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ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM:

O R,

AN ACCOUNT OF THE

ANTIQUITIES,

AND RE MARKABLE

CURIOSITIES

. I n'

NATURE OR A R T,

OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH

GREAT BRITAIN.

ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.

CENTURIA I.

THE SECOND EDITION,

WITH LARGE ADDITIONS.

V

By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M. D. F. R. & A. S.

O Patria^ O Divum domus-, Albion, hiclyta bello I O quam te memorem, quantum juvat ufque morari Mirarique tucz fpe^acula plurima terrae I

LONDON:

Printed for Meffrs. Baker and Leigh, in York-Street, Covent-Garden.

M .DCC.LXXVI.

/ •

PREFACE.

^ I intent of this Treatife is to oblige the curious in the I Antiquities of Britain : it is an account of places and things from infpedlion, not compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s ftudy. I own it is a work crude and hafly, like the notes of a traveller that Bays not long in a place ; and fach it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only as hints for further fcrutiny, and memorandums formyfelf or others : above- all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they pre- fented themfelves : and if my fentiments of Roman ftations, and other matters, happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was not that I differ from them, but things did not fo appear to me. The prints, befide their ufe in illii- flrating the difcourfes, are ranged in fuch a manner as to become an index of inquiries for thofe that travel, or for a Britifh An¬ tiquary. I fhall probably continue this method at reafonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in the country, to make refearches of this nature, and to ac¬ quaint the world with them : they may be aflured, that what¬ ever accounts of this fort they pleafe to communicate to me, they fhall be applied to proper ufe, and all due honour paid to the names of thofe that favour me with a correfpondence fo much to the glory and benefit of our country, which is my foie aim therein.

It is evident how proper engravings are to preferve the me¬ mory of things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than written defcriptions, which often not at all, oftener not fufficiently, explain them : befide, they prefent us with the pleafure of obferving the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the like, through the current of time and viciffitude of things. Thefe embellifhments are the chief deji- derata of the excellent Mr. Camden’s Brita?tnia^ and other writers of this fort,3vhofe pens were not fo ready to deliver their

a fentiments

PREFACE.

fentiments in lines as letters : and how hard it is for common artificers to draw from mere defcription, or to exprefs well what they underfiand not, is obvious from our engravings in all fciences- I am fenfible enough, that large allowances mufi; be made for my own performances in this kind, and fome for the artificers parts therein, who, for want of more pradice in fuch works, cannot equal others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excufe, or a fault, if I fhould plead the expedition I ufed in the drawing part ; but I may urge, that a private per- fon, and a moderate fortune, may want many ufeful afiiftants and conveniences for that purpofe. It is enough for me to point them out to fhow things that are fine in themfelves, and want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deferve to be better done ; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble monuments of our anceftors ; in which cafe only, we are behind other the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a lefs fund of curiofities than they, were the defcrip¬ tion of them attempted by an abler hand, and more adequate cxpence.

Two or three of the plates are inferted only as heads, being not referred to in the difcourfe, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the ruins of Whitehall. I myfelf never faw the palace, but was pleafed that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but the very week before totally deftroyed. Thus much I thought owing to the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at fea with Britifh fhips, and which makes the whole world tremble. 'I'ab. X. is an ancient feal of the bifhops of Norwich.'^' This plate the learned and curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will to promote the work ; the feal is remarkable for having letters upon the edge, reprefented in the empty ringlet ; the manner of it is like our milled money ; but how it was per¬ formed in wax, is not eafy to fay. Tab. XV. was likewife lent me by Mr. Norroy abovefaid. I defign always, in thefe col- ledlions of mine, to infert one plate in a hundred, of fome per- fon’s that has deferved well of the antiquities of Britain:

it

The late John Ives, Jun. Efq ; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. Sc A. S. who was pnflelTed or thele Piates, kindly lent that of Sir Plenry Spelman for this Edition : the other was re-engraved before the Editor knew in wdaofe pofieflion they W'cre.

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PREFACE.

it is but a juft piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL. (the Greek visw at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr. Talman’s collection. I have fome more of that fort: though they relate not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be dif- pleafed with me on that account. How much rather ought we to lament the fcarcity of fuch I What noble monuments of Greece are funk into eternal oblivion, through want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or for want of encourao;cment to thofe that are able ! With what regret do I

O O

mention that moft beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens, without difpute the ftneft building upon the globe, a7ino 1694! that year it was cafually blown up with gun¬ powder, -and not a drawing* of it preferved.

The laft plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I added as an cera of my book. This memorable appearance, becaufe it affeCted not the vulgar like a folar eclipfe, was almoft negleCled by the learned. I had a mind to do it juftice by printing the type of it from the diagram fent me by tlie great Dr. Halley. For my part, 1 congratulate myfelf for living in an age fruitful of thefe grand phaenomena of the celcftial bodies, and am pleafed, that beftde the total eclipfe 1715, we have in the fpace ol two years this great conjunClion, a tranftt of Mer¬ cury acrofs the fun, a comet, the laft eclipfe of the fun, and in March next another great conjunction.

The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and profpeCts of Roman cities, I thought contributed much to¬ wards fixing their ftte, and preferving their memory: they may be ufeful to curious inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are tound from time to time, and in other refpeCts. There are fome few errors of the prefs efcaped me, notwith- ftanding all my care; but none, I think, of any confequence. I have taken care to make the Index as inftruCfing as I could, 'fhe title of Roman roads belongs to fuch as are anonymous, or not commonly taken notice of : that of Romajt corns points to fuch places as are not Roman towns, or particularly defcribed. Ktymology includes only fuch words as are fcattered cafually in the work, or matters that are not comprehended under any other head ; and fo of the reft.

One general obfervation I have made within the fliort fpace of time my travels were limited to, that hufbandry, grazing, cuL tivation of wafte lands, all forts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities, are hugely improved ; and efpecially the mul¬ titude

PREFACE.

titude of inhabitants is increafed to a high proportion : the reafon of it is not difficult to be gueffed at.

What I ffiall next trouble the reader withall, will be my in¬ tended work, of the hiftory of the ancient Celts, particularly the hrft inhabitants of Great Britain, whieh for the moft part is now iiniffied. By what I can judge at prefent, it will conlift of four books in folio. I. The hiftory of the origin and pafiage of the Celts from Afta into the weft of Europe, particularly into Britain ; of their manners, language, &c. II. Of the religion, deities, priefts, temples, and facred rites, of the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltfhire, and others of that fort. IV. Of the celebrated* Stonehenge. There will be above 300 copper plates of a folio ftze, many of whieh are already engraven ; and many will be of mueh larger dimenfions. Upon account, therefore, of the vaft expence attending this work, I ffiall print no more than are fubfcribed for ; the money to be paid to me only. Thus much I thought fit to advertife the friendly reader.

Ormond-Jlreet^ 26 Dec, 1724.

G U L I E

rntBugOMBmemems

GU LIELMO STUKELEY, M. D.

Amicus Amico, &c.

LJJbrica Roma?!! dum 'Tu monumenta pererras Nominis, & tacito faecula lapfa pede :

Dodte opi j ex, variis feii vim fermonibus addas.

Seu placet artifici pagina pidla manu ;

^.anta vetuftatis fummae miracula promis,

Obrutaque indigno moenia celfa Jitu !

Vindice Te, fofjas video procedere longas.

Per loca confiratujn devia ducit iter.

Nunc via fublimi confcendit vertice ino7ites.

Flumina declivis Jiimc per aperta ruit.

Caftra quot hnmenfo retegis cofiftrudla labore ?

Ft tua non finit ars oppida pojfe mori.

Hic 7nira antiquae pende7it C07npagi7ie portae.

Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos.

Celfior exfurgit chartis Roma72a potefias Clara tuis ; idtro efi fajfa ruina decus.

Ecce iterum mgenti pa7idunt curvamme fedes.

Et plaufu refonant amphitheatra novo.

Roma t7'iu7nphato ja7ndudum la77guida 7nundo Nequicquam invidla7n fe fuperefje dolet.

Nec te dira cohors 7norboru7n fola tre777ifcit,

Aji tempus medicas fentit inerfne ma7ius.

^ia77tum Roma tibi, quaiitum Brittannia debet.

0 ingens patriae,. Romulidu7nque decus !

Accipe Phoebea, merito dignijjime lauro.

Sint, qua das aliis, faecula fera tibi.

1. S,

GULIELMO STUKELEY, M D. &c.

EC fola efi medicina Tui, fed Apolline digna7n Artem om72em recolis, mente, manuque potens.

Non modo rejiituis fenio 772orbifque gravatos.

Ad vitam reddis fecla fepulta diu.

Te Linde72fis ager gefiit celebrare nepotem,

^ceque dedit, patria lu7nina grate refers.

G E O R. LY N N, Interior. Tempi. Soc.

In

[ vili ]

In Itinerarium Ciiriofiim amici fui cliariffima viri dofliffimi & Cl. Domini Gulielmi Stukeleii M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar.

O'Jane bifrons ! 'Temporis inclyte Vindex remoti^ de juperis 'oidins Poji terga fohis, nunc adejlo et Egregium tue are amicum Opufque. templi janua Jit tui Serata^ dum ex his nojlra quietior Di fcat juventus, quid avorum Indomita potuere dextra.

^icquid Britannus ferre recufans Pervile collo Romulidum jugum,

Terra fua contentus egit.

Artibus ingenitis beatus.

^icquid ^i rites gentibus afperis Cultu renidens tradere providi :

ViBoriam, Mufafque & artes.

Arma Jimid rapiente dextra.

Nec veflra omittit pagina Saxonem Sicd timendum, relligionibus

Valde revinBum : belli cofs Horribilemve Dacum carinis.

Nec tu recondis faB a flent io Eradar a Nonnanni immemor inclyti-, piorum omnium ef imbutus Anglus Sanguine, moribus, & vigore.

Slua mira doBus condidit artijex Excelfa prifci mcenia fecidi,

^a jirata, pontes, templa, cafra.

Amphitheatra, afarota, turres l Plaudit Jibi jam magna Britannia Antiqua Jplendet gloria denuo.

Chartis refurgit Stivecleji Celfa canens iterum triumphos.

MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C. Interioris Templi Soc. mdccxxiv.

In Stukelejanas Antiquitates.

DEperdiiorUm re jli tutor Temporum Et veritatis in tenebris abdita Scrutator eruditus, arte qua mira valet l Retegit vetufium qidcquid objciiro fmu Abfcondit ALvum. Tempus, hic aciem tua Falcis retundit invidam : frujlra omnia Comples ruinis, jam tua pereunt mina.

Jpfa perire nam ruina nejiiunt.

M. M.

[ ix ]

Ad Itinerarii Curiosi auflorem.

Quantum Roma tibU et Romana Britannia debet-,

Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant.

Me nec Roma fnodos Juaves, nec Celtica tellus Arguta docuit jiringere jila lyra.

Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego ?

Mufa negat. Natura negat, Jed fuggerit unus ^laliacunque poteji carmina nojier Amor.

Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis.

Inter quos nomen glorior ejje meum :

^i patria prifcas arteis, loca, nomina, ^ ipfas Relliquias fandia relligione colunt ; dluo brevis ojiendis conchifus limite campi.

Limite quam nidlo clauditur ingenium, dluoque tuos fenfus permulcet amore Vetustas,

S>ui nullos cafus, ardua ntdla Jugis.

Per jdlebras afp'ras, per tortas ambitio7ies.

Et cacos calles, improbe, cafpis Iter.

Stagna lacufque inter, limojdque pafcua Lindi,

Romana explorans avia /irata via.

Hic ubi forte dolens, pelagi tot jugera redlor /Equoris herbof non fua, rapta tenet.

Plura quide?n t£?iuit, jed jifjit Jupiter acres Marti genas patrui vim cohibere fui.

Haud fecus ac jufji faciunt, partemque receptam Terreni, ut par ef, aquoris ej/e jubent.

Cater a raptori qua 7mnc inanet Ennofigao,

Si quibus efi armis, ef repetenda tuis, dlui terra pelagique adeo declivia monfras.

Et qiib pracipites Nereus urget equos :

Tanta mathematicis fe tollit gloria vefra Artibus ; at numeris grandior ilia meis.

Me rapit addidlum veterum admiratio rerum,

Plendque deliciis pagina quaque filis.

Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adjiruis ipjis.

Perdita qua fuerant, poffe perire vetans.

Eluid referam quantum tibi debet Ciaficus audior,

^li prijeas urbes, cafrdque prifia doces ?

Mercator Jiccis quarens adamantas in oris.

Non tam condudiam verfat avarus humum,

Epuam tu cmn nummos, urnas, & cater a Jigna Antiqua effodias indubitata nota.

No?7iina, qua fuerant oli/n, Romana reducis.

Perdita rejlituens, obfolefadla novoms.

Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vociun ef.

Fallunt Teut077ici, barbaricique j'o72i,

Hiforia7n qiia/itufn decoras, f dicere velle7n,

Hiforiarn videar /c7'ibere, non literas.

Tu

[ ^ ]

'Ju das p7-aieritis veluti prcefentlbiis utd Et redeunt feriptis fcada lapja tuis.

Detrahis ancipiti yano mirabile n.onf.nr,n^

ELt redla facie cernere cundla jubes.

Sed dum commendo tua^ carmine digna Maronis.

Ingenii culpa detci^o, feripta, mei.

Macte tua virtute eflo., patriamque quotannis Eluo pede ccepijli demere are. Vale.

R. AINSWORTH.

lo Dr. Stukeley, upon his Itinerarimii Curiojum.

IJ A I L, Baxter lives ! in each deferiptive page Are fcen the labours of the Roman age :

What ere the Tons of Rome or Albion knew,

We here difeern at one compendious view.

Thus taught we pafs the Caledonian flood,

Or fertile plains that fmile from Cimbric blood :

Where Vaga’s ftreams glide murmuring near the tomb, (Darkfcme recefs) where mighty Chiefs of Rome C

Have flumber’d ages in its filent gloom ; y

Where airy lamps the diftant failor guide.

Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide :

V/here Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe.

Or where Papinian gave the Roman law.

Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s filver ftream.

Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme.

With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I furvey Th’ important conflidf of the furious day :

See, fee ! Frontinus fierce in armour fliine,

Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne.

Here on the plains of Aricon we learn Life’s various period from the peaceful urn.

Yon hoary Druids pray celeftial aid.

Where facred oaks diftufe a folemn fhade ;

Each branch afpiring to the blefl: abode Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God.

Go on, my friend ! the curious theme purfue,

The myftic feenes of early time review, C

And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. \

JAMES HILL, J.C.

Middle-Tdcmpki London j Dec. i. 1724.

I T I-

S

ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c.

ITER DOMESTICUM. I.

7, fuge, fed poteras tutior effe domi. Mart.

fo

MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. Efq. Bartdfitt' at Law of the Inner-Temple.

The amity that long fubfifted between our families giving birth to an early acquaintance, a certain famenefs of difpolition, particularly a love to antient learning, advanced our friendfhip into that confidence, which induces me to prefix your name to this little fummary of what has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND, in Lincolnfiiire but chiefly intended to provoke you to purfue a full hiffory thereof, who have fo large a fund of valuable papers and coiledtions relating thereto, and every qualification neceliary for the work. 7 hat thefe memoirs of mine are fo fliort, is becaufe fcarce more time than that of childhood I there fpent, and when I but began to have an inclination for fuch enquiries : that the refl which follow are grown to fuch a bulk as to become the prefent volume, is owing to my refidence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for opportunities of ftudy, or for the beft converfation in the world, yet I fliould think a confinement to it infupportable, and cry out with the poet,

Irrvideo vobis agros, formofaque prata.

I envy you your fields and paftures fair.

which engages me to make an excurfion now and then into the coun¬ try : and this is properly taking a review of pure nature ; for life here may be called only artificial, efpecially when fixed down to it; like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous cliaradter is fupported for a little while, and then makes an exit foon forgotten. My anceflors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marlhy level, perhaps gave me that melancholic difpo- fition, which renders the bufllings of an adfive and fliowy life difagree- able. The fair allurements of the bufinefs of a profeflion, whicli have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to forfake the (weet recelles of contemplation, that real life, tliat tranquillity of mind, only to be

B met

2 I T E R I.

ir.et with in proper folitude ; where I might make the moft of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if polfible doubly over enjoy its fleeting fpaCe.

I own a man is born for his country and his friends, and that he ought to ferve them in his befl: capacity; yet he confeifedly claims a fhare in himfelf : and that, in my opinion, is enjoying one’s felf ; not, as the vulgar think, in heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational pleafures, but in fioring the mind with the valuable treafures of the knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very pro¬ per fenfe be called the ftudy of Antiquities.

