fy tht of obs ee Bers : i t e x eo LETTERS FROM THE UNITED STATES, CUBA.AND CANADA VOL. I. A ig ‘Nene oy WSSU AN a Hee She Od > LETTERS FROM THE UNITED STATES, CUBA AND CANADA BY THE HON. AMELIA M. MURRAY IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I~ LONDON JOHN W. PARKER AND SON WEST STRAND _ 1856 [The Author reserves the right of Translation} RT es wee Ont emery ere te +. & aga te a S Sra & 7 nm 5 Qa ° L a = CONTENTS OF VOL. I. LETTER I. The Voyage to Halifax—Our Fellow-passengers—A novel Reviver, pp. 1-6 LETTER II. Boston—The Harbour—The First Luxury—Mount Auburn Cemetery— My Present Plans—The Athensum—Pleasant Location—‘ Look-out for the Locomotive’—An Agreeable Introduction—Botanical Researches, , . pp. 7-28 LETTER III. Wenham Lake— Cockle-Craft— Eagle Head — Boston — Statue of Washington — Newport —Water Quadrilles—A New Vegetable— American Kindness—Dr. Howe . . . . «. « «© Pp. 29-44 LETTER IV. Boston—The Slavery Question. . . . « «. « « « pp. 45-48 LETTER V. The White Mountains Tour—Railway Arrangements—Alton Bay—The Paper Birch—Centre Harlbour—New Acquaintance—Mount Willard —A Hasty Judgment—The Hotel House—The Profile House— Borest Fires. 5 6 2 we ee ce we oe ee SPP 49-09 vi CONTENTS, gteecaumace LETTER VI. Pleasant Rambles—The Flume—An Evening Party—The White Moun- tains—Pemmewhasset—Wells River—An Early Breakfast—Bur- lington—Connecticut River—Rattlesnakes—Quebec—Night Voyage —Spencer Wood , , TOES eV ee pada LETTER VII. Quebec—Spencer Wood-—A Comparison—A Paradox—Lord Elgin— The House of Deputies—The Premier's Speech—Deeds, not Words— —Monsieur Brodeur—Inconsistencies , ‘+ 4 6 + PP. 79-096 LETTER VIII, Quebec—The Clergy Reserves—The Industrial Exhibition—A Malcon- tent—A Botanical Excursion— Curious Meteoric Light—Visit to o Squaw—Variable Weather—Canadian Pensioners—Lord Elgin— Canadian Ladies . . , , ce © 6 © 6 6 Pp Op=rs8 LETTER IX, Montreal—Victoria Bridge—St. Hilair-—A Pretty Edifice—Silver Heights—Ottawa River—Le Petite N ation—The Massacre—Natural History—Falls of the Ottawa—Officious Care—A Field for Enter- Ee Oe MEE) oy perma LETTER xX, Lake Ontario—Rideau Canal— Autumn Forest-Tints—Lord Elgin— Seat of Government—The Future of Canada—River St. Lawrence— Primitive Locomotion— Rice Lake—Toronto—Toronto Cathedra]— Demonstration at Hamilton—Milton— Falls of Niagara—A Profitable Mii... 1 8 ew 8 8 RT IRIS White Moun- kfast—Bur- ight Voyage Pp. 63-78 rd Elgin— ot Words—. PP. 79-96 A Malcon- Visit to a Elgin— D». 97-118 e—Silver —Natural rx Enter- 119-138 Elgin— yrence— 1edral— rofitable 39-160 CONTENTS, vii SS AeA esheets SSNS eS emp LETTER XI. Niagara—Manners of the Squaws—An Old Irishwoman—Lakes Brie and St, Clair—Detroit—A perfect Panorama—Sandwich—A Peni- tent Runaway—Scarcity of Servants—Cleveland—Battle of the Alma—Cayuga Lake—Ithaca—‘ Forest City’—Homer, pp. 161-182 LETTER XII. Albany—Governor Seymour—A Transatlantic Wedding—-The Museum —The Slave Problem—the American Clergy—The Penitentiary— Indian Thanksgivings—Origin of the Party Names—A Paternal Governor—A Manxman—Youthful Heroism—Community of Shakers —The Letter of the Law—Probabilities . . . . pp. 183-211 LETTER XIII. New York—The Broadway—Greenwood Cemetery—Rev. H, Beecher —Philanthropic Institutions—Social Engagements—Doctrine of Com- pensations—The Maine Law—Washington Irving—An Unbiassed Testimonial—Sectarian Assumption—Hopes for the Future, Pp. 212-235 LETTER XIV. New York—The Five Points—Dogmatism—Baltimore—Sisters of Charity—Washington—The Capitol and Museum—N egroes and their Masters—A Motley Assemblage—-The Twig and Tree, pp. 236-252 LETTER XV, The New Year—Washington and André—Character of the ‘Know. nothings’—Occupation of Congress—Smithsonian Institute—Woman’s Mission—Cuba and her Wrongs—A Questionable Alternative—A OMNES oy ob a ce ek + Pp. 253-269 ea Vili CONTENTS, Selanne deseo, ——. LETTER XVI. Washington—Papal Jurisdiction—Extinction of the Tribos—Pregi. dential Evening—Mormon Domesticity—Offers of Marriags—Charac- Incidents—Statue of Washington—-Genera] Dilapidation—Charlottes. ville—The University—Road to the Road—The Natural Bridge—Scenery on the Powhattan—Geolo- gical Features-—Links Canal-boat—Petersburg—Wilmington—Mr. Cushing on the War—Superior Cultivation—Black Servants, PP. 271-299 LETTER XVII, Cholestown—:Masters and Slaves—‘ Uncle Tom's Cabin’—Darkies ag Nurses—North and South—Negro Characteristics—The Tillandsia Usnoides—Botanizing— Magnolia Cemetery—Southern Habite—Bel- mont —Observations on Slavery . . . * + «© PP. 300-320 vy aan rib-s—Pregi. 1¢2—Charac- | Franklin— -Unrleasant —Charlottes- —Perils on tan—Geolo- ngton—Mr, ervants, P. 271-299 A Darkies ag Tillandsia \bits—Bel- » 300-320 a cao LETTER I. THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX. On Boarp tHE Canapa, Banxs or Newrounpanp, July 29, 1854. . My pbear Friznps,— A week ago, on the 22nd, we left the Mersey at 11 o’clock a.m.; but this is the first moment that head, hands, and eyes have been willing to work together for the purpose of writing. Captain Stone says we may put letters into a bag at Halifax, and that we are likely to arrive there on Monday night or Tuesday morning, so I will try to have this ready. Good, kind Mr. and Mrs. Rathbone had ex- hausted every possible thought for my present and future comfort; and Mr. Rathbone crowned all by conveying me to the steamer in the Jackal mail tender at the last moment, that I might not spend a single unnecessary hour on board. The sun shone cheerily, the lively breeze was but just sufficient to give a gay jaunty air to flags VOL. I. B ° SS ! i 2 THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX. UPSD Peamecemunratorcee ee, eS and sails, and no sensation, either sad or nervous, affected me, to mar the pleasant scene. I found my two companions already in the ship, and my _case of plants happily established behind the wheel. house, where the stcersman sits comfortably shel- tered, and almost hidden from view, I arranged my cushions, cloaks, and books on the deck, so as to make me a back of the mizen-mast, and in the persuasion that I was about to pass a most agreeable and intellectual afternoon, I sat down to enjoy myself, with Mrs, F by my side. I had often heard of the Bell buoy, but no very particular idea had ever been suggested by its name. In the reality, however, there was something very solemn and affecting — its deep-measured musical sound booming over the sea. It called up the first sadden- ing thought that had yet crossed my imagination— the thought, that for how many gallant ships that had gone forth, hopeful and cheerful as our own, had it tolled a knell ! The wind freshened, the motion deepened, and in less than an hour my companion was compelled to desert me. I endeavoured to preserve a stout opinion of my own good sailorship, and opened a book, but as that demanded too much attention, I changed it for the Illustrated London News, of which I accomplished one column, and then tried a nap. Thus I maintained my position till about CAT SENNA: aR, MN MRO = Teri “Re St Waa ae Nae Seg Oo @ or nervous, I found p, and my the wheel- ably shel- oks on the -mast, and SS @ most t down to 2. I had particular In the y solemn al sound it sadden- ination— hips that our own, l, and in pelled to a stout pened a mtion, I Vews, of | tried a ] about Av iyst ei quee reheat eietlaoneetedsere reine OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 3 hii eetioniniiet esis iat three o’clock, when no resolution would longer avail, and I was forced to call for help. I almost threw myself into the arms of the stewardess, who still asserts that I am an excellent sailor ; I am willing to believe her, as I never arrived at the conclusion of most great sufferers, that it would be a mercy to throw me overboard; and on Monday I created quite a sensation among the stewards in the saloon, by appearing ready dressed for breakfast soon after seven o’clock, oblivious of the fact, that eight o’clock soon becomes seven in crossing the Atlantic. How- ever, no harm was done. I sat down, and found myself able to read through the Illustrated News, which had become incomprehensible to me at the second page on Saturday ; and, though that was the extent of my literary efforts for twenty-four hours, I hailed it as a symptom of convalescence. My friends on board were still hors de combat, and did. not revive to any enjoyment of existence until two days later. On Tuesday, Hugh Miller’s Schools and Schoolmasters became a source of great plea- sure to me; and to-day I can write as well as read without inconvenience. There are not more than three: or four English among our fellow-passengers, Canadians, Germans, French, but chiefly Americans, make up a hundred guests, entertained in the chief saloon by our captain. Not more than twenty of these are women, There are Seventy-four second- B2 coer torment peperererer one ween went cee eerie reemmmmpernee arene + Saori naan Sete + ~ yeoman eetepenany } sere “pr gag igi i 4 THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX. itnioenerteiaetainenceineetutecateasdiocatiitnicesc cg i class passengers besides. All are kind, sociable, and gentlemanly. Three of the men were formerly known to my friend, Mrs. F , and I am be- coming well acquainted with them. It is very agreeable, as well as useful, to have some gentlemen in the party from whom we can ask and receive kind offices without scruple; and when these are bestowed by men of cultivated minds and Christian courtesy, improvement as well as pleasure must be the result of the voyage. Sunday, July 30.—Such a lovely morning. Air enough, sun enough, sea enough. But I missed seeing three whales, and also a sight of the Asia steamer on her way to Liverpool, by my doubts as to the propriety of making my appearance on deck soon after five in the morning, as I did yesterday. Captain Stone, however, promised to send a mes- senger to my cabin-door on future occasions of the same kind. We have had two magnificent sunsets on the passage—one last night and one on Thursday. I had never till now beheld the sun go down without a cloud, or a speck of land in sight. It was very striking. A young silvery moon stood just above us, and the scene reminded me of Turner’s picture, ‘The Old Téméraire.’ It seems we passed Newfoundland early in the morning, and I would have ‘turned out’ to see it, had a > ft Fr ciable, and > formerly I am be- It is very gentlemen ind receive _ these are | Christian e must be ing. Air ; I missed the Asia doubts as e on deck yesterday. d a mes- ms of the S on the rsday. I n without was very ust above S picture, ‘ly in the ee it, had A NOVEL REVIVER. 5 I known in time. Yesterday we were on the Banks, and saw one schooner drawing up cod-fish out of the water. Some fog attended our passage over these Banks, which are so called because soundings can be made over them, while the main sea is unfathomable. Health is now restored to the passengers. . ia a bank of clouds, and a a rs rent bet tah Oy Om ar Om 6 THE VOYAGE TO HALIFAX, eo we have had some wind and rain in the night ; find. ing my berth close, I was on deck very early. The captain of an American merchant ship showed me a Mother Cary’s chicken, which was flying just above the water near us, He gave a decided opinion that the best manner of combating sea-sickness is by de- termined exertion, and by getting up as soo sible after the first attack. He says the is equally great whether it is made the second day or the twentieth: he has known people keep their bed eighteen days, and suffer Just as much at the ] end of that time in their attempts to as they could have done Seventeen days sooner; so that the earlier the battle is begun the sooner it is over. This morning there is more se have yet had, and I bear it well. that we may reach Halifax late this haps not till eight or nine o’clock in t shall be sorry if the hour will not allow us to land ; but I am told that it is a custom among the inhabi- tants to light up their houses when the arrival of the steamer is known, and that will be a pretty sight, In case I should not be able to add to this letter, I will conclude it now. 0 as pos- first effort sit upright a than we It is expected afternoon, per- he evening. [I Yours affectionately, A. M. M. —_— > A CC ee eee ee ee |) Dm twat 2D 2 Ly ight ; find. arly. The Owed me a just above pinion that 8 is by de- on as pos- first effort econd day keep their ich at the it upright boner ; so oner it is than we expected oon, per- hing. J to land ; > inhabi-« Tival of ty sight, letter, I LETTER II. BOSTON. On Boarp THE Canapa, August 1, 1854. NDS,— o pe ae sie put into the ‘ahip bag batho we arrived in the fine Bay of ey) about nie o’clock last evening. An hour earlier we th have seen the town and distant country to grea ie advantage; but it would have been panier indeed to require more, when we vey alre : blessed by so much. An off-shore wind, ‘soft an balmy ; the sea like an inland lake, reflecting, bs : a golden mirror, each little ute, brilliant pat ; fy) light, derived from moon or lighthouse, o ' lamp; a full round red sun nee =e behin on town and bay, but he left behind in an ho 8 twilight of crimson and gold, which had ~~ vanished before our ship touched the move Scotian shore. We made a party for walking about Halifax by moonlight. The streets appear to a sist of rather irregular, low houses, built chiefly o = rime Arnett oe penning wt nen een 8 BOSTON. long thin boards, called « clap-boards” with shingle roofs. I am told these houses are painted bright colours, but it was too dark to see this, We stumbled along the dimly lighted streets, and at last took our way up a steep one, which led to the Battery Hill. From thence we had a fine moonlight view of the town and bay. We also saw the supports of the electric telegraph, and passed by two chapels, and some trees of a kind there was not sufficient light to recognise, but my companions thought they were the Button wood (Platanus). There was music in some of the houses—universally Scotch airs— J ohnny Cope,’ ‘ Annie Laurie,’ &c., &e. Asa Scctchwoman, I felt sure of a welcome, if I had wished to intrude upon the performers, We returned to the Canada before she fired her guns to announce our approaching departure. The echo of these guns was the loudest and finest I ever heard, reverberating like thunderclaps all down the coast, We steamed forth about eleven o’clock, J upiter in the east, and the whole sky bright with the brightest stars, and meteors could be seen frequently striking across the heavens, About twelve we were asleep in our berths, and I slept late; but it is a beautiful morning, so that we can walk the deck and admire the still sea and the coming shore. Our last dinner was all conviviality and merriment, every- body complimented everybody, and particularly the ne ith shingle ited bright this. We ts, and at ich led to ad a fine e also saw passed by re was not mpanions Platanus). niversally ie,’ &e., elcome, if ers. We r guns to e echo of er heard, he coast. upiter in ith the equently we were it is a leck and » Our » every- arly the THE HARBOUR. 9 captain; and most of us agree it will be useless to go to bed again, certainly not to sleep, so impatient are we for the first sight of Boston, which is expected to be visible at sunrise. August 3.—I think the Bay of Boston must be as wide as that extending from the island of Portland to the Start, in England. Nearing the harbour, I expected to see trees, but the low downs and nume- rous islands which surround it, though green, are bare of anything but houses. It is the finest harbour I have yet seen, and I should imagine might be made as impregnable as Cronstadt, if as many batteries were planted upon its numerous islands— one only, defends the entrance. I now feel as if everything round me belonged to some of the Lei- cester-square life-like Panoramas ; my voyage seems a dream, and facts wnreal. Once in the harbour, if blinded and turned twice round, it would be difficult to say at which point we became embayed and surrounded by the islands and capes—vessels sailing about, or at anchor, in every direction. Owing to our quick voyage, the Niagara, (sister of Canada,) which leaves at twelve to-day, for Liverpool, had not vacated her berth; therefore our captain was obliged to lay-to, and await her departure. We arrived about nine o’clock, and the Custom-house appeared to ignore our presence for some time; in fact, I suppose they would rather not have us upon their 10 BOSTON, hands till they get rid of the other two Cunard steamers, the Niagara and the Alps; and it was an hour or two before a Tug came to take luggage and passengers ashore. This was not objectionable to me, because it gave me time enough to look about ; but it was trying to Mrs. F » Who had brothers and sisters waiting to receive her, after five years’ absence. The first thing which charmed me on landing was the cleanliness of the wharves, and the complete absence of sea or harbour odours, No sensation reminded one of departed miseries ; in this, Boston has a great advantage over Dover and Folkestone, where one is made sensible (in some degree at all times, and specially at low tide), of a commingling of mud, gas, and sewers which is cer- tainly not consoling for the past, or promising for the future. The Custom-house officers were civil. and obliging, bothering us as little as possible; but the large number of passengers coming and going, and an avalanche of boxes and packages, made it impossible, even for Americans, to ¢ g0 a-head ;’ and so we had to wait for three mortal hours in the chairs they set for us, under a tolerably cool shed. Mrs. F *s brother, Mr, C » then procured a carriage, and cart for our baggage, and I was taken to the Tremont Hotel, in their way to his house in Chesnut-street, found a pleasant drawing-room for the occupation of ladies, and bed-rooms for self Fo i SRT PURER Aten canene Ph oan Peer ee Vamenta —_ gar ee ee ee ae ~>_- m~ _ «2 TMNT SS ARs ara oa aS nS pd lll Nee a gS re wo Cunard d it was an iggage and tionable to 0k about ; d brothers five years’ d me on 8, and the urs, No 3; in this, Over and (in some ide), of a h is cer. ‘ising for ere Civil. ble 3 but d going, made it a-head ;? ‘'s in the 1 shed. rocured is taken Ouse in g-room for self THE FIRST LUXURY. II and maid, anda kind fellow-passenger to take charge of me at the table-d’héte. I found excellent cu- cumbers, boiled maize, undressed tomatos, baked fish, and lobsters—pleasant cool diet to a person suddenly plunged into a heat beyond our most ex- treme dog-days. The first luxury I welcomed with gratitude was the abundance of ice—a jug of iced water placed even in my bedroom—on the table of the ladies’ saloon, and everywhere at meals. After dinner, Mr. D was so obliging as to procure tickets for a garden, five or six miles off, belonging to Myr. Cushing, and also for Auburn Cemetery. Mr. Cushing’s flower-garden and houses are considered the finest in New England ; but they were not beyond a third-rate or fifth-rate in our old country. The fruit- houses seemed in good order—the flower-houses not more than tolerable; I saw no plants that were not old acquaintances of mine in most of our gardens, with the exception of one, a creeping annual or biennial, which had been allowed to ramble over the flower- beds; the gardener (a young Irishman) could not tell the name of it. Its foliage and buds looked like a soft woolly convolvulus, the flowers double, each separate one, when plucked, in size and form like a flaccid pink Soapwort. The gardener told me of two pretty wild plants which had particularly struck him in the neighbourhood ; from his descrip- tion one might be a Saracenia, the other some 12 BOSTON, species of Ornithogalon. I asked Captain Stone’s hospitality for my precious Ward’s case of plants on board the Canada till I can make the acquaintance of Dr. Gray, to whom I Wish to consign them. They have flourished since their emigration, as all plants in hermetically sealed cases do flourish, My American friend, after our visit to the garden, conveyed me to Mount Auburn Cemetery, that last resting-place for humanity, an example of what I hope, some day to see copied in the neighbourhood of London, In feeling and taste it is really perfect. No crowding up in disgusting heaps like our own churchyards, Shade, elegance, and that stillness so soothing to the grief, the recollections, and the hearts of surviving friends—a place interesting to strangers, and not disagreeable even to the young and gay. The burying-ground of each family is as nearly as possible alike in size, all fenced off by strong but neat and pretty iron railings, with small gates; over the front of every entrance, simple surnames and Christian names belonging to first pur- chasers, with dates, all in iron 3 each family is per- mitted to place monuments and tombs within its own enclosure. TI do not know if there is any ol cck which may stop the exercise of atrociously bad taste ; but by some means or other this must be effected, for all ‘the tombs are simple and inoffensive, and some of the monuments beautiful. I was surprised NS ain Stone’s f plants on cquaintance them, They s all plants the garden, y, that last of what I hbourhood lly perfect. » our Own tillness so and the resting to he young mily is ag sd off by rith small y simple first pur- ly is per- rithin its cheek uu taste ; effected, jive, and surprised MOUNT AUBURN CEMETERY. 