^m^ '^P^asfitch oCf^lt&^JjuM^ t/£tJeaT- oPj.''J(%aJUariJooc)'Jja->
It is not surprising that Madame Turner's spirit was unable to rest after her ill-spent life. According to local tradition, most firmly adhered to, Madame Turner's uneasy spirit wanders abroad, in her habit as she lived — a grande dame of eighty or a hundred years ago, garbed in dove-coloured silk. She was the chatelaine of Busby Hall, and there her portrait hangs to-day. It is in the style of Sir Godfrey Kneller. who was born in 1648. appointed court painter to Charles II in 1680, knighted by William II in 1602 made a baronet by George I, in 1715, and died in 1723, Mr. Wontner, the well-known artist, says : " I don't know that the picture is by him, but it must have been
A RECENT APPAEITION. 61
painted during the time he was famous, as the costume and style of painting are both so like his work."
Since lier death the unrestful spirit of Madame has made periodical pilgrimages to the Hall and to the old coach road regularly employed in her day, but now no longer used.
A few years ago Mr. Barratt, then residing at Busby Hall, was aroused at dead of night by sounds which suggested burglars, and going downstairs he discovered the immaterial Madame drinking hypothetical tea in the kitchen — a most unlikely thing for her to do, unless that apartment was formerly devoted to uses higher in the social scale. Mr. Barratt did not stay to hold parley with the lady, and so an interesting opportunity of psychical research was lost. An old lady now living at Carlton, who was a servant at the Hall fifty years ago, recalled that once one of the girls de- clared she had seen Madame Turner in a long dark corridor, but, said the old lady, '' I have been about the Hall at all times of night and never seen anything" Some four or five years ago Carlton was all agog with reports to the effect that '' Awd Madame Turner " had been seen again and for some nights ghost hunting parties lay in wait about the old coach road. A local farmer was driving from Stokesley to Carlton with the son and daughter of the landlord of one of the two village inns, when, as they were passing the end of Busby-lane, they saw a white form approaching.
■ It wer gittin' dark,"' he said, "an' Ah could see ther wer summat white walking steadily, an" slowly up tawd cooad an' Ah remembered at yance aboot t' sperritt "at haunts t' hall, bud it nivver offered ta nicll (harm) o' me."
62
THE MARWOODS AND GREAT AYTON
The Mai'woods have for long owned land in the parish of Great Ayton and also the tithes, which, thongh formerly belonging to the parish, got into the hands of the Abbey at Whitby in the 14th century and into lay hands at the Abbey's dissolution in the reign of Henry VIII. The holding of the tithes carried with it the nomination of a perpetual curacy for Ayton. The late Mr. George Marwoocl, who died in 1882, feeling that he ought to do something for the place as he took the titles from it every year, built the Marwood Schools, and until his death paid all that was needed to keep them going. At his death his successors have let the Vicar and managers have the schools at a nominal rent in order to carry them on as Church Schools.
Since Easby has been placed in Ayton parish, the patronage of the living has been vested in Mr. Marwood, and the Archbishop of York alternately. It was in 1851 that the late Mr. George Marwood built the schools bearing his name, and in the same year he was responsible for the renovation of the old Church. In 1856, he gave a ncAv organ (now doing duty in Carlton C^hurch), which, according to a note on musical
Avton Old Chureli as restored li\ the JIarwoods
VfTJAOK :\ri'STC IN OLDEN DAYS. 63
evolution appearing in the Ayton Parish Magazine some years ago, ^\■as much needed. Witness the following —
John Longstaff. clerk used to give out each verse of h^niiis. The band and clioir were placed in the west gallery of the old church, and wlien the singing began the congregation rose and turned to tlie west.
One day the clerk gave out a liymn and starteii it. I)ut alas ! he pitched it too high, and so liad to make a fresli start. Again it was too high, so he gave out to the congregation " Wa can't mannish it," and the service proceeded. I think this incident must have happened before the introduction of the musical instruments. I relate the story, however, as it was told to me by old Mrs. Longstafl".
John Rigg, of Manchester, gave the first organ erected in Great Ayton Church in the year 1840. This instrument was designed to play certain tunes, which were turned out by means of a handle. The Vicar, Rev. J. Ibbetson, considered the tunes too lively, so he had a new set put in. The present organ was given by the late Mr. Marwood, of Busby, in 1856.
The east windo\\ in the new church at Aj^ton is in memory of the Marwood family, who have ever been such benefactors to the ecclesiastical and educational life of the Parish. So early as February 3rd, ir)40. " William Marwood, of the parish of Aiton-in-C'lyve- land," made his will, "giving his soul to Uod Almighty and the Saints, and his body to be buried in the Church of the Hallows of Alton before the image of Our Lady on the North side of the (Jhurch."' In Stokesley Church too, one finds a tablet to the memory of Sir licury Marwood, Bart, who died Nov. 1st, 172."), and to his daughter, \\ho died I7G4.*
^ " Near this jihuf liiili the liody of Sir Henry Marwood, of Little IJushy, who <le))arte<l this life, in Ni;veniher, 17'1!^, ayeil — ; and, also, thf body of Mis. .lane Turner, relict of < 'holinlc.N Tinner, of KirUliathiini, Ks(|nirc, ^nMnd-chinvrhlt r and heiress of the said Sii- lk-nr,\ Marwood, and died llu- lOlli nl April, 17<i4. uired Seventy."
64
MORE ABOUT THE MARWOODS.
Mr. W. H. Burnett, an old Clevelander, and native of Stokesley, writes to me : " Mr. G. Marwood I knew well. He used to come to our shop for his stationery. He had a kind face, the face of an English gentleman, one of the olden time, and possessed
Stokesley Chun-li (wliere the Marwood Moiiunieiit.s are to he seen).
a stately presence. He married into the Peel family, a lovely woman much his junior. I had to wait upon her at times in her carriage when she came to shop at Stokesley ; she never got out. Her beauty used to awe me. Her golden flaxen hair was all one mass of short curls, and she was very fair, with beau- tiful regular features — a picture in fact. In Mr. Marwood's time there was a glass of beer and cheese and bread for all callers at the hall : I have had it myself."
No less beloved seems to have been his son, the late Mr. Geo. Marwood, who succeeded him. and who died on May 22nd, 1898. The Vicar of Carlton wrote regarding him in his parish magazine : —
GENEALOGY. 65
You have remembered him from boyhood, and deservedly loved him. You always saw the perfect gentleman uppermost ill all his transactions. The generosity of the father and the beauty of the mother's Godly life, could not help making itself felt in tlie kindly and generous son. We all wished that which was mortal of Mr. George Marwood, had been laid to rest in the beautiful chiu-chyard near to the new church to which he most generously gave and of the funds of which he was one of the trustees.
The chapter on the ecclesiastical history of Carlton will provide much evidence of the generosity and interest of the Marwood family in, and towards, the parish.
it may be interesting here to show the genealogical tree of the ancient Cleveland house from the time it merged into the Metcalfes.*
Thomas Metcalfe M.A. of Narbrough, co. Leicester, baptised at Bossall. March, 1706, rector of Kirby-over-Blows, co. York, died lilth February, 1774 and buried at Stokesley. He married 1741 Anne daughter of William Smelt, Esq., of Kirby Fleetham and Leases, co. York. She died 10th February, 1804, aged 87 having issue.
William, afterwards of Little Busby Hall, which estate of Little Busby he took under the will of his cousin Jane Turner, widow, and in compliance therewith took the surname and arms (Gules a chevron ermine between three goats' heads, erased argent <'r.'st : A Goat's head erased argent) of Marwood by Act of Parliament, 5 George Til ; died without issue 3rd February 1809. He married Mary, daughter of Christopher Goulton, Esq., of Beverley, who died 8th April, 1807, aged 63, buried in the oast end of York Minster.
II George.
I II Cornelius.
IV Francis, in holy orders, married Harriet, daughter of John Clough, York, Esq., of Rudston. co. York, and had seven sons iiiid throe daughters.
\'. VI. Vli., Thomas, John, Leonard, died young.
* See Iiitfleilew's " History of Northallerton."
E
06 GENEALOGY.
1. Henrietta, died young.
2. Dorothy, died unmarried.
3. Elizabeth, died young.
George Metcalfe, M.A., Canon residentiary of Chichester, succeeded liis brother William in the estates of Little Busby, and took the surname and arms of Marwood ; died 1st Dec, 1827, buried in Stokesley Church. He married in 1780, 1st May. daughter of Francis Pearson, of Beverley, Esq.. and l)y her had issue :
I. George.
II. William, died young.
Til. Thomas, in holy orders, died unmarried in 1832 at English Bicknor, co. Gloucester.
IV. V. Henry, Charles, died young.
VI. Frederick. l)arrister-at-la\v. di(»d luimarried, in 1824 at Amport.
1. 2. 3. Mary Anne, Louisa, Henrietta, died joinig.
4. Margaret, married the Rev. Charles Hutchinson of Firle, CO. Sussex and had issue :
1. Charles Henry. He married 2ndly Miss Lucy Dodgson, and by her ha I issue :
I. Mary Ann. married to W. ^^'iIcox, Esq.
Gsorge Marwooil, M.A.. Vicar of Amport, co. Southampton, born 29th Jun?. 1781, died January 9th, 1842, buried in Stokesley Church. He married 1st August, 1804, Mary, daughter of John Quantock, Esq., of Chichester, who died 23rd May, 1838, leaving issue.
I. George.
1. Mary.
2. Emily, died young.
3. Margaret, married Capt. Colson Festing, R.X.
4. Fanny, died young.
5. Anne Frederica, married the Rev. Bowick Scougall.
George Marwood, Esq., J. P., of Busby Hall, born 31st December, 1808, married Francis Anne, daughter of the Rev. Frederick Peel, M.A., Canon of Lincoln, and cousin to the Rt. Hon. Sir Robert Peel, Bart, M.P. by whom he had issue :
George Frederick Marwood, born April 8th. 1858, died May 23rd, 1898, succeeded by his brother William Francis Marwood (born February 1st, 1861), the present owner of Busby Hall.
MR. AND MRS. GJERS.
67
The present occupants of Bu.sby Hall arc Mr. & Mrs. L. F. Gjers, who have done much to improve it and make it one of the most up-to-date country residences in Cleveland, containing some of the most vahiable modern art treasin-es in the Vale, including pictures by Herbert Draper. Blair Leighton, B. W. Leader, Hon, John Collier. W. Wontner. Veand King, Somerscales, Herbert Schniaiz. etc."" The Busby Hall* of to-day is a Georgian House, facing on the West an open park without any inter\ening garden, as do so many Georgian houses all over Englau<l. This suggests that hunting was the one important occupation of the inmates at that epoch. The hall. I think, must have been put into its present state during the latter half
r.u-l.v Mall.
* The following inforniation re^'ardiii-f Hushy Hall is liimlly snpplied by >fr.
rne tomowim^ inrorniation i Wontner, the well-known artist.
68 BUSBY HALL DESCRIBED.
of the 18th century, but there are traces of its being an older house, these being chiefly visible in the entrance hall and the bedrooms over it and on the East side, where there are remains of a porch and wall with buttress which looks older than the rest of the house, and might be very late 17th century work. The cellar beneath the house also seems to be very old. There is a room over the entrance hall which is said to be haunted by the spirit of Madame Turner, and this is the least altered of all the original rooms. The garden on the East side of the house has many fine trees in it. especially a magnificient Spanish chestnut, said to be the largest in England. It covers a quarter of an acre, and measures 20 feet round the trunk, and is said to be about 260 years old. There is also a well grown Wellingtonia about 60 years old and several fine Araucarias. There is a fine old stone and brick wall round the kitchen garden, which looks almost as old as the house." ■ The beneficence of Mr. and Mrs. Gjers has been unbounded and one of the greatest objects in their lives seems to be to give pleasure to others and to promote the weal of the village. Perhaps one of the most evident monuments to their interest in Carlton and in their •employees is the most picturesque group of houses and the laundry, standing off the highway from Carlton to Faceby and near the entrance gates to the Hall. This approach to the village has been immensely improved by this tiny garden city.