Ofthcfliuly 1 need not make an apology to you for that which fome people of terrelfrial Antiqui- think to be a meagre and ufelefs matter ; for truly what is this ftudy,

' but fearching into the fountain-head of all learning and truth ? Some antient

pl'.ilofophers have thought that knowledge is only reminifcence. If we extend this notion no further than as to what has been faid and done before us, we fliall not be miftaken in aflerting that the paft ages bore men of as good parts as we : enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning ; and happy for us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know, by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but a fucceflion, like the ftream of a river : the higher you go, the purer the fluid, lefs tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with the mud and foil of ignorance. Here are the things themfelves to ftudy upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has con- fifted. If we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among them, here are their monuments: thefe we are to explore, to ftrike out their latent meaning; and the more we reafon upon them, the more reafon lhall we find to admire the vaft fize of the gigantic minds of our predeceffors, the great and Ample majefty of their works, and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of antiquity. But more efpecially it is not without a happy omen, that the moderns have exerted themfelves in earneft, to rake up every duft of paft times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in the underftanding their invaluable writings, which have efcaped the common fliipwreck of time. It is from this nicthod we muft obtain an accurate intelligence of thoie principles of learning and foundations of all fcience: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the ftate of manhood, and with¬ out them the world 5000 years old would but begin to think like a child. Nothing more illuftrates this than looking into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous enough, but barba¬ rous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the folid performances of learned men fince, whofe heads were enriched with an exact learch into the cuftoms, manners and monuments of the writers. Hence it is, that hiftory, geography, mathematics, philofophy, the learned profefAons, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the mufes in general, flourilh like a frelh garden richly watered and cultivated, weeded from rubbifli of logo¬ machy and barren muftirooms, gay with thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the ftocks of the antients. ry'DRiTAiN if ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at home for that purpofe can want no defence; it is ftill coming nearer the lucid fpi'ings of truth. The fatisfadfion of viewing realities has led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers of itrange coun¬ tries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over rugged mountains, barren lands and deferts, A.va inhabitants, and a million of perils; anci ■the world is Ailed with atcou.ds of them. We export yearly our own

treafures

I T E E I.

treafures into foreign parts, by the genteel and falhionable iotirs of France and Italy, and import fhip-loads of books relating to their antiquities and hiflory (it is well if we bring back nothing worfe) whilft our own country lies like a negle6fed province. Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our own mother. The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned England, big with all the bleflings of indulgent nature, fruitful in ffrengths of genius, in the great, the wife, the magnanimous, the learned and the fair, is poftponed to all nations. Her immenfe wealth, traffic, induftry j her flowing flreams, here fertile plains, her delightful elevations, pleafant profpedts, curious antiquities, flourifhing cities, com¬ modious inns, courteous inhabitants, her temperate air, her glorious fhow of liberty, every gift of providence that can make her the envy and the defirable miftrefs of the whole earth, is flighted and difregarded.

You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, wtII know that I had a defire by this prefent work, however mean, to roufe up the fpirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their native furniture : to fliow them we have rarities of domeftic growth. What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be expedfed from a traveller ; for truth in every particular, I can vouch only for my own fliare, ftrangers luuA: owe fomewhat to informations. I can afl'ure you I endeavoured as much as poflible not to be deceived, nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more ufeful and as worthy a part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any tranfma- rine parts. And if I have learnt by feeing fome places, men and manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impoffible to make a claffic journey on this fide the ftreights of Dover.

Thus much at lead I thought fit to premlfe in favour of the fludy of antiquities. And with particular deference to the fociety of Britifh Anti¬ quaries in Loi'idon, to whom I remember with pleafure you firil: intro¬ duced me : fmee for fome time I have had the honour of being their fecre- tary ; to them 1 beg leave to confecrate the follov/ing work. To the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illuftrious and worthy Prefident, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelfea, Peter le Neve, efq; Roger Gale, efq; the illuftrious and worthy Vice-prefidents, and to the learned Members thereof. Then, left I fhould fall under my own cenfure palled upon others, that know leaft of things neareft them, I fhall deliver my thoughts about the hiftory of Holland before mentioned, which may ferve as a Ihort comment upon the map of this country which I publiflied laft year, with a purpofe of affifting the gentlemen that are commiffioners of fewers there, though it is of fuch a bulk as cannot conveniently be inferted into this volume.

If we call our eyes upon the geography of England, we muft obferve that much of the eaftern fhore is flat, low ground, whilft the weftern is fteep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to its great parts, countries or iflands, and likewife particularly as to its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are fteep and abrupt tothe weft,*efpecially the north-weft, and have a gentle declivity eaftward or to the fouth-eaft, and that plains ever defeend eaftward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I took notice of it in our own country, almoft btfore

I

* Cum perpetui fere & afperrimi montes Tint verfus occafum. — Baxter! Gloffarium, voce Otodini.

ITER I.

I had ever been out of it, in the univerfal declivity of that level eaftward, in thofe parts v/here it did not by that means regard the ocean ; particu¬ larly in South Holland, or the w'apentake of Elho : the natural defcent of water therein is not to the fea, as the rivers run, but diredtly eaftward, and that very confiderable. Befide, the current of every river is lower as more eaftward : thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, the Nen than the Oufe 5 and probably at hrft both emptied themfelves by the Oufe or Lyn river as moft eaftward. I obferved in June 1732, that the Peterborough river Nen would willingly difeharge itfelf into Whitlefea mere, and fo to the Oufe at Lyn, if it were not hindered by the ftuice at Horfey bridge by the river Nen. I fee no difficulty to attribute the reafon of it to the rotation of the globe. Thofe that have gone about to demonftrate to US that famous problem of the earth’s motion, have found out many mathe¬ matical and abftracted proofs for that purpofe, but negledled this which is moft fenfible and before our eyes every minute. It is a property of mat¬ ter, that when whirled round upon an axis^ it endeavours to fly from the axis^ as we fee in the motion of a wheel, the dirt and loofe parts are thrown the contrary way in a tangent line. This is owing to the natural inactivity of matter, which is not eahly fufceptible of motion. Now at the time that the body of the earth was in a mixt ftate between folid and fluid, before its prefent form of land and fea was perfedfly determined, the almighty Artift gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the elevated parts or mountainous tradls, as they confolidated whilft yet foft and yielding, flew fomewhat w^ftward, and fpread forth a long declivity to theeaft; the fame is to be faid of the plains, their natural defcent tending that way, and, as I doubt not, of the fuperfice of the eai th below the ocean. This critical minute is fublimely deferibed by the admirable poet and obferver of nature,

Namque canehaf, uti magnum per inane coaBa Semina terrarumque., animaeque^ marifque juijjent^

Et liquidi fimiil ignis. Ut bis exordia primis Omnia^ & ip(e tener mundi concreverit orbis.

Eum durare fohim & dif eludere ner e a ponto

Cceperit, & rerum paulatim fumere Jormas. Virg. Ecl. vi.

which may thus be engliflied.

He fang, how from the mighty void, in one Large ipace, collecfed were the fluid feeds Of earth, air, fea and fire ; from thefe came all.

The callow^ world became one maffive globe j The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d.

New forms fuspris’d the beauteous face of things.

The truth of this obfervation I have feen univerfally confirmed in all my travels, and innumerable inftances of it will occur to the reader throughout thefe difcouiies. I defign another time profeifedly to treat of it in a phi- lofophical way. But confequent to this dodtrine it is that we have fo large a quantity of this marfliland in the middle of the eaftern fhore of England, feeming as if made by the walhings and eluvies of the many rivers that fall that wav, fuch as the Welland, the Witham, the Nen, the Oufe great and little, together with many other ftreams of inferior note. Theie all empty themfelves into the great bay fjrmed between the Lincolnflnre wolds and cliffs of Norfolk» called by Fto.emy Mentaris ajluarium, as rightly

corrected

I.

5

ITER

corrected by Mn Baxter, feeing it is compofed of the mouths of fo many rivers ; Meni, or Manf, fignifying oflium in the Britifh language. Behde the great quantity of high and inland country that difcharges its waters this way, even as far as Fritwell in Oxfordfhire; all the level country lies before it, extending itfelf from within fome few miles of Cambridge fouth, to Keal hills near Bolingbroke in Lincolnfhire north, about fixty miles long, known by the names of the lile of Ely, Holland and Marfhland. This country, fince the flood, I believe was much in the fame ftateasat prefent, and for its bulk the richeft fpot of ground in the kingdom j once well inha¬ bited by gentry, efpecially the religious. I apprehend the more inland part of it, the Ifle of Ely, Deeping Fen, &c. was not in diftant ages in fo bad a condition as now, becaufe the natural drainage of it was better, before the fea had by degrees added fo much folid ground upon the coafts.

In this country I have obferved abundance of old Welfli words left among Hollani», us ; and I am perfuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough.

It fignifies no more than fait or marfli land, fuch as is gained from the fea ; and to this day v/e call the marfhes adjoining to, and fometime overflowed by the fea, fall marjhes. Likewife upon the fea fliore they formerly made fait in great abundance. The hills all along upon the fea bank, the remains of fuch works, are ftill called fait hills : fuch are at Fleet, Holbech, Golberton, Wainflet,* 5cc. Many names of rivers and roads, thence derived, remain ftill, fuch as Salters Lode, Salteney Gate, &c. Halit in the Britifli is falfus, fait, as xm in the Greek is mare, the fea 3 and moft evidently borrowed from the Britifli, becaufe of its moft notorious quality. The adjoining part of this country in Norfolk, is called marfh land, in the very fame fenfe: fo is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, v/here our Cimbric anceftors once lived. In the Cimbric Cherfonefs, now Denmark, is Halland, a divifion of the country by the Saxons called Halgo land. Vid. Spelman’s Glaflary, voce Scirmges heal. Holfatia, Holftein, &c. and our Holdernefs in Yorkfliire, muft thus be underftood. Hence the ifle of Ely too is denominated, the very word hell being falfugo in the Britilh.

This, in the moft antient Britifli times, was as much marfli land as our wapentake of Elho is now, which acknowledges the fame original j hoe fignifying a parcel of high ground.

We may be allured that this whole country was well inhabited by the p.^n antient Britons, and that as far as the fea coafts, efpecially the illets and utants the higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the rivers, or though Britons. not imbanked above the reach of the fpring tides ; for the nature of this place perfedlly anfvvered their guflo, both as affording abundant pafturage lor their cattle, wherein their chief fuftenance and employment confifted, and in being fo very fecure from incurfion and depredations of war and troublefome neighbours, by the difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity of tumuli, or barrows, in all thefe parts 3 fcarce a parifli without one or more of them. They are generally of a very con- fiderable bulk, much too large for Roman 3 nor has any thing Roman been difcovered in cutting them through 3 though, a few years ago, two or three were dug quite away near Bofton, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, or to mend the highways. I guefs thefe were the high places of .worfliip among our Cimbrian predecelfors, purpofely caft up, becaufe there

C are

* At Hall, by Infpruck, falt-rocks, fays Mr. Addifon in Ids Italian Travels.

6

I T E II 1.

are no natural hills in thefe parts ; and we knov^ antiquity affefted places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, fome are places of fepulture, efpe- cially fuch as are very frequent upon the edges of the high countries all around, looking dov/n upon the fens. Hither feem to have been carried the remains of great men, whofe habitations were in the marfhy grounds, who chofe to be buried upon higher ground than where they lived j as is the cafe all over England ; for the timiuU are commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over a valley, where doubtlefs their dwellings were.

Romans. But when the Romans had made confiderable progrefs in reducing this ifland into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work of laying dov/n the great military ways j then I fuppofe it was, that they caft their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and projedled The the draining it. In the reign of Nero, in all probability, they made the

Hermen Hcymen Streety^ as now called by a Saxon word equivalent to the Latin biRr-Ei. ciji a militaris. That this was the hill, feems intimated by the name, in that it has retained what is but a common appellative of fuch

TAB.LVI. roads. This noble work, taking in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from the fouthern ocean, through London, to the utmoft bounds of Scotland. This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs direcily north and fouth. x4nd another argument of its early date, drawn from three remarkable particularities, I have obferved in travel¬ ling upon it, and which diow it w^as begun before that notable people had a thorough knowledge of the geography of the bland. One is, its deviation welfward as it advances towards thefe fens from London : another is, the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln weflward into Yorkshire, out of the principal ftem going to the Humber; a third is, that it is double in Lincolndiire. Of thefe I diali fpeak again when we come to the follow¬ ing Jter Romanum. Now we will only conhder fuch part of it as has relation to the country we are upon ; and that is the road going from Caller by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is undoubtedly Roman, and which firil occafioned the draining this fenny tradl, and furcly more antient than that which goes above Stanford, and along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reafoning depends upon the manner of the road itfeif, and upon that other great work which accompanies it, called the Cardikcy equally to be afci ibed to the fame authors. This road is nearer the firit intention of a meridian line than the other: but, when they found it carried them tlirough a low country, where it perpetually needed repara¬ tion, and that they mull: necelfarily decline welfward to reach Lincoln, they quitted it, and liruck out a new one, more wefterly, that diould run altogether upon better ground. This, if we have leave to guefs, v/as done alter the time of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who With great induflry and courage had extended and fecured the whole province as far as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to complete the work in the bell manner, being perfect malfers of the country, and ol its geography : and this road was for the ready march of their armies and provifions to iuccour tliofe northern frontiers. But it feems as it they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street as far as Lincolnlhire,-^'' efpeciaily that eafieni branch, or original Item, of which we

are

* Ciefar calls Arminius a German general, whofe proper name was Harman, or Herman, wliich lignifies in that language the General of an Army.

t The 6th of Auguft, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale coming from Peterborough. 1 Itaicl at the Roman road, tm that high hill, tliey have lately afrelh plowed up fome of the Jieath. It is furprizing to lee how thick the tollil fiielis lay juft under tJie furface, turned to ftone ; cockles, inufcles, bivalves, whdks, and many more. I ineafurcd the adventitious turf giovvn over the Roman road : at a breach, it is ahnoft fix inches.

Ocelum prom.

V\

v'^^Z-f/

r."'

'f ■ ^ i ■

■ '

• !

‘ Iti '

‘-fr’..

^ x. . .y '■■ '■-

■V;

. ... i,

■■' I . '•-■• . ■ '• '■

r •.'••>'%? iM( • ’ ■ • •

■ iV>y'

ITER

I.

7

are treating, and that as early as the reign of Nero, and at the fame tirne made the Cardike. I fhall give you my further reafons for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjedture can be expedted in fuch matters.

The road which we fuppofe the original ftem of the Hermen Street goes in a diredl line, and full north and fouth from Durobrivae, or Cafter, to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is manifeft, that if it had been carried further in that diredl ion, it would have pafl'ed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where it is not fordable. It parts from the prefent and real Hermen Street at Upton, a mile north of Cafter; but this is continued in a ftrait line, which demonftrates that it is the original one : the other goes from it with an angular branching. This traverfes the river Welland at Weftdeeping, and is carried in a high bank acrofs the watery meadows of Lolham bridges.'^ Thefe are numerous and large arches made upon the road, to let the waters pafs tlirough, taken notice of by the great Camden as of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman : then it crofles the Glen at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’s- gate, via regia) to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many in pofleftion of Jof. Banks, jun. efq.) fo to Fokingham and Sleaford. It is now called Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a famous old drain, called Cardike.\ Mr. Morton has been very curious in tracing it out through his county, Northamptonlhire. I am forry I have not yet had opportunity to purfue his laudable example, in fmiftnng the ccurfe of it through Lincoinfhire: but as far as I have obferved it, it is marked in the map. This is a vaft artificial canal drawn north and fouth upon the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh river to Lincoln river, about fifty mile long, and by the Romans without all peradventure. It is taken notice of by ferjeant Callis, our countryman, in his readings on the fewers. That wife people, with a greatnefs of thought peculiar to themfelves, obferved the great ufe of fuch a channel, that by water carriage fhould open an inland traffic bctvreen their tvro great colonies of Durobriva; and Lindum, or Lincoln, without going round the hazardous voyage of the Eftuary : juft fuch was the policy of Corbulo in Tacitus, Annal. xi. Ne ta¬ men miles otium indueret inter Mofam Rhe?iumque trium ^ viginii millium fpatio fo[jam produxit^ qua incerta oceani evitaroitur. And left the foldiery fhould be iclle, he drew a dike for the fpace of three and twenty miles between the Maefe and the Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are avoided; which is exadfly a parallel cafe with ours. Beftdes, it is plain that by intercepting all the little ftreanis coming down from the high country, and naturally over- fiowing'our levels, it would much facilitate the draining thereof, which at this time they muft have had in view. This canal enters Lincolnftrire at Eaft- deeping, proceeding upon an exadt level, which it takes induftrioudy between the high and low grounds all the way, by Langtoft and Bafton : paffing the river Glen at Highbridge, it runs in an uninterrupted courfe as far as Kyme: beyond that I have not yet followed it ; but I fuppofe it meets Lincoln river near Wafnenburgh, and where probably they had a fort to fecure the navigation, as upon other proper intermediate places, fuch

as

* Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to Margaret countefs of Richmond, who lived at Coliiwetron, a great old houfe at Lolham, which has been moted about. At I’orphall tlie foundation of an antient tower forty foot Ljuare.