13 to see that a few were protected by glass, particu- larly one pretty recumbent statue of a child. Nearly all the erections are pure white marble; generally low obelisks or slabs. I saw not one objectionable in fecling or in taste, and no pompous fulsome epi- taphs. ‘Implora Pace’ might have been inscribed over the entrance of this cemetery, without causing any revulsion of sentiment within its precincts ; in this matter, certainly, the mother land may well take some hints from her child’s example. As we drove away a man offered a bunch of water-lilies for sale (or rather buds which are to open to-morrow). My companion gave me three. He tells me they have long- shaped, sweet white blossoms ; and the stems are very long. I saw no leaves; but it is certainly not our Thames white water-lily; this one is Nymphza odorata. Last night the closed buds looked too firmly shut for me to see them soon open, but even before sunshine has touched them, at eight o’clock this morn- ing, they are wide awake. I see no difference between them and ours, except that the petals are longer and more pointed, but they have a much more pleasant scent. Our drive was through a thickly-inhabited suburb, going by Brookline and returning by Cam- bridge and Harvard College; one country house and villa succeeding another. The architecture and ele- vations, and green external blinds, make them much resemble houses around Frankfort ; but apparently 14 BOSTON. ibaa they have arisen go fast, that there has not been time enough ‘to ornament the gardens with flowers 7 8 rather rough lawn, with a few shrubs, chiefly Arbor vite. and Pinus, perhaps a tree Hibiscus here and there, was most commonly all. The gener.l aspect of Boston, with the exception of a few of the prin- cipal houses, says, ‘We have been in such a hurry, we must finish by-and-by” But T don’t dislike the » & granite, of which some of them are built. When of brick, in this neighbourhood, the colour is more pink and less glar- ing than ours. Soon after my return to the hotel, Miss C came, and brought a sister, sister-in-law, and a nephew to see me 3 and afterwards Mr, D—__ introduced Mr. and Mrs. Mills (the latter a daughter of a benevolent agriculturist, Mr, Colman, who died in England); on her return home, she kindly sent me a beautiful nosegay, and this morning Mr, D—-, before his departure for New York, left me two more letters of introduction for Nahant, where I think of going this afternoon, as I find My. and Mrs. Longfellow are there, and I much wish to see them ; besides which, this town is like a bakery, it is so hot. I shall probably visit Mr. and Mrs, B—_, at Newport, in a day or two. The cholera is said to he raging at Montreal and Quebec, so I shall not hurry myself to get there ; and I shall wish rather to linger among the valleys and hills of the Connec- , ™ eg engl mee ae eae a ray sidan ameeeere 1ot been time | flowers; a thiefly Arbor us here and ner .l aspect of the prin- ch a hurry, ; dislike the granite, of rick, in this id less glar- ) the hotel, ster-in-law, My. Da. a daughter , who died indly sent ning Mr, k, left me nt, where Mr. and sh to see cery, it is » B——., is said to hall not h rather Connec. MY PRESENT PLANS. 15 ticut River, after leaving Newport : then I an to Me the White Mountains; and my present idea is i reach Washington by the opening of wwaeaiag bes December, and afterwards travel southwards to a ginia, Louisiana, Florida, and perbiaps Soh . accomplish this tour successfully, I imagine be | be pleasant to follow the spring of 1855, nort a ; chiefly for the sake of botanical researches, and then to return to Boston in June or July, aeben be sal spend my remaining three months either in this town, or its neighbourhood. Of course, my i say be modified or changed, but it otters a prospect o much interest and amusement. Rie Charles pews the late governor of Jamaica, wns jomied our ship’s company at Halifax, and is now in this house, re plains of the frigidity of winter, even in the southern parts of the States, and strongly recommends me to take shelter in Florida, where he says I shall find warmth and amusement for a few weeks ; bub pro- bably, after so many years passed in tropical climes, his coustitution is more sensitive to cold than mine. Boston, August 4.—A delightful day yesterday. Too tired to write my letter, and get to breakfast, much before ten o’clock. I was not dressed when Mr. Mills sent up his card. He said he aha - later; and while I breakfasted, Mrs. F 8 brother Mr. C. C , came to me, both offering services ; then came Mr, F——, Miss C , and F es 16 BOSTON. ill ei received a very kind farewell note from a friend (who left Boston for New York at six o’clock), with some letters and notes of introduction, My first imme- diate object being Dr, Gray and the Botanical Garden at Cambridge, Mr, Dwight (a former acquaintance in London), and Mr. R. C. C accompanied ‘me there. My expectations were not at all disappointed : I met with a hearty welcome, and all the infor- mation, and enthusiasm for plants, I desired to find. With the intention of returning to dinner here at two o’clock, I found it more than half-past before I thought of leaving the Garden, and I then made an appointment to meet my Ward’s case of plants at Dr. Gray’s house by nine o’clock this morning. Upon looking over the lists, nearly all the plants I have brought are new to him ; Weigelia rosea and Deutzia scabra he has, so they will belong to Mrs, Bees T learnt much botanically, and have pro- mises of aid; the trees in this Garden interested me deeply—so many are quite new to me. One or two of them I am sure would do at Abbots. bury, particularly the beautiful Virgilia lutea. I saw such pretty mallows,—in short, I felt as if trans. ported to the Fairyland of Flowers. Newport this week is out of the question, for Dr, Gray has proposed botanizing over part of this country with me 3 SO we are going to have a walk to-morrow, and we are to go to Nahant, and perhaps I shall stay there a few a friend (who k), with some ly first imme- anical Garden acquaintance ompanied ‘me lisappointed : 1 the infor- [ desired to . dinner here f-past before [ then made se of plants is morning. the plants I 4 rosea and ng to Mrs, 1 have pro- . interested me. One at Abbots- tea. I saw 3 if trans- wport this S proposed ne; sO we we are to lere a few THE ATHENZUM. 17 days. Iam told I shall find good sketching, and Mr. and Mrs. Longfellow and Professor Agassiz are there. We returned to the Tremont Hotel, and afterwards Mr. D took me to call at Mr. Eliot’s, Mr. Ticknor’s, and Mr. Abbot Lawrence’s, and then showed me the Atheneum (the finest architectural building in Boston), where there are public reading-rooms, a good library, and some tole- rable pictures, particularly two unfinished heads of Washington and his wife, by Stewart. I admire Alston’s portraits, but not much his landscapes ; per- haps those I have seen were not his best. There is a statue of Washington in the entrance which looks like a French caricature, the head thrown back in a forced ungraceful way; but there is one on the oppo- site side, of a well-looking man—celebrated here but unknown to me, so I have forgotten his name,—an evi- cently truthful resemblance ; it sits in an easy con- templative attitude, with an expression of countenance so very like the venerable Mrs. Fletcher, of Grasmere, that I could fancy him her father. Our dinner- hour was long past at the Tremont Hotel, but I got something from a long printed bill of fare, which is struck off each day, and some refreshing lemonade. I remember reading somewhere, that English people, who are used to good servants, must make up their minds to be indifferently waited on in America, but at present here I should rather complain of being VOL. I. c 18 BOSTON. Ciecners ee ae too much attended to. The waiters seem innumerable, and at least two are constantly on the look-out to find out the requirements of a guest. I mentioned three times this morning that, having been supplied with tea and rolls, and broiled salmon_and broiled mackerel, I required nothing more, but still an at- tendant was always at my elbow in two minutes after I had civilly dismissed him ; and as board, and I believe all payments, must be included in the five dollars a day for self and maid, their attentions are not individual affairs, ©, F came at seven o’clock to conduct me to his aunt’s family tea. I found his mother in the midst of brothers, sisters, nephews and nieces, in a room with a verandah, vine-embowered, and the bunches of grapes hanging thickly above it,—a cheerful, pleasant party of young and old, we remained together till past eleven o’clock, when my host, Mr. E. C , and his sisters, walked back with me, about half-a-mile, to my hotel. The air was pleasantly warm and balmy; only one individual crossed our path, but I heard the persevering cricket grating away from many an Althea frutex, which forms the principal ornament of the tiny gardens before most of the houses, Saturday, August 4.—Here am T—] don’t know where! for I am writing the first thing in the morning, and such was my interest and pre-occupa- tion and delight at the wholly unexpected beauty ; Bi & na iB : See ee 1 innumerable, e€ look-out to I mentioned been supplied n.and broiled it still an at- two minutes as board, and ed in the five ittentions are me at seven mily tea. I thers, sisters, a verandah, ipes hanging ot party of | past eleven d his sisters, nile, to my balmy F only [ heard the 1 many an al ornament Uses, don’t know ing in the pre-occupa- ted beauty a 4 4 : oe y “al a a a BY, : PLEASANT LOCATION. 19 of this place last night, that I did not ask its name. Imagine scenery more like Mount Edgecumbe than anything else I ever saw or heard of in Great Bri- tain; only with few ships on the sea. Pines and cypresses, and shrubs of the (to me) rarest descrip- tion, growing down to the very margin of the pic- turesque jagged shore, with grey and red porphyry rocks starting up on all sides, even from the very door of Mr. L ’*s charming cottage,—Cherokee-roses and honeysuckles on the verandah; various plants and shrubs, and even blackberries new to me, one with a delicious fruit, something between blackberry, mul- berry, and raspberry in flavour (Rubus villosus, high blackberry), rambling over the grey boulders, and in front a sea studded by islands. In the evening there was a glowing sunset on the land side, Jupiter, amidst the eastern constellations, shining over the bright calm sea; imagine also the air just freshened by a shower, and you may form some idea of the enjoyments I had in a moonlit walk with Dr. and Mrs. Gray last night. But I must try and give some rational account of how and why I find myself some- where near Beverley, in the United States, instead of at Nahant. This place is called Glencove, and the one adjoining, where Mr. L ’s son lives, is Burnside. I find it difficult to write, and even to dress, the view from my bed-room window is so attractive. The pleasure-ground below, upon a C2 20 BOSTON. (races tin liansahictalaintilndnarsse-ninenainsinagig rough hill, which descends rapidly to the sea, is sprinkled over by apparently upheaved granitic boulders, interspersed with Pinus rigida, Junipers, a large shrubby white-leaved honeysuckle, fine fruit- ing rubuses, roses, and various kinds of wild flowers new to me; the shore, with occasional dark masses of volcanic strata bursting through the rocks ; a bay dotted by islands, some with buildings on them, and one having a tall lighthouse ; ships and little boats sailing about in all directions; a long promontory stretching to the south between this place and Nahant; the weather warm enough to have windows wide open all night, and yet not the least oppressive ; with all this to distract, you may wonder that I do get dressed soon after seven—the breakfast hour of my hospitable entertainers, I must go back to the time when R and I left Boston yesterday morning. We drove to Dr. Gray’s soon after nine o’clock, my purpose being to open the Ward’s case of plants with him, and then to proceed to the hotel at Nahant to stay a day or two. I found Mrs. Gray, who was absent yester- day, had kindly come home to meet me. She and her husband, whose acquaintance was my first wish in America, and whose scientific knowledge can only be exceeded by his kindness, had prepared a pleasant surprise for me by arranging with her father and Mrs. L—— for my reception here. They proposed ) the sea, is ved granitic da, Junipers, le, fine fruit- wild flowers dark masses ‘ocks ; a bay m them, and _ little boats promontory place and ave windows Oppressive ; er that I do fast hour of —— and I ove to Dr. se being to a, and then uy a day or ent yester- She and first wish e can only a pleasant ather and y proposed ‘LOOK OUT FOR THE LOCOMOTIVE.’ 21 my accompanying them, after he had facilitated my trip to Nahant, to visit Mr. and Mrs. Longfellow, and to make the acquaintance of Mr. D ’s brother and sister-in-law, to whom he had given me a letter of introduction. He drove back to Boston, and I made my first American railway journey for a few miles only, as far as Lynn. I found the long gallery carriages comfortable and airy, the communication from one part of the train to the other complete and easy, and although passing across the strects and roads without tunnels or barriers is rather alarming, yet, as the engines have a large bell, and great boards are placed all across with notices to look out, and not cross while the bell is heard, I suppose that in- dividual caution may avoid a smash; but sad acci- dents do sometimes happen. Two young ladies driving in an open carriage near this place, last year, being interested in their own conversation, were thrown off their guard, when a train came upon them, One was killed on the spot, and the other never re- covered the shock. I found a gigantic ugly hotel at Nahant marring the beauty of its situation: it is a great boarding- house brimming over with company. I was received by Mrs. C. D , who engaged Dr. Gray and me to dine with her at the public table, at four o’clock, and di- rected us to Mr. Longfellow’s residence. We had passed the cottage, about a mile off, in our drive from 22 BOSTON. Dee ee ee Lynn ; so we got into the carriage which brought us, and, in pouring rain, retraced our way. We were cor. dially received by Mr. Longfellow, though Mrs, Long- fellow had not received a preparatory note, which had been forwarded, immediately upon our landing at Boston, to their house at Cambridge. After a short stay, he was so kind as to walk with me; and in a heavy rain he held an umbrella over my book, while I madea sketch of the rocks and bay. I thought several times, with alarm, how I should answer io the world if I were the cause of Mr. Longfellow catching his death ! particularly as he would 80 on in wet clothes to dine with us at the hotel ; but he assured me a brother was there who would let him take measures of prevention, and I was too happy to make a sketch honoured by such company and conversation. So it was done, in spite of rain as heavy as one of our heaviest thunder-showers in England, and I did not lament that my thin muslin dress was fairly soaked. But on reaching the hotel, Mrs. D ’*3- Welsh nurse (a Glamorganshire woman from near Cowbridge, who knew about all my friends there, and in conse. quence gave me sea-weeds she had preserved) afforded me the means of becoming tolerably dry before din- ner. This is the largest hotel I ever saw. When quite finished it will accommodate five hundred guests, It belongs to the same proprietor as Tremont House in Boston. I did not inquire the dimensons of the —~_ MSS Bp in re [a a ee ee, 7 ~~ eit A s. 1 brought us, We were cor- l Mrs. Long- €, which had ' landing at \fter a short id in a heavy ile I madea veral times, 2 world if I x his death ! clothes to ured me a € measures ke a sketch on. So it one of our lI did not rly soaked. ~s Welsh Jowbridge, in conse- l) afforded efore din- When ed guests, nt House ns of the AN AGREEABLE INTRODUCTION, 23 dinner-saloon, but I imagine that three of the size of the Kursaal dining-room at Homburg might be contained in it. Isat between Mrs. C. D and a gentleman,.to whom she introduced me: Mr. Long- fellow joined us after dinner. I was happy to see his coat was changed, a fact which, in some mea- sure, relieved my mind of the fear that I might be answerable for his death. If Dr. Gray had not so obligingly prepared the way for my escape to a residence more accordant with my tastes and pursuits, I doubt whether even the vicinity of friends could have reconciled me to a stay of more than one night at Nahant, though Mr. and Mrs. R. W. (he an old acquaintance in England) sent me a kind offer of the use of their sitting-room and carriage ; but a few hours was enough just to glimpse at the humours of the place, where I suppose a large number of the busy and the industrious come to en- joy relaxation and idleness. I ought to add that I was introduced to Chowder, a most praiseworthy preparation, enabling you to eat soup and‘fish at one time. , The rain had now subsided into a thick fog. Dr. Gray and I got into the Carry-all I had kept waiting to take us back to the railway station ; and in half an hour we arrived at a picturesque valley, surrounded by rich woods and tumbled-about sienitic rocks. Here Mrs. L ’s carriage (driven by a man who 24 BOSTON. had lived with the late Lord Camden) met us, and in a few minutes we reached Glencove, Its rare beauty was an unexpected surprise, for Dr, Gray had only promised me a quiet botanizing nook, His father and mother-in-law, with Mrs. Gray, received me with great kindness, My, L—— jg in the legal profession, A few years ago, when seeking repose and rest from over work, he accidentally stumbled upon this Place, purchased it from the farmer to whom it belonged, and built his comfort- able cottage, and one adjoining it for his eldest son, who is at present travelling in Europe with an invalid brother, having left a wife and three nice children at home. Mrs, Gray is staying with her, as well as a lady, who promises to induce her husband, a sculptor and an artist, in Boston, to come here, Besides a little boy and girl in this house, Mr, L—— has a large family of grandchildren, belonging to another married daughter, near at hand. Another of my acquaintances at home, Mr, F D ; lives within a short walk. After my arrival here, the weather was so obliging as to clear up, and I had a delightful scramble to the Eagle rock, where I yesterday made a sketch, for I am now filling up my letter on the 4th, Saturday, was a day of enjoy- ment. We breakfasted soon after seven o'clock, Perfect weather; not too hot: so that after wan- 3 dering about the grounds, Dr. and Mrs. Gray, and Se ) met us, and fe. Its rare for Dr. Gray nizing nook, Mrs. Gray, . L—— js in when seeking accidentally it from the his comfort- is eldest son, th an invalid ice children r, as well as husband, a come here, house, Mr, \, belonging l. Another se DD : rival here, and I had » where J ing up my of enjoy- n o’clock, after wan- Wray, and BOTANICAL RESEARCHES, 25 Mrs. L , took me a drive to see two lakes (or ponds as they call them here). Essex Pond is an almost exact counterpart of the lake at Longleat, only surrounded by more extensive forests, and with others, larger, in its neighbourhood. I sketched it, and afterwards Hamilton Lake from a distance, for we spent so much time in botanical researches, that we could not attempt to go farther. I gathered about forty plants quite new to me, and was parti- cularly pleased to find the Pontederia cordata, which we prize so much in the fountain at Abbotsbury, and the Rhexia virginica growing at the edge of the water, with quantities of the pretty little rare English plant Eriocaulon septangulare ;—it is such a pleasure and advantage to have the company of a botanist like Dr. Gray to give me at once the names of plants new to me, instead of spending perhaps hours in seeking them out. Among the most beautiful of these new acquaintances was Spirea tomentosa, a pink shrub, Osmunda spectabilis, and Leucocarpus conyzoides, and I was much pleased with a sweet Gale, larger and handsomer than ours, and quite as odoriferous. But I must add a list of plants to this letter, for those who care about them—though certain friends of mine will only be bored by their long names. We got back just in time to go and dine at Burnside with Mrs. W. L——. The view from her verandah and windows, looking across the 26 BOSTON, shonin bay towards Marblehead and Salem, and over Mr, L——’s garden, with a rocky cove below and the islands scattered about, was lovely beyond description. I have made a sketch which does not do it justice, Yesterday we went to church, about three miles’ dis- tance. The service was well conducted ; the con- gregation large; no signs of poverty; the people looking well-to-do, and even rich in appearance, The edifice very plain: all grey inside; behind the reading-desk and pulpit a large globe, painted in fresco, with clouds around, appearing as if being dispersed by the sun rising behind—emblematic, of course, and pleasingly executed: the roof went up into a large kind of open tower, finished at the top by a simple large white flower; blinds upon each window outside; a good organ; the singing well conducted; the hymns pretty. The minister preached, not extemporarily, from the text, ‘We must all appear before the judgment-seat of Christ.’ After dinner, Dr. Gray and Mrs. L—— took me to walk in a wild wood, chiefly of hemlock spruce and Weymouth pines; both are more beau- tiful here than they are in England; and the bold massy sienitic rocks, many of them covered by various-coloured lichens, among which were Tripe de Roche and Umbellicaria vellea, with its graceful black wreaths; the ground was tinted by over Mr, r and the escription, it justice, miles’ dis. the con- he people ypearance, ehind the ainted in if being matic, of went up it the top pon each ting well preached, must all — took hemlock sre beau- and the covered ch were with its inted by BOTANICAL RESEARCHES, 27 Reindcer moss, with its soft bluish grey; which with the bright scarlet berries of Comus Canadensis, dark- leaved Pyrolas, Gaultherias, Linnee borealis, twining in amongst them with white pipes of Monotropa uniflora peeping up from under rare ferns, and elegant Vaccineas, formed a foreground which, for softness and variety of colouring, exceeded aught I ever saw even in Scotland. In the forest we met a son-in- law of Mr. L ’s, Mr. J , botanizing with three boys, the youngest not more than seven, yet all appeared to take an eager and intelligent interest in the pursuit, and each was loaded with a splendid bouquet, from which they showed me a pretty new Asclepias (incarnata). Having now three strong arms to carry us through difficulties, Mrs. L—— and I got down a steep descent in the wood, and in a little opening below, we gathered Onoclea sensibilis, Osmunda spectabilis, and Veronica scutellata. I must finish this abruptly, as Mr. L—— tells us our letters must go now, to be ready for to-morrow’s post to England. Mrs. B ’s communication of August grd, that she would send to meet me on Saturday last, has only just arrived. I now propose to go to her at Newport on Thursday. Lord Elgin also writes that the accounts of the prevalence of cholera are exaggerated, and proposes to receive me at Spencer Wood, near Quebec. I think of going from 28 BOSTON, Newport, through the Valley of the Connecticut, to the White Mountains, and thence by Lake Champ- lain to Montreal; but I shall probably send off another letter from Newport. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. The sketching here is very interesting. August 9. Cc a @)e| =—= © tft = — A OO wt to oe Oe 6D onnecticut, to Lake Champ- ably send off LETTER III. NEIGHBOURHOOD OF WENHAM LAKE. GLENCOVE, August 10. My pear FRienps,— I am rather tormented by what are here called mosquitoes, but they are not a bit worse than our gnats and midges and harvest-bugs ; indeed, I doubt whether I could have frequented woods and bogs in England for as long together as the time I have passed these last few days in the forest, and by the sea and lakes here, without being more devoured; and as to really venomous reptiles, I have not stum- bled upon one: indeed, I have seen nothing dis- agreeable belonging to the animal world, and only one little dead snake, not much larger than our slow-worm, and, I am told, harmless. I hear of humming-birds occasionally on the honeysuckles, but it has not been my good fortune to see one; indeed, I have observed very few birds. There were two or three ycllow linnets, like canary birds, in the Botanic 30 WENHAM LAKE. Sn ee re eee Garden, and I heard one little warbler in. the morning from my window, but he sings very spar- ingly. The railroad is audible at times. I can hardly believe we are so near to the business side of life, from the quiet tranquillity immediately around ; though we can see towns on the distant shore, and vessels of all kinds on the sea. Soon after breakfast this morning, Mr. L up Mrs. W. L and me, driven by Mr. E ; to see Wenham Lake (or pond). It is a fine sheet of water, clear, and pure looking, about four miles round the banks 3 easy of access, and at each end are a number of wooden ice-houses; a railroad has been brought close up, for the purpose of easy transportation. Upon the pebbles at the edge of the water, we found two little opaque-looking, oblong eggs, supposed to belong to a small turile, I sketched the lake, but found few flowers, though, on our way home, we gathered Solidago Canadensis. After dinner Mr. and Mrs. L took me to call upon their daughter, Mrs. J——, and upon Mr. and Mrs. D » who have houses about a mile on the shore towards Beverley, but I think not quite so prettily situated as this cottage. In the evening, I wrote letters. We breakfasted at seven o’clock, as Mr. L went early into Boston. Sketched out of doors, after paying a visit to Mrs. W. L » who accompanied me with her cousins, Mrs, took bler in. the s3 very spar- nes. I can iness side of tely around ; t shore, and L Mr. E ; a fine sheet t four miles at each end railroad has ose of easy the edge of que-looking, mall turile, took ' though, on Canadensis, me to call on Mr. and ut a mile think not re. In the ed at seven to Boston. to Mrs. W. usins, Mrs, COCKLE-CRAFT. 31 G— and Mrs. L dinner: afterwards, Mrs. L drove with me to Mr. M ’s, to see Mrs, F—— and Miss C——. Quite a surprise to me to find them so near. It is ; and Dr. Gray returned to such aclear night, with a bright moon lighting up the islands. Three lighthouses are visible from these windows—Baker’s Island, Boston, and Marblehead ; the last only a revolving light. I forgot to mention that Mr. S. C—— gave me a very curious animal production, a kind of elegant little vase, about two or three inches across, the colour and substance of fine grey cloth, edged in scalloped plaits, which were very gracefully formed out of sand and an adhesive substance. It is supposed to be the work of some kind of cockle by the sea-shore, for the purpose of catching and confining its usual food. Much care will be necessary to carry this fra- gile curiosity safely to England; and I am doubtful how to preserve my two little turtle’s eggs; they are too solid to be blown, and I propose to varnish them, which, perhaps, will prevent their destruction. Mr. Forbes (the gentleman who so nobly distinguished himself during our Irish famine, by undertaking to freight a ship with provisions and carry her across the Atlantic) dined here. He considers himself to have some descent from or connexion with our Murrays in Scotland, and we are quite ready to acknowledge the relationship. 32 EAGLE HEAD. Fen ERS oe Sos ee Thursday, August 10.—Mr. L provided two Carry-alls to convey a pic-nic party to see Eagle Head, a fine porphyry bluff about seven miles distant. Mrs. W. L—-~ took out her fine good-humoured baby girl, not seven months old, and she seemed to enjoy the expedition as much as any of us. In our way we passed through a bright, white, and clean-looking upholstery manufacturing town, called Manchester, the strongest contrast to our black, dirty-looking Manchester possible. The factory young men looked like smart London tradespeople, and the women were equally well dressed. I have only seen one ragged- looking body in these parts, and that was in Boston. He was supposed to be a recently-imported Irish- man. This part of the country looks rather sterile and unproductive, in an agricultural point of view ; more thickly sown with picturesque rocks than corn, and therefore at- first it seems a miracle how the population can make themselves so comfortable, and their general appearance be that of people well-to-do in the world; but they have plenty of employment in various handicrafts. Between this place and Beverley, and towards Wenham, there are numberless tidy-looking small shoe-workshops—many shoes are made all through the neighbourhood; these workshops are distinct from the residences of the shoemakers, who reside in houses all made of wood, but of a com- fortable size. One sees no very small cottages. I ‘ovided two Kagle Head, les distant. 10ured baby ed to enjoy In our way ean-looking Manchester, rty-looking men looked vomen were ne ragged- in Boston. ‘ted Trish- ther sterile it of view ; than corn, > how the rtable, and well-to-do nployment place and 1um berless Shoes are workshops oemakers, of a com- itages. I EAGLE HEAD. 33 have met two or three people who say they have come over from England to make a little money and mean to return there. The views all round Eagle Head are fine ; nume- rous indentations and islands on this coast make it 480 picturesque. We lunched on water-melon and cakes ; and, after spending two or three hours very pleasantly, returned home. Our party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. W. L , Dr. and Mrs. Gray, Mrs.G Mrs. L ’s brother, Mr. E and the baby. Mr. L was taken away by the un- expected arrival of a party of workmen for the con- , two young girls, struction of a ram, which he was obliged to super- intend. After dinner, Mr. W. L proposed a row on the sea by moonlight; all the ladies except myself were afraid of the undertaking. The tide being low, we were obliged to be drawn into the water by a horse upon a low truck, and the diffi- culty of sticking to it when the horse made his first effort to drag the machine out of the deep sand was considerable. We returned safely, however, without paying any. other a dicods as for the experi- ment than getting rather wet. Friday, 1oth.—After breakfast, Mr. L walked with me to Sunny Bank. I sketched, before leav- ing this pretty place. Mr. L showed me the difference between common maize and sweet corn. The latter appears to be only more delicate than VOL. I. D cttttan age fahcinbaepeael ese tment nathan _ a sapscpesin = —ee o4 BOSTON. ieee etnies atta i ie the former. It is very good, when the corn is young, served up simply boiled, to be eaten with butter and salt. By the four o’clock train I left Glencove with Mrs. G » Mr. and Mrs, L seeing us off. It was more like parting fror «Jd friends than from the acquaintances of a wee. ° iad found myself so pleasantly at home among tuem. We reached Bos- ton about six o’clock, when I was introduced to Mr. G » Who met us at the station; and Mrs. G took me home with her to Ashburton Place 3; I found a nice house, belonging to her mother, with every comfort; and in the evening Mr. and Mrs, G took me to call on Mr. and Mrs. Abbott Lawrence, where we passed a pleasant hour, talking . over English matters. Next morning early, I went with R—— to Tremont House, to unpack my bag- gage and arrange it for future use. From igno- rance of hotel customs in this country, I had left my trunks with the hotel authorities ; and they charged me during my absence as if my boxes had eaten and drank, so that my bill was more than forty dol- , lars, though I had remained so short a time in the house, and only had two small bedrooms there; but payments are made for rooms, not for board or attendance ; and whether an individual person, or an individual box, eats or not, the same money is paid. Mr. G took me to his studio, to see an interesting design for sculpture. The subject was mn is young, 1 butter and encove with ‘us off. It an from the 1 myself so eached Bos- sed to Mr. Mrs. G: . Place; I other, with . and. Mrs. [rs. Abbott ur, talking . rly, I went k my bag- ‘rom igno- iad left my ey charged eaten and forty dol- | ime in the there ;_ but board or person, or money is , to see an ubject was STATUE OF WASHINGTON. 35 a shepherd boy: he is supposed to have carried off a young eaglet, and to be attacked by the mother bird. She has alighted upon the shoulder of the lad, who, borne down in a stooping posture, seizing one wing of his assailant, grasps in his right hand a knife, with which he is prepared to defend himself. This idea is expressed with great force. I did not admire Chantry’s statue of Washington at the State House ; it is wanting in character. The one at the Atheneum is better ; but neither of them satisfy the imagina- tion as much as Stewart’s unfinished heads of Wash- ington and his wife in the Picture Gallery. Among the sculpture there are several busts by native artists, which would, I think, be considered fine in Europe. There was a bas-relief by an elder brother of Mr. Greenough, now dead, a sketch of which I fancy to have seen somewhere in England. At the house of his sister I saw another work by the same artist : two children—the one as an angel leading the awakened soul of the other, with an inscription be- low ; very pretty. Mr. B had advised me to start by the four o’clock train for Providence to take the Newport steamer ; I was agreeably surprised by the pleasure of Mr. G——’s escort and company the whole way : he was so obliging as to make the discovery that he too had some friends to visit, and this added much to the ease and the interest of my journey, which was D2 ‘ 36 NEWPORT. iterating a fc longer than I expected—three or four hours by rail, and at least twenty-five miles up an arm of the sea to Rhode Island. It was dark before we reached Newport, but I found Mrs, B——’s eldest son and Mr. B awaiting our arrival: they conveyed me in a carriage about two miles to their villa, which, as it has no name, I shall call Ocean Cliff. The sea view has only some small islands to break the expanse of waters; so, if it were possible, one might see as far as the South Pole. The high ground between this place and Newport is studded by villas ; fine rocks, which look like limestone, edge the points and bays of the shore, and just below, black coal- looking bluffs crop out into the waves: last even. ing I walked to look at them, but I understand there is no fear that the smoking chimneys of steam- engines, or the black produce of the earth, will ever mar the beauties of this shore. The next morning after my arrival, young Mr. B—— drove me out in what is here called a wagon, a four-wheeled kind of dog-cart, with very high light wheels (wheels very general round this country, but such as I have only seen attached to velocipedes in England), drawn by a spirited little horse, having the same good quality which I also observed in the larger one belonging to Mr. L , that of standing patiently when left to himself; in this respect horses are better trained here than with us. When we were wandering about > mw *-5 = = Sl SUM TH hours by arm of the we reached st son and veyed me illa, which, jliff. The break the one might th ground l by villas ; the points lack coal- last even- inderstand of steam- , will ever ; morning me out in d kind of neels very have only drawn by nd quality onging to on left to r trained ing about WATER QUADRILLES. 37 for an hour or two, the carriage could be safely left, with the reins only slightly attached to some gate or paling, and the horse, though powerful and spirited, never seemed to have an idea of walking off. I asked the English groom how this was taught, but received no other explanation than that they were trained to it; and a great convenience it is. One sees butchers’ carts in London standing unguarded at houses, but I never found that carriages could be safely left—particularly with the temptations of green ficlds and trees in every direction. We drove by Newport to the’ bathing sands, where gen- tlemen take charge of ladies in the surf: it was to me a very singular and amusing sccne—numerous car- riages, drawn up before a semicircle of small bathing- houses, containing gaily dressed occupants, who had taken their marine walk, or were waiting for the ladies, young and old, still frolicking about among the waves, children dancing in and out, gentlemen handing about their pretty partners as if they were dancing water quadrilles, and heads, young and old, with streaming hair dipping in and out: it was very droll, very lively, and I daresay very amusing to all engaged. .No accident has ever occurred here, for the bay is protected by capes on each side, and the water is shallow for some distance out. A white flag is raised during the hours appro- priated to ladies, and it is succeeded by a red one, nmin ete sr = SSS ee 38 _ NEWPORT. (rece cpt a i later in the day, when gentlemen take possession of the shore on their own account. The scene re- sembled that on a racecourse in England. I made a slight sketch from the hill above: it was unique in its way, for I believe there are few places, even in America, where the sea would be safe for such an experiment : and even here the aid of strong arms is at times very necessary to save ladies from being knocked over by the waves. There was considerable surf to-day, but, from the numbers who breasted it, I suppose the courage necessary for the undertaking is not so great as it appears to me. I should look on a long while before I could try this kind of experiment, Sunday, August 13—I went to the Episcopal Church, which was built duviy ig the English occu- pation here ; Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne, presented a good organ. The service was well read: our Liturgy, with only an occasional change, which I thought an improvement. The sermon, preached by a Mr. Cook, good in matter and in manner, and ending at the right moment—not spun out so as to weaken its effect : as it was neither commonplace nor dry, I did not think whether it lasted for twenty minutes or for fifty minutes. and I really do not know what its duration may have been. The subject was Christ’s command to ‘follow him,’ and the moral deduced was, that the experiment of obedience, if fairly ssession of scene re- I made unique in s, even in r such an ig arms is om being nsiderable asted it, I dertaking suld look kind of Episcopal ish occu- esented a Liturgy, thought y a Mr. nding at -aken its 'y, I did es or for what its Christ’s deduced f fairly A NEW VEGETABLE. 39 tried, will never fail to convince the sceptic, and to strengthen the believer. Dinner was at three o'clock ; afterwards, Mr. G joined us in a walk to the shore. Tea was ready when we returned ; a beautiful moonlight starlight night. Mr. Law- rence, an English artist, walked in; his crayon portraits are much liked here, and with good reason; they are true, pleasing, and spirited. I much admired a sketch of Rogers, done just before Mr. Lawrence came from England last spring. I see nothing like timber upon this island. Mrs. B showed me a little bit of primeval forest yesterday ; it appeared to consist of hiccory and sassafras, low, thick, and scrubby ; but the English ive accused of having destroyed nearly all the natural wood during the revolutionary period. The Gulf Stream touches this shore, which makes a mild and genial climate, though I am told that sharp winters here destroy myrtles and pomegranates, which flourish upon our south-western coast, while a warmer summer sun ripens fruits that fail with us. I must, however, try to introduce an excellent vegetable into England, which is called here by the name of Okra. IT have not yet seen the flower expanded, but the plant looks like some kind of Hibiscus, with a long green fruit, which makes a delicious ingredient in soups; it is softer and more gelatinous than aspa- ragus, and when young and tender is cut in slices: it 40 NEWPORT. pe Br AE Eatin ceeeeneeen is an annual, and perhaps will not ripen seed with us, but is surely better worth raising in hot-houses than French beans, I will get some good seed by and bye; this and the Rubus villosus would both be good introductions; there is a high variety of the latter, which might, I think, be cultivated in our warmer gardens, like raspberries ; the fruit is in size and colour between the blackberry and mulberry, and I think much better than the first, and much more certain than the last, though the flavour may not be quite so high as that of a really good mulberry, I am surprised that it has never yet been cultivated in England. At six o’clock this morning, a thick fog, which ended in rain and a fine day. There are people this side the Atlantic who, as new acquaintances, are very pleasant, This morning I have been introduced to Mrs. and Miss B ; they sympathize about flowers and stones, which is rare in this country; and they are not the least stiff or cold. When people are cultivated and warm. hearted, I soon forget and forgive their habits of making all our vowels double, and even the nasal tone of some among them. There is a genuine characteristic frankness here which js very pleasant. There is no reason why we should treat our fellow- beings that happen to be new acquaintances, with less kindness than dogs or horses. I am afraid this is a fault in our national character. I believe we Pate, Ener oe aa a Cee = Mee We ioe a. ed with us, yuses than ed by and | both be ety of the dd in our ;is in size mulberry, md much vour may mulberry, tivated in hick fog, > who, as | morning : B ; which is least stiff d warm- habits of he nasal genuine pleasant. r fellow- vith less uid this lieve we AMERICAN KINDNESS. 