The name of Gjers is written large in the history of the development of Tees-side* as well as in the later day development of Carlton. It is interesting to note that Mr. Gjers' father was born in Gothenburg of an old and highly respected family. Here he began life in the
* See "Pioneers of the Cleveland Iron Trade."
THE GJERS FAMILY. 69
engineering world and was afforded ample opportnnity for combining the practice of his art with its scientific principles. In IS.il, on the occasion of the first inter- national exhibition held in England, he came over and decided there Avas more scope for his profession in this country than in SAveden, so remained, spending three years as engineering draughtsman in various parts of Yorkshire and Lancashire. In 1854 he came to Middles- brough to take up an imjDortant position at the Ormesby Works, where he assisted Mr. Edwin Jones to build the original Ormesby blast furnaces. His services were also requisitioned by Mr. Henry Cochrane, who was then building the large pipe foundry at Ormesby, at the time of its completion the largest pi]i(' foundry in Great Britain. Mr. Gjers was then only twenty four years old. but had made his name and fame, and on the retirement of Mr. Edwin Jones he became manager of the Ormesby Works, a responsible ])osition he filled till 1861. It was under his supervision that the first of 8iemen's & Cowpers newly patented heating stoves were introduced into Cleveland. In " Pioneers of the Cleveland Iron Trade " it is recorded ; — "Mr. (Jjers flid not go into this matter of his own accord. U is to Mr. Charles Cochrane that the application of these stoves — the Ormesliy furnaces are entirely due. They • were very crude and complicated in design and action, and Mr. (Ijcrs was so impressed with their imperfections (and their better performance in later years have not altogether removed his first impression) that he ultimatelty resigned the management. This he did without any unpleasantness on either side. It was during his con- nection with the Ormesb}' Works that Mr. (ijers patented his invention for super heating the blast
70 THE CiJERS FAMILY.
and for heated air engines. In the beginning of 1862, Mr. Gjers was appointed manager for Messrs. Hopkins & Compan}", at the Tees-side Ironworks, and in 1864 designed and carried out the erection of a new blast furnace plant, adjacent to the works. About that time more decided advances began to be made in the way of enlarging the size of the blast furnaces of Cleveland. There was, however, no ex- perience to guide the now master in determining the most advantageous limit of height and capacity. With characteristic caution, Mr. Gjers determined to erect the furnaces, which have since been named the Linthorpe Iron Works. These works, however, mark an era when greatly improved furnaces began to be built in Cleveland. In 1866, Messrs. Hopkins, Gilkes & Company decided to erect a new blast furnace plant, and Mr. Gjers was entrusted with the preparation of the plans. In the following year two more furnaces of a still larger size were added to the Linthorpe Works and put into blast towards the end of 1S70. The occasion was marked by a banquet at which most of the Cleveland ironmasters were present. Mr. Thomas Vaughan. in proposing the health of the engineer, said that '" they ought to be proud of a man who possessed such rare engineering al)ility." No one did more to solve the problem of making Cleveland Steel than the late Mr. Gjers, who in 1868 took out a patent for a new process, discovered after many experiments, for the manufacture of steel rails from the iron of the district. The late Mr. Gjers under- took the designing and carrying out of several im- portant works in Cleveland and much further afield, and was the first Cleveland engineer to obtain a footing in the Lincolnshire iron district On January loth,
A COMING OF AGE.
71
1S70. he began the erection of the Ayresoine Ironworks, though his professional connection with Messrs. Hopkins, Gilkes & Co. and Messrs. Lloyd & Co. did not cease till the following year. He then became senior partner of the firm of Gjers, Mills & Co., a position lu'ld to-day by his son Mr. L. F. Gjers.
It was at the coming of age celebrations of Mr. Gjers' eldest son. in July, 1910. that Carlton distinguished itself l)y offei'ing up an ox in honour of tlie occasion.
Writing to the author i-egarding the great event the Vicar said : —
We had a right royal time here during the festivities in honour of Mr. John Gjers" coming of age. They have })een right down kind to me. and saw me through
-* - 'iPt
.•^. yft.-^*-^-.-i^, ■■'■■■ ■
<i\ Uiijistiny in liDMnur of Mi. .lolm (;j(i>' (•(iniiii}.' of ii;;e.
72 A COMING OF AGE.
the paying for the church bells. I resolved as a small return to roast an ox, and we have done it to a turn — simply delicious. I felt very nervous over it, as on making enquiries I found they failed at one or two Xorthern towns, but the Thornaby-on-Tees bullock was a success, and luckily I got hold of the man who did it — an old soldier*. We feasted nearly 1,000. It would have done your heart good to see Franky Grainger and all his fellow horse-coping fraternity, and I must say it was very delightful to me to see all these and my other friends of this 8tokesley tribe present — and didn't they " tuck in." What I do admire about Mr. Gjers is he has been so good to the Church, and his son, whose coming of age we have been celebrating, is one of the best of fellows."
** Mr. Kyle was staying at Filey during' the Coronation festi^'ities and his previous experience in bullock roasting made him invaluable to the Filonians He was on this occasion, what we call in Yorkshire '' van o' t' main men '" and after the •' ceremony " received an eloquent letter of tlianks from tlie <!'oronation Committee at Filey. An article appeared in the yiir{-s>iire Font describing the Filey bullock roasting and during the course of it the writer said that the advice from Carlton-in-Cleveland's Vicar was to "keep the cook on milk and soda water, at anv rate till his work was over."
CHAPTER IV
THE MANOR HOUSE, OR OLD
HALL
Contents of Chapter :
legends, traditions and (jhosts.
previous inhabitants.
carving and objects of interest.
CHAPTER IV.
'■ Tlie t^\(l principal houses in an English Village are the Manor House and the Rectory, wherein, according to the theories of the modern political socaHst and agitator '• the two arch- tyrants " of tlie labourers dwell, the squire and the parson. There is much of interest in the growth and evolution of the country house, which resulted in tlie construction of these old, pleasant, half-timbered granges anil manor houses which form such beautiful featin-es of our Englisli Villages. — Rev. P. H. Ditchfield."
One can hardly picture Carlton \\ithout its Manor House. Take away tlu- old building and the village
Till- Miin.ir IIoum, or old Hall.
76
A QUESTION OF TITLE.
Avould still be intensely picturesque, and exceedingly beautiful. Its situation, its artistic irregularity of building, its red roofed houses, its venerable trees, its background of hills and so forth, all make for this^ but the picture would be incomplete without the old house now known as the Manor (locally t' Manner), where live the vicar and his family. Although what is now " t' hoos where t' parson lives " is called nothing else but '' t' Manner," authorities tell us that it is reality the Old Hall. This seems all the more likely since Carlton was not originally a Manor.* One well- knoA^ai Yorkshire antiquary never addresses his letters to the Vicar of Carlton at the Manor House, but alwavs at the Old Hall.
The Carlton Cedar Tree and Cedar Cottag'es.
"".MiinDr is from " nianerivim ' (l-ow L.), and the loot is " nianere," to remain or reside, si^iifyinj^ that the owner of lands resided thereon.
THE VANISHED MANSION. 77
One of the oldest inhabitants of Carlton, now gathered to his fathers, used to tell a wonderful story, which was not his belief alone, to the effect that the •charming old house, knowTi to-day as The Manor, at one time stood on the opposite side of the road in an enclosure, still marked on two sides by a wall. There is ample evidence that a house of some consider- able dimensions has stood on this site for the terrace is still extant, the orchard, the well, and the famous •cedar tree,* which stood in the grounds. Of the house itself not a vestige remains. . If one looks around the village for signs of the stones thereof being used to build cottages or pig styes — as, to the lasting shame of Guisborough, \\as the case with the Abbey ruins there — none are forthcoming, so one has to fly to tradition for an explanation as to the demolition and disap- pearance of the old mansion which stood here.
Legend is not very original, and only supplies a stor}' which has done dut}^ for Kildale Church, for Danby,-]- for Gillamoor and a score of other places which could 1 e mentioned. In all the cases cited, as in that of Carlton Manor House, evil or trouble- some spirits became so insistent in their appearances that either the site of the house was changed to be lid of them or because the supernatural malcontents continually moved the stones during the course of Ijuilding operation to some site the}^ considered more suitable. The Carlton spirits did not move stones, but it is urged they made matters so warm that the occu- pants of the old liouse were compelled to leave and
•There is a fliie Cedar Tree at Stainton-in-Cleveland, on an eminence near the Churchyarrl. It measures l:ift 4in. in circumferenc*. It was ori^rituilly in the (froundM of Thoriilon Mull, at one time tlie rcsidenee of the Penn.vmans. They (so sayH lej^end) dismantleil the Manor and re-lmilt it at Ornieshy, uiicrc tlie ancient Yorkshire family are now located. Not only is Ihi- Ic^rend somewhat akin to that of the vanished Carlton Mansion hut the Thornton Hall kitchen },'-ardcn and (jToumls can likewise be traced.
tSee " Korty years in a Moorlaml I'arish."
78
LEGEND AND FACT.
eventually decided to change the site to that on which the Manor House now stands. So runs the story they had it dismantled in sections and carried stone by stone from one side of the road to the other. Only a keep-like tower or entrance gate was left standing and into this the homeless spirits fled. Graves gives
us a picture* of the tower in his history (1806), as it was when he began his work years before. When it was at last dismantled for the purpose of building the present Cedar Cottages the then Carlton sexton's father saw the spectres gliding hither and thither, mourning over the ruins and searching for an abode of such antiquity as to be worthy of their abiding presence.
It is stated by much greater authorities than the author of this book, that the houses of country gentlefolk were occasionally removed from one site
* The picture of the tower here reproduced is taken from Graves. Ihere is a legend that the Monks of St. Marj's Abbey, York, were sent here after cases of serious ilhiess to recuperate, and lived in the old tower which was standing SO years ag-o.
THE LAYING OF SPIRITS. 79
to another, because of ap))aritiou.s. but it seem.s to me that if the inmates had a fear so strong of the supernatural, and a faith so great that to remove their home would rid them of the spirits, they would have found much greater comfort and had much more faith in the authorised service for the laying of evil spirits. We ilo know the Stokesley priest was more than once called upon to take asperges and censer to haunted houses and in the name of the Blessed Trinity, with a sprinkling of holy water as he named each of the Sacred Trio he said " In the name of God. the Father, God the Son, and God the Holy Ghost", I command you to return from whence you came and no more trouble this house nor those who dwell herein." There Avas, of course, a properly prescribed prayer, in the Ecclesia Anglicana which will be found in the pre- reformation prayer book. An old man, who would have been much more than a centenarian had he been alive to-day, told me he A\as present on one of these spirit laying occasions when the ghost was "conjured into " a well*. The room in which the apparition was most frequently seen was sprinkled with holy watert and all the approaches thereto censed l)y the priest attended by an acolyte, holding the holy water stoup and acting as boat-boy.
If the Old Hall or Manor House, was removed from the site opposite, and if the j)urpose was to ])e rid of the unwelcome ghostly visitors, the whole scheme was very unsuccessful for the Manor House is not without its own spectre to-day. Suc-li a house would be incomplete without a spectral groaner, moonlight walker-, chair I'attlei-, or digiiillcdiy iliiiiib sjiirit of some sort or other.
* Al till' \ ilhitrt-' «>f Carllioriie iitar Hedale.
t .loliariiiL"' Hi'litliuK nays that holv walcr Ih " ver.v unpopular uilli l\iu iliuioiis," \vliil)4l it usoil to 1)0 a coininoii uiniilie " I love liiin uk the devil lovfs liolv wattT."
80
THE MANOR HOUSE SPECTRE.
That need is satisfied by the occasional appearance of the supernatural Miss Prissick, whose material form was kno^v^l there in early Victorian days. Her family then lived at the Manor House, and Miss Prissick. a
The original Manor House (bearing date 1717) now standing as two cottages.
young and lovely girl, was sent to a convent in France to complete her education.