Mr. Samuel Paiker gave me, 1735, a filver Antoninus found by the Cardike on the 'back (f Peterborough minfter : the reverfe, COS. III. DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in dig¬ ging in the ruins of the minfter.

At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found.

t Cardike isBritifh: Cairs h p:d:is.

8

ITER I.

as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough, Waldram-hall, Narboroiigh, Eye antiently Ege, agger and I imagine St. Peter’s de Bargo hence owes its original : and a place called Low there, a camp ditched about, juft where the Cardike begins on one fide the river : another fuch fortification at Hor- fey bridge on the other fide the river : all thefe names point out fome antient works. It is all the way threefcore foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both fides, for the horfes that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found through its whole length, as you well know, who are poliefl'ed of many of them of different emperors. Now it feems to me highly probable that Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both of this road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of Roman induftry and judgment j and the memorial of the author of fo great a benefit to the country is handed down to us in feveral particulars j as that of Catefbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater, a ftream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where it begins, to the Nen at Dovefdale bar : likewife at Dovefdale bar comes in another ftream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank, called Catfcovc corner ; and this was flrft hinted to me by our deceafed friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late fchoolmafter of Hoibech : to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the Cardike beyond Kyme ; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the road. We may likewife upon the fame grounds conjefture that Lollius Urbicus repaired this work ; v/hence it feems that his name, though cor¬ rupted, is preferved in Lolham bridges ; for there is no town of that kind near it. Vid. Gale’s Itmerar. pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the Hermen Street without Bilhops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public fpirit. Now this road thus accom¬ panying the canal, was of great fervice to the traders, who might have an eye upon their vefiels ail the wdiile. And even after the projedtion of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full perfedfion, till the Romans left the iiland j for fuch is its advantage of fituation, that it could never w^ant water, nor ever overflow : that ftream of Catwater feems to be cut on purpofe, at leaft fcoured up, to preferve thefe ufes in drawing off the floods of Peter- burgh river into the Nen, if its proper channel was not fufiicient. The meaning of the word Cardike is no more than Fendike : we ufe the word ftill in this country, to fignify watery, boggy places : it is of Britifli original.

I doubt not but that the Romans likewife made that other cut, between Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Fofs: the name feems to indicate it, as well as the thing itfelf ; for it is but a conTequent of the Cardike, and formed on the fame idea : fo that I fuppofe it was not originally cut, but Icoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions : then the navigation was con¬ tinued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and this was very ufeful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other way they might come from Huntingdon.

The 2cth of Odlober, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out- fkirts of Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the flte of the old priory, whole ruins are juft vifible: it bounds the park entirely on the ten fide, and is very perfedl thereabouts ; the high-country ftreams from Dunfton, and others, running along it. We faw where it eroded a marfhy valley, and reached theoppofite high ground in its courfe to Wafhenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preferved, remarkably good water.

That

9

ITER I.

That part of the Carclike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be cleanfed by bifhop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly probable that the Romans called our Cardike Foja^ which happens to be prefer ved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent.

The Fofsdike in being in Edward the Confeffor’s tirne. Vide Camden, JSIottingham.

Cardike runs clofe by Thurlby town end.

The marquis of Lindfey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus ; the reverfe, genio pop. rom. found at Grimsthorp.

Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me flie once had many Roman coins, from a great parcel found at or near Sleford.

The 1 8th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eaftern branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for ^bout three miles fouthward. I obferved that it went not to Sleford town direftly, but to the old houfe of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Huffey ’s (attainted for treafon in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We faw by the way, on the eaft fide the road, a mile or more fouth of Sle^ford, an old work, fquare, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road ; the earth of the vallum thrown on both lldes.

But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce and travelling, without they fet proper Rations or manfions for the reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly tve find the diftance between Cafter and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at proper intervals for lodging ; thefe are Sleaford and Stanfield : the original names of them are in irrecoverable filence, but the eternity of the Romans is inherent. At Sleaford they have found many Roman coins, efpecially of Sleaford the Conflantine family and their wives, .about the caftle and the fpring- Ro. town. head a little above the town. It is probable that Alexander, the bifliop of Lincoln, built his work upon the fite of a Roman citadel. Befide, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from the fen country by Brig-end caufeway, and at the interfedtion of thefe two roads the old town Rood. At Stanfield, which is a little village near Burn, they find daily the foundations Stanfield of buildings, innumerable coins and other antiquities, of v/hich yourfelf town. and our friend Mr. John Hardy have a good quantity. Thefe are chiefly dug up in a clofe called Blackfield, from the extraordinary richnefs of the ground. It Rands half a mile oR' the road upon elevated ground, whence you may fee Spalding, BoRon, and the whole level : it is now only of fome note for a good chalybeat fpring.

I lhall rehearfe a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we will defcend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains feveral antiquities hereabouts.

The fpring-head at Bourn, near the caRle belonging to them, is remark¬ able for its largenefs and quicknefs.

D

Duke

IO

I.

I' TEE.

* Duke OHac, 960, in the time of Edgar, fays Ingulfus, p. 67* falfly firnamed De Wake I in the Life of Hereward.

Goda=Walt. Mant.

I

fEalph E. ofl' -

Hereford, fir- |

named Scalre. :|;Morcar, Lord of Brun, fecond fon of Algar earl of Leicefter. I I V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28. §

Roger, Lord 7 Leofric = Edina, great grand-daughter of Ollac. Vita Hereward. In- of Brun 1060. y j gulf. p. 67.

I

IjHereward thefa- ) =Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his time, and mous outlaw j j did many notable exploits. He was nephew to Brando, abbot of 1 Peferbuigh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking.

Hugh Evermue, lord 7 = I of Deping and Brun. 5 I

heirefs.

Ingulph. p. 67.

Richard

'* Ofiac, ambaflador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons, anno 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witnefs to a charter of Bertulf ’s to Croyland abbey. Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament held at Kingdbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum, and near where Offa had built tlie inonaftery to St Alban. I iuppofe Ofiac, often mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others, to be Ofiac, in the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Oful in the government of Northumberland, by king Pdred conftituted. His hand is at king Edred’s charter to Croyland, anno 948 ; to that of king Edgar, in 966 ; and to that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger de Hoveden, p. 243. Ofiac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin, fays Rog. de Hoveden, defeended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls and brothers, wlio received the Ifle of Wight from their uncle, king Cerdie, and Cinvic his fon, their coufin.

t Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, fon to Goda, filler to king Edward : he is buried at Peter¬ borough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was coufin to him. Earl Rodulf was fon to Goda. Wil¬ liam Malmlbury, p. 45. Z». Earl Rolf was one of king Edward’s admirals againft earl Godwin,

J Morcar had thefe manors following, in the time of Domefdav book: Colftewrde (Colfler- worrh) Bafingheham, Shillington, Cherchebi (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Caftre, Cotes, Barewe, Strouftone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredefthorp, Wes-Bitham, Boitone, Brune, and Stapleford.

Bodebi belonged of riglit to Crowland.

§ Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmfbury calls him, fon of Elgar, or Algar, p. 46. b. was made earl of Northumberland ; Toflin, fon of Earl Godwin, lofing it for his feverity ; and at the end of king Edward’s life, Toflin coming out of Flanders to invade the coafts of Northuinbeiland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the forces of Morcar, and his brother Itdvvin. I'oftin goes into Scotland, there meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred fiiips upon an invafion : they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland, furprife the two bi others overjoyed at their late vidtory, and fliut them up in York city till king Harold relieved them.

Toflin, fon of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned out, by infllgatlon of his brother, at the end i f Edward the ConfclTor’s life, and Morchar made earl in his head Morcar, and his elder brother Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and when Harold the king was fiain by William the Conqueror, offered themfelves to the people, who might chule one of them tor their king. Harold and they were eoufins ; and they were at London at the time of the battle of Haflings; but William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed both in getting the battle, and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards they diflurbed the Con¬ queror by little inroads and vexations, and were fometimes taken prifoners ; vet he pardoned them, and married them to his relations. At length they were fiain perfidioufiy by their own men, and the king was much grieved at their death,

[1 Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders.

I

ITER

I.

1 1

Richard de Rulos=only daughter. Ingulph. anno i x 14. and Petr. Blefens.

Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of Deping | priory, ob. 1171, Monajl. Anglican, Vol. I. p. 469. Vol. 11. >-=AdheldIs p. 23, -York’s Heraldry, 191. j I

anno 1133.

Hugh de Wac=Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocefter. I Monafi. Angl. VqI. 1. p. 462. Vol. 11. 236.

Baldwin lord Wakec=

Roger us.

he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney abbey, ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugilale’s Baronage.

Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in Cumberland := Allcia= Jofcelyn de Styvecle, lord of

he died the 20th of July, 1224, buried at Harombel, a caftle in Gafcoign,

Great Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquifit, 38. H. Ill 2. Vin¬ cent ABC, N. 43 p. 891.

Baldwin lord Wake : = Ifabella, daughter and heir of Wil. Bruer=Beatrix de Vanne, concu

he died 1213. Dug- dale’s Baronage.

lord of Torbay, fon of Henry de Bruer.

bine of Reginald earl of Cornwall.

Hugh Wake, lord of Wake, =Johanna, heirefs of Nicholas d’Eftotvil^

Lydel and Brun : he died^

1233- J

lord of Cotingham, who died 1220 : f =Hugh BIgod lord Ihe died on St. Ambrofe’s day 1260. T juftice of England. Mon. Angl. Vol. 11. p. 348. J

Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun,^ Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Feed. I. p. 493. Lydel and Cotingham, died f

prid. non. Feb. 1281, mentioned T —Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery in Rymer’s Foedera I. p. 777* J _ ^

Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him the manors of Deeping and Blil- worth, Northamptonfhire.

John de Wake : — Johanna he died 4Ap.

1304.

St. John lord St. John — Mirabella == Thomas Afpal.

f—

Sir Tho. Wake, knight==Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir f— 1— ^ John Patefhul, knight.

Edmund Plantagenet of Wood-_Margaret, After Thomas de Wake) — ^l^nch, daughter of

n I 1 rT7--_^ . » t > Hpnrv k Qrif^o-pripf-

ftock, earl of Kent, third fon of king Ed. 1

and heir. ob. 4 July 1343- )

_ he founded the ab

bey of Hautemprife, in Yorklhire, then removed it to Cotingham 1322. The original feal of that abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, efq. Somerfet herald, t 1 * r w ’ V. f and was engraven by the Antiquarian fociety, London, • axe, o . .p.

Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancafter.

Sir Thomas Holland, one of) ==Joan the fair the founders of the order > maid of Kent, of the Garter. j

r f J.V ( = E

Wil. Montacute, earl of Salifbury. Edward the black prince.

There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. fuch as Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot pf Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Berefham

and

12

1 T E R I.

and Stow, of the heirs of Flugh Wake the fame year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac, witnelies to a charter 1152. Rymer’s F&^deray I. p. 1 2. From Sir The. Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Patefnalj is defeended his grace the prefent archbilhop of Canterbury.

Not lo/ig fince fome BritiOi inffruments of brafs called celts, arrow-heads,, and bits of bridles of the fame metal, were found at Aye near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I faw four celts and a brafs fpear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female or recipient kind : they were bought by biihop Kennet, and are now in the gentlemen’s fociety at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there, when the Romans drove them northward: there has been fome great work of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brafs feal, a man blowing a horn, the legend jo/m Sodeburi, now in the hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a Rone crofs now denroliOied : the infeription on it I have TAB. XI. inferted in the Plate of Croifes : I faw the Rump of it remaining not long fince : hard by has been an old caRle at Bitham. GrimRhorp, the pleafant feat of the Duke of AncaRer : the park is very large and beautiful ; in the middle of it Rood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1 147. fome fmall ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual horie-race, is extremely delightful.* In Hakunby church upon a Rone I read this infeription, ,

3IQC fuit BeRcr C|)oma0 U TBrunn t)ocitatu0.

Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy com¬ munity: now an old ruinous feat of the earls of Lincoln.

Trekingham, fo called, as fome will have it, from a fanciful Rory of three Danifh kings there buried ; round the font in the church is this inferip¬ tion, + maria gratia p, ll» t* Upon a tombRone in the church¬ yard this,

HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES ONDAM DNS DE TRIKINGHAM.

St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end caufeway is Rill left, turned int6 a manfion houfe, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed with lands to maintain the caufeway : a legacy highly to be commended. At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, fo called from the hall or teat of the lord of the manor : in the former is Helpringham, which I fup- |)ofe no more than Hak parva ingbamy the termination being very common in towns hereabouts.

Holland Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards ujbrtnkid by gaming this vaR trad; of fen-land, the Lincolnlhire levels, by fecuring it tu \omans. freRi water of the high countries in that noble cut called Cardike ;

we

* 1 he Duke of Ancafter, 1726, fhowed me a large brafs Hadrian, but defaced, dug up in his garden, near \X\q vnnulus at the end: he fays moie coins have been found about the ftone pits in the park. That tumulus perhaps was the burial 'placc of Grime, who denominated the place Gnmsthorp, or G lime’s farm, probably fome great Saxon, or Dane,

1 ( bferve there are a few more tumuli upon hills heieabouts, as one on the heat't by Corby. . I think the country hereabouts extremely line and delightful : an excellent kind of ftone is dug up in Grimfthor]) pa'k ; and here and there a vein of good marble of a darkilh colour : the blueiih marble lies uppermoft in a bed of ah ut four foot ; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent whitifti ftone, with reddiih veins where thev can cut blocks of any dimenlions. Anno 1731, in ’digging in the court yard, they f und an old brafs leal, a coat of arms, two bars ermine ; the epigiaphe, as well as 1 could make it out, thus ;

SeeL. DGS. OBLIGTCIONS. DG. RCG.

ITER

I.

we muft imagine their next care was to render it fafe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along upon the fea coafts : this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is faid to be made by Julius Csefar and his foldiers ; as if they had knowledge of its being a Roman work : at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt they made gotes and fluices as at prei'ent, which was an invention of Ofiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19. We may well fuppofe it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus, fcarce fully accomplifhed before: poflibly in Severus his time, which feems not obfcurely hinted at by Herodian, III. Sed in primis cura habuit pontibus occupare paludes^ ut Jiare in tuto inilites pojfint atque in folido praliari. Siquidem Britannia pleraque loca Jrequefitibus oceani alluvionibus paludefcunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipji natant excurjantque ad ilia ufque demerji. But he had it in his particular care to make paffes over the fens, that the foldiers might ftand firm and fight upon hard ground ; for many places in Britain are marfhy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the inhabitants will fwim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To which defcription no place fo well correfponds.

That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the following inftances will fufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near Wifbech, an urn full of Roman brafs money was taken up, not far from a tumulus of which the comrhon people have ftrange notions, affirming that they frequently fee a light upon it in dark winter nights. Dr. Malley has many of the coins ; they are of the later empire. There is another piece of high ground near it, where have been buildings. Dr. Maffey fays there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At Gedney hill feveral Roman coins have been found ; fome of Antoninus are in your colledfion. In the fame hamlet, about two mile north of Southea bank, is a pafture called the High Doles, being a fquare doubly moted, where ancient foundations have been dug up, and fome Roman coins. Another like fquare fo moted is in the parifli of St. Edmund’s, about the fame diftance from the faid bank, where the like matters have been difcovered. Afwic grange in Whaplodedrove parifli is a high piece of ground, fquare and moted about : in this and near it many Roman coins have been dug up, and urns, which I have feen 3 fome coins in your col¬ lection. This is near Gatfcove corner j and it was Mr. Britain’s notion that Catus made this work among many others as cajlella to fecure the pofl'elfion of the country : thefe lie as it were in a line, on the mofl: foutherly part of Elho. In the parifh of Fleet near Ravenfclow, about 1 698,* upon a piece of high ground where buildings have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large urn with letters round it, full of Roman coins, -f- about the quan¬ tity of three pecks, covered with an oak board : the urn he broke in pieces : they were of brafs piled edgeways, moflly about the time of Gallienus and the thirty tyrants as called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus, ViClorinus, Caraufius, AleCtus, &c. I have feen vafl: numbers of them, and have fome by me: many are in your collection. Near this place runs a low channel, quite to Fleet haven, which probably then was the chief outlet of the waters into the fea. Mr. Lenton found fome fliip-timber upon it with rufty nails, probably of fome Roman barge. None of thefe coins were lower than the Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was made before their time. In the fame latitude, and in the next parifli, Holbech,:J; in a paflure called Any-

R totts,

* Later, about 1701 or 1702.

t At Grantford, by March, 1732, feveral Roman urns found.