41 are honest and sincere, and that is better than mere surface politeness; but we lose so much time in our cautious civilities, that in some cases life is half ex- pended before we dare exchange mere acquaintance- ship for a warmer feeling. The Americans, who are a go-ahead people in all their concerns, appear to me to carry their hearts in their hands; this is very pleasant to a stranger coming suddenly among them ; and it is difficult for me to ‘realize’ that it is only fourteen days to-morrow since I landed on these shores,so many homes and hearts upon it have already been opened to me. Perhaps I shall find a differ- ence in other places, and I may have been particu- larly fortunate in my first acquaintances. There is certainly great beauty and refinement of feature among the mass of the people, but it is accompanied by a fragility of look which raises painful feelings. As far as I can judge at present, this is owing partly to hereditary causes, partly to actual habits. The excitement and anxieties of business-life in a new country probably entail constitutional delicacy upon the children of parents so eagerly occupied, and the sedentary city education and pursuits of the young of the last and present generation, unfevour- able to out-of-door interests and amusements, do not harden and strengthen the nerves and muscles. I am already tempted to contravert the assertion of American ladies, that their generally delicate health 42 NEWPORT. relation landed ia is to be attributed to climate. They may have severer winters and warmer summers than ours, but these are accompanied by the advantages of less damp, and of brighter sunshine. I have not had an hour too warm for exercise during any part of the day, for though the sun is brighter, it does not always beam so furiously as with us. The climate of Massa- chusetts seems to me a charming one, and I believe another generation will discover its merits, because I entertain hopes that the children now growing up will acquire more hardy habits. The evil I am speaking of cannot be remedied in a day ; and I find American ladies are at this moment so little informed with regard to natural productions, and so unfitted for country pursuits, that their ignorance of these inatters is at once the evidence and the cause of their lack of physical strength. Newport, August 15.—I was introduced to about thirty new faces yesterday. Among them the governor of New York. A pleasant acquaintance ; he gave me much geological information, and pro- mises to forward my seeing Albany, &c., to advan- tage. I took a walk on the shore just below this garden, and was much interested, as well as a good. deal puzzled. My little geological knowledge is quite at fault; sand and quartz rocks, coal and limestone, and they say granite beyond; this seems to me a jumble. I suppose it will be reduced to order ee * have rs, but f less nad an of the ilways [lassa- elieve cause ng up I am I find yrmed fitted these ise of about the ince ; pro- lvan- - this good. re 18 and eems order DR. HOWE. 43 by and bye. After dinner Mrs. B took me a dis- tant drive up the island, to call on Dr. and Mrs. Howe: the doctor’s name and benevolent deeds have long been familiar to me. We found also, visiting them, a nephew of the late Dr. Tinkermann, and Mr. and Mrs. Carlton, descendants of Lord Baltimore. Dr. Howe has bought a cottage in a picturesque valley, about a mile from the sea-shore, and is busy making walks and opening out views; his children will benefit in health and tastes. The sun set before we could tear ourselves away, and so we got home in the dark, and broke an engagement to drink tea out; but Mrs. and Miss B we had a pleasant evening. Miss B—— will come came here instead, and soon 2fter eight to-morrow morning, to take me to the rocks ; she is the only active young lady I have met with ! August 16.—After an early breakfast, Miss B took me to Newport, to get an American trunk to pack parcels; and in coming back we went to see the pretty view from Mrs. B——’s house, and after carrying home our purchase, we drove to Mrs. C ’s villa, which is built close to a shore of fine granite rocks. Several lady visitors were with Mrs. B—— before I came away. Soon after one o’clock I called for Mr. G on board the steamer, where I had the pleasure of -, who accompanied me meeting Dr. and Mrs. Howe. The Doctor went on 44 BOSTON. eterna nn with us to Boston. Dr. Gray came to Ashburton . Place, and promises to go with me to-morrow, as far as Lake Winnipessiogee, (‘Spirit of the Waters,’) which I am to see in my way to the White Mountains } from thence, my proposed route to Canada is by Burlington and Lake George. Although so much is said about cholera, Lord Elgin mentions that there is great exaggeration. Rain is prophesied to-night, and it would be better to have wet before my next journey, to lay the dust. There has only been one showery day since my arrival in America, a fortnight to-day: it seems more like two months than two weeks—so many new ideas have been crowded into the time. The Canada sails to-morrow. I have had no news from England later than the morning I left Liverpool; and probably my letters have gone to the care of Lord Elgin. No time for more to- night. Yours affectionately, LETTER IV. SLAVERY QUESTION. Boston, Wednesday, August 16. My pear FrienDs,— My last letter will go by the Canada this morning, if possible (as the train by which we travel towards the White Mountains does not start till after noon). I shall try to see Captain Stone before he sails. Mrs. G is gone to Sunny Bank, so I miss her here: her sister received me, Mrs. L—— being confined to her room by illness. Iam told that after leaving these Northern States, I shall find the country, and the people, and the habits, much less English ; here the shade of difference \is very slight—certainly not greater than a difference of institutions necessitates. A supply of excellent water is so abundant in Boston (derived, I am told, from Lake Cochituata, forty miles distant), that by six o’clock in the morning I see the servants belong- ing to houses watering the pavement before the 46 BOSTON. teense nchipberleeesrihhants pidinersmsaliee doors with a long hose, as we should water our gardens; and the housemaids, with those clean, con- venient, light-looking Shaker brooms, Sweeping away the dust. I do not know any one of our towns (not even Bath) which exceeds this in purity and neat- ness ; and, as there is a great deal of cholera abroad, in coming through the streets the other day, I found them perfumed with hot vinegar. I was told a carriage full of that fumigating liquid had been driven smoking through the streets. There are deaths every day here, and some at Newport; but it is not believed to be'contagiovs at present, only carrying off the profligate and the debilitated. I hear, though, that the deaths at New York last week, among a population of five hundred thousand only, equalled our usual bills of mortality in London. I should particularly dread any epidemic falling upon a people which, as a general rule, look so over-worked, and fragile, and thin as these Northern Americans. Dr. Howe says it is climate; as yet I am incredulous upon this point. My friend, Mr. L——, confessed he was almost in his grave when, eight years ago, he bought his pretty place. Now, with the revivifying influence of his. farm and garden (although he does not entirely give up his legal duties), he looks as strong and liealthy as any sexagenarian upon our side the Atlantic. I should like to transplant all the sick dyspeptic men and women of New York t,o a. ee ee a — ee Se ee ee ee ee ee Se ie ee our con- away (not neat- road, y, I told been aths ; not ying ugh, ng a ulled ould ople and Dr. lous ssed ), he ring loes 3 as our all ork THE VEXED QUESTION. 47 and Boston into gardens and fields, before I will admit that this pleasant climate is to blame. I am rather inclined to assert that mental excitement, and money-making, and sedentary employments are the real criminals, and that something is due to the laws of inheritance even in this unentailing country. Till my introduction to the Governor of New York, I did not know that each State has a Governor. Governor Seymour lives at Albany. Some of these Governors are only elected for two years, and this gentleman does credit to popular choice. What is likely to be the effect of the Nebraska Bill upon the Slavery question? Some intelligent men appear to think it is as much a political catch as some of those divisions in our House of Commons which are rendered nugatory by after divisions; and that it has roused the feelings of the enlightened and liberals, who consider the question as one merely of time,—a disease requiring only the treatment of wise and not too hasty physicians,—perhaps this appa- rently retrograde step will ultimately hasten the de- sired change. One kind person, who is a planter, told me he has no other wish than to see his black children able to use the gift of themselves, which few deny to be their right, if they can use it; but, like our Colonies, they must become men in expe- rience and intelligence before they can take care of themselves, and I am already inclined to hope that 48 BOSTON. Scien tlptcekilllsilalsibeibas the ‘ Legrees’ are as much exceptional beings, as idle and profligate landholders among ourselves. In saying this, I know you will not think me upholding Slavery ; Christianity will and must subdue it—not by teaching us to vilify and persecute those less fortu- nate of our brethren who have had the curse of human possessions entailed upon them—but by enlightening the darkened, and instructing the ignorant; and even (if that should be necessary) making such pro- perty valueless in a commercial point of view. No individual selfishness, and no political intrigues, can prevent the wished-for consummation; and I firmly believe there are few, very few, even in the South, who will not hail with joy the moment of emanci- pation—a movement at present: delayed by doubts and fears. This is my first view of a vexed question ; I may alter it—I may change it altogether; but in the meanwhile, such as it is, I give it. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. a ls a a a a a er her ey LETTER V. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS TOUR. Auton Bay, New Hampsuire, August 17. My pear Frienps,— Owing to a mistake about the railroad hour, I am here, instead of at the most frequented end of Lake Winnipessiogee, in what is considered a wild village ; but this simple little hotel called Winnipes- ‘siogee House is clean and much more comfortable than any out-of-the-way Scotch inns I ever was at ; and it is well to see here a specimen of the wonderful industry of this people—railroads down to the very water. I forgot to mention that before we left Boston, Dr. Gray took me to see Fanueil Hall (Huguenot name), built, as a public gift to the town of Boston in old times, by a merchant. It is the place where the first public meeting was held during the Revolution; and there is a large picture of Webster speaking in Congress upon the Nullifica- tion question. It is well painted for its purpose, VOL. I. E 5° JOURNEY. and the portraits are considered like. I afterwards made a sketch of the oldest house in Boston, now a shop, the date 1683. Rather before two o’clock we left in the railway cars for Winnipessiogee. The line goes through a country much resembling English park scenery ; glades and woods and single trees, sugar maples, red maples, hemlock spruce, Weymouth pines, black, white, and red oak, with creeping juniper, and occasionally wild vines, which associate ideas of high cultivation with the landscape in an English mind, from such things not being indigenous in our country. We passed through towns and villages called Charlestown, Somerville, Edgware, Maldon, Melrose, Reading, Andover, Haverill, Newton, King- ston, Exeter, Newmarket, Durham, Dover, Berwick, Portland, Rochester, New Durham, and Alton, and these following, as I have written them, to the utter confusion of English geography. Among them were some Indian names, much more beautiful and appro- priate to this country. Swampscot, Cochego, Scour- namagowie (how like Scournalapich, in Ross-shire), Agawam, &c. &. At Dover, after passing the Miramachi river, we changed cars, and entered a branch railroad for Alton Bay. This was very slow, as it stopped at several stations for mercantile purposes; and though we left at five, we did not arrive till after eight o’clock, having been more than three hours going about twenty-five miles; but the RAILWAY ARRANGEMENTS. 51 i eee route was pretty: sometimes cut through a drift of sand, containing boulders of granite, with large plates of mica, it occasionally reminded me of the forest of Fontainebleau, but without fine timber, this forest being all young; no trees looked older than thirty or forty years. We had a hospitable wel- come; clean rooms and beds, charges moderate. Here, for the first time, I see hand-lamps in which a mixture of camphine and alcohol is used; it burns clearly, and gives a pleasant light. This camphine is chiefly manufactured from turpentine collected in the pine woods of North Carolina. August 18.—Before breakfast, I sketched the lake, &e., from my window. A large quantity of wood lay about in all directions, for the purpose of supply- ing the car engines and lake steamers with fuel, wood only being used: the railroad carriages are never called by any other name than cars; they are more like movable galleries ; in some respects I prefer them to carriages; they are more airy, and the seats, holding two all down each side of the centre, are roomy and comfortable. A cord runs along the middle of the roof, by which the driver may be communicated with ; it is out of the reach of chil- dren: there is a conductor, who walks backwards and forwards between the long cars, which I imagine convey from sixty to eighty passengers in each ; these are occasionally refreshed by an Aquarius, E2 52 ALTON BAY. walking with his little fountain of iced water, distributing it liberally at the cost of the Com- pany. Even this small and not very much fre- quented place has not only a railroad which takes one down nearly to the landing-place, but also a branch off it, to convey wood. Certainly, Americans are very purpose-like and industrious, and I have as yet met with nothing but what has been polite, with the exception of the unintentional rudeness of two or three country people here, who established them- selves at the window listening to our conversation, and asking for ‘my sketch-books ; but it was in the simplicity of their hearts; they meant no ill, and were only doing as they would be done by. Here I was sorry to part with Dr. Gray, who kindly came so far to put me in the way of American travel ; but he first drove me in a ‘wagon’ about two miles’ distance, to see an extensive view of the lake, which must be from seventy to eighty miles round, with deep indentations, and numerous islands thickly clothed by wood; which, not being of a size to pay for transport, is left undisturbed. I did not observe any of them to be inhabited. I am rather pleased that our mistake about the train from Boston caused us to come here instead of to a place called the Weir; as from hence I shall go the whole length of the lake, instead of only about twelve miles to Centre Harbour, the point form which I «m to visit the White Mountains. In THE PAPER BIRCH. 53 guing up the hill I saw a fine paper birch. Those trees are numerous here, and Dr. Gray took off some sheets for me to draw upon: it is prettily shaded, and easily takes either pencil or colour; be- ing both tough and soft, it comes off in layers. I can easily imagine how the Indians make canoes and all sorts of things of it; the tree is handsome, with larger leaves than ours has, and a still whiter stem. I found, too, the high blackberry, a handsome shrub; and a wytch hazel, different from ours. Upon a beautiful spot overlooking the lake, we came to a. house, deserted by its inhabitants about a year ago. The doors and windows were still perfectly good, and of a size far beyond a cottager’s abode in England. In a week I could have made it comfortable enough to live in. A boy told us the owners had built one larger, and in a more sheltered situation. The first steamer had departed just as we returned, and it was four o’clock when Dr. Gray entered: the train, to return to Boston. R—— and I went on board a very comfortable, clean boat, called the Dover. There were not many people on board. One American gentleman, who had been in England, Scotland, Ireland, and apparently all over the world, came and talked to me, and then presented his card before landing at Wolfsborough. At first the lake reminded me of some of ours, but it soon widened out so as to be on a grander scale; and, with its numerous islands and mountain background, I 54 CENTRE HARBOUR. =n oeeeesnsnsenenieessstshnstinnsstinesenssensestnsinnmn thought it exceedingly beautiful. It was twilight before we landed at Centre Harbour, the sun having made a glorious setting, We found a very comfort- able hotel here. August 19.—Early this morning, I went with Mr, and Mrs. T- and a party, in akind. of char-d-banc, which held nine, to Red Hill, so called from the bril- liant colour of the foliage late in the year. I refused to drive up the ascent, and therefore paused at a small farm to draw. The family consisted of a grand- mother and several sons, with a married daughter and children. ‘The old woman was very obliging ; she let me taste a cheese she was making, and gave me a seat at the door, where there was a beautiful view. The daughter soon came down stairs ; she looked delicate, as almost all American women do ; and I was amused at the simplicity with which she informed me that she should like to take the pattern of my gown, as it was exactly what she wanted 3 80 I gave her leave to get her paper and scissors for the purpose, and she accepted my permission quite as a matter of course. This evening I saw seven or eight cows driven by the owner, who occupied a gig. He was a respectable looking man, with a good horse, which he drove, ad libitum, first on one side the road, and then over the turf or into the ditch on the other side | After considering different routes, I am inclined to NEW ACQUAINTANCE. 55 go by Conway to-morrow to the Notch, instead of Plymouth. I got a yellow Geradia to-day, on the Red Hill; it is a beautiful plant; perhaps it is Geradia quercifolia. August 20.—Centre Harbour.—Last night I made acquaintance with the brother and sister of a gentleman who came over in the Canada; we de- termined to go on together by the Conway House route to the White Mountains, in a kind of char- a-banc we are to hire for the purpose, instead of proceeding by coach to the Weir (another place on this lake), and there taking the road for Plymouth. We arrived at Conway House before three o’clock, having been long in making the journey of thirty miles, owing to a very hilly road, nearly all the way through deep sand. The drive was hot and dusty, but very beautiful, through woods and by lakes; one called Long Pond, another Six-Mile Pond, &. I could have supposed myself in Scotland, in the neighbourhood of Loch Awe, or the Garry Lochs, had it not been for the paper birch, sugar maples, &c. &c., and the undergrowth of scrub oak—a very pretty shrub, which 7 have not before seen. ‘There were no horses to take us on, after our dinner at Horace Fabian’s house, therefore we must make up our minds to go very early to- morrow (Sunday), so as to get to Crauford House, at the Notch, White Mountains, by one o’clock. 56 MOUNT WILLARD. We left Conway this morning, August 2oth, at six o’clock, in a very comfortable open carriage, with three horses; such a beautiful drive! The country re- sembles Braemar, near Invercauld, but is still finer, as the mountains are higher and the foliage is more varied. We passed the Willow-house, out of which an unfortunate family of nine persons fled, a few years ago, to avoid a slipin the mountains. The house was untouched, and these poor people were buried alive by the falling stones a short distance from it. We arrived at the hotel in good time; I found some acquaintances there, and was induced to accompany them in a char-d-banc, drawn by six horses, to the summit of Mount Willard. Having once embarked in the undertaking, I was ashamed to insist upon being let off; but the ascent was really a tremendous one for any vehicle whatever ; and how we ever got safely up and down again, is a marvel to me. This house is full of people, but all is comfortably arranged. I like one American plan, of paying for inn accom- modation ; no bill of items is ever given. The pay- ment is at the rate of three or four dollars a-day, and there is an end of it. This saves much trouble and time. Dining is not cheap at those hotels; but those who keep them for the convenience of travellers must have a certain sum; and what does it signify whether this is charged for wax candles or for bread- and-butter ? A HASTY JUDGMENT. 