There, the story goes, she fell in love with an officer who was not her social equal. He bribed the girl's guardians to give her an opiate, and, under the influence of the drug, she was removed from the convent in a coffin as one dead. Her relatives at Carlton were informed of her death, and in due time they received the coffin, which was placed in the family vault, and
THE MYSTERY OF A COFFIN. 81
the girl was mournetl by her family. The tradition continues that the twain were married and the coffin sent to England was, of course, merely to deceive the girl's kinsfolk.
In 1S79, when the transepts of Carlton Church were being re-built, the family vault of the Prissicks was opened, and in the presence of several villagers, the coffin of Miss Prissick was found to contain not a body, but merely a quantity of shavings and sufficient lead to make it the weight of a human body.
The actual fate of the young lady is shrouded in mystery, but it is supposed that she was murdered, and that her body lying in a foreign land, her spirit revisits the scenes of her happy and innocent child- hood.
So much for the story. As for the apparition, it has at least appeared, unless one Carltonian was deceived. The author was told that the astral body of Miss Prissick had been seen within this last decade, in the form of a young and beautifi;l maiden, walking from the Manor House down the Church path to the church, swinging her sun-bonnet in her hand.
At dusk one evening, my informant was looking over the churchyard wall from her own garden, when she saw a white form walking down the path. The figure was swinging one hand. She glanced away for a moment, and when she looked again the ' gooerst" had vanished, though she is quite sure no one passed out through the gate.
Till- |)ari,sh register tells us little about the Prissicks (who also ownefl the Faceby estates), but I have ^■<t|iic<| such infdiiuation as is there recorded. As
82
THE PRISSICK8.
already stated they had a vault under the old Church, and when the present edifice was being built no re- presentatives of the Prissicks could he discovered
A Vestibule at the Manor Ilouj-e. known as " The Monk's Lavatory.'
either to give to the church or to give their consent to certain proposed encroachments upon the vault. The following extracts from the register show the family to have been of some consequence, though I can find nothing else regarding them : —
THE PRISSICKS. 83
" Captain Christopher Prissick died at London. Oct, ye 12th, 1718, was interred in ye chapel of Carlton. Nov. 5th. 1718." It will be noted this was nearly a month afterwards, the journey from London in those days being long and tedious, and only to be undertaken by families of consequence and means.
In the following year on Dec. 24th, "Mr. Christopher Prissick, son of the late Captain Prissick was interred in the chapel of Carlton.""
In 1723 Susanna Prissick was buried on January 13th and in December, 172.") a daughter of Christo]ilier Prissick, Junr. was baptised, and in 1731, "^Villiam,, ye son of Mr. Codrington John Prissick was borne, between 3 and 4 o"clock in ye morning of ye 17th day of May, 1731," and in the same year, "John,, the son of Christopher and Jane Prissick, Mas baptised August ye 22nd. Mr. John Prissick died the following year, and six days later, the very next entry records that " Mr. William Gyles of London and Mrs. Anne Prissick of Carlton were married at Charlton by virtue of a license by Mr. Henry Bradley, Esq., of Yarni."
Christopher was binied April 20th, 1732, and Elizabeth his wife, was buried May 10th of the same year, 1733 : Wm. the son of Codrington -J. Prissick, Esq., was hurled March ye 28th, 1733. Sarah the daughter of John Prissick, Ks({., was born about eleven o'clock at night on y(^ lifth day of 'July and baptised August 2nd, 1733 and was buri(Ml August 22nd, 1733. 173.") Mary Prissick buried January 28th. March 27th same year Elizabeth P>ate, the daught(^r of Codrington .lohn I^^lizabeth Prissick, was baptised. 1730, Jienjaniin tlic son of Cln'istopher Pi'issick was baptised March 7tli. 17('>."') Mr. h'dnunid l*rissick was
84
THE MANOR OFFERED FOR SALE.
buried. 1772, May 28th Jane Prissick, widow, was buried. 1781 Ann Prissick, widow, was buried. This seems to be the end of the Prissicks who dis- appeared from register, record, legend and ken.
The following advertisement of the sale of the Manor of Carlton possibly resulted in the Reeve family coming into possession about a century ago. I discovered it amongst some old papers and unfortunately cannot iind the date of its appearance : —
FREEHOLD AND TITHE FREE.
The Manor of Carlton-in-Cleveland, a capital stone mansion, and a good garden adjoining, partly walled, with fit and con- venient offices, situate in the village of Carlton aforesaid, and forming a desirable residence for a genteel family.
Another Mansion House, nearly opposite to the above, but not occupied as such, adjoining to which is a large garden, well
Carlton House (the "Mansion nearly opposite").
POSSIBILITIES OF RENEWED ALUM WORKING. 85
walled round, and an excellent orchard, twenty-foiu- messuages and cottages, with the garths, gardens, and appm-tenances — all situated in or near to the village ; and upwards of 300 acres of rich arable meadow and pvastiu'e land, parts of which are let to tenants at will, and the residue in the occupation of the owner — and the whole lands of the yearly value of £400 and up- wards. Also the nomination to the perpetual curacy of Carlton. There is an excellent common containing upwards of 900 acres adjoining to this estate, and belonging to the owner thereof, and the other freeholds of Carlton ; in a part of whicli a \ei'y large alum manufactory was some time ago carried on by the owners of the estate to great advantage. The rock is of a very superior quality, a considerable part thereof is now bared, and the works may be easily resumed.
Carlton is a pleasant village, situated in an excellent neigh- bourhood, and in the most fertile part of Cleveland, being 2 miles from Stokesley. 10 from Yarm, 14 from Stockton, and 13 from Northallerton and the roads exceedingly good without turnpikes. The estate is freehold and tithe free, and free from all out pay- ments except a small annual sum to the curate.
Mr. Charles Reeve, a Hampshire country gentleman, purchased the Carlton estate from the Prissiek family about 1823, and for some time lived at Carlton. From him the property passed to his son Mr. Joshua Reeve, whose widow is now the lady of the Manor and patroness of the living. Although non-resident in the village, Mrs. Reeve has a keen interest in its welfare, and reserves at Carlton House rooms for her occasional visits. Mrs. Reeve has given every assistance possible to the happy development of the ecclesiastical life of the village and was one of the first to handsomely subscribe to the new church. Kind and considerate to her tenants they showed their affection for her some years ago by making her a presentatif)n of a portfolio containing the \ iews of the village and photos
86
THE REEVE FAMILY
of her tenants. It is interesting to recall in connection with the family that it was Mr. Charles Reeve who organised the band at Carlton \\hich in its day had
Mrs. Itt-exe's tenants assenil)led at the back of tlie Manor House.
more than local fame. Some of the instruments are still extant, and at the village pageant arranged by Mr. andMrs.Gjers in the summer of 1911, the drum, bearing the arms of William IV, was employed in connection with the tableaux representing Queen Victoria in which Mrs. Matthew Wake, Senr., represented royalty. In the early days of the band, instrumental music was used in church and some of the band occupied the west gallery^.
THE MANOR HOUSE DESCRIBED.
87
The Manor House is built in Queen Ajin style and has not a few noticeable features. Glancing at the exterior one sees a massive centre \Aith a wing on each side peculiarly joined by curved passages, lower in height than the main body and being surmounted by flat roofs. These passages lead to what would be intended for a butler's house on the one side and the kitchen on the other. The stone moulding under the eaves
Su I'etcTH (iatc, Ifadiiitf from the Manor House Couil ^■a^l to I lie Canleiis.
88
THE MANOR HOUSE DESCRIBET),
is in wonderful preservation, and passing to the rear of the house (though one is really as much the front as the other) the court yard has leading from it into the garden an ancient gateway (known locally as St. Peter's Gate) the top of which is carved. Where now stand the present entrance doors from the road to the court yard was a gateway, somewhat similar to that just referred to, which was removed about twelve years ago. There is leading from the now stackyard an entrance opening into the church yard almost directly opposite the present porch. This may have been the principal entrance to the Church at one period.
The beautiful carved Staircase at the Manor House.
CARVING IN THE MANOR HOUSE.
89
No less interesting is the interior of the house. For almost a century the IManor House was a farmer's residence, and it is not to be wondered at that the old oak carving and pannelling was so little valued that it Avas covered with successive coats of paint. The staircase is unique, the carving of the balustrades being carved out of the solid wood much in the Grinlin Gibbons* style though as to
Firo-plaft' (showin}^ carviiitr) at West ciid of Manor House r)ra\viiif^-rooiii.
* If the possible oarvintr of (Iriiiliii (liblions is any index to thea^jeof the Manor House or f )lrl Hall, it nia.\ be interesting' to note that tlie Kvelyn under the date of Jan. l«th, 1(171, says "I first acquainted His Majesty (,'harles II wiih that Incomparable youny man (Jibbon, whom 1 lately met with in an obseure plare by mere a<:eident^ as 1 was w.alkin^' near a poor solitary thatched house in our jiarish (Deptford). I found him shut in ; Inil looking' i" at the window 1 perceived him rairvinif that la'K'*' eartoon or r-rucilix of Tinloret."
90
CARVING IN THE MANOR HOUSE.
whether or not the work is his is mere supposition. In the drawing room the two oak mantelpieces are elaborately carved with leaves, dragons heads and pomegranates. The room is pannelled and the mantelpieces and window frames are carved similarly to those in the draAving room, whilst the doorways are also ornamented by carving. The whole of the carving is about two hundred years old, and
The xecond Fire-placi.' in Muiior Hou^e 1 •rawiny-iMC ni.
A SECRET CHAMBER. 91
ill one of the \\'(>st bedrooms there is a lire])lace of a similar no(\ There are extensive cellars
under the full length of the house, which are partly walled up. and no donht in common with a large stock of wine, there would l)i' in former days (when much beer was diuiik) a fair (plant ity of ale brought from the blew housf now ciiiitloyed as a laundry. There is a leoeiid reoardinu these cellars to the effect that a subterranean passage ran from them to Whorlton Castle, possibly A\hich Mould be for the escape of recusants. There is also on the servants staircase a mysterious doorway, just large enough for a human being to enter. Once inside one can see high up a pulley from A\hich a ro})e might be hung and a priest or person in danger hauled up to secrecy. This may, or may not have })een the purpose of the secret chamber. The author entered it whilst this vohime A\as in pre- paration and can add nothing to the theory of the authorities Avho have been shown the interesting feature of the house.*
It remains only to be said that the \'icar has the Manor House farm in his own hands and that the beauties and jiossession of the Old Hall have careful and appreciative custodians in Mr. and Mrs. Kyk'.
•|t is rather a rufie jiir iiiiori tli:it wliicli may he surroinuli'd l).v romance iin<l jioi'tr.v to (five flic thcorv. once ikIvuihimI lliat tin; '■secret cluinilicr" niav liiive iieeii used for snioUin^' liacon I!
CHAPTER V.
EARLY ECCLKSIASTICAI HISTORY
Contents of Chapter : st. botolph and after.
PARSON "tommy" BROWN. THE REV. GEO. SANGER. HE BUILDS A NEW CHURCH — AND IS CHARGED W^ITH BURNING IT.
CHAPTER V.
The ecclesiastical life of Carlton has been in keeping with that of the Catholic Chnich for all time, indeed a microcosm of it — troublous, militant, striving, hoping, believing, in spite of all set-backs, all temporary catastrophies, all discouragements, all apparent failures within and without. When it seemed as though the Psalmist's words had a special application to Church life : " Thou hast overthrow n all his hedges and broken down his strongholds . . . and made all his ad- versaries rejoice . . . Lord how long wilt thou hide Thyself forever and shall thy wrath burn like fire." Then came the sequence, which is the very burden of this book, an answer for which we also fly to the Psalmist, " O how amiable are Thy dwellings. Thou Lord of hosts ! My soul hath a desire and longing to enter into the courts of the Lord, my heart and my flesh rejoice in the living God." To-day stands proudly at Carlton the church of St. Botolph as a witness to the Truth, as a testimony to the earnest, affectionate and uiitiiiiig energies of the present Vicar and his Hock. On the site of many previous churches, possil)ly on the very ground where St. Botolph raised a rude cross — the very emblem <jf the Faith — stands to-day a house more worthy, more jjotent, more beautiful than any of its pr(>de(;essors. Well might we apply the words of the giand hymn : —
Faith of our fatheis li\ing still
In spite (jf dungcijii, lire and sword.