J Holbech feems to have been Holbergh, as Wifbech Wousbergh.

14

Roma rf)ads then

tofts, in niy tenure, is a like fquare of high ground, where rubbiflT. of build¬ ings and coins have been found ; it is moted likev^^ife : not long fince a labourer, fcouring up a pit in the mote, took up an urn now in my poilellion. At Giggleshurn, in cafting up a ditch, were many Roman coins found : we may reafonably conjefture Moulton hall was fuch another place originally: and in a field not far from thence, called Woods, near Ravens- bank, three mile fouth of Moulton church, upon plowing, feveral Roman urns and vellels were found, of fine white and red earth ; fome of them were brought to Mr, Hardy. At Spalding, Roman antiquities have been found, particularly cifierns ; of which fome accounts in the Adfs of the Royal Soc. N° 279. and there was a P^oman calfle there, as I conjecture, on the north fide or the town, not far from the river on the right hand of the great road to Boftoii, the fquare form of the ditch yet remaining. Thefe places, with Ibme other of like nature, make another line of fortrefics through the mid¬ dle of the country, pai allel to the prefent towns. I have been told that at Theopliiius Grant’s houfe in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt, aquedudfs of clay, one let into another, have been dug up 7^ and that in the feadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brafs fvrord was lately found, which feem to be Roman. Thus far in South Flolland. At Bofton, about 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the fchool-houfe : near it fome hewn liones formed a cavity, in which was an urn with alhes, another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of an odd figure, in my polfefiion. Som.e time before then, in Mr. Brown’s garden at the Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full of red earth and bones. A like one I have feen notv in Sir Hans Sloan’s mufeum, unqueftionably Roman.

N As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no • doubt but according to their cufiom they drew feveral roads acrofs it : but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exadt account of them : fuch is the nature of the ground, having no folid materials, that they would be prefentjy wore away without more conflant reparations than the inhabitants , pradtife : yet I have little doubt in fuppofing one of their ways was drawn trom the northern high country about Bolingbroke by Stickford, Stickney, Sibfey, and fo to Bofeon river about Redilonegote, where it paifed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myfelf that feveral parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the flraitnefs and by the gravelly bottom : from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably fo, being laid with a very large bed of gravel : and juft a mile from the river is a ftone, now called the Mile-frone, ftanding in a quadrivium i it is a large round ftone like the frujlum of a pillar, and very properly a lapis miiliaris. From Kirkton I imagine the road went to Donington, where it met tlie great and principal road of the country, which is drawn from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a ftrait one. It is certain that there is fuch a road from Grantcheftcr, which was a Roman town a mile, above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham : thence another goes acrofs the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme towards Wifbech j and it was near this road that the urn with coins firft mentioned w^as found : and anno i y^o a Roman urn full of coins was found at the fame place ■, they were of iilver, and very fair. Mr. Beaupre Bell, a curious gentleman, has many Pvoman coins found near this Roman road by Emney ; feveral of Caraufius un- deferibed. Wiibech probably was a Roman ftation, and their c aftl founded upon an older foundation. I fuppofe this road palled over

Wifbech

* Anijo 1727, at Walpcle, hy the fide of Wifioech river, abundance of Roman aquedudts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &;c. and Mr. Colburn, minifter there, fent me an aque¬ duct.

I T E II

Wifoech river above the town towards Guyhurn chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscrofs, there entering oiir country : from thence that it went in a ftrait line to Spalding, by which means rnoft of thofe fquare forts we have mentioned in Elho, where Roman antiquities were difcovered, together with moft of the fouthern hamlets, will be found to be fituate near or upon it; fuch as St. Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhili chapel, Highdoles there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Afwic grange, St. Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel : whether any traces of it can now be found or no, I cannnot fay ; but the villages thereabouts feem ffrongly to favour the conjefture. Suppofing it fadt, I Ihould not be furprifed if it now be laid perfectly level with the furface of this fenny foil, feeing I have obferved the like appearance of a Roman road when carried acrofs a meadow in the high countries, and which was com- pofed of a bed of gravel loo foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by Biceffer, of which I Brail in a following page give an account ; and this of ours I fuppofe only made of the earth of the country thrown into a bank, becaufe it was impofiible to get miore durable materials.

From Spalding, according to my fentiments, this road went towards Herring bridge (t^^ word retaining fome fem.blance of antiquity) upon Surflet river, fo along the divifion between the wapentakes of Kirton and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and CreiTy-hall, to the end cf Brig-end caufeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end caufeway has all the requi- fites that can afcertain it to be a Roman work, behrg ftrait and laid with a folid bed of flone : the prefent indeed is repaired every year, but we have much reafon to think the firR projection of it through this broad morafs was no lefs than Roman. From thence it went to Sleford; then it feems to have gone acrofs the heath, and to have fallen in with the great Hermen ftreet at a remarkable place called Biard’s leap : from thence polli- bly it was carried, or was defigned to be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbrough- ton over the Witham to Crocolana upon the fofs-way ; then over the Trent into Nottinghamfnire, where it anfwers in a line with the road to Tuxford andWorkfop; and fo on perhaps to the Irifn fea, whereby it would become a great parallel to the Watling ftreet running acrois the kingdom, as it does, from fouth-eaft to north-weft. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another road came from Banovallum, or Horn caftle, to the eaft of the river Bane fouthward by les Yates, and fo crolfed the Witham by Chapel- hill and the Cardike fomewhere about Kyme : or elfe crofted the Vvhtham at the Hermitage, fo went by Swinfned north end to Donington : this prin¬ cipal road we fpeak of on the other end feems to go from Ely by Soham. and Bury to the German ocean. I am not adiamed to offer my conjedlure to the curious, however Bender its foundation may be, if only as a hint for a future fearch : but it feems to me very probable, that if it was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in part mianifeftiy done it. I conceit it crofl'es the Icening ftreet at Ikefworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium ; but with that country of Suf¬ folk I am at prefent perfecfly unacquainted. Return we to Holland.

Befides this great road, I think we need not fcruple to alfert Tliat now called Ravenlbank to be another, going eaft and well, through the heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode fome miles upon it, where it is now extremely ftrait and broad. We have been informed that it is adlually in fome old writings called Romans Bank ; it is well known the WelBi pronounced Roman Rhiiffam^ and our EngliBr word ruffian is from this fountain. Among the WelBi the letters m and v are

equivalent.

I.

i6 ITER

equivalent, to which /’is perfeftly alike; maiir and ’vaur is great, and many more: lb that raven, and riiffen, is the lame word ; and hence no

doubt came ramblmg, roving, and rommg, as an ignominious appellative of fiich as thought every country better than their own ; for fuch to our anceftors feemed the Romans, that fcarce left any corner of the known world impervious to their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with them as an impetuous torrent, with a mod: glorious and invin¬ cible perfeverance. Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running eaft and weft nearer the fea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is originally Roman ; in fome places, as about Fleet, it retains the name of Haregate, which is equivalent to via militaris when fpoken by our Saxon progenitors. T bus the main road and thefe two lelfer ones feem fufficiently to anfwer this purpofe as to Elho : it feems to me, that when the Romans made the many forts all along the eaftern Ihore, to guard agaiuft the Saxons, that this bay was provided for by five, two upon the edges of the high country, and thi •ee upon the rivers ; Brancafter in Norfolk, Burgh on Lincolnfhire fide ; Wilhech,* Spalding, and Bofton, upon each river of the fenny tra6f.

Having given you then all the authentic or conjecfural memoirs that have in general occurred to my refleftion upon the moft ancient ftate of this country, I ftiall proceed to other particularities, nearer our own times, through every parifli ; only firft take notice in Ihort of a wonderful appear¬ ance in nature all over this country, and which is common to all fuch like Antediluvi- upoii the globe, as far as my informations reach : that is, the infinite quan- an trees. tities of fubtei'i'aneous trees, lying three or four foot deep, of vaft bulk and different fpecies, chiefly fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches reach fo near day as to break their ploughs, for fo I have heard them complain about Crowland : about Kyme and Billingay they have dug up fome boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.’l' Many people will think that this is nothing but the effedt of jiarticular floods, and that this country was once a foreft, and not long fmce difaffbrefted. This country was once taken into the foreft of Kefte- ven by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view (ft extending their power, and difaffbrefted foon after at the inftance of the prior of Spalding : yet it is true of Nalfaburg hundred only, in Northamp- tonlhire. But in my apprehenfion, as to the matter before us, fuch confine their notions to very fcanty bounds : an univerfal phaenomenon requires a more dilated folution, and no lefs than that of the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occafion to be more copious another time ; at prefent I remember a paflage in Paufanias’s Attics toward the end j fpeak- ing of an ebeny ftatue of Archigetes, “ I have heard, (fays he) from a man “ of Cyprus very Ikilful in medicinal herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no “ fruit, nor has it any ftock expofed to the fun, only roots in the earth, “ which the Ethiopians dig up. Some of them are particularly fkilful in finding them out.” I doubt not but our author fpeaks of fubterranean trees, and that our people might ufe this timber to better ufe than burn¬ ing it.

Moft

t ^\^ifbech is called JVlfAcrch, i. e. burgh, in king Wulf here’s charier to Peierburgh. XI r. Peck s Ant. Slant, p. 21. Many Roman aquedudls dug up at VVifliech eaftle, when ip.ey built the prefent ftiuAure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me ; fuch as were found at Walpole, wnereot I have one. William the Conqueror built a cafile upon the Roman work.

X No lefs than eight canoos were found in draining Martin mere. Dr. Leigh’s Lancnjler. A ni'ifs-deer’s fkeleton found fourteen foot under ground in the fens by the river Witham,

I incoinlhire. I faw part of a mofs-deer’s horn at the Society in Peterboiough, found in the tens there.

I T E E,

1.

17

Moll: writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and moft ftrangers, have an Injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which is true but of part of it : for in the main the land is admirably good, hard, and dry ; produces excellent corn and grafs ; feeds innumerable dieep and oxen of a very large fize, and good flefh and wool 5 bears wood exti'emely well, has feveral large woods in it, fome intirely of oak of confiderable fize ; is full of hedge-rows and quickfets, and in fummer time looks like the garden of Eden : it is level, and moft delightful to travellers, whether on horfeback, or in a coach. The air indeed is moift, as being near the fea, and bordering upon the fens of the ifte of Ely : as to the firft, it is the fame upon every fea coaft ^ as to the latter, they are chiefly on the fouth fide, whence the fun for the moft part draws off the vapours from this country. Indeed this inconvenience accrues from fuch vicinity, the pro- dudfion of gnats ; to which Angelus Politianus has done fo much honour in that beautiful Greek epigram you fhowed me ; and is well guarded againft by the gentry in the ufe of netted canopies hung round their beds, which was an invention of the ^Egyptians living in a like country. Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things neceflary for the comfort of life are here in great plenty ; and vifitants ever go away with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great foul king Charles I. himfelf undertaking the glorious tafk, and others under him, had prqjedfed and made fuch ftately works of fewersy as would have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival of its name-fake beyond fea ; but the licentious times that fucceeded, gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adverfary in all things, Cromwell) an opportunity todeftroy them. I have often confidered and admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vaftnefs of their gotes and flukes : indeed I think they made many more than were ufeful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would not, like the Trojan Prophetefs, pro- gnofticate ill to my own country ; but it is not difficult to forefee, that unlefs fome projedf be taken in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley publifhed fome time ago, this vaft and rich tradl muft be abandoned to eels and wild ducks. A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the fenate of the kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands ; and if 1 have any judgement, whatever new v/orks are made, ought always to be carried eaftward only, for reafons 1 inculcated before : therefore, inftead of deriving the Welland into the Witham, as v/as his notion, I would have it brought to the Nen, and both into the Oufe at Lynn, as it was in its original and natural ftate.

Since the time of the Romans, beyond their firft bank have been many intakes, by fucceffive banks, of the bell ground in the world left by the fea, which contradis its own limits by throwing up banks of fand out of the eftuary : fo that, from time to time, the land-owners upon thefe frontiers gain feveral thoufands of acres. It is obferved, the land fo imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind it; and I doubt not but fome time the whole bay between Lincolnfliire and Norfolk (being one of our great fovereign’s nobleft chambers in his Britifli dominions over the fea, vide Seld. Mar. claiif.) wilL.’become dry land. By this means the parifhes hereabouts increafe to a huge bulk. Holbech from Dovefdale bar, where it joins to Gambridgelhire, to the limits of the fait niarihes, is near twenty miles long. The cattle bred on this ground are very large ; the flreep never have horns. Smithfield market, as now much fupported, was chiefly fet up by the inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by

F Mr.

I.

ITER

Mr. William Hobfbn, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cuft ; the London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country i to buy cattle.

In every parifh formerly were many chapels, it being impradlicable for people to come fo far to one church, though now moft of them are demo- lifhed, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England boalfs of fo many beautiful churches, having generally lofty fpires of fine fquared ftone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarfe rag full of petrified fliells of all kinds of fmall fifli, and not, as fome think, from Norway. And in no very diftant times, not a parifh without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families, who made a figure in the world : now fcarce any remains of them, but the fite of their houfes moted round, their tombs in the churches, their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance efcaped the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houfes formerly there ; and nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the old terriers, or town-books. The only houfes of note are at prefent Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parifli, lately rebuilt magni¬ ficently by Sigifmund Trafford, efq. who has likewife inclofed a con- fiderable park with a brick wail 5 and Crelfy hall in Surflet parifh, the feat of Henry Heron, efq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII.- was once entertained. The houfe was handfomely rebuilt by the prefent poOefTor’s father. Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath ; but the chapel is old, built, or licenfed at leaft, anno 1309, as an infcription over the door tells us. In it is an old brafs eagle with an infcription round it.^

Formerly, there is reafon to fuppofe, the gentry had many parks near their feats. Records in your poffefTion fhow that the prior of Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with him for the venifon in his park at Moulton ^ and in Holbech, about a mile fouth of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That fifh and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly the pigeons are noted for large and fine.

In the out-fkirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places fo called TAB II 3n incredible quantity of wild ducks, -f- moflly fent up to

London : they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals fhooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well planted with willows, fallows, ofiers, and fuch underwood. I have given a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in fliort is this : the decoy-man coming dov/n to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is covered with nets and over-fhadowed with trees, peeps through the holes in the reedy fheds, difpofed like the fcenes at the play-houfe, and joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s bread: : when he fees a fufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth of the great pond, by whiffling foftly, the tame ducks wing-ffocked, and brought up for that purpofe, fwim into the pipe covered with the nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the fheds into the water: this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait : in the mean time a dog they teach runs round the half-fheds, in and out at the holes in the bottom, which amufes the fowl fo that they apprehend no danger : when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, ftooping he goes along the fcenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rifing up fhows himfelf at the half-fcenes,

which

* The heel wherein Margaret lay, has fince been removed to a farm-houfe by the fen-fide, called Wrigbolt, where I have feen it. It Is a very old-falhioned oak bed with panels of odd emboffed work, like many we fee in old country houfes.

t Pliny fays they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy.

18

t

I

r

. /

/

which frightens the wild ducks only, the oppohte way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a fatal net ; and all this is done with¬ out any noife or knowledge of the reft of the wild ducks in the great pond } fo that the decoy-man having difpatched one pipe, goes round to execute the fame game at all the reft, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one of thefe places only.

In running over what few remarkables I have obferved in this country,

I ftiall exclude Marfli-land, becaufe in Norfolk, obferving only that their churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and ftately i that here are, too, many fuch of the tumuli. You will indulge me the liberty of giving the etymology of places all along : Cicero likes that method 5 Acad.