57 August 21.—A party went off this morning by eight o’clock to ascend Mount Washington on horse- back, and perhaps to spend the night there; but I resisted all temptation to join it, having quite enough to amuse and occupy me below. Another beautiful day—beautiful for us, but not for the poor farmers, who feel the present drought. Most of the streams and waterfalls are dry ; but we are ready to com- pound for some loss of picturesque effect for the sake of the charming weather. Yesterday, I ate sweet po- tatoes at dinner ; they taste very like chestnuts. Such things are not grown here, but come from the South. I find extreme civility and attention from all the waiters and attendants in the White Mountain hotels. On the whole, my impression of the Ameri- can people has been hitherto far more agreeable than I expected. One gentleman, at Centre House, held forth upon the b&ackwardness of England, and about her institutions having been stationary for the last two hundred years. I asked him whether he had ever visited the country, and upon his allowing he had not, I advised him to defer making up his opinion until he had had a fair opportunity of judging. I do not think his notior., were sympathized with by those who were around us. The everlasting rocking-chairs among the ladies make me quite dizzy, and give me a sea-sick feeling: and the custom raises an idea of want of rational occupation, without even the doubt- 58 THE NOTCH HOUSE. Se ee EERE ARES ERS ie he SO En ful satisfaction of a ‘dolce far niente’ The broad English farmer-like pronunciation is also unpleasant to English ears; but good humour and the laws of kindness have prevailed wherever I have yet been, united to a higher general ’ intelligence than among the majority of our population. The difference be- tween us appears to be that our highest classes have more principle, elegance, and refinement ; the women more energy and activity, and the men more athletic amusements ; while our middle and lower classes are less highly educated, perhaps rather more narrow- minded, and physically, work harder; although, in some respects, I think the Americans wear themselves out sooner, particularly those occupied in manufac. tures or mercantile affairs. The race and the ap- pearance of horses is an example which runs through everything here. There are none so perfect as our most perfect ; but the animals gerferally go better, and are better fed than second or third-rate horses in England. I had a pleasant walk with Mr. T——, who was very kind in helping me over difficulties, and patient in waiting while I drew, or hunted for plants. I found Trilliums in seed, and the roots. of some kind of Epiphyte, and a beautiful little creeping evergreen (Chiogenes) on the rotten trunks of trees ; many other forms were new to my eyes. The party who went up the mountain have returned, excepting one lady and some gentlemen, who determined to THE PROFILE HOUSE. 59 pass the night in a little hotel there, to see the sun rise. All were much fatigued, and a storm of wind and a foggy morning disappointed those who had adventured an uncomfortable night. August 23.—My acquaintances invited me to join a party of ten in an open char-d-banc to go on to the Profile House, about twenty-five miles, at Fran- conia. We started, as soon as Mrs. P—— came down from Mount Washington, about three o’clock. The drive was beautiful, just our Highlands upon rather a greater scale as to forests and torrents ; with moun- tains about the height of those round Braemar. Smoke rose in all directions from the burning trees. We passed close to one of considerable size, which was on fire at the bottom, with flames creeping up the trunk and peeping out of holes. It was dark before we reached the Profile House, an hotel built, as usual in this country, upon a very large scale: the saloon or drawing-room I should imagine at least thirty-eight feet square, and the dining-room sixty fect long. There are probably eighty travellers accommodated here at this moment. Streams of visitors usually succeed each other for about three months; but dnring the rest of the year few people come to this mountainous district. After breakfast to-day, our party set off in the char-d-banc with four horses, to see the waterfalls and the Valley of the Flume; passing by the mountain Profile and RTE EATS ORES SSS a SS AREAS fe 60 PROFILE HOUSE. EE ER ape ed en OE es Ee em ere EEE TENSE Oe Ems lake. A legend is attached to the latter, which says, that all who rise early enough may see the old man of the mountain take his bath in the lake. The scenery round the Flume House is so fine, that I mean to remove there, five miles from hence, to- morrow; and I shall join an American acquaint- ance, Miss F » Who has been much in Eng- land, and who likes drawing and rambling as much as Ido. I shall be the more willing to exchange my quarters, as the friends I have travelled with from Lake Winnipessiogee return to their homes at Boston to-morrow. This afternoon we rowed upon the Echo Lake, and heard all its reverberations of horns, and cannon, and voices, which are very clear and distinct. It is a ‘ pond’ of no great size, but deep—very deep. Before tea I walked to Profile Like to finish a sketch, and look for flowers. I found a very sweet and pretty yellow Utricularia, quite new to me, growing at the edge of the water; and I also picked a copper-coloured cotton-grass, to-day, near the Flume House, besides a beautiful little creeping plant in the woods. To-night, the forest is on fire upon a mountain just above this house: the sight is grand, but rather terrific. These fires are believed to arise from carelessness, or, perhaps, oc- casionally from some spirit of wanton mischief. " ‘tay can only be extinguished by heavy rain; and now the underwood is so very dry, much damage i aN a Di 2 aR aie a a ~ HS * A bed ~_ FOREST FIRES. 61 may be done. I suppose the flames we have been watching may be at two miles’ distance; but if the wind should rise and drive them down towards this hotel, I should be alarmed for its safety; being crected entirely of wood, sparks falling upor it would be very dangerous. For some days past we have observed these forest fires in many directions. Some- times they are intentional, to make clearings, but in general they are regretted ; and I feel grieved at the destruction of the beautiful trees and underwood which thirty years’ growth cannot replace. As the weather continues so enjoyable for moun- tain exercises, I propose to remain at the Flume till Monday next; then, probably, we shall take the railroad, ten miles from thence, and visit Lake George, if I hear that Mr. T is there; or else I may go by Montreal to Quebec, putting off the Falls of Niagara until after my return, as I am told that brilliant autumn tints will add to the pic- turesque effect, and if possible increase the splendour of Niagara. This evening a German gentleman played on the piano in the large room, with the usual taste and musical knowledge of his country, and some young ladies and gentlemen waltzed quietly and gracefully. All the travellers I fall in with are civil and obliging. I have not had as yet the least reason to complain of want of attention from either masters or servants. I am told I may be less 62 PROFILE HOUSE. wiping tal i ici ecg fortunate as we travel further west or south; but hitherto none of my own little preparations or con- veniences against travelling difficulties have been in requisition ; the only thing I miss is good household bread. There seems to be no such article in use ; nothing but new soft rolls and biscuits, and buckwheat cakes, which are so like our papcakes, that I mistook them for something of that kind. So much for eatables. As to drinkables, I have hardly observed any one gentleman or lady take any other beverage than iced water, milk, or tea. It is said that all classes of men make great use of brandy, but I have not seen any of it drunk; and as to smoking, it is not more general here than in England. It is not made half as disagreeable as in Germany. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. P.S.—This letter will be conveyed to Boston to- morrow morning. I have not any time to read over what I have written, therefore repetitions are pro- bable. I have little chance of hearing from England till I reach Canada, and the month since I left it appears four times as long, from having already seen so many new faces and fresh places. Very little public news has reached me, and I feel anxious about the Baltic fleet, particularly as I hear that cases of cholera have occurred on board the Si. .7ean d’ Acre. LETTER VI. PLEASANT RAMBLES, Fiumz Hovsz, Wuirz Movuntarys, New Hampsnaire, U.S. August 25. My pear Frienps,— IT came here yesterday from the Frofile House, in one of the usual char-d-bancs ; some friends went the other wey on their return home, but I found all my new compagnons de voyage obliging and agreeable, As the distance was only five or six miles, I requested to be left to sketch rocks and a waterfall by the roadside, about half of that distance, where the mountain-torrent has worn the granite into a singular bowl. After trying almost fruitlessly to give some idea of the place, I enjoyed a pleasant walk through the still and tranquil forest, with a sense of the most perfect security. No fear of Indian tomahawk, or wild or uncivil or riotous human beings; not a reptile of any kind to prevent me from going into the bush 64 ‘THE FLUME.’ and bog after flowers; even bears are now hardly ever seen in these woods, though it is said that one has made its way to a patch of corn near this house. I think there is no positive proof that some tamer animal was not the marauder. When I reached this hotel, I found R-—— comfortably settled, and my things in a pleasant room with a verandah, looking upon an extensive view on two sides. I have both windows wide open all night, without feeling any draught, though I sleep between them; and yet I have felt no heat so oppressive as that of a warm summer’s day in England. August 26.—Yesterday, I much enjoyed the fine scenery. A lady who has passed some time in Eng- land went out to draw with me; and after dinner, Dr. and Mrs. B——, both kind and pleasant people, accompanied us in another ramble. What is called ‘the Flume’ is very fine; and the waters being so low, there is no difficulty in walking up the bed of the torrent. Enormous tables of gran'te rock, apparently without a flaw for twenty yards together, bed the stream in an easy ascent to a rocky gorge, where an immense boulder, almost circular, hangs suspended overhead, jammed in between two cliffs. How fine it must be, when the water roars down this chasm! though a drought now enables us to see the channel more completely ; and at another point called the Dell, AN EVENING PARTY. 65 a steep descent brings one down to a pool of twenty or thirty feet in depth, clear as crystal; here, a rude boat has been established by an old man and his wife, with their sow ; for this little emerald-coloured mountain ‘tarn’ is of sufficient size to paddle about in it. The larger drawing-room in this hotel, is fitted up with every comfort, and there is an excellent piano. The evening party was large, perhaps from forty to fifty; an elephant well manufactured out of two bipeds walked in to amuse the chil- dren ; one of the house-attendants played quadrilles very fairly on the violin; two sets were made up for dancing: some young ladies also sang in tune and very sweetly together. Attached to both this house and the Notch, there are bowling-alleys under cover, where ladies and gentlemen can take exercise and amusement in wet weather. On the whole, I doubt whether in England as large and heterogeneous a society accidentally gathered together, would conduct itself with so much good humour and propriety as that which I find here. All converse without introduction, yet I have seen nothing like forwardness or vulgarity of manner: though there is a degree of restraint and stiffness, I find myself much more at home than I should be in any hotel, either on the Continent of Europe or in the British Isles—it is more like the freedom of a very large VOL. 1. F 66 FLUME HOUSE. icine nautepinsecesinindlntanssnanpitiusssninsc country-house in England. This peculiarity of American manners | hove never heard mentioned— and it is certainly « striking one. TI hear the gong going its rounds to awaken the sleepii;, as we breakfast at seven o’clock, and at as early as six & gong is sounded; the same custom prevailed at the Profile House, which belongs to the person who hes this hotel also. I go to bed at nine or soon after, and get up with the light. August 26.—We had rain yesterday, the first which has fallen in this mountain region for three months ; and it gave me an opportunity of seeing how a wet day is got through here. After breakfast, there was a great deal of agreeable music, to which the whole company listened with enjoyment ; two or three young ladies and one gentleman sang duets and trios and lively songs very well. Afterwards, a large party adjourned to the house appropriated to bowling: there are three alleys, and slides for the return of balls; the game was played with sides: it is a good exercise. After joining in one game, I left them, the weather having rather improved, and went out with my umbrella and sketch-book,— as I was anxious to see a view overlooking the house. I got drenched, but succeeded in my wishes, and after dressing, I went down stairs to a comfortable wood-fire in one of the smaller parlours. Before tea there was some needlework THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 67 ieee ee i going on, a whist-table (but no one plays for money here), and a young lady played nursery songs at the piano, six little children belonging to different visitors joining their voices in the choruses, one as young as four, but all were in tune, and seemed to enjoy it much. After tea, there was again music and dancing, and I played a rubber of whist with two gentlemen and a lady till bedtime. One of the gentlemen had lent me a Boston paper containing the last news from Europe, by which it appears that the Island of Aland and the Crimea are both under attack. Some of the people here are South- erns, and two families have black nurses, These mountains attract visitors from all parts of the Union, and I have no doubt the summer meetings —either here, at Newport, Nahant, Saratoga, or the Virginia Springs—tend much to promote acquaint. anceship and good feeling among the different States, which vary so much in their internal laws and regu- lations, Bigamy is severely punished in nearly all, while polygamy has been hitherto not only permitted but encouraged among the Mormons. Yet I am told that the Mormon delegate to Congress is thought a sensible and intelligent man, though he has seyen wives! but it seems to be hoped that much time will not elapse before the immorality and absurdities introduced by Smith and Young, and hitherto enforced upon their deluded followers, will be FQ 68 THE FLUME. cast off. At present their polity is a kind of spiritual despotism; yet it is generally admitted that their community is orderly and very industrious ; though as no man can leave his property to his children or relations, it falls to the church upon his death, and the accumulation of such riches must strengthen the power of the priestly Mormons, and enable them to keep their people in subjection for a considerable time to come. I do not. yet understand how this accumulation of property is to be applied. August 27.—-There is a chapel here, which is used if any clergyman who is travelling can do duty; but that not being the case to-day, service was not read. No church is within an acces- sible number of miles. After dinner, two or three families, consisting of seventeen individuals, went away for the purpose of sleeping to-night at Ply- mouth, twenty-five miles distant, to catch a rail- road there early to-morrow, or, as it is here expressed, ‘to meet the cars.’ Nearly all the travellers and inmates gathered at the door to see the party off, and to wish them good-bye, although many had met here for the first time in their lives. Greater cordiality and kindness of feeling was evinced on this occasion than I ever saw before among people so new to each other, But I am told that in hotels in and near great PEMMEWHASSET. 69 a towns, there is little of that frankness and cor- diality which have so pleasingly impressed me at the White Mountains. The weather was again fine to-day, and in the afternoon I walked alone up the Flume. It is the bed of-a torrent which comes down a very picturesque defile: now, while the water is low, one can walk along the wide, smooth, granite tabular rocks, which during the winter are covered by the foaming waters. I never saw such huge masses of granite before: it is very white and large grained; and as I saw no mica, I suppose it may be sienite. When I returned home, some of the people had got what they called a hedgehog, just caught in the woods ; I did not see it very near, but as it was the size of a small pig, I conclude it must have been some spe- cies of porcupine. August 28.—This morning Miss F and I got to the top of Pemmewhasset, a mountain above this house, from which there is a charming view up and down the valley of the Saco. The ascent was gradual and easy, but we did not reach the Hotel again till long after dinner-time ; and though we met a party going up on horseback, we did not regret having trusted to our own feet, which is much pleasanter than riding, and enables one to look after plants, besides which, I feel more safe, and by sitting down frequently to rest, the fatigue is not very much 70 WELLS RIVER. greater than on horseback. After our return, the weather cleared sufficiently for me to see an exten- sive view of the valley from my window, which has hitherto been hid by smoke and clouds ; and I made a sketch from the verandah. The coach brought many more visitors, among them a Mr. and Mrs. C to-morrow as far as Plymouth, and I am by and , from the South, who will go on with me bye to try if I can visit them at Apilachicola, in Florida. August 29.—I proceed this morning after break- fast, at eight o’clock, for Burlington, going round by Plymouth instead of Lyttleton, to avoid retuwming ten miles by the same route which brought me here ; and I thus see the Saco valley, which I am told is beautiful. August 30.—Wells River, New Hampshire-— This is so pretty a place, that I determined to stop here at three o’clock yesterday, and go on to-morrow by the eleven o’clock cars, which will reach Burling- ton by five. I have a letter to the Bishop of Ver- mont, who lives within a mile or two of that place ; it is on Lake Champlain. The weather is again perfect. I spent all yesterday evening walking about and sketching. The people here vie with one an- other in kindness and civility, yet I have been troubled with nothing unpleasantly obtrusive. From the Flume House we came hither in a coach, with AN EARLY BREAKFAST. 71 six active horses well driven in hand. It carried eighteen passengers, nine inside and nine outside. The road, through deep sand, runs nearly the whole way by the River Saco, the same we passed at Conway. I am told it flows into the sea somewhere near Port- land, and that this valley is not that of Mirimak, but Saco. The Mirimak river is the outpouring of Lake Winnipesiogee. We had observed it flowing by Dover, &c. as we came from Boston; it is a handsome river. Myr. and Mrs. C , from the South, and six other ladies, all agreeable people, were my companions in the coach to Plymouth. We dined there; they took the cars for Boston, and R——- and I ‘for this place. A smaller and a larger river unite here; the Indian name of one is Ama- nonuset. I hope I may find out the translation of it, for these Indian names have always some beau- tiful meahing. The two railroad stations are almost close together: ove is called Woodsville, and an- other Wells River déydét—the word used in America. The hills around, well wooded, but with openings and rocks enough to be picturesque, are tossed about in every direction. All this country is called granitic on Marcow’s geological map ; but we passed through a cutting yesterday which looked more like some- thing Silurian; it might have been a. mica schist of some kind. The breakfast hour here is half-pasi six; and before I start for Burlington by the eleven Wi) ae BURLINGTON. o’clock cars, Mr. Wild, the master of this Wells House Hotel (he was born and brought up in the White Mountains, between the Notch and Profile Houses), offers to show me the rapids of the Con- necticut River. August 31.— Burlington.