96 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
To-day the fine peal of bells ring out the message to the ploughman at his work and the shepherd on the hill-sides the strain of the hymn, the purport of which has for generations been so dear to the heart of Carltonians :
" We love the place 0 God."
On the left hand side of the pathway leading to Carlton Church of to-day stands the base and shaft of an old Saxon cross. Around it one could weave a vista of poetical possibilities and probabilities. It is probable that it has stood on this raised eminence for hundreds of years, it is possible that St. Botolph on one of his missionary excursions into the North tarried here, and that the cutters of stone, who together with monks, accompanied him. raised up this cross — ■ the emblem of the Faith. The Pagan Saxons were much given to worshipping stone pillars (of which we have evidence on the hills above Carlton)* and, as was ever the custom of Hol}^ Church, she took all that was good from Paganism and in place of that which was secular supplanted that which was Christian. So the cross, of which a portion to-day remains, was possibly erected by the instruction of St. Botolph, who would thereupon consecrate the place to the worship of God. and tell the simple Gospel story to those who gathered around it. This would be the first chapter of Carlton's ecclesiastical history — the erection of a rude stone cross (they were not by any means always rude), and the preaching of Christ Crucified. It does not need a very vivid imagination to picture the wonder struck group of villagers listening to the story and saying in effect :■ —
* The Wainstones on Broughton Bank for instance.
THE STIFF-NECKED NORTHERNERS. 97
Wonder of wonders how can it be Jesus the Crucified died for me ].
HoM' St. Botolph, the Patron Saint of travellers, would be beseiged with questions as to the (to them) new Faith, and with what patience and simplicity he Mould have to formulate his answers. One recalls how in the early part of the seventh century a monk was sent to the stubborn North from lona, and failed absolutely to make an impression upon the people, so returned to give an account of his failure to a chapter of monks. He told how stiff-necked and rough we Northerners were, and how our fathers had refused to listen to him. Then was it St. Aidan rose up and said : —
•• It seems to me, brother, that you have been too severe with your ignorant hearers. You might have offered them first of all the milk of gentle teaching until they were capable of receiving more perfect instruction."'
St. Botolph had no doubt discovered this during his wide experience and missionary expeditions. It is interesting, in view of tradition and the fact that the Carlton Church of to-day is dedicated to St. Botolph, to glance at the story of the Saint so far as it is known. HistoiT tells us he founded a monastery on the Gallic model at Ikanho, in South Lincolnshire. Dr. Bright in his " Early Church History tells us : —
j»
'to
'' Sigcbert the Good, was succeeded ])y his brother Swidhebn (709), who was baptised by ('(uld himself, at Rendlesham, in Suffolk. This royal bat)tism exhibited the bishops of Essex and East Anglia as on brotherh^ terms ; and Ethelwood, the East-Anglian King, brother and successor of I^ithelhere, acted as
G
1)8 ST. BOTOLPH AND YORKSHIRE.
sponsor to the East-Saxon, and received liini as he came up out of the holy font." It was about two years since the East- Anglian Christians had heard with interest of the foundation of a monastery on the Gallic model amongst their neighbours the Northern Gyrvians of South Lincolnshire. The founder was Botulf ; the place Ikanho, is usually indentihed M'ith '' Botulf "s town," or Boston, with the neighbouring village of St. Botulph. The foundation is dated in 654, and King Anna's successor Ethelhere is said to have used influence in its favour with a certain " South - Anglian " King, or rather sub-king, called Ethelmund. whose sisters Botulf had met in Gavd, and who had had some of Botulfs kinsman in his service. Botulf asked simply to have a piece of unoccupied land given him : his request Avas granted, and he chose Ikanho because it was desolate."
St. Botolph was the patron Saint of travellers and we read of Ceolfrid, of noble birth, who at the age of 18 had entered the monastery at (billing (governed by his kinsman Tunbert), going into Kent and later to St. Botulf at Ikanho. He was studying the monastic discipline of the great Gregorian houses. He afterwards returned to Ripon, full of the influence of St. Botulfs lowly piety and took upon himself the menial office of baker at Wilfrid's monastery, though later we find him elevated to the position of prior here and Benedict obtained Wilfrid's sanction to transfer him to the same position at Wearmouth.
How long after his visit to Carlton it ^^■ould be ere a Church of any description was built, it is difficult to say. In the early days of Christianity those who had received the Truth were greedy for grace, and so
THK CHURCH AND THE HOLY MASS. 99
loved the Holy Mass that no distance was too far, no time too early, no weather too bad for them to present themselves at the greatest of all Services on .Sundays and days of obligation. There was Whorlton Church. Mount Grace Priory (where those from afar would he hospitably entertained* after Mass and where they could remain for Vespers) and other churches in the immediate neighbourhood, Avhence early Carltonians could, and would go to their duties. Strong indeed must have been the hold and influence of Holy Church in these days, and we believe most devoutly she is returning to her old position.
The English Church is Christ's own home on earth for the outcast millions in our land who are ignorant and out of the way, and are, in consequence, subjects- for the Divine Compassion of our Saviour and King. Genevanism, Lutheranism, Calvinisn, and all the other various " 'isms," which may be rolled together into one and correctly labelled and dubbed the germ- centre of indefinitism have, in alliance with the great Enemy of Souls, done their level best to obscure the truth of the Blessed Sacrament as the centre and foundation of practical Christian life, as set out for us in the formularies of the English Church. They robbed our people of the Mass by deliberate and unl)lushing legerdemain, pernicious clap-trap, and paganistic subtleties. Thus they tore out of their lives the sheet-anchor of their Religion — " Jesus Christ and Him Crucified," as shown forth — as He told us how to do it — in the Holy Sacrament before God. before Angels, and before men. We thank God for delivering us from the thraldom of the Papal claims
•The CarthuHiiiiis hiul no stablinjr for (guests nor did they pretend, at the outset, to entertain j.iltriiniH, but Mount Orace was an extreption to the rule tor the\ provided hOHpitality for man and IjeuHt.
100 THE CATHOLIC FAITH.
+
— the most monstrous assumption in history. Up to the first Prayer Book of Edward VI the Reformation was good. After that, robbers of Churches and Church ■endowments played for the gratification of their own greed and not for the spread of Christ's Kingdom. They ushered into England a time of speculative doubt and controversy, instead of maintaining the Divine certainty of the old Faith of Catholic Christendom as this Church and Realm had received the same. We have struggled in the various revisions of our Book of Common Prayer to repair the ravages of these precursors of Infidelity to the Faith, Worship and Discipline of Holy Church. We are succeeding all along the line, hut much yet remains to be done.*
When at last a Church was built, on the site of the present St. Botolph's, it is supposed to have been in the parish of Hutton Rudby, but was later given to the Abbey at Whitby, though neither Charlton nor Young record this. It is probable that the building would be a very small one, and that it would be served from some neighbouring parish by a priest, who would say Mass occasionally, bury, baptise and marry. In the fire, of which mention will be made later, many of the registers were destroyed, and only those from 1700 have been available. These have been 'of but little assistance as the priests have not signed their names. About 1750 we find William Deason was vicar of Carlton, and not only so, but also of Faceby, Whorlton and Osmotherley. However he succeeded in attending to the spiritual needs of these several parishes, one cannot understand. Tradition says that he rode an ass between the places, and that
*See aims of "The Leafj^ue of the Holy Sacrifice" from which the foregoing- is taken,
THE OLD CHURCH.
101
in 17.")8 he lived at Carlton and worked the distant parishes from there. However this be, we find in the register that in this year —
October ye 31st, EHzabeth, daughter of William and Ann Deason, born and crystin'd at Carlton.
In 1762, she Avas buried at Stokesley, and in the same year Ann Deason also died and was buried at Stokesley.
The Rev. Thomas Deason succeeded him, and in his day the Church Avas, according to Graves, who wrote in 1808 (it is not likely there Avas any alteration in the interim), " a small modern-built structure and
Carlton Church in 1S7S, before tlie triuiscpts were arlded by lUv. ('■. Sanjjer.
stands in a retired situation adjoining upon the farm yard of the Mansion House, toAvards the West. It Avas probably, on its first foundation, endowed with rectorial rights, but being given to the monastery at Whitbj',
102
AN OLD TIME PARSON.
to which it was made appropriate, it was reduced at the dissolution to a perpetual curacy. The Rev. Thomas Deason is the present (1808) incumbent."
In the early part of the 19th century the Rev. Thomas Brown was curate in-charge. He was some- what of a character, and in an interesting communica- tion to the author Mr. W. H. Burnett (who did much for Cleveland literature in his day, but will not be remembered by the present generation) says : —
" Some two and a half years of my very long appren- ticeship were spent under William Jackson Bro\\n, Parson Brown of Carlton's son. I was often sent on errands to the Vicarage from Stokesley. Mrs. Brown was very fond of me. Her husband was a curious
#^
\iciiraye at Cailtoii
REMINISCENCE. 103
character, weak, but far from a bad man. As a boy the Cleveland Hills were to me as the Blue Alsatian moun- tains of the song. Carlton Bank was the fairest of them all. I can see its blue outline now (after half a century I) with the deep hollow at the top like a crater from whence the alum shale had been taken, and in the almost inaccessible crags of which the jackdaws used to build. Many a time have I stood gazing upon it with deepest reverence from a coign of 'vantage in the dear old vicarage garden spelling out, so far as a child could, the miracle and mystery em- bodied in its seamed fissures and high placed peak, seemingly reaching to the sky. How more than passingly beautiful — nor is it gone yet. the beauty and the dream I Busby Beck was ruddy with the shaley refuse of the ancient alum workings from Carlton Bank, red rud we used to call it. 1 used to go all round the Carlton and Busby farms "" mumping," and my companions and 1 used to gather in a store of red rud* at the same time from the bed of Busby Beck. To revert to my visits to the Vicarage, I fancy they w ere for money, and sometimes I had long waits which were delightful. Dear Mr. Brown he had a face like an angel. Mrs. Brown had a heart- aching time with the two of them. W. J. B. until 1853 had the sho]) on the left of the narrow street entering on the stone l)riflge. which crosses the beck from the main street leading from Stokesley market place. His mother once came and stayed w ith hiiu foi' a month. There was a corridor hcliind the slioj) out of which a. window gave a \ icw of what was passing in it. You could not howevei' see out of the shop into the corridoi* as the lattei' was (piite dark. One night after 1 had closed up. .Mrs. lirowii called tiie into the dining-room. 8he
Then iisi-ii ii.i .i.i.ri sj, ])>; niul kiii-iirii iioid'.^.
104
AN OLD TIME PARSON,
startled me bj^ saying she owed me an apology. Then she said she had been watching me for a month to sec where the money went, suspecting me. She had found out she had done me a great injury. She gave me 2/6 and enough grey cloth to make me a suit, and flannel for one or two shirts, by way of apology.
Ke\. T. Brown, an early Vicar of Carlton.
I didn't understand at all what it meant for I was very young. But I ran home to my dear mother as fast as my legs could carry me, and the feelings of a transporting joy which such kindliness gave rise to is with me yet, and, as I think of it, moistens niy eyes.
" As I have already hinted Parson Brown was a man of very 'pleasing appearance.' He was kind to every- body, and if he frequented the village ale-house a little too often, we may still say of him, he was only his own enemy. Facially and in manner he was every
MORE REMINISCENCE. 105
inch a parson, and had that expression of sweet huniihty and goodness which is oftener revealed to us by the artists in stained glass than in actual life. In everything but his patent weakness he was a perfect representation of the Vicar of Wakefield as limned for us by Goldsmith. He used readily to own his little weaknesses and foibles, and was known to advise his parishioners from the ])ul])it " to do as I say and not as I do,' evidently thinking, in his case at any rate, that example was not better than precept. 1 remember on one of my visits to Carlton they were much disturbed at the vicarage because the latter-day saints had been holding meetings in the village, and had made some converts. The Mormon religion was then in the first era of its fascination : It has been greatly shorn of its romance since then.