I. 8. verborum explicatio probatur., i. e. qua de caufa quaque ejfejit ita no¬ minata quam etymologiam appellabant : and though there be often more of pleafant fubtlety than reality in fuch matters, yet it ferves to find out and preferve fome old words in a language that otherwife are in danger of oblivion, I fhall begin with theWafhes fo much talked of, and fo terrible 57, to ftrangers, though without much reafon; if they take a guide, which is Wasi highly advifeable. The meaning is this : they are the mouths of the river Welland, called Fofsdike Wafh, and the river Oufe, called Crofs-Keys Vv^afn, running into the fea, and inclofing this country almoft round. fVafe Sax. iutum, ooje. Twice in a day, fix hours each time during the recefs of the tide, they are fordable and eafy to be palled over ; the intermediate fix hours they are covered with the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of Bofton, fon to Dr. Merret, has given a table in the Philof. Tranf. which I improved for the benefit of travellers, and is graven on a handfome copper¬ plate by my friend, Mr. John Redman : but I would have paflengers not to truft too far to the minutes in the table, becaufe at fome times of the year the tides will anticipate a few minutes, at others will be retarded, and at all times (not to fay any thing of the difference of clocks and watches) fouth-eaft winds make the tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-weft protraft them ; fo that a wife traveller, in this and all other cafes, will take time and tide by the forelock. Formerly people travelled vrhat they call the Long Wafh, between Lynn and Bofton, intirely upon the fands or fkirts of the ocean, but now quite difufed and impradlicable : there it was, that king John loft all his carriages among the creeks and quickfands.

The memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner of a bank between Crofs-Keys Wafh and Lynn, called now King’s Corner.

In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Bufby, mafter of Weftminfter Lux fchool, who has beautified the church, and founded a fchool there : he owes his education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I fuppofe the towm has its name from the general drainage of the country, which was here in one channel united : they call fuch Lades, or Lodes, to this day : this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from it (and therefore) Sutton church is of an ancient make, efpecially theSuxi ftone work of the fteeple : the upper part of the church has been built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and other vaft manors and townfliips in this country. At Tyd St. Giles, Nicholas Breakfpear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV. St. James’s chapel is built of a large fort of brick, fuch ^s I have feen no where ell€3 not Roman. Near it is Ivy-Crofs, of ftone, vc\ 2. quadrivium TAB a curious piece, upon Ravenfbank.

Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the abbots Gedj of Croyland, who had a houfe, no doubt, very ftately, on the north fide

20

I.

Flee t.

HOLBECH.

TAB. XXL

TAB. L 2d Vol.

ITER

of the church, and large poffeffions in the pariili : the upper part of the tower is of the fame date with the church, built upon older work j pro¬ bably both the work of the abbots, together with contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of the Welbys, and upon the fouth door is this infcription :

'31513 (ZBa ^31(2: E(!B£X23 3I2£^ 5l3€)^CEa*

The town feems to be derived from Gade?i-ea-, aqua ad viam : Ea is a watering place properly for cattle, and roads we flill call gates in this country.

The next paridi, Fleet, from the Anglo- Saxonic Fleot, afluarium, fluxus, dill called Fleet-Haven, is remarkable for the fteeple ftanding at a diftance from the church : from this place the family of the Fletes come, who have made a confiderable figure in the country ever fince we have any written memorials.

Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a ftrong tower and lofty fteeple, dedicate to all faints : formerly there were organs and fine painted glafs, with many coats of arms, but none left except the Flolbeches : Vert, fix efcallops argent, three, two, one. There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and flouri filing family in thefe parts : upon his fnield is his coat, Argent, two lions pafiTant gardant gules : there is a brafs infcription of a lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. C>iate p?0 auima 3Iol)annc quontiam

filiae EicparBi leake nupcr uro?i0 Ilittlefiurp que obiit jcPiii Ole menf!0 De£emb?i0 anno Oomini mccclrrrioui, cuiu0 anime piopicietur

Beil0 Smen. Here was born Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bilhop of Lincoln, who was one of the compilers of the Liturgy : here formerly flourifiied the ancient families of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, V/elby, Multon.

In the year 1 696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they found an old brafs feal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan ; a man in long robes, with two efcutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other a portcullis j the legend, tsovrabla deus oler. In the year 1698, an iron fpur with a very long fiiank was found: in my pofleliion. A remarkable rarity in nature 1 met withal, an admirable olTification in the omentmn of a fheep, white and folid as ivory. Mr. Chefelden has printed a cut of it in the fecond edition of his Anatomy. I gave it to Dr. Mead.

From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the Reformation, from anno 1453, curious remarks may be made, in

relation to prices of things, wages, fuperftitious cuftoms, old families, and the like : a fpecimen whereof I have here annexed.

(j. A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of Llolbeche fowld by Ch^ Tchewardyns of the fame acm'ding to the injunByons of the Kyjiges Magyfte.

An. dni. M. ccccc. xlvib. Flrft to Antony Heydon the try-

nite with the tabernacle - - — ^ —

It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of Nicholas and

s, d.

ii. iiii.

vi. viii.

It.

J

lO-

Li ftletuijx in Holtech Church

I

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*' y

' ' . - _ • ' V , , ■ • . .... :«

■ , Vv ■■■

; )

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ITER 1.

It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye — It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle

our lady - — r - - — —

It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony — It. to Humphry Hornefey on fygne

of

It. to Antony Heydon on other fynge and a lytyl tabernacle It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas

Bekete — - - - -

It. to Wm. Davy the fygne whereon the plowghe did ftond-

It. to John Thorpe a chyft in St. Jamys chapell -

It. to Lincone howld woode - r- ' — - r-

It. to Nicholas Fofter the banke that the George ftoode on

It. to Antony Heydon ij alters — - - r

It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles - — -r-

It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle - -

It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate -

It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapoftyls coats and otl;ier raggs

It. to Henry Elinan for vii baner clothes - -

It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe - - — r

It. to Smithes on pece of howlde faye - — — — ^

It. to Richerd Richerfon the croffe and other gydys — It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys — — — r

It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of Coloyrre It. to Humphry Hornefey the canypye that was born over the

facrament - - —

It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd clothes

It. to Antony Heydon on wood candleftyke — -

It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll beU — - - -

It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll hell - -

It. to Wm. Davy fpr the tabernacles that ftode at the end of the hy alter ^ — , * *

/. s. d.

«Sot. ini. ii.

nil.

s,

iiii.

iii.

d.

mi.

11.

11.

vm.

ix.

11.

iiii.

V.

Yi.

Vlll.

A. jD. in. ccccc xlvii.

It, to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron —

It. to Robt. Gyffbn for ij barrs of iyron — - -

It. to Antony Heydon xx fcore and x hund. of Jatyn at iii*

and xi d. the Ico^re — r— — — - -

It. to Richerd Richerfon ij lytyll tabernacles -

It. of John Suger for the chyrche Ipnd — r — -

It. of the hnrial of Mr. Byllylby -rr — —

Jt. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon - — —

It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys glide - —

Jt. for on bell , — -r - - — /. xviii.

It. for feyten veftrnents and trafhe in the cheft in trinete

quere fold to Davy - - -

,It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows — _ _ _

It., of Wfn. Calow the younger for eyrne — ; — _ _ _

/. s. d,

Sm. totalis xxviii. iiii. iiii. ob.

G

vi.

XX.

vi.

XX.

viii.

xvi.

iiii.

iiii.

viii.

viii.

ii.

xviii,

iiii.

iiii.

ix.

iii. iii. iiii. iiii.

XX.

Yfh-

iiii.

vi.

vi.

	nil.
V.
Ixix.	xi. oh.
	viii.
ii.	viii.
iii.	iiii.
	iii.
ii.
ii.
Xxxiii.	iiii.
	xvi.
XX.	More

I.

33 ITER

More fuperftitious ornaments of the church were fold in queen Eliza¬ beth’s time, 1560.

From this book I extrafted the following catalogue of the Minifters

of the parilh.

John Clerk chaplain. - - Anno

John Rifceby vicar.

1450.

1460.

Thomas George chaplain then.

Robert Jelow. - r - -

William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus. — Sir John Welby prieft.

Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar. -

Baxter. ■ — ^

1469.

1474.

obiit 1496. 1508.

Ds. Neel capellanus.	,
Richard Wytte. - -	- 1520.,'
Sir John Scapull. - -	- ob. J524.
Sir Robert Manning. -	155^-
Sir Thomas WeH. — —	— ' ^561-
Thomas Gybfon precher.
Othoneel Bradbury. — —	1600.
Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech.	- 1610.
Henry Williamfon. — ; —	■ - 1630. ^ :
John Grante. — ' —	— 1633.
John Bellenden. — —	- 1640.
John Pymlowe. — — - —	— 1647.
John Pymlowe. ‘ — ' ‘	— 1687 .
George Arnett. — —	- 1720. .

1529, a new 'organ coft 3

1. 6s. 8d. The organ 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn

in

the

epi.

church was and Henry

In

taken down 1568. Anno Nele of Holbech, gave the faints bell. Another guild of St. Thomas ; another of our Lady. The veftry on the fouth fide of the choir was taken down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary at Holbech hurp, near the ancient feat of the Littleburys j Handing 1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas : another in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river fide, dedicated to St. Peter. About 1719, I faw many corpfes dug up in the yard at making a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus Chrifti Hood near Baijey pit, where is now a houfe once belonging to Mofes Stukely, who owned the eftate thereof. An hofpital founded by John de Kirkton, in his own melfuage, by licence of king Ed. Ill dat. Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people r he endowed it with feveral lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland, who by licence per¬ mitted the fame to be annexed to this hofpital of All Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20I. This Hood, as I imagine, where now is the Chequer inn, over againft the church. I remember the old Hone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down when rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved Hones were laid in the foundation of the houfes he built by the river fide at the bridge. See Dugdale’s Monajiicon,. A free-fchool was founded here, about 1669, by George Fatmer, efq. who endowed it with lands, which with others fince given are n'ow worth about 50I. per annum ; which I am bound in gratitude riot to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the fifty-four bounds of this parilh,

R.itluUus do Holbech officium cuftod, rehgnat, & refumit locum focii ap. yEd. Petri Caiir. 1349.

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[^' ' '

. ': '■ 4'

J:

V

M

Jk -

L 1^' a ?Htr? ^2^/// //u 2^/1 7 /e, S^?77pcr7 '77 ?7

.yij ??0 ?''i777t7(7 7^t/l7/ttj> //• &^/7ki7^7/ /'/(^2,

E I

I.

>3

paying rates, acres 6234; in the rnadh, acres 6532 ^ and fince added for the laft intake, acres 170. The old crofs in the market-place was pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, obtained a

market and fair to Elolbech, 31 061. 37 Hen. III. at Windfor, and TAB II.

probably built that crofs. 2d Vol.

Q^aplode,. called anciently Capellade, i. e. Capella ad Ladam s. Jluvium, ^ ^ has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of Croyland : the tower ftands on the fouth fide. In the upper and fouth windows are thefe coats of arms. Barry of fix azure and argent ; Azure, a bend gules, charged with three rofes argent; Argent, two lions palfant gardant gules, Littlebury.

In the eaft window of the north chapel, Littlebury^ and Or, a feli'e between two chevronels gules ; and Sable, a fret argent, Harrington : Azure, on a bend gules, three rofes argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation of this church. Here is a large monument of the Irbys.

GENEALOGY of MOU.LTON.

Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbcch, obtained a market for Fleet, 9 Jo. 1

Robert Romley,'®= daughter of Wm, Mefchines, lord of Coupland.

Win. Duncanfon =. Alice, heirefs.

Hugh de Morvilc, lord of Burgh upon Sands, chief forefter of Cumberland.

I

Richard de Lucv 7 — Ada, cohelrefs Thomas -de Multon obtained a market and fair for lord Egremont i I I Holbech, 37 Hen. III.

. Amabilis, heirefs = Lambert de Multon, 1270.

Thomas de Multon, lord of I Burgh, in Cumberland.

Thomas de Multoii, 31 Ed.' I. 1303.' Thomas de Multon ^Maud de Vaulx, heirefs , . • lord of Bursrh, > 1 o*" Gillesland, daughter,

; . 20 Ed. I. 3 ^ Hubert de Vaulx.

Thomas de Multon, lord EgremouU .

Thomas de Multon, lord 7 C daughter of Rich, de Burgh, Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. IL 3 ~ 4 Ulton.

John de Multon, lord Egre- Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh, J

mont, ob. f. p. 9 Ed. HI. Gillefland and Holbech, 2r Ed. I. >_Ifabel.

and 2 Ed. II. Inqwfit. poji mortem. J j

Ranulf de Dacre, lord of ? .. ^ • r ^ r ,

Drumbough caftle \ =Margaret, heirefs. Maud, fays Camden.

Thomas Dacre, efq. lord 7 r>i T , of Holbech, 1450. I yPh.l.ppa, ob. 1453.

Humphry Dacre, efq.

Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470.

Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently, Moultok perhaps, were not fo common as now. There is a good church, and very fine fpire; as alfo a good free-fchool of near lool, per ann. value in lands.

Moulton

24

I.

Weston.

Spalding.

Pynchbek

Doning-

TON.

Algar-

KIRK.

WiBERTON

Frampton

ITER

Moulton hall, whofe laft ruins I have feen, was the feat of Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in thefe parts. His hand is among the barons at Magna Charta. Between thefe two parifhes, in a green lane northwards, Hands a little Hone called Elho Hone, whence the name of this- hundred is derived : it is about the middle thereof, and was formerly the main road acrofs the country, now called Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an annual court j I fuppofe a con¬ vention, fub dio, of the adjacent parts, to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called Elhoftone wood.

Wefton, becaufe weft from the laft town. Here is the ftately chapel of Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement dc Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by Thorold, fheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-houfe. Many places near the old fea-bank are called hums, fignifying an angle.' Here is a little leam called the the Wik : Mr. Camden, in Bucks, fays it fignifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by.

Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before the Conqueft, and for the refidenceof IvoTailbois, the lord of this country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the fite of whofe caftle is on the north- eaft part of the town. The town-hall was built by William Hobfon. But of this place we expe6l from you, fir, a more particular account.

. In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet ; Argent, on two bars fable, fix efcallops of the firft, empaled with De la Launde. Pyncebeck feems to come from the Cimbrian pinken, lucere, from the clearnefs of its water.

Many towns, on both fides Deeping Fen, end in ington, Ingham, as lying upon the Mead. Donington is very hilly, full of elevations or dunes. Thomas Cowley, efq. of Donington, who died about 1718, left all his eftate, which was confiderable, to the poor of every parifti where it lay, whereof 400I. per ann. to Donington, where he built a fchool-houfe, and endowed it.

Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are fome water-bougets carved on the oak feats in efcutcheons. They fay here lived the famous count Algar,'f' commander of the Holland men in many battles againft the Danes, of whom they ftiow an image in ftone in the church-yard. I found there this infeription.

Sis teflis Xpe, quod non jacet hie lapis ijie ^ifquis es fi tranfeas Jia perlege plora Corpus ut ornetur Jit lapis ut memoretur.

Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor Ora.

Wiberton, they fay, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewife Titton hall : the chapel is now converted into a ftable.

Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxon ic trajicere:

for here they paffed over the river in a ferry, before Bofton bridge was built} asatFramton, in Gloucefterftiire, upon the Severn, and Framilode paffage. Farnton by Newark, where now is the ferry over the Trent. Gofberton, from Gojbert, or Gojbright, I fuppofe lord of the town before

the

t Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two Rewards, Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to thefe three towns, Algakirk, Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great viAory over the Danes, anno 8yo. (Chron.Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo, ed. a Spaik, p 15. from Ingulf) but were flain the next day. 9 Ed. I. Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week, on the Monday, at his manor of Gofberchurch, and H ^ there, as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and

ITER I.

the Conqueft. Fofsdike feems to be Fordsdike, where we pafs over the Wafhes.

Skirebec doubtlefs has its name from the Saxon, yr/rr, divifion, becaufe Sklisbeck. here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hofpital ot knights of St.

John of Jerufalem, now intirely demolidied, though the churcii was Handing within memory of man. There v/as another religious houfe near the church : the remains of it is now the parfonage-houfe. Such names of towns as Fifn- toft, Butterwick, Swinefhead, Cowbyte, and the like, feem eafy enough.

Sibfey church has very handfome pillars and circular arches, fomewhat after the Roman mode. 1 he top of the Ibeeple is added upon ^ the old work ; perhaps from its watery fituation ; fpa?i, to fteep. ^ Levertcn,

Leojrici oppidum : he was a potent man thereabouts at the time of the Normans coming, and gave to the town much common : his deed of gift is now in polTeffion of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr. William Faikner, which I have feen.