—I had a pleasant, though hot and dusty journey here yesterday. Not- withstanding the frequent changing of cars, which occurs sometimes four or five times in a distance of about 120 miles, I prefer the American mode of travelling in long cars, to that upon our railroads. I have as yet seen no great carelessness, except that of crossing the roads with no other warning than large boards overhead, on each side with a notice to ‘ Look out for the Engine,’ in large letters —(about Boston, ‘while the bell rings’ is added) ; and it is the duty of the fireman, or the con- ductor, before and after passing every crossway, to ring a large bell, which swings above his head ; but from Plymouth here, I have heard none of these bells. The long cars, which on an average carry sixty each, are comfortable ; you may turn two seats so as to face each other; and though they are in- tended to accommodate two or three each, R and I, by taking possession in time, have always been left to ourselves ; and even if you have a dirty or disagreeable neighbour, it is not half so bad at any CONNECTICUT RIVER. 73 reesei imeem es time as the Rhine steam-boats—for no smoking is allowed in these cars. They are very airy, and have comfortable seats. Thereis a sense of security, too, in the greater width and solidity, and the power of ready communication with every part of the train. I may change my opinion, but hitherto I have found travelling in the American cars less fatiguing than in our railroad carriages. I gained some information from Mr. Wild, in our walk to the rapids before leaving Wells River. R—— and I set off with him about half-past nine o’clock. When we got to the descent through thick forest down to the river, she was obliged to give up the attempt, having got some flowers for me, and too much in her hands for the scrambling necessary. Between the drought and the fir-choppings, it was so slippery that even Mr. Wild fell two or three times in giving me assistance; and I was often obliged to take to my hands and knees, from not being ahle to keep upon my feet ; however, I got down to the edge of the river. The Connecticut widens out here, looking almost like a lake, and then rushes through such a narrow gorge between rocks, that an active hunter might leap his horse from one side to the other. In winter, it must be a fine rush j at present, the river is so low that it can get through the passage quietly enough. I find that three 74 BURLINGTON. rivers meet at this point. I thought there were only two. I suppose, therefore, ‘ Three Rivers,’ which I found marked upon a map I have, is the right name of the place. We returned only just in time for the eleven o’clock train; and as there is no other for Burlington, to have missed this one would have been inconve- nient. I never had such a beautiful drive as that through the whole country to Lake Champlain. As far as White River junction, it follows the Connec- ticut for fifty miles, and then the White River. The scenery may be compared alternately to that of the Tay, the Tweed, and the Tamar, but still finer than all; with gardens, ornamental trees, relieved by maples now getting their scarlet liveries, fore- grounds of maize and brilliant orange pumpkins, and every now and then a column of white smoke rising from the forest fires. These Vermont Mountains are not higher than those around Blair and Invercauld, so that they never rise into the gigantic peaks of the Swiss Alps ; but they are very lovely. On reaching Burlington, though nearly dark, the master of the hotel provided me with a safe little carriage to drive out to the Bishop of Ver- mont’s, about two miles’ distance. I found him with his family, and received an obliging invitation to spend the next day with them. ‘There is not much to be seen at Burlington. I have heard of its beauty, but, RATTLESNAKES. 75 with the exception of the lake, it seems a sandy, uninteresting place,—the lake itself looking like a sea; and it would take seven or eight hours to steam rapidly down it. I find myself in a com- fortable, large hotel, well provided in all respects. At ten o’clock, I walked with R out to the Bishop’s. I did not see a great many flowers on our way, owing to the vegetation being so burned up; but I found fine trees of the black oak, covered with acorns with large dumpy cups: the ‘ pigeon grass’ (so called here), and a pretty little vetch. I made a sketch of the lake, and of Burlington, from the Bishop’s verandah—a fine eagle soaring about as an accessory to the view ; and, after an early dinner, we walked down to a beautiful little rocky bathing bay, where the children disport themselves in the water without the least fear or danger. Grow- ing among sand and rocks, a pretty Iris in seed. Whether unknown in England or not, I cannot tell ; but in going through a rocky copse, I gathere? a fern, and several things new to my eyes ; and on the shore I picked up some fresh-water shells. I uuderstand there are rattlesnakes in one or two spots in this neighbourhood, but it seems they have so large a bump of ‘locality,’ that they remain as constant to particular spots as flowers to their habitats. So that, unless un: goes to visit them, there is no danger of making their acquaintance; therefore I "6 QUEBEC. ed GS ee er er eee shall always inquire their whereabouts. I did not take my leave till near eight o’clock at night. September 2.—Quebec, Spencer Wood.—As T left Burlington in the steamer, to take the cars at Roches Point, by four o’clock in the morning, ar- rived at Montreal by eleven, and left for Quebec at seven in the evening, I had no time for writing, yesterday. Dr. L-——, the professor and a clergy- man, was so obliging as to take me a pleasant drive round the heights, from whence we had a fine view of the St. Lawrence River and the neighbourhood. I visited the RomanCatholic church and the Museum, where I saw some stuffed specimens of the wild beasts which are now becoming extinct in the woods of this part of Canada. I saw also a specimen of a small owl which is peculiar to these parts. Before seven o’clock we went on board the steamer, which was very full of passengers for Quebec. Among them a party of squaws and Indian boys from some tract bordering upon this great river: they had a large assortment of neat and showy handiworks in i » a I ‘4 of beads for sale—gentlemen’s travelling caps, bags, slippers, and watch-cases, and seemed to be very shrewd and cautious in carrying on their bargains, though I could not make them understand either French or English. I do not know when they ‘absquatulated’ (to use a Far West expression), but as we stopped several times during the night, and I NIGHT VOYAGE. "7 did not see them afterwards, I cuppose they landed somewhere. We did not undress. As some indi- viduals of our large party in the ladies’ cabin were talking or moving about at all times during the night, we could only get snatches of sleep in our berths ; and I thought this night’s voyage so tiresome and tedious, that with the first dawn of light I went on deck ; but owing to the great width of the river, and the steamer keeping in mid-channel, we were not close enough to either shore to make her progress in- teresting. I think the St. Lawrence js nearly as wide as Ullswater is long, and it is difficult to realize that we are traversing a river instead of crossing a lake, I saw very little shipping till we arrived at Quebec —a few lumber schooners at anchor here and there, but nothing sailing; very different this from the live- liness of the sea around Beverley and Salem. The population of Quebec and Montreal, upon a first’ inspection, does not look so well-to-do and thriving as that of Boston, and some other American cities: this may be partly owing ic the prevalence of toman Catholics here, Just as one finds it in Europe. Where that persuasion has the ascendency, the people are either stationary or retrograde; and in Quebec there are more churches and more beggars than in any other place I have yet seen on this side the Atlantic. Indeed, I never met a beggar in Boston—not even among the Irish; and ladies have told me they 73 SPENCER WOOD. could not find a poor family on whom to exercise their benevolent feelings. We arrived at this place by breakfast time: it has a thoroughly English appearance, with a splendid view of the St. Law- rence from the windows. Lord Elgin tells me this is the day for the letters to go, so I must conclude hastily; and, as there is rain, I shall probably do little more to-day than stay indoors and rest myself. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. ‘ercise place nglish Law- etters re is 1 stay M. LETTER VIL. QUEBEC. Spencer Woop, QUEBEC, Sept. 2, 1854. My pear Frienps, I suspect that the end of the letter which I sent off yesterday, just after my arrival, was dated the 3rd instead of the 1st: my notions about days and dates were rather confused, from having been very little in bed since Wednesday night. I find now that my letter written a week ago from Wells River, to fix the day of my coming here, never reached Lord Elgin: the American post-office does not appear to be as exact or as well-regulated as ours. I hope you receive all my packets? I think this will be the fifth or sixth letter I have sent off. I generally write about oue a fortnight— but not a line from you yet, or from any one in Eng- land, excepting a letter I have got from Mr. § , dated August 2nd ; but despatches from home are ex- pected to-day, and I hope to get something. This 80 SPENCER WOOD. morning, at seven o’clock, it is still thick and rainy— I cannot even see the St. Lawrence from my window ; and all day yesterday we had a large coal fire. September is considered the last of the summer months in Canada; and with the leaves still green, the weather looks and feels, at present, very like a mild November in England. This is a large house, with a good conservatory, and handsome reception-rooms, though they are con- sidered low for their size. The fields and turf look as green as in England—the first bit of fresh-looking grass I have! seen these three weeks. At Montreal there was not the least appearance of verdure, and very few trees, even immediately about the town, though the villas and the hills are well wooded. I found that place prettier than I expected; but it must be an uninteresting residence, as there appears to be but one drive around the hill at the back. A bridge on the tubular principle, which will be the largest in the world, is begun; it is to unite the town with the railroad over the St. Lawrence; I was told that 1600 workmen are already employed in its construction. It is the undertaking of an English company, and may vie with our Crystal Palace in the enterprise and skill it will call forth. Lord Elgin is much occupied just now by the opening of the new Canadian Parliament, on the 6th; and of course the party spirit, and agitation, and iny — ndow ; | fire. mmer sreen, like a atory, e con- ’ look oking ntreal , and town, d. I but it pears Bok e the ‘e the ce; I yed in nglish ace in y the e 6th; » and A COMPARISON, 81 eens crieseitnenpicadanilsmnnianmaniiiseiessatse aegis jealousy which the reform and enlargement of that body have excited is unbounded. Everyone wants to do and to be everything ; and though to an impartial stranger it is a difficult matter to comprehend what these people would be at, yet it is interesting to observe the fforts of a young nation to make use of a newly-acquired power. It resembles the first attempts of an infant to exercise its legs—eager, awkvard, and almost alarming, though neces. sary and salutary to gain habit, future strength, and experience; but as patience and temper are re- quired from a good nurse when her child begins to walk alone ; so even the calmness and placability of Lord Elgin is likely to be severely tried by his wayward children here—they may even quarrel with their own bread-and-butter, to begin with, Sept. 3.—Monday.—I had a day of repose yes. terday. The gentlemen went off early to their official duties, and I was very glad to rest myself, and gather up my thoughts a little. We dined at seven, and I went early to bed. This morning an English mail arrived, and we got letters. Cholera seems worse in England than I had any idea of ; that complaint has abated here. In the afternoon, Lord Elgin drove me in his phaeton to the Cathedral at Quebec—a large respectable building, with a good organ, remarkably well played, and the singing led by the pleasing voices of young Quebec VOL. I. G IMAGE EVALUATION | TEST TARGET (MT-3) 16 14 1.25 a graphic Photo 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 sciences Corporation (716) 872-4503 * ‘ . a “ eek. a 82 QUEBEC. delist erin dros ladies and gentlemen. After church, we walked on the platform overlooking the St. Lawrence, where’ there is an extensive and beautiful view. Before going home, we called to inquire after a sick young lady at Sir H. C 4s, and saw another fine view of Quebec, with its mountains and river; we walked back from thence two miles to Spencer Wood. The Sunday amusement of young men here seems to be driving about little gigs, or wagons as they are called, in the most reckless and furious way possible : it seemed to me as if they would knock down even their Governor-General without the least compunc- tion, if he happened to be in their way ! September 5.—I did not write yesterday. In the morning I was absorbed by a file of English newspapers down to the eighteenth of last month. Alas! social questions seem to be still made of secondary importance by the war. Not a word about the erring children, so I conclude nothing has been done to save them from deeper crime. A young man of twenty, at Dartmoor, has made a most furious and savage attempt on the life of one of the keepers. Ten years ago that man was a child—who but the Parent State is to blame that he is now a murderer ? September 6.—In the afternoon of yesterday, I spent three hours botanizing. There are some interesting plants in a wood not far distant, par- ked on where ' Before young 1€ view walked l. The 3 to be ley are ossible : ym even mpunc- y. In English month. nade of 2 word nothing - crime. is made life of lan was me that sterday, re some nt, par- A PARADOX. 83 Reiman. es ticularly some ferns, worth transplanting into our English gardens. The Governor-G the Parliament to-day ; to choose their Speake being delivered to eneral opened but as he leaves them T, preparatory to his speech “morrow, I put off going till then. I went to call upon a lady to whom I had a letter of introduction: she lives for the present (while out of town) at a cottage within a walk of this place, where I found a garden with Some interesting plants of this country, and one of the most. venerable-looking paper birch trees I have yet seen, for they have generally been straight and of ho great size; this has many arms branching to the ground. Mrs, M told me that only yesterday a humming- bird came to the creeper near her window. I did not know they were found so far north ; and I have not yet been so fortunate as to see one. A Mr. Sicotte has been elected Speaker, upon the principle (as far as I can understand it) by which the Americans most usually elect their Presidents, Neither party being able to secure the election of their own man, they unite in voting for an indi- vidual not popular with either 3 80 that in practice a popular election makes an unpopular choice :—what a paradox! Each individual voter saying to himself, ‘If I am not to have my own man, no one else shall have his man;’ and so nobody’s man is the man chosen :—is not this an odd practice? A very stormy G2 | | ' ' i i i 1 { 1 L 84 QUEBEC. night—thunder and lightning, and rain—very cold, too. How lucky we have been that the bad weather has kept off till now, when, in a comfortable house with a bright fire, we can rest; and, enjoying the retrospect of past sunshine, look forward to an Indian summer for Niagara. September 7.—Another cold and gloomy-looking morning, so I wrote letters, hoping for sunshine by three o’clock, when we were to go to Quebec to hear the Governor-General make his speech to the Cunadian Parliament. The weather cleared up in the middle of the day; Captain H drove me into the town, and Colonel I Mrs. and Miss I in the gallery of the concert- room, where the Canadian Parliament has assembled since their own houses were burned. The whole place was crammed, and in the gallery were nearly as many ladies as gentlemen; the assembly showing the most breathless interest. Behind the throne there is a repo~*rrs’ galery; before it a table and chairs for the judges, of whom Mr. Bowen is the oldest in the Queen’s dominions. On each side were rows of double desks, covered with crimson, two members sitting at each; and as they choose their own seats, and retain them, a man can have his par- ticular friend by him during the session—an advan- tage, particularly in this country. The ceremony is much like that in England. Guns are fired when the placed me with PASSES | qn ag intial : Ps ry cold, veather » house ng the Indian looking shine ebec to ech to ured up ove me ae with oncert- embled whole : nearly jhowing throne ble and is the th ~=side on, two se their his par- -advan- mony is hen the LORD ELGIN. 85 , with- ectors,’ ainister he ser- hat the effected service hat he tented, DEEDS, NOT wonrps. gt enamel and adverse to the rule of England; and that he gives it up, leaving them rapidly progressing, happy and loyal, with railroads opening and opened in all directions; the most magnificent bridge in the world in progress, to connect the opposite shores of the St. Lawrence ; matters which have long been the cause of disunion and irritation permanently and irrevo- cably put to rest; and the revenues of the two divisions of Canada trebled in amount. Deeds, not words. Mr. Hincks may not have said all he might have said for his own glorification, or even for the reputation of the Governor-General ; but he has left his office, having completed and carried out mea- sures for which the Canadians will have reason to bless the rule of Lord Elgin as long as their country has a name; and, before one winter has passed over it, I am inclined to believe they will be sensible of the benefits which their late minister has been instrumental in securing to them, and who, upon looking round their House of Assembly, stands almost as superior to his detractors as Sir R. Peel Once rose above those who believed themselves equal to attacking him. The House adjourned till Monday, immediately Mr. Hincks resumed his Seat; and then numerous members—even Cochon and others who had been in Opposition—rushed forward to offer their hands: it was quite an interesting scene, and I observed tears on the cheeks of many. 92 QUEBEC. this ; MONSIEUR BRODEUR, 93 teenies nneiesnssinsinieeecices and I shall like much to profit by what may be my only opportunity of becoming acquainted with the manners and habits of Lower Canada, which I be- lieve are in many respects very different from those of the Upper Province, It seems that poor Monsieur Timothy Brodeur, the cause of all the disputes and excitement in the Parliament the day before yesterday, is a deputy from Mr. C ’s neighbourhood ; that his error has been wholly owing to want of knowledge. He was made to come forward rather against his own inclination, and has sacrificed his tastes and his domestic enjoyment to get into this hot water— poor man! Of course he is very much annoyed. It seems that most of the business of his return was conducted by another officer, but he unwit- tingly signed the paper himself, not being aware of the consequence, and the matter was taken up by another French Canadian, who, being a Rouge, wished, I suppose, to spite his quieter countryman ; but one thing is certain, that Timothy Brodeur is not likely to attach himself to the Rouges after this business. He is an acquaintance of the new Speaker, Monsieur Sicotte, who was proposed by the Rouge party. By the bye, he seems a gentlemanly, quiet man, who conducts the business pleasantly, and who, I should imagine, will be very generally liked by the members, though he seems to have been a man little a b i. Fo a5 3 ‘ = = tu ¢ . . : Capers < at Nivea aceeeeaenmereniee mies peer eT Le ot 04 QUEBEC. fr leesehies senile aepseiideounluiohiblldoecccigk: known till he hapnened to be brought forward on this occasion. : If this day is fine, I shall make interest with the gardener, and get him to accompany me with his spade to a wood near, to dig up some ferns, and then I will pack up the roots and send them straight to England from hence, which I think may give them a better chance of existence than going all round by Boston. Lord Elgin is going to have a dinner-party this evening, when the twelve retiring ministers will be present. I shall have the luck of seeing the two Cabi- nets all together upon two different days—the Outs and the Ins. This will be a fine opportunity for specu- lation. No one yet knows the names of the men likely to be put together by Sir Allan M‘Nab, who may be considerec the Lord Derby of Canada; and he will have a similar difficulty as the one which beset the English Conservatives,—for no minister can stand here who attempts to preserve the Clergy Reserves : whether right or wrong, the people are almost unani- mous In my river Montmorenci pours down, almost suddenly, s time, more than two hundred feet—a height greater than y reach Niagara. It is received by the magnificent St. Lawrence, and the views ten miles up it, to Quebec, and almost as far down, to Cape Tourmente, are very fine. The drive home was beautiful. Owing to a custom here of roofing churches and houses with tin plates, the city of Quebec looked, in the sun- set, as if gemmed with diamonds. We had a bright, frosty-looking sun, with the air as cold as in Novem- ber, in England. All the ex-ministers dined here VOL. 1. H NA ENS crac =e 98 QUEBEC. Sastre nnn to-day. During the evening I was told of another place, called Three Rivers, between this and Mon- treal, where some beautiful Scenery is accessible. By stopping there one day in my way back, I should break the fatiguing monotony of another night voyage. Sunday, Sept. 10.