'■ William Jackson Brown was very like his father in many of his habits. Mrs. Brown, his mother, used frequently to come and stay with him for a month or so at a time, as the little business at Stokesley did not make headway as she would like. There was little opportunity for it to do so, as there was another printing establishment in the little town, which could not possible maintain them both. The takings were very small in t lie stationer's shop. ' Mrs. Brown was a fine, motherly-looking person — a model vicar's wife.
•■I always thought Cai'lton a very su|)erior village. The trees surroimding the houses are fine, and t he w hole entourage very romantic ; but the eye of a child — I was not nine then — gives to all tilings its own aspects of illusion and mysticism. 1 wonder if 1 should think It so uow , U)i i have not seen it since; those ha])p
106 A HUNTING STORY.
years. Mrs. Brown was very kindly and thoughtful, and used often, when I had to wait for replies to notes or for parcels that were not made up, to send me into the vicarage garden, where I amused myself in my own fashion. I rarely came away without some fruit or confectionery."
There is a local tradition that on the occasion of a wedding at Faceby the Bilsdale hounds were to run a bagged fox there caught by G. Haggers. " Tommy "" Brown, begged them to wait till the ceremony had ■concluded, but becoming impatient they turned down the fox, which, in the irony of things, ran past the Church. The story runs that the parson on hearing the music left the couple with the command " Come again to-morrow." and ran into the vestry, unvested and was soon galloping after the glad throng a la the hunting songs
Bvit he hears the sweet sound Of the horn and the hound. And he knows it is time to be there. Says he for your welfare I'll pray. I regret I no longer can stay Now your (not) safely made one I must quickly be gone For I must go a hunting to-day.
Unfortunately for the veracity of the legend it may be said as a certainty that Parson Brown would never have sufficient money to keep a horse, and in those days the Bilsdale sportsmen were never loth to wait an hour or two ere they turned off a bagman. I used to hear a song sung at the Bilsdale hunt gather- ings, regarding this old time Carlton vicar, which had reference to the stealing of a sheep.
PRArTH'AL CHRISTIANITY. 107
Whatever ina\- have been Parson Brown's faiUngs the lingering memories of him in the Parish are of the very kindest. It seems that he was so anxious to help his flock and so ready so to do, that they had no scruples against calling him up at midnight to lend them a hand with a foaling- mare or calving-cow or in any other, to them, momentous occasion. According to the stories one hears he was kindness in itself, and was never happier than when helping some of his parish- ioners out of a hole if they were a man short in the harvest field or on a thrashing day. He used to attend all the " harvest homes " (known locally as niell suppers),* at which every man, woman and child, who had assisted in the ingathering of the corn assembled to feast, sing and dance. He must have been a very human old ])arson with a practical religion, whilst the remark of an old parishioner " Mr. Brown's reading of the scriptures was more tellin" than monny another man's sarmons," seems to suggest that he had a power and presence with him.
Pai'son Brown was domine as well as pastor, and the late John Wake told me he was taught by him. On a Sunday the scholars used to assemble at the School .and walk two by two to the Church porch, where they formed a human avenue and awaited the arrival of the Marwoods, who (like (he Reeve's had a family |)c\\ ill the Church). The service never began till the Marwoods had aiiivcil. which reminds one of an old Yorkshire rhyme. f
An" nivver a wo'd frev t "parson's lips cam
Till t' s(|uire had settled him doon,
Foi- he thowt mair o" him than the Loid a gay bit.
See paj.fe 82, K. Blakebroufjrirs " Wu, cUaxacler and fotklorc nf th, Sortii Hull, hi <il yitrkultire."
t From an old Siniiint,'toii Mmit Soiitr : See " Kiitrhmd's nldc"-! Hunt," liy llie /antliov of thiN book, jia^.'^e 177.
108 BUILDING A NEW CHURCH.
Regarding his day Ord tells us " the present im- propriator is C. Reeve, Esq." and adds " the glebe house is an awkward, incommodious building, having- been built at three several periods."
Mr. Brown was followed by the Rev. George Sanger, who had 'verted from Wesleyanisni and had been a curate at Stokesley. When he came to Carlton he would find the church according to the description of Ord (1846). "The church is a singular and extraordinary structure, the steeple like a Norman tower, the nave and chancel little better than a shepherd's hut."
He was not long ere he formed a scheme to build a new Church, and I was fortunate enough to come across an article which appeared in a Yorkshire newspaper telling of his labours and the terrible blow which went like iron into his soul. I give the article here in toto : — ' ' When the Vicar of Carlton first came to his parish the thatched, barn-like church afforded very poor accommodation, being frequently flooded. He built " the j^rettiest church in Cleveland " * in its place, but for many years now it has been a dismal, roofless pile, and the parishioners are worse off than ever. It is a singular story ! I visited Carlton nearly 17 years ago, and saw the late Rev. George Sanger at his labours. The roadway to the sequestered village is steep and worn deep into the hill side. From the high bank on either side red tiled houses peep out through the trees. Amid blocks of stone and moss-grown tomb- stones the Vicar stands beside his Avorkmen, dressed in cotton jacket and apron, mallet and chisel in hand.
* There is diversity of opinion rejfarding this, and the author is told that the fo\indation and many other points woeful)}' pointerl to tlie lack of an experienced, architect.
A PARSON OF PARTS. 109
■carving bosses* and shaping window pieces. In familiar tones he directs how courses shall be laid, what work is to be got forward, or bends his finely- featured face to more accurately follow his designs.
Not only has he drawn the plans, but he is his own contractor, clerk of works, master mason, and foreman carver. Even at this early stage I can see that the building is to bear the impress of a many-sided genius. Apart from his bearing this man is like other men. His broad head, high brow, deep-set ej^es, and singularly gentle countenance suffice, however, to distinguish him from the 'ordinary artisan' From his face one can judge him to be a man of refined tastes. Now and then he raises his head proudly, and surveys the growing edifice with a sense of satisfaction that can only be felt by one who has created and completed something entirely with his own hands. With a smile, a nod, and a word he takes leave of his workmen and proceeds to the vicarage. Returning from his tea he resumes his task alone and works away in this solitude till twilight comes. Darkness cannot stop such a worker ; it meretydrives him to his book-binding bench, where by- midnight he has earned sufficient to pay for to-morrow's building material. In two years the task is completed, and London and provincial Press alike praise the genius and resolution of the Yorkshire vicar.
Nothing more was needed to make the village, with its 200 inhabitants, almost an ideal one. On my second visit I saw the church, a cruciform and commodious structure with lofty-tiled roof and tapering spire. In the belfry the ringers are sending forth a
•Some of Mr. Sanger's carvinp is still extant on the pillars of the entrance Rate. At the (inif of correctitivr thf proof sheets of this book, arrangements are in I«ro)fre».s for erectin;.' a lyoh (^ate here.
11(»
A PARSON OF PARTS.
merry peal. The chimes cheer the hearts of the stoical dwellers in the hills, and the simple tillers of the plains hear the soft sound as they turn over the sweet-smelling hay. WindoM's. round which clematis and jasmme cling in summer and peach and pear droop to ripeness under autumn suns, are thrown open, and sounds of
The Church as restored by Rev. Geo. Sanorer, 1S79. destroyed by fire in 1881.
singing within are heard. Bells are the music of the country, for they waken up melody in the bush and under the rooftree where songs are seldom sung. There is a hum in the air as of complete content. But my mind has strayed far from the church. Windows, porch and pillar alike bear the mark of exquisite taste and rare skill, whilst oaken pulpit and lectern show cunning use of carver's chisel. The Vicar's pleasant voice, which I had heard when it was employed to lighten the task of the toilers, is now used to expound the Scriptures Sunday after
THE CHURCH IN FLAMES^ 1 1 I
Sunday till all the life of the place has centered round the Vicar and his church. Alas ! in a year all this was changed.
This unique edifice was destroyed by fire on the lltth October, 1881. It was discovered at 3 a.m., and the roof, belfr\' and bells fell through with a crash an hour later. Sympathy went out to the Vicar at first, for it was generally believed that the shameful work was the result of an act of incendiarism. Colour was given to the theory m hen it became known that the greenhouse at the vicarage had previously been despoiled, and that the Vicar had been Avarned to quit the parish. The author of the letter told him to leave the parish, or he would annoy him till he did. If necessary he would use a rifle bullet. Then still stranger stories were set afloat regarding the matter. Soon after his marriage he was arrested on a charge of setting fire to his own church.
When before the magistrates, who ultimately (lisniissed the charge for want of evidence, the anxious Vicar seemed to feel his position acutely, He was pale, haggered and handsome. How could such a man set fire to a church, iiiiich less that which he had built i It was pitiable and pathetic to see this man for hours together '' standing before his betters." During the j)ast few years h3 calmly conversed with stiangers on the incident which had helped to wreck his career, and many believed that he knew th(^ author of the mischief. Maybe he did. oi- possibly he merely had his suspicions. I'robahly lii.s silence iji any case was discreet. He was iiiliibiled lor an ofl'ence against the Church, and com- IM-lleil 1() li\e the scandal down. No nuiri'iages have been celel)iate<l. no sei\ ices held since, and jx'ople
112 A RUINED CHURCH AND RUINED LIFE.
preferred to be buried miles away rather than by him, so bitter were the feelings. Where such a feud existed the details of the Vicar's life were not allowed to die. Everyone save the children slighted him, and even to them he was a man who spent his days walking alone on the hill tops, and was not allowed to teach or preach on Sundays. The last time I saw him he seemed a man grown old with grief. Like Othello he found his occupation gone, and had nothing to do but live in vain regrets. His handsome face, with curh^ white hair falling on to broad shoulders, and his erect carriage reminded one of '' the Silver King." Certainly his life was scarcely less sad and jDathetic.
Twelve months ago the stones, font, and shattered communion rails were gathered into a heap, and the Vicar occasionally held services within the blackened Avails. On Sunday, August 19th. 1894, I attended such a service. Rain began to fall as the Vicar com- menced his sermon on the well-known words of Shakespeare, " There's a Divinitj- which shapes our ends, rough-hcAv them how we will." The con- gregation stood under their umbrellas, but the bare headed Vicar stood unprotected. His utternaces were those of a pious, thoughtful, and widely-read man. After referring to the various sciences, and showing considerable intimacy with some of them, especially geology and astronomy, he concluded : " Often man is condemned, probably not so much from malice as from ignorance, but to all such sufferers it is a happiness to know that what is mj^sterious to the malignant and ignorant is revealed to God, who Avill be the final Judge of all."
G
114 PRESS CRITICISMS.
The Rev. Geo. Sanger published the following appeal for assistance in several papers : —
" The Revel. George Sanger, Vicar of Carlton-iu-Clevelaiid. earnestly begs Churclimen to help him. He has l^iiilt a up\^' Church, having done a great portion with his own hands. He needs £200 more to pay outstanding accounts for materials. Will Churchmen help him, l)y subscribing — by giving hiiTi work as a bookbinder — or will ladies assist towards a Bazaar to be held about the end of July. Postal Address, Carlton Vicarage, Northallerton. Rail address — Sexhow Station, N.E.R."
The following are interesting in connection with parochial ecclesiastical history' : — •
(From the Archdeacon of Cleveland's Charge at Saltburn. May.
1879). " The restoration of village churches involves considerable laboiu' on the part of the clergy. The Revd. George Sanger has. during the past inclement winter, reljuilt the Parish Church of Carlton in a very effective manner. The rebuilding was a work of alisolute necessity. The Vicar designed and executed the restoration, doing all the wood and stone carving with his own hands. I am sorry to learn that £200 more is required, I hope, however, that the liberality of Churchmen will not leave 'Sir. Sanger long in difficulty."
(From the Press.)
" The new Parish Church of Carlton-in-Cleveland was opened for divine service yesterday (March 13th, 1879). by the Venerable Archdeacon of Cleveland. The new building is in the form of a cross, externally composed of freestone from the quarries in the neighbourhood. Eight very chaste tracery windows are placed in the liuilding. The east window is beaiitifully ( hisr'lled, lieing one of the finest church windows in Cle\'eland. The internal arrangements are all that can be desired.'"