Friefton, a friths ajluarium \ fo Aid Frifton in Suffex, near Cuckmere pp^^sYON. haven. Here was an opulent monaftery founded by Guy de Croun, whofe genealogy I fliall not think much to recite, becaufe it relates to the anti¬ quities of this country, and in fome meafure Hiows the reafon of what my friend Mr. Becket, furgeon, much wondered at when he learched the old repofitory of wills at the Prerogative Office in London, where he obferved more of this country than any other in England.

The GENEALOGY

Of the Craons, Crcdon^ Crodon^ Crou?i, the mod: illuflrious family of Anjou, and one of the moft illuffrious in France, which came into Eng¬ land with William the Conqueror. The barony of Craon is the firfl; and moft confiderable in Anjou : it is a fmall city in that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne, encompafled with walls.*

A. D. 940.

Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of 7 =: t Agnes, daugliter of Folk, die good Bruflon, and of Loches. 5 I 1 count of Anjou, and lord of Loches.

lozenge o. & g. I

I ~

Lifois the elder, lord of Craon ; he Artus de Craon, chambrier de I’abbay

lived in the time of Nerra, earl de St. Aubin d’Angers.

of Anjou.

Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon.

Lifois de Craon tlte younger, author of the elder or h.ng- lilh houfe of Craon ; he was lord of Mordelles. V.Hil- toire de Sable, p. log, no.

Guerin de Craon, lord of Craon. Suhard de Craon the younger. He doing homage for his ba¬ ronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, inftead of Geffrey Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that fervice. It was conhfcated ; whereupon he waged war, but was wounded therein, and died.

Robte de Craon, beliefs = Robert de Vitre, lord of Vitre.

Ilildeberg married to Herbert Marquis of

Robert de Nevers, firnamed the ==: Avis de Sable, Burgundian, or Allobrog.

Inogen deVItre. = Reynold the Burgundian, lord

ot Craon.

Authors of the fecond houfe of Craon, of fpecial note in France. He founded the abbey of Roe, in the neiglibourhood of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was Cleriau.

H

* Thoroton’s Hift. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174.

Geffry

26

ITER I.

Geffry, firft prior to the abbey of St. Jivron in Norman dy, after abbot of CroylanJ, ob. 1124.

Robert, monk of St. Evron, was afterwards abbot of Thorney.

Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Friefton, near Bofton, Lincolnflrlrc, given him by William the Conqueror, with whom became into Eng¬ land. He had another feat at Burton Crown, near (Sleafoi dj fo called from him, as now Pedwardyn from his defcendants : he had much land in Afhby, Ravendale, Wade, and Bliton, com. Line. 20 W. I. as appears in Domeiday. He pofTeffed no lefs than fixty lordfhips. He gave to the jmiory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town, anno 1081. Hiftoir. de Sable, p. 138. thus fays the charter of donation. Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine infpiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of his eftate to GOD and St. Nicholas, for the foul of \Villiam the king, and Maud the queen, and for the foul of William the Firft, that the Lord would grant him luccefs in his reign, and bring him to a good end ; one carucat of land in Spaldingue, wdth the appurtenances ; his wife, all his fons and daughters, and brothers, confenting thereto, for the good of his

foul. - He likewife gave ten carucats of land in Pynchbeck to

the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in Spalding to the lame.

Godfrey de Croun, ftrft prior of Friefton.

Emme. Roger de Croun.

William de Crown.

Alan de Croun=Muriel.

Baron Croun.

He was in higheft favour with king Hen. 1. to whom he was great fteward of the houfhold. Petrus Blefeniis lays he was dear to the king above all other barons of the court, and whole counfel he valued moft. He fo far excelled in induftry, honefty, wdfdom, and lan61;ity, that he •was called the King’s God, by the foldiery. In his country at Friefton, he was called Jlan Open-doors, becaule he kept fo great a houfe, fays Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126. He owned Southwarnburn, com. Southampt. He founded the pr;ory of Friefton for Benedidlin monks, fubjedi to the abbot of Croyland, anno 1 142 : he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the fouth fide of the high altar. See the Monajlicon, and Hiftory of Ingulfus and Continuation,, and Dugdale’s Baronage.

1150.

Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was made keeper of the caftle of Ancennis bv Hen. 11. and governor of the provinces of Anjou and Main ; he was one of the plenipo- )> = tentiaries on the part of the king, in the treaties between him and Philip the Auguft, king of France.

Maurice de Ci oun, nepos regis Sc nepos Ahnerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn reftituitur poft mortem Ahnerici de Croun. ‘ — Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. i. m. 28.

Matilde.

Clarice, filler to Henry III. vid. liberat. 35 Hen. III. m, 3. and Claul. 45 Hen. III. m. 13. Ihe was after married again to the duke of Burgundy, 33 Hen. HI. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2.

Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio mari- tagio quafdain terras in Walttun com. Surr. led forisfecit illas adherendo baronibus contra Ric. 1. V. Lib. Feod. Milit, f. 16. b.

Ralf de Croun.

Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun & Ewell, com. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24.

Guy de Crown, 7 =Ifabel. baron Crown \

He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the LIolv Land, 1192 ; was prefent at the treaty between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, lecited by Hoveden, annal He confirmed, to the mms of ilaveiholm, pafture for ninefcore Iheep in Bloxam fields, even to the bounds between them and the abbot ot Grelle.— V. lib. R. Dodfworth, vocat, petigrees, tom. i. f, 94. b.

Walter to Langtot=Matildis.

Rauulf de Langtot=

1 here

ITER

27

I.

There were lands in Sutton held of the honour of Croun, — Inquif, Wap. F.lhou. I Ed, III. feod. milit. 42. ofEc. armor, p. 32.

1. William Longchamp r:

2. Henry de Mara.

Gules, a feffe between three 1

water-budgets ermine.

Robert de Vallibus came into"^ f

England with William the ^ Conqueror, 3

Agnes.

William de Vauxrz

_ [

I

Robert de Vauxnr

= Petronilla,

{

Oliver de

3

Vaux.

argent and gules.

Chequy

Sir Henry de Longchamp : he died March 1274, and was buried at Swynflied abbey ; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, as called from his Ion in-law, before the altar in the chapel of the Virgin Mary. Or, three cref- cents gules, charged each with a mullet

l\ 1

Sibilla, daughter of Sir Thomas Herin- gande, com. SulT. Az. fix herrings argent.

There is a great Fe gatery’d about Boftone parts by the name of Petronille de la Corone dowghter by Lykelehode de la Corone foundar of Friefton priorye, and buried at Croyland, This fe is

now paid to the lord Rofle, but the Richmount _ _

fe is greater there. There is alfo anoder fee cauld Fepardyne ; and that the lord Linfey had : and the owners of thefe fees be lords of the town of Bofton. — Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124. — Petronii had lands in Hol- bech and Quaplode. — Inquif. Elho, i Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. arm. p. 32. and in Wefton, p. 33, 20, 21, &c. 'Juratores dicunt quod Petroniila de valUhus tenet de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnhurn com. Southampton id in com. Lincoln 22. feod. mil. id dtmid. per Baronium id quod Henricus de Longo Campo eji ejus propinquior heres id astat. 50. id amplius. — Efcaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5.

John de Vaux== owned the ma¬ nor of Friefton, and certain lands in Bofton by gift ofhis mother, in feod'j taliiata, ob. 1288.

Roger Penwardyn.

Gules, two lions 1 regardant argent.

Alice: fhe died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north fide of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, in Burton Ped¬ wardin, where I faw her tomb-ftone, with this inferip- tion, 1714,

a!L3i®. f>®Ce®Mt3taD3l3l3. ©pc, 3icp. D®. ®a. ait^® ©gc- ®®k®|.

Petronii = Sir \Villiam de Nereford.

William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, 7 Gules, three water -budgets argent, j ~

Maud, beliefs.

Matilda, ob. S. P.

^Villiam de Ros. =

Margery, one of the coheirefTes of Giles de Badlifmere, lord of Chillham. Their djieen- dants were barons Ros ; and the Manois’s, earls of Rutland, married an heirefs.

Thangharat, filler to > i r Walker Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, lived in thel 2 fMaud,dauoh- Thelwell Llewellin, / J caflle of Brampton, in Wigmorland, in the i j terofSirluha prince of Wales. ^ ~ J marches of Wales, called Waugher Thleud by : ~ J Lvn""’"

3 (.reafon of his white hairs. j

pain.

L

anno i 340.

Roger Pedwardin 11. he built entirely new the church of Burton ") f

Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the north fide; ! _ J Alice, daughter of Henrj

but the fouth aile, together with the chapel of St. Nicholas, was | *! Longchamp. ^

rebuilt at the fame time by the parilliioners. J '

:58

ITER

I.

Vainona.

Sir Roger Pcdwardin : he died lo Feb. 1368,' buried at Burton: he obtained a bull for| 530 days pardon to all bcnefaftors towards ( the church and chapels there.

Joint de Markham, J f daughter

J, C. Az. onachief of Nicholas Bottom-

ar. a demi-lion. J

Uell.

Agnes, daughter of pliilip Darcv, fjfter and coheirefs of Norman D’arcy, lord Darcy of NotSlon, Azure, feniee de crofs crollets or, three cinquefoils ar.

Brian de Pedwardin, Lincoln.

efc, II E. HI. N. 4.

Robert de Mark¬ ham.

Milicent

daughter

Beckerin.

oft

I I of Caunton.

Sir John? Markham, ju-^ ^(lic.de Banco, j

daughter

Alice = John de Warbelton.

lEliz. daugh- |terandco!iei- .refs of Hugh de Creffy.

J

Sir Walter Ped¬ wardin, ob. II June, 1405. j

r Ifabel,daughterand \ coheirefsof SirRob. J Hilton, and Marga- "Jret, daughter and /coheir of Marma- l^dukeTweng, knt.

Sir John Markham, of Netting- > ^

ham: he was lord chief juftice, / I

10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook / \ , . u • r .sf

, , r- A '-r, J \ Margaret, coheirels ot

church, near Grantham. lhat\_J c- r 1 ’ J • u- r 1 Simon Leek,

manor continued m his ramily f

till Sir George Markham lately

fold it to Sir John Thorold.

Walter de Pedwardin.

Catharine=David,fon of Sir Daniel I letwick.

Elizabeth daugh-

I H30;.

Sir Robert Pedwardin, r ob. 26. April, 1432. ter to Sir Edmund

^nes trim, mich, 8 Hen. ( I Pierpoint, knight. IV. Line. ) (,

Alatthew Leak.

o

John de Fleet, of Fram- ton, efq. a lawyer. Ar. two bars fable, each charged with three fcallops of the firft.

■= Katharine.

2= Walter Pedwardin, "J efq ob. 14. Aug. 1 1429, 9 Hen. Vl. ; Ecc. N. 7. J

f Katharine daugh- j ter of Ingilby ; of Ripley, near ^Knaresburgh.

Beatrice

Leak.

Roger Pedwardin.

Thomas Pedwar¬ din.

Chriftopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, Salop, fon and heir, releafed all his right to the manor of Burton Pedwardin, Clauf. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8. Line.

Katharine.

oanna.

Alexander Leak. == Margaret

John Qiiickerell, of Bofton = Ann

The fite of Rousliall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parifh of Fiflitoft.

In Wainfleet church, the bifhop of Winchefter, whofe name was Patten, founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erefled a marble monument for his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town

V» /a

ITER I.

he built a handfome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty good revenue, to pray for his and his anceftors fouls. Now it is made a free-fchool houfe. This place ftill retains its ancient name ; fori am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of Raveijiia, who has happily preferved fo many of our old Britifli cities. The learned Mr. . Baxter, in his Gloflary of Britifh Antiquities, with a faga- city peculiar to himfelf, has corrected this from Navione. The fea has added much ground to this place fince the Roman times, and then their city flood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off the prefent town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called North-holm : it is flill very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been broad, being a pretty good river, whilfl the waters of the eafl fen ran through it, and kept it open : it was thirty foot wide a mile above the churches, as appears by the old doughs there j for they had wifely contrived by that means to keep out the fait water and heighten the frefh, which no doubt would have preferved the haven to this day, had they not foolifhly fuffered the eafl-fen water to be carried to Boflon. It is apparent the natural courfe of water here (as we before obferved of other parts of the level) is eafl- ward ; the eafl fen is lower than the weft fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches : the edge of the piers which cut the water was weft- ward; which fhows that the water originally run eaftward, and the whole level was drained that way, though now moil currents i*un to Boflon. The inhabitants have a conftant tradition, that this was a great town ; but when the haven was filled up, Boflon became the fea-port : likewife they fay there is a road acrofs the eaft fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman road; and there are people now alive who knew fuch as had remembered it. Doubtlefs this was a place where the Romans made their fait of the fea water, to fupply all this province ; and it is not im¬ probable that this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &c. Many fait hills are vifible from Wainfleet to Frifkney. The king is flill lord of the foil of this old Roman city.

Three miles north, and as much from Skegnefs and the fea, is Burgh, a market-town, whofe name drew my attention. I found it to be a Ro¬ man caftrum to guard the fea-coafls, probably againft the Saxon rovers : it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly raifed by Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marfhes, perhaps in thofe times co¬ vered with fait water, at leaft in fpring tides. There are two artificial tumuli^ one very high, called Cock-hill. In St. Mary’s church-yard, now demolifhed, Roman coins have been found. I faw a very fair and large Antoninus Pius in brafs, cos. iiii. in pofTeftion of Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town they frequently dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good. There appear no Roman ways, ‘uallunit or ditch, to inclofe the town, which is a fort of knoll, or riling ground.

I was told of a Roman aquedudl of earth, found at Spilfby. In Plalton church hard by is this infcription on a flat ftone. +

Another,

a crofs-legged knight : on his fhield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a reli¬ gious houfe founded by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a chalky heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined one into another, compofed of chalk : the chalk in Lincolnfliire by Alford anfwers to that in Norfolk. Tatefhall collegiate church founded by Ralf Cromwell. Many tufnuli hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and other places, but none fo remarkable a curioflty as thofe by the broad road upon the defcent of the high country, overlooking the vaft level towards Bofton.

I At

Burgh, a BlO. fort.

30

Banoval-

LUM.

I’AB.

LXXXIX.

ITER I.

At Revefby, by the feat of Jofeph Banks, efq; there is an oval inclofed with a broad ditch: the longed diameter, which is fomewhat above 300 foot, is precifely eaft and weft; the other a little above 100 : the entrance to it is on the middle of the fouth fide : within, at each end of the length, is a large tumulus joo foot in diameter : they are equal in fhape and firnilar pofiture, a large vacuum of 1 00 foot lying between : it is very regularly formed : the length of the oval ditch that inclofes the two tumuli is equal to thrice the breadth ; the tumuli are large and high: that rifing on the north fide, without the ditch, is of an odd figure, but firnilar. It feems to have been a place of fepulture ; perhaps two Britifh kings were there buried ; and the height on the north fide was the place whereon they facrificed horfes, or the like, to the manes of the deceafed. Or is it a place of religious worfhip among the old Britons ? and the two hills may poffibly be the temples of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it ancient, becaufe of the meafure : the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic feet, as I call them ; the length to 300.

Horncaftle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in Ravennas : the latter part of the word is Latin, fo that it fignifies the fortification upon the river Bane. It is of a low fituation, placed in the angle of the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring ; whence the modern name Horncaftle, which fignifies an angle, all this country over, as you know in your neigh¬ bouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn, Guy-hurn, See. I will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient way of painting rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of which we may find a hint in Burton’s Comment, on Antoninus’s Itinerary, pag. 56. and they that pleafe may confult Bochart’s Ploaleg^ II. 22. where are many proofs of the ancients exprelTing an angle by the term horn. Skinner in his Etymologicon rightly affirms it comes from the Saxon word hyrn ; and BElfricus expounds it by the word cornu. It is probable the Romans were induced to make a ftation here at firft from its convenient fituation, eafily rendered defenfible by a vallum drawn acrofs the aperture from one river to the other ; and thence came the Roman name. Afterwards they built the indiffoluble ftone wall, whole vcjligia are manifeft the whole compafs round, and in fome places pretty high, as three or four yards, and four yards thick. It ferves for fides of gardens, cellars, out-houfes. See. as chance offers, inclofing the market-place, church, and good part of the town. It is a perfeff parallelogram, compofed of two Iquares : at the angles have been fquare towers, as they report : the gates were in the middle of three fides, and I fuppofe a poftern into the meadows called the Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I fufpefl originally the river Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part, and behind the manor-houfe : the garden there has been heightened, and the river pufhed farther off, and turned with a larger bow to favour the people who live in Far-ftreet, and efpecially the tanners, who are very numerous there : both rivers probably were wider and deeper than now, as the Celtic name of Bane altus intimates, which at prefent is conform¬ able to reality lower down. Some do not fcruple to affirm it was a fea-port, that is, navigable. The Waring arifes but a mile or two off. The field acrofs it fouth of the town is called the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was Vispomreria^ from the Saxon word campus^ ager. Here they find a

great number of Roman coins. I faw a brafs coin of Vefpafian ; reverfe, an eagle, consecratio ; dug up from under the walls of Banovallum : Mr. Hograve of the place has it now : but Horncaftle was not built in the time of Vefpafian. I faw, in poffeffion of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, a filver Vefpafian found here; reverfe, a fitting Genius with a fympulum in her

Jofeplio Banks BonianorinixlisecVeiti^iacl.tl.^JC^ Stukeley^

y

\

(

I

S,’

t

I

I '

'*■

A"- ■'■^^

4/'

i.'