—We went to morning service at Quebec; very cold drive; a sharp north-easterly wind. In the afternoon we walked to the Protestant Cemetery upon the next point above this place—a beautiful situation. We passed two handsome new churches, almost finished, within a quarter of a mile of each other; one Roman Catholic, the other Protestant. They were Gothic, built of the pleasing coloured grey stone of the country. Though the great mass of the population around and in Quebec are Roman Catholics, one does not hear of reli. gious disputes: since Gavazzi excited an uproar at Montreal, I believe nothing of that kind has occurred. I went to call upon a Canadian lady, near eighty years of age, who understands the botany of this country better than any one I have met with. In earlier years, during the time of a former Lady Dalhousie, Mrs. M acquired this taste from her, and she is quite pleased to have it revived , She took me to Quebec, and at three o’clock, T went to see the Canadian Parliament assemble. Sir Allan M‘Nab was announced as the new minister ; having formed his Government upon coalition prin- f another nd Mon- ible. By I should er night x service -easterly rotestant place—a me new f a mile e other pleasing ugh the Quebec of reli_ roar at ccurred. ' eighty of this th. In r Lady se from revived, slock, TI le. Sir inister ; n prin- THE CLERGY RESERVES. 99 eae eames ee ORO oe aes a ciples, he has taken in all the old ministers but three; changing his policy upon the Clergy Reserves, &c. &c., from deference to the general voice of this country. Sir Allan is perfectly aware that no Government can stand which refuses to adjust the Clergy Reserves. It is supposed that there are not now ten votes in the House willing to support them. So it seems the new Government comes in, only to carry out the views of their prede- Cessors ; a strong proof that this change is only made for the sake of something fresh. Of course the new ministers could not take part in the de- bates, as they must be re-elected. Mr. Hincks made a frank and. clear statement, in refutation of accusations which have been freely circulated during the last few days to the effect that he had recommended his successor, and sold his party to him. At’ the same time he expressed his intention of supporting the new administration, as long as they were willing to carry out good measures. I re- mained in the House till it was time to return to dinner at Spencer Wood; the speeches were gene- rally dull, excepting those of a few, whose disap- pointment and anger, at the result of the changes, created some excitement. One speaker ' actually maintained that any attack out of doors upon the character of a prime minister, was sufficient to render him 3.°ft to continue in office, because such H 2 eae ese ; ‘ es ws 4 100 QUEBEC. yosnot eee eretcerldnpiehuinseesinnepnmnihns acanatiipeiiaadisisii nei ites tae 4 attacks weakened the confidence of the people, and agitated the country ;—so, according to this doctrine, a leader is to be always at the mercy of the men- dacious scandal-mongers of a community !—a most extraordinary political axiom. Captain H drove me and -Mr. C—— home; it was a cold, frosty night, but not quite so sharp as yesterday, when Dahlias and potatoes were cut down ; but I console myself by hoping this may be all the winter I shall get, if I proceed towards the South in December. It strikes me as singular that the weather should be so cold, while the leaves are stil] upon the trees, for I see none fallen, and only here and there a branch of foliage turning red and yellow. September 12.—Yesterday, a lady took me to visit at a very pretty place called here Carouge, a corruption of Cap-rouge, on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where the river Carouge falls into it. The view froin the windows reminded of Colonel Har- court’s, near Ryde. I gathered acorns off two or three oaks there, differing from ours: one with the mid-rib of the leaf red; and, ultimately, I hope to collect all the American species. In a wood near the house, some Indians had erected a wigwam, ob- long in form, and not very picturesque ; it was lined throughout with birch bark. The drive from Spencer Wood to Cap-rouge along the banks of the river is very beautiful ; the villas between the ple, and octrine, e men» ‘& most H a cold, iterday, n; but all the South at the re still ly here yellow. me to ouge, a he St. t. The _ Har- two or th the ope to l near m, ob- ; lined from ks of n the THE INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION. 101 sph etiiealetlbienle aii i alg ligt oe road and the banks belong principally to merchants engaged in the lumber trade, for the edge of the river all the way to Quebec is covered by rafts of timber, and numerous vessels are ready to convey it to England. September 13.—I spent the morning with my old friend at Ash Cottage. She gave me many spe- cimens of the early-blowing flowers, of which I can now only find the leaves, among them the Mocassin. We afterwards drove along a beautiful river coast road, and went through St. Foy. In the evening there was a ball here, attended by many pretty young Canadian ladies, who were dressed in good taste, and danced well; their general appearance and manners were beyond what is to be commonly met with at country town balls in England. I made the ac- quaintance of a Mr. Cameron, who lives near Lake Huron, and who promises that his daughters shall introduce me to the plants of that vicinity. September 14.—Lord Elgin took me to the great Agricultural and Industrial Exhibition of Quebec, held in a fine situation overlooking the river. I saw some interesting things: one useful little instru- ment, not much larger than a hoe, a kind of earth- boring screw, with which you can dig to the depth of two or three feet in as many minutes. There were a few minerals, and some very pure-looking gold, found about sixty miles from hence; but unfortunately 102 QUEBEC. etree eaineareraenieanpainisninaiinenniina dis oc ig ci these things were placed so much in the dark, that it was difficult to see them. An address was pre- sented to the Governor-General, which, though un- expected on his part, he replied to, in. a speech made with great promptness and facility. An early ‘dinner, with champagne, was prepared by the committee for him and the gentlemen assembled. A farmer from London, Upper Canada, made a very purpose-like and fluent speech, and gave a general invitation to an agricultural show which is to take place in his town on the 26th instant. The sheep were scanty and. poor at this exhibition. I did not much admire the pigs, though some were thought good ; but there was a fine show of Ayrshire cattle, and very good cart horses; no Durham cattle, which are not thought to suit this country ; but the London gentleman said they were popular in his. part of the world. I was disappointed in the flower-tent : what they had of flowers and fruits having been almost destroyed the night. before last, when a storm of wind blew down the tent upon them. Rain kept off during the show, but a wet evening followed. One amusing part of the scene was the different. fire- brigades with their engines, competing for prizes, given according to the height to which they could eject the water. This part of the affair was very en- tertaining to a large majority of the crowd. A great number of people from various districts were present. rk, that ‘as pre- ugh un- speech . An red by embled. & very general to take e sheep lid not hought cattle, which sondon art of r-tent : r been storm n kept lowed. t. fire- prizes, could ry en- great esent. A MALCONTENT. 103 EEE AE EES OES St SES eos no I spent the afternoon at the house of a very pleasant kind family, and went to the House of Deputies be- fore eight o’clock, hoping to hear the conclusion of an adjourned. debate upon the Address. I found the members engaged in conversation upon the mo- tion of Mackenzie, the former rebel. Heis a singu- larly wild-looking little man, with red hair, waspish and fractious in manner—one of that kind of people who would not sit down content under the govern- ment of an angel. He has evidently talent and energy, but he seems intent only upon picking holes in other men’s coats. He spends the money of the colonists with great profusion for one pur- pose—printing returns from which he hopes to cull something which may damage somebody. He moved last night for the returns of all names of indi- vidual shareholders in banks, railroads, or companies of any description! Some members opposed. this, as wasteful of the public money, and useless to the public business ; only likely to minister to a prying, morbid curiosity about the affairs of private persons, and to be the means of annoying individuals who might not like their investments to be made a topic of gossiping conversation. Mr. Mackenzie ended by adjourning his motion. Upon the order of the day for going on with the debate about the Address, Dr. Rolph got up and made what seemed to me a very pompous and unfounded attack upon the Governor- 104 QUEBEC. Tooter erereenteenneemrinnpitnssimaimetisibiaenicetits ccs a General for having, upon his own judgment, selected Sir A. M‘Nab to form the new ministry. Dr, Rolph maintained that it was a breach of the Constitution for the Crown to send for any man to organize a new government without the advice of a minister ; that if the late Premier did not tender his advice on this occasion, it was his duty to have done so ; that if he did not tender his advice, it was the constitutional duty of the Governor-General to have taken that of this person; or that person (and here Dr. Rolph gave the names of several gentlemen, whom he seemed to consider more fit for the Premiership than Sir Allan), and” he ended by saying, if none of these would do, ‘ You, Mr. Speaker, ought to ‘have been sent for.” I thought all this very extraordinary, and contrary to the English modes of procedure ; and so it appeared did the assembly. I was surprised to hear afterwards that Dr. Rolph had been considered one of the most gifted, powerful, and dangerous of demagogues, ‘till the Governor-General, ‘by trying him in office, showed how little talent he’ really pos- sessed. I did not get away till nearly midnight, and the House adjourned directly afterwards. September 15.—I had intended to have crossed over to the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence, to see falls called‘ the Chaudiére, but the’ weather looked gloomy and unfavourable, and having other things to do, I put off that expedition: and this was fortunate, selected . Rolph titution 2 a new r; that on this at if he utional n that Rolph seemed ian Sir these e been ry, and and so sed to idered ous of trying Y pos- t,; and ‘ossed tO see 0ked igs to nate, A BOTANICAL EXCURSION, 105 as I should have otherwise missed Mr. F , whose energetic devotion to the cause of the emigrants from England made me desirous to know him: he came out a steerage passenger in the Cleopatra—a sacrifice of comfort he has before made, with the view of ascer- taining practically the treatment of emigrants. He is again going west, for information which may assist the cause he has espoused ; and if I had not been so fortunate as to see him this morning, he would have left Quebec. I drove in with Lord B and Mr. F to the Government Office, and introduced the latter to Mr. O——, who gave him an invitation from Lord Elgin to dine at Spencer Wood. The afternoon turned out very fine, and I had a delightful botanical excursion across the river to Point Levi: upon rocks, and along the edge of the water, I found one of the only two Primulas of America, the rare Hedysarum boreale, Primula Mistassinica, Lobelia Kalmii, Gentiana saponaria, &c. &c., all beautiful plants, and quite new to me. This locality was pointed out to me by Mr. Shepherd, the enthusiastic and intelligent Scotch seedsman of Montreal. With- out a hint, I should never have found the Primula, as it is, of course, not in flower now. I made two sketches—one of Quebec, which looks well from this place, and another of the Island of Orleans, with Cape Tourmente, and the mountains behind the Falls of Montmorenci ; these can only be seen from the 106 | QUEBEC. . 1 NONERER: Sa aa ee : = = - eo = ~ SS ee o Sesame 112 QUEBEC, hearing that the Assembly had sat all night, and were still discussing the amendment on the Address, which, after all, was only to substitute the word ‘secularization’ for ‘ adjustment.’ I was fortunate in getting to the House about half-past two o’clock, before the adjournment ; so I was present at the finale, when there was a great majority for the Ministers, — and it was agreed, without a division, that the Address should be carried up to-morrow by the whole House, which should adjourn till four o’clock, Thursday. September 21.—Colonel Tulloch, the Government Commissioner for settling and looking after the mili- tary pensioners who have had grants of land in Canada, dined here. He has been very successful in improving their condition, and land is not—as it used to be—a misfortune, rather than a blessing, to the pensioned soldier. This improvement is parily owing to Colonel Tulloch’s plan of making the grant to consist of three or four acres instead of one hundred, as was formerly the case, when the occupant, unfit to clear and bring into cultivation so large a portion, was ruined by it. Now, the smaller allotments are cultivated garden fashion ; and one individual made fifty pounds last year from his three acres, principally by growing vegetables for the Toronto market. In case of the death of an: occu- pant, his widow is left in possession on condition ht, and \ddress, e word rtunate o’clock, e finale, nisters, — 1at_ the by the »’ clock, rnment e mili- and in sful in it used to the parily ig the ead of on the ivation w, the n; and mm his for the -occu- dition Cae ee eee tn ta ete nd OLS ge ea ei that she remarries with no one but a soldier ; and no widow has ever yet (Colonel Tulloch declares) re- mained two months without a husband. Such is the anxiety for a housewife, that men of fifty marry widows fifteen years older than themselves, rather than remain bachelors. What a chance for anti- quated spinsters wishing to change their state ! Four of the gentlemen who dined here yesterday sang Negro and Canadian boat songs in the evening, all in good time and tune; they are very pretty airs. The vist Regiment embarks for England on Saturday, much regretted here. I think this is the most variable climate I ever visited. Last night it was bitterly cold; this morning the sun shines, and everything again looks summerish, while yesterday, no wraps could enable me to stand for ten minutes at the citadel to finish my sketch ; but I am told this month is not usually so cold ; there have been many icebergs seen lately near the coast, and that is supposed to be the reason of the unusual frigidity we feel here. I miss the furs which were left behind at Boston, supposed to he useless encumbrances at this time of year; but it is to be hoped that, after my return to Montreal, I shall find myself again in a warmer climate. There is certainly more difference between the temperature of the two places than the distance would lead one to expect: here, the grass has been extremely ver- YOL. f, i CANADIAN PENSIONERS. 113 a : ™ H . . Pi oN RE Sn eee | ee - | Se ee 114 QUEBEC. ea a OC rN I RON OR dant this summer, while at Montreal every blade was burnt up; and I saw nothing green whatever, ex- cept the trees. TI am afraid my hopes of going back by rail are illusory. Sir Cusack Rowney was here yesterday, and he seems to consider the line wholly impassable at present, and likely to remain so till the 16th of next month; so, instead of going by cars to-day, I must delay till Saturday, and then reconcile myself to the steam-boat passage down the St. Lawrence; now, I shall not have time to stop at Three Rivers. September 22.—Yesterday I was present at the Roman Catholic Archbishop’s palace, to see the assemblage of the clergy of that persuasion, for the laying the first stone of a college. There were seven bishops, besides the archbishop, all benevolent looking men. There does not seem to be much re- ligious bigotry with that Church here—or at any rate it keeps out of sight—and the present Governor- General does all in his power to maintain peace and charity among the differing Churches. He made a most eloquent and facile speech in French, although wholly unprepared. He alluded to the vast progress in the material world; to the marvels of electricity and of steam, by the agency of which the inhabitants of remote settlements are brought into connexion, and railroads convey the luxuries of civilization to the backwoods of Canada and the solitary dwellings 4a pt © wf of lade was ver, €X- f going ney was he line remain r going id then wn the stop at at the ee the for the > were evolent ich re- ny rate vernor- ce and nade a though ‘OgTress tricity oitants exion, ion to sllings LORD ELGIN. 115 SuAiiswsemamae ne nents of the Far West. He then reminded the assemblage of differing Christians that the spiritual empire of religion and morality could only be made to keed pace with material progress through the cordial union of Protestant and Catholic, in the great work of educating the young, and guiding the mature, by the lights of piety and truth. The observers and listeners of each Church appeared interested anp pleased, and I trust something was effected on this occasion towards allaying and appeasing their dif- ferences. I went to make my sketch from the citadel, and afterwards returned to the Government House, to get a peep through an open door of the ceremony of taking up an Address by the whole Canadian House of Commons. It was much the same as in England. The Roman Catholic bishops afterwards presented a loyal address to Lord Elgin. I drove Mrs. K to her father’s house on the St. Foy road, and went to take leave of Mrs. Monta- zambert, in my way back to Spencer Wood. There was a party of twelve at dinner—several ladies, September 2 3.—Yesterday I went a long expedition with Col. I » to see the Falls of the Chaudiére. We crossed the ferry at Point Levi, and the drive of about ten miles on the other side of the St. Lawrence, nearly following the line of the new rail- way to Montreal, is very beautiful: the St, Law- rence on the right, streams and rivers occasion- 12 116 QUEBEC. Mebtoc ihdbciealatneiuire slacthsieseanicis hades ids cea ally flowing into it; and rough cliffs, and woods, and hamlets, all along the left hand. The rocks in some places were shaded with soft grey, yellow, and brown; and all was pleasant but the road, which proved difficult, rough, and sometimes dangerous ; more than usually so (I was told), owing to the rail- road operations; but the old French Canadian, and his little black horse, which drew our caléche, did not seem at all put out, by what in England would heve been thought impracticable, even though the way was evidently not well known to him, and he took us three or four miles above the Falls to a rail- road bridge over the Chaudiére, so that we were obliged to retrace our steps; and this, with the intricacy of the place itself, when we got there, wasted some time. The body of water which comes down is more considerable than that of Montmo- renci, and the spray was too wetting for us to do more than take a glimpse of the Fall from above. I believe we ought to have been on the other side, but there was not time to remedy this mistake, and the view we did get was fine. We scrambled through a thick forest, and came out, through bog and brake, some way from the place where we had left the car- riage ; so Col. I—— walked back for it, and I went on to get a sketch of the Chaudiére, where it joins the St. Lawrence. The sun was setting before we got to the shore, nearly opposite Spencer Wood, and if we ods, and in some ow, and 1, which igerous ; the rail- ian, and che, did d would ugh the and he ) a rail- y7e were ith the ; there, 1 comes [ontmo- s to do bove. I ide, but und the ‘ough a brake, he car- I went yins the got to d if we CANADIAN LADIES. 