" The parish of Carlton-in-Cleveland has a model Vicar, who recently re-opened his Church, the ricketty condition of which made the work of rebuilding a necessity. The Vicar took all the responsibility and management of re-erection upon his owii shoulders, and worked as few clergymen have ever done in rebuilding a church. He laboured at book-binding for two years, getting work M'lien he could, in order to raise money ;
DE MORTUIS NIL NISI BONUM. 115
he wrote above 2.(MI0 letters soliciting subscriptions, aacl olitained all the donations that were secured ; he designed the building liiniself, preparing plans and specifications ; and he acted also as clerk of the works, and personally employed and superintended the workmen engaged on the liuilding. The wood and stone carving he did with liis own hands, and. in fact, took his place regularly among tlie masons anrl joiners.'"
" The Vicar of Carlton has worked at his new Church with "heart, head and hands, and his appeal deserves a hearty response from all churchmen."'
The story of the building and burning of the Church has been told (with literary license) in a novel entitled Peccavi, we would write rather De mortuis nil nisi honum and would say that it seems incredible that a man who had given of his ver}' life's blood to the building of a church, had put all his skill, his thought, art, ability and strength into the work should he the one to bring it all to the ground a mass of blackened ruins. The suggestion seems wild and impossible and some of those who have had time to hear all the evidence, and every insinuation, are con- firmed in the certain ojnnion that the Rev. Geo. Sanger had no ])art in the burning of his Church. The mystery will i)rol)ably never now be solved, though it is said the latc^ \'icar himself could have exjjlained it and that spleen was the niotive. Woe to a (U)untry parish ])riest even to-day when his tloek perceive any Haw in his cluiracter. Much more so was it woe in the days of tlie Rev. Ceo. Sanger. Once down he was kicked nnmercifully. Mr. Kyle came across a full statement of accounts regarding the receipts and allocation of finance in Mr. Sanger's day and more "for the Jionoui' of the dcail ijuin ;in\tliing else it is given here ; —
116
MR. SANGER S BALANCE SHEET.
CARLTON CHURCH.
KF.-BUILDINU FUND.
Greorge Marwood, Esq., Busby Hall
J. R. Reeve, Esq., Bassett
Right Hon. Earl Feversham
Mrs. Wynne Finch
A Friend . .
Miss Mello, Carlton
His Grace the Archbishop of York
Lord de L' Isle & Dudley
T. J. Wharton, Esq., Skelton . .
John Hutton, Esq., Solberge
Mr. R. Calvert, Stokesley
Douglas Brown, Esq., J. P., Q.C.
The Rev. J. Gardener, D.C.L., Skelton
Mrs. Pease, Hvitton Hall, Guisbrough
Admiral Chaloner
The Rev. F. D. Legard, Stokesley
The Rev. A. H. Gumming, Whorlton
The Rev. J. F. Newton, Kirby
Mark Robinson, Esq., Stockton
Miss C. Peel
J. Emerson, Esq., Easby Hall
J. W. Pease. E.sq., M.P.
Col. Harcourt, M.P.. Ryde
Wm. Armitage, Esq., Ainderby Hall .
Miss Nightingale, Faceby
The Hon. and Very Rev. the Dean of York
Miss Fenwick, Newcastle
The Venerable the Archdeacon of ClevelandS
I. Lowthian Bell, Esq., M.P. . .
F. A. Milbank, Esq., M.P.
Mr. Wni. Barker, Stokesley
E. V. Harcourt. Esq., Whitwell
Mrs. Mello, Carlton
Hassard Dodgson, Escj.
J. Thompson, Esq., York
Dr. Forbes, Stokesley . .
Hon. and Rev. C. Glyn
The Rev. J. Lipscomb, Welbury
|
£ |
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|
100 |
0 |
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|
30 |
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MR. SANGER S BALANCE SHEET
Col. the Hon. Octavius Diincombe
Arthur Pease, Esq.
George Gilpin Brown, Esq.
Isaac Wilson, Esq., M.P., Nunthorpe
Mrs. Cholmley, Whitby Hall . .
Mr. & Mrs. Fawcett. Stokesley
The Rev. J. IbV>ettgon, Ayton
Mrs. Spencer, Yarm
Mr. W. Weighell
Miss Mello. Ilfracombe . .
The Rev. J. Hull
The Misses Dodgson
Miss L. Marwood (Sundries)
The Misses Marwood
The late George Wilson, Esq., Hutton
The Rev. R. I. Steele, Harsley
Miles Cadle. Esq., Coatham
Mr. R. Brown. Stokesley
T. E. Pynian, Esq., Linden Grove
J. Hall, Esq., Stockton-on-Tees
The Rev. J. B. Caffin, Northallerton
Mr. J. Gilchrist, Stokesley
Mrs. Steele, West Hartlepool
Sir A. Guiness, :\1.P.
The Rev. J. Winpenny, Yarm
The IMisses Moor, Sexhow
A Friend . .
Mr. Brack, Carlton
Mr. Joseph Smith. Carlton
E. G. Saye, Esq., Nimthorpe
Lord Helmsley, M.P. . .
G. Y. Blair. Esq., Stockton
Mr. T. Benton, Busby . .
Mr. G. W. Rickatson, Stokesley
Mr. Dixon, Skelton
Mr. Jackson, Brotton . .
R. Nightingale, Esq., Facel)y
Thos. Cail, Esq.. Stokesley
ITie Rev. P. Metcalfe, l'.ill)r<.ugii
The Rev. G. Roberts
117
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118
MR. SANGER S BALANCE SHEET.
T. W. Pybus, Esq., Stockton
J. Ashworth, Esq., Bolton
J. Richardson, Esq., Potto Hall
W. Bonnivvell, Esq.
The Rev. R. Pullein
Mr. Eyles
Mr. W. H. D
Mr. Thomas Potts
Mr. Elders
Mr. Furness
Mrs. Lloyd Hazlecroft . .
The Rev. E. G. Charlesworth
C. E. Jameson, Esq.
Mrs. Wilson, Nunthorpe
Miss Wilson, Nunthorpe
Thos. Horsfall, Esq., Hornby
The Rev. W. Bowlan. LL.D.
The Rev. J. Bailey
Miss Clark
Mrs. Saunders, Clifton . .
Miss Saunders, Clifton . .
Mr. Robert Hart. Faceby
J. Appleyard, Esq.
The Rev. F. H. Morgan, (iuisbrough
Mrs. Chapman
Mr. J. A. Robinson, Carlton
Miss Mathwin
Mr. Geo. Stephenson, Stokesley
Miss Doughty
Two Servant Maids
Proceeds of Bazaar, Sept. 1st. IS 7'
Carlton Church Choir . .
Collecting Box
Six Offertories in Cliiu'ch
Offertory in Ayton Church
Proceeds of the day, laying the Founda tion Stone (Sept. 10th, 1878 — including £10 from Mrs. Reeve)
Proceed of Concert given at Stokesley by the Carlton Church Choir
|
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MR. SANOKRS BALANCE SHEET. 11'.)
£ s. (I. Procc^eds of day of npi'tiini;'. Marcli l;!tli.
1S7!»
Tlic l\c\\ (I. Sanger (l)ook-l)iii(lini:) . . Incorporated Church I^uildiiii; Society
j^raiit Diocesan Cliiu'ch Huildiiij: Society grant Sale of (lid material
Collecting Cakds. Mr. Kyles
Miss C. Mello
Miss H. Moore
Mrs. Welford
Mr. W. W. Johnson Mrs. Thornpsdii
Mrs. Weighell
Mr. ^^^ Hutcln nee
:\Irs. Bush
Miss Busli Miss Ward Mrs. Fawcett
Mr. J. VN'rightson
Miss Amelia Wake Mrs. Smith
Mrs. Wright
Miss Scartli
Miss Stott
^Ir. ( 'hapnian
'Jot a I tSSf) 19 1
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Tlif forcffoin^ list show.s how Mr. Sanger had the Mi|i|)(ii'1 ot the wJKilc country side and liow he gave the proceeds ot his hook-binding towards the great aim of his life. 'I'lie now Church was opened on March 13th, 1871) and on Ocrtoher H)th. IKHl. late one night the villagers wcic a\\akened from their slum))ers by the cry of fire. There are, of course, a iuind)er living — old -Mis. Wake, Mrs. John Elliott (nee Miss Barnai'd)
120 RURAL priest's DIFFICULTIES.
Mr. Mello and others — who stood in the Church yard and helplessly watched their church gutted by the ever increasing flames. I have heard vivid description of the scene, how the very hills were lighted up, how the roof fell in with a tremendous crash, how the iron bells, white hot came thudding down into the heap of debris. It must have been a sad, sad scene for priest and flock, as, satiated with sight seeing, worn out with heat and excitement, they turned away from their church — a church in ruins. The impressions of that dreadful October night, thirty years ago, have never left those who were spectators, the very smoke is in their nostrils to this day, and they talk of it yet with more or less bated breath. There is no need to reap up the sordid anti-climax of the arrest in London and the charge of incendiarism preferred against the Vicar. There is no need to dwell upon parochial bitterness and rumour. Imagine a tiny parish with many suspicious folk in it, go back thirty years, nay, take the attitude of the average communit\' in a rural parish to-day, towards their parson if they get " a handle " against him. They grip it with a cruel, relentless firmness, they strain and jndl un- mercifully at the handle till it is distorted, exaggerated and enlarged, and the Devil laughs the while. The parishioners of Carlton had a handle other than the fire against their vicar. He stood at >Stokesley police court during the long hours of his trial and not a shred of direct evidence was brought against him in any shape or form. He left the court unconvicted of incendiarism after a searching enquiry, but he was a broken man. For another offence he was inhibited, and if ever man suffered punishment it was he. The world, my masters, is strenuous in ])reaching repentance but sIoav in
A DEATH-BED SERMON. 121
forgiveness. So the Rev. Geo. Sanger spent his days book-binding, wandering on the hills, and no doubt obtaining that sympathy from Xature which human beings with-held. Was there ever a time when a man, and a priest at that, needed more the outstretched hand and warm heart of a brother ! His church gone, his friends gone, inhibited, disgraced, draggled through the mire, hair whitened with sorrows, a burthened heart — a bruised reed ! He was, we are told, shunned, avoided, not actually physically illtreated, but stabbed to the very heart each time he walked down the village by being made to feel an outcast, a priest without an altar, without a cure, without status — a cipher. Let us hope he found consolation on the hills, amid his books and best of all when he poured out his soul to his Great Judge —
There is no place where earth's sorrows Are more felt than up in Heav'n ; There is no place where earth's faihngs Have such kindly judgement given.
In the November, 1894. Geo. Sanger, priest, went to give an account of his stewardship. He knew of the approach of that calm beckoning angel, we imagine he prayed her to hasten. A week before the end came he sat uj) in bed and wrote his parting message to his Hock and craved permission for it to be posted on the doorway of the blacksmith's shop. There is a wealth of eloquence, of Christian charity, of soulfulness in the good-bye of the dying priest : —
Let us all look upon the past to gather wisdom for future steps, regarding our neighbour's feelings as our own. " Put your- self in his place " is not a bad motto, when tempted to say an unkind word of someone. You may lose, perhaps, a little momentary gratification of revenge, but the sunshine after in your own heart will be well try it : it can't be described.
122 THEN SIIAT.L ALL HEARTS BE OPEX.
The rebuke, the underlying heart-brokenness, the yearning for peace, the outcry of the very soul for affection, touched the villagers, and one by one they turned them to the little vicarage and the eyes of the old priest closed in a greater joy than he had known for years. Again we say de morfuis nil nisi boninn. His remains are laid near the old Saxon cross with no stone to mark the spot and over the mound falls the shadow of the new church which it would have re-^ joiced his heart to see. The body of Geo. Sanger, priest, lies there amid the forefathers of the village, awaiting the great day when all graves and hearts and secrets shall be open. Then will his story be fully known.
-f
3esu "I" >tt
:ercv.
(KAPTEPv VI.
KCCl.ESIASTICAL HISTORY
(continued)
Contents of Chapter.