\ .

• f

■ i:'

V

}/ -

j

<

\

»y' ’'. ,

H

■rf

.:^r'

'■> K-

- ■ ■ i; ’- '

>€'■ r

bi<*S >■

%»

'•;/*

I T E E, I. :,I

hand, andcN. ma. In 1734, a girl digging fand by the road fide going from Les Yates to Horncaftle, and near Horncaftle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &c. Mr. Terry colleftor gave me fome of them. Near the walls upon digging cellars they fometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford runs into the Bane. The fchool lands were given by private perfons, and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their feal is a caftle and hunting-horn : and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum through the gate called formerly a Bow.

This way is the maypole-hill, where probably Rood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep up the fellival of the Floralia on May day, making a proceffion to this- hill with May gads (as they call them) in their hands : this is a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with cowflips, a thyrfus of the Bacchanals : at night they have a bonfire and other merriment 5 which is really a facrifice, or religious feftival. The king formerly had this whole town in his pofleffion, until it was bellowed on the bifhop of Carlifle. Near the conflux of the two brooks was lately a pleafant garden, and a place called Julian’s Bower, much talked of.

Leak fignifies a watery marfhy place. ¥/rangle an ab A. S. Wear lacus^ and hangel arundo^ lacus arundinibus obfita? Return we to Bollon, Boston. num Sti. Botulphi^ the faint of fea-faring men. St. Botulf (the biihop) his body lay in St. Edmund’s monaftery at Bury. Wm. Malmfb. p. 137.

This feems to have been the laft bounds northward of the Iceni in mofl: antient times ; therefore its old name was Icanhoe, or Icenorum muni¬ mentum^ as Mr. Baxter interprets it in his Gloflary. I guefs the firft monaftery founded here was on the fouth of the prefent church ; for I faw vaft ftone walls dug up there, and a plain leaden crofs taken up 3 in my pofleflion. Many were the religious houfes here in fuperftitious times, whofe lands were given to the corporation by Hen. VIIL as likewife the eftate of the lord Hufley, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion : he lived in one of the houfes where is a great fquare tower of brick, called now Hufley tower. There are many fuch in this country, as that now called Rochford and fometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a great benefaftrefs to this corporation, and gave them lands called Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two fchool-mafters : they have now a revenue of athoufand pounds per annum. In the parfonage- houfe is a fcutcheon with a paftoral ftalf behind it thus : a fefs charged with a fifh and two annulets between three plates, each charged with a crofs fitche.

The church, I think, is the largeft parifh church (without crofs ailes) in the^^^ world : it is a hundred foot wide and three hundred foot long within the walls : the roof is handfomely cieled with Irilh oak fupported by four and twenty tall and flender pillars : many remains of fine brafles in the church, none fo perfect as this in the fouth aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this infcription,

€cce fufi hoc lapine henricuief filete fiflit humatuu Pi mo?ti0 rapiPa gcnerofus fempec Pocitatu0 hie quifqui0 P0netj0 ipfum piecihu0 memoiari0. fponfam Pefunftam fimul aliciam fihi junftam anno mil € quater quaP?agenoque Peno marcia quarto Pie0, ertat ei Eequie0.

The tower is the higheft (100 yards) and nobleft in Europe, flattering a weary traveller with its aftonifhing afpedt even at ten miles diftance. It is

eafily

TAB. III. 2d vol.

Kirton.

ITER I.

cafily feen forty mile round this level country, and farther by fea ; the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinnefs of the ftone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell, which could be heard fix or feven miles round, with many old verfes round it : about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking the infcription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the fouth fide of the church-yard was, fome few years ago, a curious monument* (as they fay) of one of the builders of the church, in ftone, of arched work, but now intirely demoliflied j and in the mar¬ ket place in my memory was an old and large crofs, with a vault under¬ neath, fteps all around it, and at top a ftone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time quite deftroyed. I found here an old brafs feal of .Wil¬ liam Chetwynd, with his coat of arms, A feffe lozenge between three mullets, which I gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here, black, white and grey ; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a colonel, lay in Bofton the night before he fought the battle of Winceby near Horncaflle, 061. 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a cuftom of pulling geefe twice a year ; which has not efcaped Pliny’s notice, X. 22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swinelhed abbey, founded by Rob. Greifly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall of the new houfe. Here king John fickened in his journey to Sleeford caftle and Newark caftle, where he died.

Eafi: of Bofton was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church dedicated to St. John, but demolifhed. Here was a ftaple for wool and feveral other commodities, and a vaft foreign trade : the hall was pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now the place of meeting for the corporation and feftions, &c. Here was born the learned John Fox the martyrologift. Queen Elizabeth gave the corporation a court of admiralty all over the fea-coafl hereabouts.

Abundance of rare fea-plants grow near this coaft : many fpecies of fea- worm^oods, fcurvy-grafs, criihmum marinum-, atriplex marinum, ^c. of which we may expedl a good account from Dr. Blair of Bofton ; as alfo of many rare fifties caught hereabouts. Raja, needk-fijh, Jlar^fiJh, &c. and of the fiickle-back oil is made in very large quantities, the invention of the Ichtyophagi, Pliny XV. 7. Carum n^ulgare. Caraway, grows plentifully in the paftures all about Bofton. Safnbucus foliis •variegatis baccis albis^ Elder-tree with gilded leaves and white berries, in Bofton Fen-ends : a gilded ivy in Mr. Pacey’s garden. Apium palufire Italicum, Selery vulgo diSlum, in all the ditches of Holland. Paronychia folio rutaceo. Rue-leaved whit- low-grafs, on the north fide of walls and houfes. A barberry-tree with¬ out ftones, in Alderchurch parifti. Afparagus fylvefris, wild afparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode. Many rare plants in the eaft fen, fuch as fra- iiotes azoides, frefh water fengreen. In the boggy grounds about Tatterfall, Prifohum palujlre, ros folis, virga aureCy myrtus brabantica, pinguicula, afphodelus, adiai'ithum aureum. In the park, androfamum, tutfan : in the ditches hard by, valeriana fylvefris : in the heaths, many forts of erica : fo- lanum kthale about Cowhurn.

Pafs we from Bofton by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bifhop of Lincoln, after the manner of a cathedral with a tranfept. It has a handfome tower ftanding upon four pillars in the middle of the crofs, with a noble ring of five large bells. I obferve, this building is fet upon the ruins of a former

church,

* That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St. Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles before and after death.

//:yjY7tj r

I H a/rrli!

33

ITER I.

church, part whereof is vifible at the weft end : and in moft of the churches in this country the fame may be difcovered, from the different manner of the architedlure ; the moft ancient having fmall windows arched femicircularly j what is additional, to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both within and without ; upon the font is this infcription :

+ ®?ate pro anima alani burton qui fontem ilium Seri fee. a. 0. mccccii.

Againft the north wall is the monument of a perfon in armour, and round it this infcription,

+ £D?ate p|0 anima 31obanni0 oe ^ere0.

The family of the Meres has flouriihed much hereabouts.

Upon the edge of Lincolnffiire, in the middle of a vaft fenny level, Crowland is fftuate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins of an „ opulent monaftery, which ftill makes a confiderable profpedf. The abbey land prefents a majeftic view of ruins j founded a thoufand years ago, by AtheU bald king of the Mercians, in a horrid filence of bogs and thorns j made TAB. IV. eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the feverities of an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profufe hand, and all the land for feveral miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and fand, and they have found feveral of them in tear¬ ing up the ruins of the eaftern part of the church j for what remains now is only part of the weft end ; and of that only one cc-rner in tolerable repair, which is their parilh-church at prefent. It is not difficult at this time to diftinguifti part of the very firft building of this clturch, from that which was built by Ingulphus.^ In the middle of the crofs ftood once a lofty tower and a remarkably line ring of bells, of which there is a proverb in this country ftill remaining : one predigioufly great bell v/as facred to Guthlac : tliey are fakl to have been tire firft peal of bells in the county, perhaps England. 'j'* From the foundation of this tower to the weft end, is fomewhat left, but only the walls, pillars, with paffages or galleries at top, and ftair-cafes at the corners. The roof, which was of Irifii oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about twenty years ago : you fee pieces of it in every houfe. The pavement is covered with fhrubs for brafs inferiptions, and people now at pleafure dig up the monumental ftones, and divide the holy fiiipwreck for their private ufes j fo that, inftead of one, moft of the houfes in the town are become religious. The painted glafs was broke by the foldiers in the rebellion, for they made a garrifon of the place. Ail the eaftern part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation j and the afties as well as tombs of an infinite number of illuftrious perfonages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, k,c. there hoping for repofe, are difperfed, to the irreparable damage of Englilh hiftory.

The great Waltheof, earl of Northum-berland and Huntingdon, was one of the faints here : he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monaftic buildings, clo^fters, hall, abbot’s lodgings, t and the like, which

K no

* The old church, built after the Danifli devaftation in 870, was of Turketil’s railing, who died 975. The new part of Crowland abbey was built in 1114.

t The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf, p. 505- The firft was made by Turketil, Guthlac the greateft : the five others were made by his luccefiTor, abbot Egelric , Bartholomew^ Bettelin^ Turketyl^ Tatwin, Pega and Bcga.

X The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s feat at Upton by Peterborough, a defeendant of bifliop Dove’s : upon it, BENEDICITE fontes dno. I fuppofe the abbot’s name was Fountain.

34

ITER II.

no doubt were very fine, are abfolutely demoliflied ; no trace thereof left, whereby their extent might: be guefled at. In the north-weft corner of the church ftands a ftrong tower with a very obtufe fpire, and a pleafant ring of fmall bells. Over the weft gate are the images of divers kings, abbots, &c. among the reft St. Guthlac with a whip and knife, as always painted : they were cut in a foft kind of ftone, and drawn over in oil colour with gilding.

Not far off the abbey eaftward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a little ftone cottage, called Anchor Church-houfe : here was a chapel over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was buried.§ Over- TAB VII weft end of the abbey is the famous triangular bridge : it is too

fteep to be commonly rode over j horfes and carriages go under it : it is formed upon three fegments of a circle meeting in one point ; they fay each bafe ftands in a different county. The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one fide fits an image of king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s crofs, between Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-houfe and Cloot-bar, ftands upon the fide of the bank, almoft buried under earth : TAB. XL it is a boundary of the church lands : of great antiquity. j|

ITER OXONIENSE. II.

Sed prior hrec hominis cura eft cog?iofcere terram. Virg.

To Mr. JOHN HARDY of Nottingham.

IT is commonly remarked, that impreflions of any fort made upon youthful minds laft long ; and, like a cut in the bark of tender fprigs, grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years.

Crefcent illce crefcetis amores. Virg.

The many hours I have fpent with you when I firft began to caft my eyes upon the fcenes of the world, and confider things about me, recur to my mind with pleafure. I fliould be ungrateful then, (to which my temper is moft abhorrent) and I Ihould deny myfelf a particular fatisfadtion, did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendfhip now mature: therefore to you I offer the earlieft fruits of it, this fmall account of the firft pleafurable journey I can reckon to myfelf, where I had opportunity for fatisfying my growing curiofity. It is no wonder that your learning, your tafte of antiquities, and all endearing qualities, made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance 3 and perhaps to you in great meafure do I owe what may not be difcommendable in amufements of the following kind, fince

our

§ St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720.

II The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the time of king Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s crofs, Plate XL was fet up by abbot Thurketil a little before that time. — Ingulf, p. 497. b.

V

35

I T E 11

II.

our convcrfe and our journeying fometimes together, to vifit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my firft years, gave me the love and incitement to fuch purfuits. I am not concerned to make an excufe for the meannefs of this prefent : were it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when firff with you, fo fince it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I made in travelling : at length I had colledled fo much, that with fome drawings of places and things taken at the fame time, it was judged not unworthy of publication ; my confent was grounded upon hopes that by this means I might give fome account of every part of my time, and that my own pleafures might not be altogether unufeful j efpecially thinking it was nc hard talk to equal fomewhat of this fort lately done, and well received of the public. It is to be wifhed this branch of learning fhould revive among us, which has lain dormant fince the great Camden ; fo that either in difcourfing on it, or journeying, we might find fome enter¬ tainment worthy of men of letters.

Palling the fenny counterfcarps of Holland, we begin our journey at^TANFcso Stanford, which Hands in a mild air and pleafant country abounding with noblemen’s feats. Many religious houfes have been at Stanford, and once a college founded there, of which they boall much j but of all thefe things we expert Ihortly an exa6l and full account from the reverend Mr. Peck.

About 1708, a brafs feal was dug up, in the callle at Stanford, of Thomas bilhop of Elphin in Ireland ; in polfelfion of Ralf Madyfon, efq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a traveller’s view : the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio : abundance of curious pictures from Italy, col¬ lected by my lord’s grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble family.

Through a pleafant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay caftle, Fodering- lituate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country and wide-extended meadows. The caftle feems to have been very ftrong : there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch : the fpace around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river : it is moftly demolifhed, and all the materials carried off. They pretend to ftiow the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded. Some fay king James I. ordered this fortrefs to be deftroyed out of indignation : it was the feat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York, buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by Edward duke of York, and here likewife interred : their monuments in the chancel (which was intirely demolilhed at the fupprefiion) were reftored by queen Elizabeth : the windows of the church are filled with very handfome painted glafs, reprefenting the images of cardinals, arch-bifhops, abbots, &c. fuch as St.

Denis with his head in his hand, St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-biftiop of Canterbury, &c. thefe were faved in the late civil war, by the then minifter of the parifh, with a little money given to the foldiers that came to execute the harmlefs faints. We met with thefe uncouth verfes upon the wall, fhowing the poetry of thofe times ;

In feflo Martyrii procejfus Martini ani ^

Ecclejia prima fuit hujus petra locata.,

Anno Chrijli primum centum ac ?7iille

Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente A*'

On the north fide of the church are the remains of the college, and the meadow under it retains its name : the fteeple has an oftagonal tower at the top, fomewhat like that of Bofton j at the bafes of which are the images

of

OUNDALE

Bouchtoh

Gedding-

TON.

ITER II.

of bears and ragged ftaffs, cognifances (I fuppofe) of the founders ; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glafs. They have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the pariffi. There is a fchool in the town, eredfed by Hen. VII. worth about 30I. per ann. over the door is wrote, Dijce aut difcede. A If one bridge over the river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. Ihown by an infcription on the wall, a monument of the fpite of the foldiers, who cut out with their fwords, as they palled by, one line of it, God jave the queen.

Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked of by the fuperftitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the palTage of the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the fubterraneous chinks ; for, as Virgil fays,, in his fine poem called Mtna,

Sedla ejl omnis humus penitufque cavaia latehrls^ hSc. and that it is done by intervals or pulfes as it were, is but confentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long bridges of ftone. Louick church, on the fide of a hill, is very fine, founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats of arms. There is a pidfure of the founder in armour, on his knees, prefenting his church to God : here is his monument, of the Veres too, and Staffords earls of Wiltfiiire, and others who intermarried with his family : there is a modern one of the late Dutchefs of Norfolk, who was married, after her divorcement, to the prefent owner of the family feat, called Drayton houfe, Sir John Germayn, v/ho has for the moll part new-built it.

From hence we went to Boughton, the feat of the duke of Montagu, magnificent for building, painting and gardens : the ftables are large and frately, well calculated for the defigned grandeur of the houfe ; for it is not yet finilhed : the hall is a very noble room : on the deling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many fuites of rooms and apartments, fiair-cafes, galleries, &c. befide the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of the furniture ; the gardens contain fourfcore and ten acres of ground, adorned wdth ftatues, fiower-pots., urns of marble and metal, many very large batons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, refervoirs, fiffa-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernefies, terraces, &c. the cafcade is very fine : a whole river, running through the length of the gardens, is diverfffied very agreeably to complete its beauty.