REV. .). L. KYLE"s incumbency. THE BUILDING OF THE NEW CHURCH. VARIOUS GIFTS. THE BKI.l.S.
CHAPTER VI.
In 1894. the Rev. J. L. Kyle, M.A. (St. Catherine's, <'ainbridge) was presented to the living. He was vicar of the neighbonring village of Hilton at the time, and <-ame to a parish with a mined church, amifl a people who for fifteen years had l)een })ractically without instruction. Not a very bright prospect ! you say — but what a field for ^\■ork ! Mr. Kyle saw all the drawbacks, he saw all the possibilities. Strong — physically and mentally — in faith, character and personality, he entered the thorny field, and placed the yoke on his shoulders. If there is any truth in the theory of predc.tination, here is a case, foi' if ever a ])riest was meant for a parish the Rev. John Latimer Kyle was ordained for Carlton-in-Cleveland, and if ever a parish nnr has been blessed with a help- mate with affectionate sympathy, spurring en- couragement, restraining tact, business acumen, and love of Holy Church, the vicar of Carlton has had it ill liis wife.
Very soon we find him writing in his parish magazine : "The 15 years this parish was without its Church has left its mark on this village, as it has left a gap in -a good many lives of want of teaching at a very critical .age."
I can now Ixist trace the development of events which culminated so happily by extracts from the parish chronicle, and would just say as an introduction that the vicar at once set hims(Of to work to build
12(5
THE BUILDING OF A CHURCH.
a worthy House of God in the village. No scheme was too ambitious, no building could be too beautiful. The ideal Mr. Kyle set himself and his parishioners, was that found in the words, " This is none other but the House of God and this is the Gate of Heaven."
Sketcli of f'ailt.pii Clniirli wIhm iicarlv rininileted.
On the first circular appeal issue in 1895, the following paragraph occurred :■ —
The parishioners, assisted by friends in the neighboiu'hood, at once began raising fvuids to restore their church. By means of subscriptions, collecting cards, &c., nearly £1,000 has been raised, and it is now felt that (the parishioners liaving worked hard themselves) an appeal must be made to tjiose further away.
AN AMBITION AND IDEAL. 127
as the parish is a poor one, and the Uving small. Owing to the action of the fire and exposure to the weather the walls will require to be rebuilt almost from the foundation. It is estimated that between £1,500 and £1,600 will be required to re-btiilt the church, exclusive of the tower, which will be left until the last. The services now held in the schoolroom are very well attended, thus showing that the people appreciate the church privileges of which they have been so long deprived."
And later Mr. Kyle wrote in an article to " The
Economic Review "' : —
When I was placed in charge of the parish in 189.), I inherited the duty of building a new chtu-ch on a niagnificent site. Mj' predecessor was his own architect, and natm-ally some of the people thought it \a as rather hard that I would not accept a free gift of plans from a young architect. But the site for the chiu-ch stands out so prominently as a land-mark that the whole landscape would be disfigured by an unsuitable building ; and as the ruins had so long remained a public eyesore, I thought it would only be right to use my influence hi trymg to get the best of architects. It is. indeed, a rare privilege for a vicar to be allowed to build an entirely new church. The old walls were thin and poor, and on faulty foundations, which had to h& completely raked out. The svun required to carry out Mr. Temple Moore's plans was nearly £3,000, for which we were promised a very beautiful church of dressed stone, in fourteenth- century style, with an oak roof ; and all the workmanship and materials were to be of the very best quality. The parishioners, after several meetings, came to the conclusion that the parson could hii\e his own way if he would sign the contract and be responsible for the money. This he was glad to do, in order to save the parish from having a hideous structure in brick. The church as it now stands has fulfilled every one s expecta- tions. It is solidly build of stoTic wliifh. by the generous permission of the Earl of Fevershani, was brought from a quarry a few iniles distant, but lying in the hills at the height on one thousand feet. A good many of the farmers in this parish and a few from, neighbouring parishes, especially the smaller farmers, assisted us by con\'eying the materials ; some would sl(Mlge the stone ov<!r the more daiigerovis parts of tin- mad, and otliers would cart it to the church. By du\w^ this ourselves the contractor was Me\'(-r ti-iripti'il til put II pixir stoiii- irifii tlir Imilding."
12S THE VOICE OF THE PARISHIONERS.
The vicar, it is interesting to note, was introduced to Mr. Temple Moore when taking duty at St. John's Church, Bilsdale, whither he rode every Sunday afternoon for two years, after doing duty at Carlton. He has always had a warm place in the hearts of the Bilsdale folk, whom he represents on the Rural District Council at Stokesley, and has certainly done a good work for the dale by obtaining for them the two bridges, one over the river and the other at Fangdale Beck. He thoroughly enjoyed the Sunday visits to the beautiful dale during those two years, and it is perhaps worth placing on record that it was a Bilsdale man who led him the first load of stone for the Carlton Church.
In 1896, the Vicar wrote in his parish magazine : — " When I came to reside in Carlton last year (1895) the parishioners were very energetic and much interes- ted in raising the money for the restoration of the church, and by means of collecting cards, getting up sales of work and concerts a considerable sum was got together. Great dissatisfaction was often expressed that when the church was re-built in 1880, the pari- shioners were not consulted. I therefore determined that this time the parishioners should be consulted, and their wishes as far as practicable carried out. A general Meeting was therefore called on August 6th, 189."). It was well attended, and Mrs. Reeve, the patroness of the living, was present. At this meeting it was unanimously agreed to invite Mr. Temple Moore, Architect, who was at the time bvxilding a church in the adjoining parish, to meet the parishioners and hear their views before preparing plans. Mr. Temple Moore, the following week, met the parishioners in the churchyard. He was told by them they required a church for 200, with a tower (without a tower, it was
THE BUILDING SCHEME DEVELOPS.
129
said it would only be a ' chapel of ease '). The old foundations were to be built upon where possible, and no graves were to be touched ; but as the North transept was built on graves, and the foundations had given way, this must of course, be remedied.
The SonUi Door aiui entrance to Bai)tistr\.
The architect, knowing how the parishioners and friends had come so nobly forward to help the parish, which had been 1") years without a church, suggested to the vicar, that if the parishioners would consent to name a contractor, or a local mason and carpenter, ho would go through their jjrices as he had <lone in a neighbouring church, built by Lord Feversham,
H
130 THE VOICE OF THE PARISHIONERS AGAIN.
and so save the cost of taking out quantities. The meeting determined they would invite tenders from contractors named at the meeting. When the tenders were received from the contractors, another meeting; was held to consider them. The local contractor was £163 below the lowest of the others. The parishioners were not pleased with the tenders, and some said they would like other plans. All that had been done by the architect was to be thrown away, and they would build a church after their own fancy. What use was an architect ! Now it is well to remember that the neighbouring churches of Faceby, Bilsdale and Worsall, were built without taking out quantities, which the parishioners must know are very costly indeed. I im- plored the parishioners not to force me to take out quantities but saw no other alternative, and was bound to carrj' out their almost unanimous \vish. The church is now estimated to cost, including the tower up to 22 feet, £1,680. This sum does not include the architect's fee and the cost of quantities. Towards this sum the trustees (Mr. Wynne-Finch, Mr. G. F. Marwood and Dr. Barnby, Rural Dean) have in Stokesley Bank, £1,216, £63 promised and £100 promised from the York Diocesan Society. The ruins are now being taken down preparatory to building."
On July 20th, a meeting wAs held in the Schoolroom to arrange for the laying of the foundation stone of the new church on August 20th. The stone was laid in due course, a sealed bottle containing coins of the realm, the local papers of the day, and manuscripts with these words : —
" In the 3^ear of Our Lord, 1896, on the t\\ entieth day of August, the foundation stone of the new
THE FOrXDATTON STONE LAID.
131
church of Carlton-in-Cleveland, in the diocese of York, was laid to the glory of God, by Mrs. Martha Reeve, patroness of the living.
"Psalm CXXVII- I. -Except the Lord build the house, their labour is but lost that build it."
Architect : Temple Moore, 46, Well Walk, London.
Contractor : Robert Pickering Brotton, Bilsdale, Yorkshire.
Vicar : John Latimer Kyle, B.A.
Churchwardens : William Scarth, William Elliot.
llii,- -Ni.-u (Jliun-h, I'onscrniH-il Oi-lobcr l.'illij l-^liV.
132 THE NEW CHURCH DESCRIBED.
In January, 1897, the vicar wrote : "the greater part of the church is finished, and with God's blessing we hope in the coming autumn to have the church consecrated. I have especial cause for thankfulness to Almighty God for the help and encouragement given me by seeing God's House being restored, and in being pastor of a people who look so joj^fully forward to the church being re -built to the glory of God, the shadow of which falls on the graves of many of their loved ones. On October 1.3th, the (late) Archbishop of York (Dr. Mwclagan) consecrated the Church and preached from the text " Seek ye first the kingdom of God." Thus is it described in the parochial chronicle : ' ' the church is situated on rising ground at the North end of the village and is designed in fourteenth-century style of English Gothic. It consists of a nave and chancel, with clerestory under one unbroken oak roof, a West tower (which is only completed as far as the nave roof level at present). North and South aisles and South porch. The lower part of the tower is vaulted over with stone, and form.s the baptistry with a gallery above for the ringers. The chancel is paved with blue and white stones placed diagonally. Beneath the sittings the floor is of blocks of wood. The pulpit is of oak with stone steps. The reading desk and lectern are of oak and are lent by Leamington Parish Church. The font is of local stone and bears the text round the top " Suffer the little children to come unto Me, for of such is the Kingdom of Heaven." It is octagon in shape and on the eight sides are carved the Cross, the Breast- plate, the Sandals, the Shield, the Bible, the Helmet, the Sword and the Cup. These are illustrative of the Christian armour mentioned in Ephesians. At the West end of the Church is a prayer window having two teak
THE PRAYER WINDOW
133
doors." The idea of these windows (which are often found in the churches abroad) is that those who
'J'liu l''oiil and ria\Lr WiiiduA.
are unable, through infirmity or other reasons, to remain the whole service, may listen for a time outside. In olden daj's they were used for hearing confessions and often for those outside to see the elevation of the Host at Mass. The church is lighted with candles
134 COST OF BUILDING A CHURCH.
being most in keeping with the architecture of the church and also safer than paraffin lamps. The candles are placed in coronas and swing from the roof by chains.
In the April of 1899, the parish magazine records : — "There is still a debt on the chvirch of between £300 and £400 for extras. The tower had to be built higher than was at first intended, both on account of the cold winds and also to ensure safety against fire. This causes us to be obliged to provide beams, &c., on which to hang the bells (as we all hope to have a peal some day). Then in several places the foundations had to be dug to the depths of several feet more than was contracted for in order to make the building safe, the church had to be lengthened 18 inches at the East to escape the Prissick vault, on the wall of which it would not be safe to build. There is the heating apparatus, the vestry and organ screens, and the hanghig brackets for the candles."
The following is a statement of Cost of Carlton New Church : —
Nave, North and South Aisles, Chancel and Porch
Base of Tower and up to an average of 22 feet which forms West end of nave
Surveyor's Fees and Quantities
Additional work including lengthening of Church to avoid Prissick' s vault and extra as per foun- dation, etc 1 60 0 0
Leading stone from Lord Feversham's quarry and
material from station besides what was led free 162 16 6
Chairs .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17117
|
£ s. |
d. |
|
,660 0 |
0 |
|
234 0 |
0 |
|
102 0 |
0 |
2,336 8 1 Money collected and deposited with Trustees in
National Provincial Bank, Stokesley . . 2,024 2 3
GIFTS TO THE GLORY OF GOD.* 135
INIoney still required
Cost of Tower from an average of 22ft. to completion
A thank offering on Xmas morning, 1898 . .
|
312 |
T) |
10 |
|
1 360 |
0 |
0 |
|
250 |
0 |
0 |
|
110 |
0 |
0 |
Money still requii'ed
January 1899, saw "• a beautiful stained glass ^\indow placed in the Church as the Central West ■« indow near the font, to the memory of the Marwood family illustrative of the words in the communion office, immediately preceding the Sanctus, "Therefore with angels and Archangels." There is a brass plate under the window bearing the inscription " to the Glory of God, In Memory of George Marwood, Frances Anne Marwood, and George Frederic Marwood."