A mile olf is Geddington, vv^here in a trivium ftands one of the ftone croffes'^ built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen Eleanor, who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnfhire, 1291. it is formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architedure to fuit its ftation. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in the Lady’s chapel of Lincoln minfter 5 and in her journey thence to Vfeftminfter, where ever her herfe refted, the king erected one of thefe magnificent erodes, as a monument of his great love : upon them are the arms of England, Caftile, Leon and Poictou. Thefe are the places, as far as I am at prefent informed, Lin¬ coln, Grantham, Stamford,;]: Geddington, Northampton, Stony Stratford,

Dunftable,

* Of thefe crofles thus Walungliam, Hift. Angl. anno 1291. Dum (rexj finibus Scotias, &c.

t Grantham and Stamford were two fiages. Mr. Howgrave fays there was a queen’s crofs at Stanford ; and tlte like is affirmed of Grantham, and that it Rood in the open place in the London road: and I law a ftone, carved with foliage work, faid to be part of it ; and I believe it, ieemmg ot that fort of work; if lo, then Newark and Leicefter muft be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpfe by way of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I fuppofe the prefent

London

I

!

rji .

37

ITER II.-

Dunftable, St. Alban’s, Waltham, Cheapfide over againil; Wood-ftreet, Charing-crofs. Near this place is Boughton, having a petrifying fpring, which forms itfelf a canal of ftone as it runs, confolidating the twigs, mofs, and all adventitious bodies. We faw near the road a fpring-head, with a ftatue of Mofes in the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton houfe.

Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the moft elegant townELTABONA in England : which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great regularity and beauty. There is a fpacious fquare market-place, a fine aflize-houfe of Corinthian architetTure. Allhallow’s church is built after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of eight lofty Ionic columns ; upon the baluftrade a ftatue of king Charles II. There is an infeription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his fight, hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St. Sepulchre’s, feems to have belonged to the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, of a circular form : there has been another tacked to it of later date, with a choir and fteeple, as to that at Cambridge of the fame name and figure ; another fuch I am told is at Guildford, which are all of this fort that I know of in England. I fufpedt thefe are the moft ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later times of the Romans for Chriftian fervice, at leaft in the early Saxon reigns. Weftward are the ruins of the caftle, by the river fide, built by Simon Silvanedt I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewife St. Andrew’s abbey : his fon Simon Silvanedl II. earl of Northampton and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Pres abbey here about 1150. This probably is a Roman town arifing from one of the forts built upon this river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conqueft of the ifland ; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicefter and Stoney Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning ael, Jupercilium^ and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found on the other fide the river : there are likewife the footftens of the fortifications round the town, thrown up with baftions in the time of the civil wars. Under thofe on the-fouth fide, defeending into a ftone quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I faw a piece of oak wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the firata of folid ftone : though petrified, the ligneous fibres when fplit w^ould burn in a candle. I fuppofe it^o have been lodged there in the deluge. A little way from the tovv^n, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig up tobacco-pipe clay. Near ^ Billing, about three miles from Northampton, not far from the earl of Twomond’s feat, was lately found a mine of copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me.

From Northampton, over the river, by a large ftone bridge where is an old religious houfe, half a mile off in the London road, is another of queen Eleanor’s ftone crofles, called -Queen’s crofs, with her images and arms. It ftands on a hill in the open country upon eight fteps, in form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print. On the TAB. XII. other fide of the town, about three miles diftance, is Holdenby houfe,

L which

London road from Stanford being unpaffable, or not having at tliat time roya! feats, manf.rs. or abbeys, by the way, fufficient to entertain the cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, afferts Grantham and Stanford two of the ftages, and where crofles were eredled, no 'doubt, that at Grantham Rood in the open London road before my neighbour Idacket’s houfe, called Peter-church hill ; and the people have fome memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Wo¬ burn between Dunftable and St. Alban’s ; upon what authority I know not. — Geddington was a manor of the king’s, V. RegIft. Hon. Richmond, p. 280. — tamden in his Remains, p. 208, who doubtlefs had feen them, inferts Grantham and Stanford, V. p. 116.

38 ITER II.

which lies in noble ruins : here king Charles L was kept prifoner. A little way ofr is Naleby,^ where the bloody and fatal battle happened between his forces and thofe of the parliament, upon a fine plain where at prefent ftands a windmill : the marks of feveral great holes appear, where the flain were buried. This town, as near as may be, is the Guildsbo- navel of England. Near is Guiklsborough, fo named from a Roman RouGH.Ro-camp of a fquare form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I was told of man Camp, thereabouts, which I fuppofe thofe made in the time of Oftorius

about the heads of the rivers here; which all together made a fort of fortification between the north and fouth parts of the kingdom, efpecially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow at Pesford, called Long¬ man’s hill. We faw Althorp, a curious feat of the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furni fhed : there is a fine gallery adorned with good pictures, and a noble library.

Eston. My lord Lemfter’s feat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcefter, is a ftately building, and ftands pleafantly, encompafled with good plantations of wood, vifto’s and agreeable profpedts. In the grand view to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal : in the houfe are feveral curious picfures ; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot ; of a pillar of Perfepolis, one of thofe fixty foot high ; Perfeus looking Andromeda, by Giofeppi Cari ; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael : but what highly inhances the glory of this feat, is the vaft number of Roman and Greek marbles, ftatues, bufio’s, bas reliefs, &c. part of the mofc noble colledlion of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable treafure ; at prefent they are for the mofi: part expofed to the weather in the garden. I fiiall curforily name them all with the hafte of a traveller, though each fingle piece merits a ferious view, and a long defcription.

At the end of the fide terrace in the garden, and near the houfe, Rands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the ifle of Delos, where many now lie : this is fet upon a proper bake and pedeftal made purpofely for it ; the capital is unufual, but very beautiful, and feems perfectly to anfwer that defcription which Vitruvius gives us, IV. i. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit of Callimachus, who was pleafed with the appear¬ ance of a balket covered v/ith a tile, and luckily fet upon the middle of a root of acanthus^ or brank urfm., which fliot up its curled leaves around it in a delicate and tender manner : upon it ftands a flatue, the upper part naked. In the niches of that wall along the w^alk are feveral broken ilatues of goddefies, naked or in fine drapery, where the mind is divided between the pleafure of feeing what remains and the grief for what is loft. Upon the ftairs that defcend into the garden are a great many whole and broken ftatues, pieces of baJJ'o relievo., altars, urns, tombs, &c. fuch as the deftrudfion of Troy, reprefen ted in the Trojan horfe, the merriment of the Trojans, the daughter of Priamus, Achilles driving his chariot with Hedtor tied to it : there is another bas-relief of a battle ; a figure recum¬ bent at dinner ; two figures in proceftion, but covered over with mofs ; four figures, two with Phrygian bonnets ; good pieces of cornice-work, with mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds, &c. a tomb, the huiband and wife with the fon between ; a piece of Bacchanalians ; the end of a tomb, or vafe ; a malk and revelling figures ; an horfeman and footman engaging.

Moft

* At Nafeby, round the font an infcription, NITON

39

I T E 11 II.

Moftof thefe antiquities feem of the higheft Greek times. Before the fteps upon pedeftals are two Egyptian fphynges mitred, and two Mufes fitting : other things thereabouts are a fea-horfe in baflb 3 a man carrying another 5 a capital of a pillar made of a horfe’s head, with branches coming out of his mouth like them at Perfepolis, a dog’s head on one angle, and lions on the other : upon it are bulls and heads : over that is a portal of a monu¬ mental flone, with a woman and two children, the tomb of fome player, with fine baffos of mafks, the bufto of the deceafed 3 four Genii 3 two lions devouring horfes, finely cut ; over it a prieftefs by the fide of a tem¬ ple : eight round altars or pedeflals adorned with bulls heads, feftoons, &c. which ftand upon the piers of the flairs : upon and about them are other antiquities, fuch as the bottom part of Scylla 3 three monflers like dogs devouring three men 3 a receiver for an urn. Cupid adeep lies upon this.

On the north fide the front of the houfe, a tomb 3 another capital of a horfe’s head, &c. over it a baflb of Venus riding on a fea-horfe, a Cupid driving 3 a lion over it 5 two Cupids, alto relievo : fome bufls over the win¬ dows 3 a young Nero, Faunus, &c.

At the fouth end of the houfe, on the ground, an old headlefs flatue : upon the bafement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel- work, his buflo in baflb upon it : over the windows a fmall flatue 3 a woman with a child in her arms 3 a tomb 3 another capital from the temple of Apollo at Delos 3 a Greek mafk.

Next let us defcend into the garden along the middle walk. In the par¬ terres about the fountain ftand four Greek ftatues very intire, bigger than the life, of mofl admirable art : they are dreffed in matron-like robes, or outer garments, in mofl comely folds, yet cut fo exquifitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the whole fliape of the body, as if tranfparent : they cannot be fufficiently commended. Between them and the houfe on the fouth hde, is that celebrated flatue of Cicero intire, with his fudarium in his right, and a fcroll in his left hand ; the fight of the eyes is cut hollow. I could not polTibly excufe my felf half a quar¬ ter of an hour’s ferious view of this mafler-piece, frequently going round it : where fo much feeming fimplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire of that divine genius that could make flatues hear, as this artifl has made them fpeak, and left an eternal monument of contention between him and the great orator : it grieved me to think it fhould fland a day longer in the open air. Anfwering to this on the left, is another flatue of more robufl fliape and workmanfhip : his left hand holds a fcroll, his right is laid in a paflionate manner upon his breafl : if finewy mufcles denote one that worked on the anvil, it may poflibly be Demoflhenes. The two next that correfpond beyond the fountain, are Scipio Africanus and Afia- ticus, in an heroic drefs. Beyond, on each fide the fteps going down to the lower garden, are two colojji^ Fabius Maximus the cunbtator, and Archimides with a fquare in his hand. At each end of this crofs-walk, or terrace, which terminates the middle or principal one, is built a handfome ftone-work with niches and pediment fupported with pilaflers, contrived on purpofe to receive other pieces : in that oh the left hand, or north fide, is the tomb of the famous Germanicus, adorned with carving of bas-relief : upon it two admirable bufls of him and Agrippina his wife. Between thefe upon the tomb flands an altar-like pedeflal with a fmall and ancient flatue of Jupiter fitting. In the pediment over the arch is a curious piece of marble, whereon is raifed the upper part of a man with his arms and hands extended, and the impreffion likewife of a foot : this I fuppofe the

original

40

ITER II.

original ftandard of the Greek meafure. Upon the apex of the pediment is a fine ftatue of Apollo with the right arm naked, the other covered with a mantle : below the hips it ends in a terminus ; fo that it is an HermapoUon. In two niches here, are two large and curious trunks, as fine as the loquacious Pafquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two outermoft pi- lafters are two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of this terrace is an altar. At the other end of this crofs walk, under the ftone-work is a mar¬ ble chair with an infcription on the back of it, denoting that it belonged to the high-prieft of Ifis, as faid j for it is obliterated : it is remarkably eafy to fit on : the fides are embofl'ed with winged fphynges. On each fide of it are two fitting fragments. Upon the top of this ftone-work is a very large and curious Greek ftatue of Pallas, colofs proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet on her head, the Gorgonian on herbreaft: the very marble is not without its terror.

We fhall now pafs through the houfe. The hall is a fine lofty room : in the niches are feveral ftatues ; a Greek lady with her arms folded under the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfeftly feen through the robe ; Caius Marius in a fenatorial habit ; Cupid afleep, leaning on his torch : M. Antony, a naked figure j all thefe as big as the life : over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing the lion ; feven buftos, an excellent one of Pindar; one faid to be of Olympias, I fancied it Lucretia. By the great flairs, painted in frefco by Sir James Thornhill, two buflos, one of the Grecian Venus. In niches upon the flairs, fix flatues as big as the life : Diana in a hunting-habit, a tuck’d-up coat, bulkins of fkins ; a lady in Greek drapery; the Venus de Medicis ; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian bonnet, and odd flockings of the Dacian mode ; (this is a flatue of great antiquity ;) a nymph with a long flowing garment tied under the breafl, a fine turn of the body ; a man, the right Ihoulder naked. In the little dining-room, over the chimney, an antique marble vafe. In the green-houfe I fav/ thefe following ; a Flora, the upper part loft ; mofl: inimitable drapery to fliov/ the naked, like the celebrated one at Rome : a colofs head of Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the head three foot ; the body is faid to lie among many more under Arundel houfe in London ; the trunk of Camilla, both arms : a young Bacchus.

Towces- Towcefter is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity : through it in a flrait Ron^^^Uine runs the Watling-ftreet. Edward the elder built the mount called Berry hill when he fortified the town againft the Danes. Roman coins have been oft found at this place.* The inhabitants here, both old and .young, are very bufy in a filken manufadlure, and making of lace. This town has been ditched about on the weft fide; every where elfe guarded by the rivers.

Bucking¬

ham.

Alaun A.

TAB.

V. VI.

2d Vol.

From hence we went through fpacious woods to Buckingham. There was a caftle before the Conqueft, but now fcarce to be known. The church is well built, particularly the chancel : they fliowed us a place called St. Rumbald’s Ihrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptifl’s chapel, built, as faid, by archbifliop Becket, is now a free Ichool. From this place we travelled upon a Roman road.

Entering Oxfordlhire, we faw on our right the park called Caversfield, which antiquaries fay was the place where Alledfus flew Caraufius. This is near Bicefler, which I vifited big with expedlation of finding fomewhat confiderable from a conflux of towns’ names that promifed much. I

obferved

_ * The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, feveral Roman coins found in this city; a very fair fiver Hadrian, imp. caisar traian hadrianvs avg. reverfe, a fitting iigure. pm trp cos. hi.

Pr0p€6t of /?tar . ^laima..

I

41

ITER II.

obferved Lawnton hard by, which feemed to confirm Mr. Baxter’s conjec¬ ture of Alauna hereabouts. Chefterton, Aldchefter, and Wandlebury, were fpecious marks for enquiry ; but I find they all depend upon Ald¬ chefter, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamefe, Branavis, Alauna ; of all which I fhall give an account in this journey.

South of Bicefter about a mile, two Roman roads crofs one another at akeman- right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow j the Akeman- street. ftreet running eaft and weft, and another diredtly north and fouth : the firft comes out of Buckinghamftiire, I imagine from Fenny Stratford through Window ; palTes by here at Longford, over Bicefter river, under the north fide of Gravenhall hill ; fo proceeds by Aldchefter, Kirklington, to Wood- ftock park, and fo to Cirencefter : the other crofles it at Aldchefter, run¬ ning directly through the middle of the city j then through the fouthern meadow belonging to Wandlebury, where it is vifible enough to a nice eye, the grafs being poor, and much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth : then entering a pafture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the fides : it leaves Marton on the eaft and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved with great broad ftones its whole breadth j then proceeds the length of Ottmore, a fpacious level, marfh or meadow, two or three miles together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many Houghs ; then through Beckly by the park wall j then under Shotover hill, and fo, I fuppofe, pafies the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chefterton and Bicefter, where the ftones it is compofed of may be feen in the little ditches they have dug upon each fide ; then it enters the lane, and goes on the weft fide of Bicefter town, at fome little diftance, and ftrait forwards on the eaft of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley, where many Roman coins have been found ; and fo to Radley by Buckingham, being now the great high l oad between the two towns, of which we may fay, in the poet’s words,

Scilicet bac avi Jiravit longinqua vetujlasy

Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea flrata jacent I

The city called now Aldchefter is a parcel of ploughed field, on the fouth fide of the Akeman way, a mile at leaft fouth of Bicefter : it ftands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more efpecially ftretching itfelf north and fouth of the city. I know not whether the ground which is the fite of the city be naturally higher, or raifed by the ruins and rubbifli thereof : but, if any, this deferves to be called urbs pra- tenjis. I can fcarce believe that this meadow was fo fubjedl to inundations as now, at the time of fetting the city here ; and I never obferved the like pofition elfewhere, when there is higher ground near enough : it may be thought rather a city of pleafure than ftrength. A very little way off to the eaft is Gravenhall hill, a copped hill curioufly covered with wood and hedge-rows : beyond it is Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded at top with one of their camps. A little brook comes from Chefterton, a mile off, and runs on the fouth fide of the city j for between that