In the same year the Rev. R. Withington, M.A., vicar of Great Ayton, gave the present organ to Carlton Church. It was dedicated on June 22nd and its history will be found in the chapter dealing with the Marwood family. In the November of this year, Mr. & Mrs. Kyle erected a parish room (which remains their private property) in the vicarage garden and here organised lectures on butter-making, andother subjects.
October 29th, 1903 : The beautiful oak Choir Stalls designed by Mr. Temple Moore were dedicated and bear the following inscription : —
To the Glory of God and in memory of John Kyle and Frances Kyle and Francis Horsfall and Susannah Jane Horsfall by their children John Latimer Kyle and Husan Gertrudes Kyle, MDCCCCIII. The stalls in the nave, forming the kiaeeling desks
* Other (,'iftH wliit'h should he recorded are the hrass altar cross, two candlesticks aiul three sets of altar froiilals (festal, peiietontial and Trinity-tide), all hy Miss V. Marwood. Mrs. Kennedy (,'a\ e the hands(jine heaten alms dish (ii'^t offertory as so often incorreil ly descrihed), .Mr. Kyles the oak ■•anctuary rails in memory of his wife, Mr. Tensile iloore two altar i-andlesticks, and Mrs. H. Selby-Lowndes altar vases. Tlie r'arved oak orjran chamber was erected at a cost of about £80 (the proceeds of a Sale of Work at Uusby Hall.
136 MORE GIFTS AND MORE AMBITIONS.
for the two front rows of chairs were generously given by Miss Marwood and Miss Rose Marwood.
May 1904 : A brass pulpit desk with candle- sticks was placed in Carlton Church bearing the following inscription : —
" Presented to the glory of God and in loving memory of Henry Eyles, churchwarden of this Church, by his children Louisa, Frederick and Arthur, 1904."
The same month the oak carving, designed by Mr. Temple Moore, had also been completed and placed round the top of the vestry and organ screens adding greatly to the beauty of the chancel.
Oct. lo, 1904 : On the seventh Dedication Festival the Rev. E. F. S. Besley dedicated the handsome brass lectern generously given by Mr. & Mrs. Gjers. It bears the following inscription : —
" To the Glory of God. Presented to the Cluu'ch of St. Botolph, Carlton-in-Cleveland, on the anniversary of the Dedication festival, October 15th, 1904, by Lawrence F. Gjers and Annie G. Gjers."
Having seen the beautiful church and toAver completed Mr. Kyle was not by any means contented. His unbounded energy and zeal for the temple made him eager for a peal of bells. The old cracked bells which had been left blackened and robbed of any tone they may have had by the fire, never rang but he longed for a peal worthy of the church. Frequently when he has rung the old jangle himself for morning service before going hunting the vicar has met the author at the gate (where he has been awaiting his reverence mounting his groom-held horse), and said "I mean to have a peal of bells, please God, in that tower with a patent by which I can ring out a hymn in a morning." In October, 1905, he seized upon a happy idea and wrote in his parish magazine : —
THE BELLS AND HOW PROCURED. 137
" This has been a remarkable year for wheat. Never in the memory of our oldest farmers have we had a better crop, and we intend to give this year a special thanksgiving of a bell, which we shall call the " Wheat Bell," as a memento of the great blessing in having such an abundant crop. Nearly all the farmers I have asked have promised nie a bushel of wheat or its equivalent. No doubt there are some who cannot see eye to eye with us in trying to raise £654 for bells, but surely for the Housi of God allshould look upon the effort as a great privilege. The Vicar is looking forward with great joy to the day when we shall bo aisle to do away with our cracked bells, and have a peal which we can chime for our daily prayers some well-known hymns."
So encouraging was the response from farmers in the hunting field and at the cattle mart that he set to Avork Avith renewed vigour and wrote to a Yorkshire newspaper : —
" The tower is a very massive one, with verj^ extensive foundations. There is ample room for a peal of eight bells, and we intend to have Ellacombe's patent fixed for chiming, and so be ready in case of an emergency, when bellringers may wish to strike, or perhaps get stale over the ringing. We have some £360 in hand. The contract for a full peal of eight to be of the best metal and in perfect tune is to be £806. The public have been exceedingly good, and Nonconformists have been as kind as Churchpeople in giving to this Bell Fund. About 140 farmers and others have contributed bushels of wheat to mark the good wheat years of 1905 and 1900, and where wheat was promised and was not convenient to bring an ('(|uiva]ent was given in money. The peal of bells are not only a reminder of the services, but will be helpful in many other ways ; they will remind us of the kindly hclj) we have received from other denominations, and will show us that deep down in the hearts of our Nonconformist brethern there is
138 THE EIGHT BELLS, A REALITY.
a kindly feeling towards the old Mother Church. The day, I think, is not far distant when we shall all be one in this and the neighbouring parish, and nothing has helped to weld us so much together as the very kindly way in which we have always been helped by outsiders. There are yet hundreds of farmers and other tradesmen who I am certain would contribute a shilling or two to this peal if only to show the love of union they would like to see amongst all denomina- tions. The wheat bell is an accomplished fact, and was brought about simply bj" one farmer promising a bushel of wheat. A well-known firm of solicitors has kindly promised to enrol all the names of the contributors to the wheat bell on a roll of parchment, and it will form an interesting feature in the history of the church in days to come. A children's bell, too, would form another object of interest. If every mother who reads this would send us 3d., 6d., or Is. we should soon be in possession of another bell. We are told by some croakers £806 is too much to spend on bells, but what is worth doing is worth doing well, and this church and village are unique. The village is one of the most beautiful in Yorkshire, and with its history is deserving of something very good as regards its peal of bells. This notice of our bells has only to reach the eye of the right man in our large works and shipyards, and there would soon be a penny collection for a Avorkman's bell."
Tuesday, June 3rd, 1908, saw the realisation of Mr. Kyle's hopes and endeavours for on that da}^ the peal of eight bells was dedicated by the Bishop of Beverley. The following are the inscriptions on the bells : —
No. 1. — Lawrence Farrar Gjers. " Goodwill to men."
THE INSCRIPTIONS ON THE BELLS.
13!)
No. 2. — Annie Gatenby Gjers.
" Whene'er the sweet Church bell,
Peals over hill and dell,
May Jesus Christ be praised."
No. 3. — John, Lawrence and Olga Gjers.
The New I'fiil of Eitrht Bells.
No. 4. — Strangers" Bell.
" Be not forgetful to entertain strangers." No. ;■>. — Village Bell.
" Here will 1 dwell. U)v 1 have a delight therein." No. 6. — Wheat Bell.
" A Thank-ofTcriiig for good wheat years. 1 90.-) -0(5. No. 7. — Childhkn's Bell.
" Heaven lies about us in our infanc3^"
140 ON THE ASHES OF THE PAST.
No. 8. — A Thank-offering for K. F. L. Kyle.
" God bless Susan, Frances and Frederica.'^
The peal is an abiding joy to the whole country side.
Gentle monitors and kind, Bringing holy thoughts to mind. Even their simplicity Has a spell-like charm for me. Slowly on the breath of morn Is their hallow' d cadence born ; vSacred, solemn tones have they. Borne on wavy winds away. Softly o'er the hills and dells, Sounding out our village bells ; Calling o'er the fields to me. With sweet voices — one, two, three. Stealing o'er the upland height. How their inusic brings delight : Whispering in my listening ear, " Praise thy Maker even here i "'
To-day the church at Carlton is well attended, the Eucharist is offered up at the altar with many fervent worshippers to join in the Lord's Own service for the Lord's Own Day, and on the ashes of the past is built a glorious temple where the Catholic Faith is un- compromisingly taught.
CHAPTER VII.
THE PARSON AS A FARMER
The hay^appeareth, and the tender <irass xheveth itself, and herbs of the mountain are yithcrcd.
The lambs are for thi/ clothing, and, the yoats are the price (if the field.
And thou .•<halt have yoat'g milk.
CHAPTER VII.
" You know years ago the parson* was generally one who was bred and brought up in a covmtry village, who would ride and shoot and luiderstand agricultiue more or less. He took his day's shooting or fishing sometimes, had a knowledge and sort of kinship with men of all classes, saints and sinners, who want a friend in trouble." — " Spo?ts and Recreations by Frederick Gale."
The Rev. John Latimer Kyle, M.A., priest, builder of churches, sportsman, farmer, owner of a public house, friend of everyone, from the gipsy hawker- horsedealer, up the social scale, is an Irishman and proud of it. Another Irish priest I once knew used to frequently excuse himself — or should I say, account for himself — by the constant explanation "You must remember Oi'm Oirish," and similarly one must always take into account a certain temperament peculiar to " the distressful country," which Lever so vividly depicts for us in word picture, and which, if sometimes astonishing and im]ietuous, is invariably charming withal. It is a characteristic of the Irish (and one finds it strong in Parson Kyle) that they are endowed with such tremendous faith and optimism, they never know when they are beaten. This in a lesser degree perhaps, is the possession of the Yorkshireman, who adds thereto a stubborn refusal to acknowledge defeat when it has conic. .\ fall man, of fine physique, retaining some- tliiti'j (.1 the old courtesy of the days of chivalry,
' Parwjti : ilerived either from pen.ona, liecausc the iiarsoii Oiuniimi personam in eccelesia sustiiiet ; or from paroclcianus, the parish priest.— Jolmson.
144
IRISH CHARACTERISTICS.
all too rare in these matter-of fact days, he is at once a personality- That which strikes one at the outset is? the very manliness ot the man, and the
The Rev. J. L. Kyle — " tlie farming parson."
atmosphere or robustness — the scripturally enjoined " Quit ye like men be strong " — which underlies all his parochial ministrations and works. Orthodox he is not, neither ordinary nor commonplace — for orthodoxy
THE REV. J. L. KYLE A PERSONALITY. 145
often means that — though one must remember that one Bishop said " One man's orthodoxy is another man's heterodoxy." His very dress tells us of a finger- snapping at orthodoxy : the soft shooting hat (or somewhat green Jim "Crow)," the grey suit, (often riding kit), the easy coUar and white tie in place of the usual Roman stock, and the heavy boots — are all, to a certain degree, an index to the character of the man. Do you laugh at the lack of the sacerdotal in things sartorial ? — he will laugh with you. Do you look a,stonished when you call upon the pastor to find him in the cow-house or taking a share of the heat-o'-day labour in the harvest field ? He will laugh at your a,stonishment. Do you come to him with hght heart and in humorous view ? He will join his laughter with yours, his song with your song, and in the ■exuberance of his spirits give a step or two of a dance. Do you possess the spirit of the over-nice-kill-joy, or wear the Puritanical gloominess of the uncu' guid ? — ^he Vicar of Carlton Mill do his best to shock you and Mill probably succeed. Are you in trouble ? Ts your heart aching and are there tears in your voice? Are you oppressed or depressed, has this scheme or that great hope been crushed ? Is life for the nonce steeped in the blackness of overwhelming clouds ? You will find the Vicar so sympathetic a listener, so kindly comforting an adviser, that the burthen is eased from your soul and in future days and future meetings you see behind th(^ great hearted, good-natured, laughing and singing farmer-parson, thc^ priest, who. as brothei- to brother, heard the confession and out- jioiiiiii^'- of your very soul in his study and with woudi'ous tenderness sent y<»ii on your way icin- vigorated and refreshed. A dual |)ei-sonality do you
I
146 A PRIEST AND A MAN HUMANE AND SYMPATHETIC.
say ? No ! rather a blending of that which is essentially human with the office of the priesthood, the wide outlooking upon life which enables him to see that all work, so long as it is honest is honourable, all enjoyment and sport, so long as it is clean, is good for man and intended for his recreation. The nobility of labour is an ideal with him, the snob an anathema. Wealth and position without culture and individuality have little fascination for him, whilst poverty is no bar to the Manor House table. Have I said sufficient to justif}^ the opening sentences of this chapter ? If so I need hardly add that the Vicar of Carlton is possessed of a host