117 Sesdprievtovnensehesnso oases sesiebaniolananionceacianbpyussiiesecebkoemneesuscaipmiss had again taken the roundabout way, by Point Levi, we might have missed the last ferry, besides incurring the chance of breaking down before getting there ; but we were fortunate in finding a hospitable lumber merchant and his wife, who welcomed us to their warm and comfortable fire-side, and sent us at once across the river in their little boat. We landed at a wharf, about two miles from Spencer House, and got home before eight o’clock, so that I had time to get some dinner and rest, before dressing for a ball, given by Lord Elgin, as a farewell to the officers of the departing 71st Regiment, which is to embark to-morrow for England (Sept. 23rd). The dance was very lively and brilliant, and was kept up till past three o’clock this morning. The Canadian ladies certainly amuse themselves more easily and pleasantly than we do; they are more like the French, in their enjoyment of passing moments, and are generally pretty, natural, and well dressed , so that I have found their acquaintance agreeable. The Governor-General went in state to-day, to give his assent to the Reciprocity Bill; and that glorious measure is now all settled, happily for both countries. There was a very large dinner-party here, almost entirely composed of Deputies and their Speaker ; and we all went to bed considerably tired with the fatigues of the last week. I had intended to have departed by this afternoon’s steamer for 118 QUEBEC. ieee ee ee Montreal, but since that arrangement was made, Lord Elgin has decided upon going himself to Upper Canada, on Monday, and the railroad Directors have therefore made a great exertion for the purpose of conveying him along the new line, so I shall benefit by being of his party as far as Montreal; and thus, after all, escape that odious night voyage down the river, besides which, I shall have an agreeable drive through a beautiful country by daylight, and do the journey in eight hours instead of twelve. I will write again from the next place, which will probably be Major C ’s, St. Heliers, near Montreal. No letters for me again! This i, +: ’ disappointing. Your affectionate, A. M. M. I shall get no letters now for three weeks, as my tour in Upper Canada will take at least that time ;.and anything which comes here must be for- warded to Albany, care of the Governor of New York. ste "a she | made, > Upper ors have ‘pose of benefit id thus, wn the le drive and do which s, near to vere _M. eks, as t that oe for- ' New LETTER IX. MONTREAL. Monrreat, September 27. My pear Frienps— By seven o’clock yesterday morning, Lord Elgin and his suite were ready for embarkation in a rowing boat which was to cross the St. Lawrence from the Cove beneath Spencer Wood. The weather proved favourable, less cold, and, though rather damp, not rainy. Quebec looked fine in the misty atmo- sphere, the citadel looming above it, and much ship- ping upon the river below. I felt sorry to leave that beautiful place, but we had an agreeable passage across; and a little boy, the son of Mr. K ; only ten years old, sang Canadian boat songs with great spirit. On the opposite shore we found Sir Cusack and Lady Rowney, and the chief conductors and engineers of the Great Trunk Railroad, waiting with a car. They gave us a plentiful lunch on our way to Richmond, where we joined the original line. That place and Melbourne are on each side of the 120 MONTREAL, ae St. Francis River, both prettily situated. This single line from Quebec is in so unfinished a state, that as yet there are no fences, and it required some skill and caution to avoid smashing the cattle which had strayed upon the way. We were often suddenly brought-up for this reason ; and once the coupling of the engine broke, from the unsettled state of the trams, and we saw the machine running off from us without its followings ; however, no harm ensued, we caught our horse again, and it went on Te) rapidly as to complete our journey in about seven hours. Opposite Montreal we found the Beaver, a powerful steam.vessel belonging to the company, awaiting Lord Elgin’s arrival. She took us up (in spite of the stream running like a mill race) to the side of the works for the stupendous tubular bridge which is in progress, The Governor-General laid a first stone for the second pier, in the bed of the St. Lawrence. We were then rowed across a rapid to the first, which is already a mass of most beau- tiful solid masonry, strong enough to resist even the winter ice and floods of this gigantic river. A trowel was given to me, and I was invited to put in the mortar for a corner-stone of twelve tons weight, which we then saw lowered into its place ; to remain, as far as human eyes can judge, as long as the world lasts, The material used is a hard black-looking limestone (and I heard of organic remains being sparingly 3 single that as ne skill ich had iddenly yupling of the rom us nsued, on so seven wer, a pany, up (in to the bridge 1 laid of the rapid beau- n the rowel ortar h we ‘ar as lasts. VICTORIA BRIDGE. 121 diesiresrsneenesipnerenatenetonmensstybsistesnneenntneseipemmmanasnssgunisiec__. dispersed in it)—probably Silurian. After much cheering for the Queen and the Governor-General, and the future Victoria Bridge, we steamed up the river again, and landed Lord Elgin at the Lake Champlain railroad station, Albany, being his best route for London, Upper Canada, where he goes to _ attend an agricultural meeting, My Canadian ac- quaintance, Mr. K——-, brought me here to his sister’s house, which I find a pretty villa, rather out of the town, with an extensive garden overlooking Montreal and the St. Lawrence. September 28.—I went yesterday to seek out all my baggage, which came up by the steamer, as it could not readily be carried over chasms in the rail- way. After visiting Lady R——, and the intelligent seedsman Shepherd, at whose house I saw some very good drawings executed by his daughter (both flowers and figures), I returned to Mrs. J ’s, and after lunch she and Mr. J , with the other gentle- men, took me a drive to see the cemetery, which is being established upon a finely-wooded hill, about three miles from Montreal. We drove back by the light of a brilliant young moon, which promises well for my three weeks’ tour in Upper Canada. This morning I spent in the town of Montreal, making some arrangements and re-packing my baggage, so as to forward everything which I do not require for Upper Canada, to await my arrival at Albany. At three 122 ST. HILAIRE. reesei ndneasduasangg o’clock, Mr. J—— took me to the Ferry Wharf, where we found Major C—, whose place I had engaged to visit. After crossing the river, we had about twenty-five miles of railroad to his newly-built house, St. Hilaire, on the Richelieu,—a river as wide as the Thames at Battersea. A sweeping curve brought us up to the station, after going over a bridge. We had passed by the farms and holdings of habitans attached to another seigneurie, before reaching that of Major C——; but all these small farms are monotonous, bare-looking strips of land, without a twig of shelter upon them. The forests have been mercilessly extirpated, and these people have left themselves denuded of wood, and with land worn out by their short-sighted policy of squeezing all they can out of it, and. giving nothing in return. This valley was once rich and productive. The good example of Major C , and the advantages of the railroad, may in time induce these inoffensive but ignorant people to cultivate instead of racking their land; at present, I should hardly have sup- posed they could draw from it even a scanty sub- sistence. These seigneuries are of great extent in square acres; but the ground having been let on from father to son, at a rent almost snominal (about twopence an acre), any arrangement that will change a system so antiquated as their manner of farming, must be a good one for both landlord and tenant, W harf, I had ve had y-built is wide curve ver a dings before small land, orests people 1 land ezing eturn. good es of nsive cking sup- ' sub- nt in t on bout ange ning, nant, . pee a oo A PRETTY EDIFICE. 123 cient ocactcintislimuis Slane sbnilaiiniiataneancl ce Some kind of adjustment like that which was re- commended in the speech of the Governor-General, will probably be made by the Legislature this session. Major C has built a pretty Elizabethan house, which it is to be hoped will serve as a model for an improved style of architecture in this land of ugly edifices; it is backed by the fine river Richelieu, and about three miles in front are the well wooded and picturesque mountains of Belleisle, which belong to his seigneurie ; they stand alone, in the flat district. There is the Mount of St. John, probably of vol- canic origin, but looking like a peaked barrow, about seven miles’ distance; but otherwise the country is level as far as Montreal: and from the summit of Major C ’*s hill the view is most extensive on every side, embracing four rivers and four lakes—the St. Lawrence, Ottawa, Riche- lieu, and Yamasee rivers; Lake Champlain, that of the Two Mountains, Lake Richelieu, and Lake Chambly. September 29.—Major and Mrs. C took me after breakfast to walk about the mountain, and to see the hotel he is building, in a very pretty situa- tion, upon the lower part of it. I found some in- toresting plants, and made sketches—one of a small lake in the bosom of the mountain, which is believed to fill up an extinct crater. Basaltic and other igneous rocks scattered about are evidences of the 124 ST. HILAIRE. recta nature of these hills; and one feels grateful to an outbreak which has so beautified the landscape. Ex- cellent apples grow in the numerous orchards at the base of Belleisle, and here the people make a good deal of cider, besides manufacturing maple sugar in quanti- ties during the month of April. I saw no flowers about the plank-houses, and their absence throws an air of desolation over the hamlets ; but it must be remem- bered that their inhabitants have a winter so long and tedious, that during a short summer the time of the men, and of the women also, is so occupied by necessary agricultural and domestic labours, that they have none to bestow upon floriculture. Driving home T saw many little wooden troughs under the trees in the forest; I thought at first that they were for pigs to feed from, but they are receptacles for the maple sugar. Young trees produce the whitest and purest syrup; and a frosty night, fol- lowed by a bright sunshiny day, is the only weather which induces a good flow of sap. I do not see why we could not make maple sugar in Eng- land, unless it is that the sun is not sufficiently powerful during our spring. I saw a large closet at St. Hilaire, filled with cakes of varying purity; they looked very like a coarse brown soap. In the house, Major C has his office for the seigneurie —resembling the magistrate’s room of an English country gentleman ; and Mrs. C has her room to an , Ex. at the d deal uanti- about air of mem- long me of od by that ‘iving r the they tacles - the fol- ather t see Eng- ently loset rity ; the urie vlish ‘oom SILVER HEIGUTS. 1258 Fn aes a er ee eee for the reception of the poor who are sick or sorry, where she affords them aid and advice. She is much beloved among them, but never gives money. This place will be very pretty when finished, and as complete and comfortable as the residence of an English Squire. It is brick, with stone ornaments ; and the interior is fitted up with carved oak, appropriate to the Gothic style of the building. After spending a pleasant day, I took the cars at three o’clock, and returned to my friend’s house at Montreal by eight in the evening. Sept. 30.—Silver Heights, Banks of the Ottawa. —TI left Montreal to embark in a steamer at La Chine, whither we went by the railroad—a beau- tiful drive. I was surprised to find the Ottawa another lake-like river, extending in both directions, and looking as if the banks of the St. Lawrence could never contain its waters, while there is much greater beauty and variety on its own shores. The first part of our voyage of thirty miles was a splendid one: we reached Carillon about three o’clock ; there I found a note from Mr. and Mrs. F : and Captain W. , with his two daughters, drove me to this place. It is now twenty-five years since he became a settler. At that time the un- dertaking of building and clearing must have been a fearful one ; but they have now a fine farm and an enjoyable home, to which steam and electricity al- 26 OTTAWA RIVER. ready add the comforts of society, and afford a rapid communication with the world 3 but when Captain and Mrs. W., asa young couple, sat down in the bush, what a store of patience and energy must have been required to endure and to conquer the difficulties of their situation! As we preceeded, there were some Indian villages at intervals on the river banks ; priests landed occasionally from our boat, and once I saw two comfortably clothed Squaws, with long cloaks and baskets of wood at their backs, get into a canoe at the edge of the water ; but wigwams and tomahawks seem almost out of date hereabouts, October 1.4—We left Silver Heights yesterday ; Captain W. kindly drove me. in his wagon to Grenville, that I might be spared ten miles of a rough coach; for the rapids here prevent any nayvi- gation of the river between Grenville and Carillon. As we were rather too soon for embarkation, I walked on the banks of the Ottawa, and picked up some curious-looking fossils out of the clay slate. It was about five o’clock when the boat reached Petite Nation. A finely-wooded shore extended all the way, but no striking features in the landscape. As we disembarked from the steamer, I saw a squaw, with her papoose wrapped in her blanket. She did not seem to comprehend a word of French or English, and soon paddled away in a canoe with her husband, who was dressed like the other peasants, and I should a rapid Captain e bush, e been lties of > some banks : 1 once 1 long into a is and 3. rday ; on to of a navi- illon. alked some ; was 'etite way, 3 we with not lish, and, uld LA PETITE NATION. 127 eee hardly have recognised him as an Indian. People speak of the ‘extermination’ of the savages; but I should rather say that the race is being amalgamated and absorbed in that of civilized men. It is said here that the priests rule the Roman Catholic Indians with a rod of iron; that they do not permit them to accumulate property, but that the Church keeps a hold over their means ; and that, in consequence of the despotic rule of ecclesiastics at Claire Point (an Indian settlement we passed yesterday), the people are fast emigrating to Bytown ; but still it appears to me that Roman Catholicism is best adapted for civilizing the Indians. The latter place derives its name from a Captain By, who was the Government Superintendent of the Rideau Canal, which extends from this part of the country to Kingston. The city is in future to be called Ottawa. M. Papineau received me very kindly Petite Nation. It isnot more than five or six years since he was his own architect, and built the pretty Stone house he now inhabits with his family, after he gave up political life. This has been a wet day ; but I am fortunate in being detained in a place where I can benefit by the conversation of an agreeable and well-informed host. Speaking about the proposed arrangement of the seigneuries, M., Papineau fears that the preponderance of Upper Canada in the Legislature may lead to an unjust solution of that question. It is proposed to make the seigneurs sell 128 MONTREAL. Sprepricieiniieliniimepiinineniatesllaiaciiwidi ses eR their reserved lands, he says. Where a man has purchased a seigneurie at a price which has never been remunerative, expecting one day to make a fair interest for his money, it would be injustice to en- force a sale, just as the approach of civilization is giving value t: the puxchase; but even if the Cana- dian represen, .. are regardless of the rights of individuals, I cannot believe that any English Governor-General, much less the present one, would give his sanction to any act of spoliation. October 2.—A very pleasing and intelligent young curé drank tea here last night. He told me that there is an Indian encampment squatted down on the other side the river, and I shall hope to go and see it. After breakfast, Monsieur Papineau took R and me across the river to visit the Indians and their wigwams, so it seems they are not quite extir- pated from this part of the country. These people belong to the tribe of Alloconquins, once so powerful along the shores of the Ottawa. They were desig- nated as the ‘ great nation, and were generally fierce and warlike ; but upon the ground now occupied by the seigneurie of M. Papineau, the French, upon their first visit, found a peaceable and gentle settle- ment of natives, whom they designated as ‘ La Petite Nation ;’ hence the present name of the place. With these inoffensive savages the strangers fraternized, 1an has 3 never 2 a fair to en- ition is Cana- thts of inglish would young e that wn on 70 and ) y is and extir- people werful desig- fierce ed by upon ettle- Petite With zed, THE MASSACRE. 129 gg aap ee aud in consequence, their fiercer brethren of the Indians raised the war-whoop, poured down in num- bers, and with fire and tomahawk destroyed the Petite Nation, and murdered nearly all their white guests. Upon this occurrence, the French Govern- ment gave up any attempt to settle on these shores, and refused permission to individuals to do so. It was not till after the English conquest of Canada that the Ottawa river became by degrees the resi- dence of Europeans. There were only a few wig- wams at the place where we landed 3 we spoke to an old woman and her two daughters, who were making boxes of birch bark 3 and to a young and rather pretty squaw, with her baby and her husband, who was busy prepa. ‘ng the skin of an elk for mo- cassins. ‘They all spoke French a little ; and being acquainted with M. Papineau, they did not shnn con- versation. The woman was the same who, when I spoke to her on the other side of the river, shook her head, and pretended not to understand me; and this, it seems, is a common habit if they are addressed by strangers. All the Indians I have yet seen are warmly and comfortably clad; a blanket or dark cloak being their outer covering, and they have good strong shoes, and stockings. M. Papineau says, the accusations I heard made against the priests at Point Claire are unjust ; that they only use their influence to prevent the savages from destroying themselves by ‘ Fire- VOL. I. K SRE |e 130 PETITE NATION. water ;’ and that the evil inclined complain bitterly of this check, and go off elsewhere to indulge those drink- ing propensities which will be the ultimate ruin of the race. After seeing the encampment, we landed on the small island of Vagit ; there I found interesting plants and river shells, and made a sketch of M. Papineau’s pretty Scotch-looking house, with its two towers and high roof. The wind freshened, so that we were soon obliged to hasten to the shore again, and returned in time for the two o’clock family dinner ; after which, Monsieur and Madame Papineau, with the lady’s sister and sister-in-law, took me to sce a very handsome and well-built family chapel, and mau- soleum, in the grounds. The style is solid simple Gothic, with a low belfry, like the Welsh churches, The interior has a beautiful roof, flying timbers; and one or two stained-glass windows, over the door and over the altar, give all the light that is admitted. Each side is filled up by large plain black slabs of marble, upon one of which will one day be inscribed the names of those who then stood around me. I liked this little burying-place better than anything of the kind I have before seen. : October 2.—A very wet day, the wind blowing and the rain raining. When it does rain on this side the Atlantic, the down-pour is more continued and violent than with us; but then there are very seldom three wet days in succession. itterly of ie drink. in of the nded on eresting n of M. its two so that e again, dinner ; vith the ) a very 1 mau- simple urches. $; and or and mitted. labs of scribed ne. [ ring of lowing n this tinued > very NATURAL HISTORY. 131 October 3.—After breakfast this morning, Ma- dame Papineau took me to walk in the forest, which, like that behind Mr. Loring’s house near Beverley, is interspersed with fine rocks of sienite. It is now rather too late for wild-flowers: in this part of the country; but I found some beautiful ferns, and the first snake I have seen in America glided away from our path; it was long and slender, black, marked with vivid green, and it was not disagreeably near to us, Pretty little ground squirrels ran about among the rocks ; they are less agile than ours, and want the bushy tail, but they are beautifully striped: I also saw a black- and-white species of woodpecker, and a partridge, though birds are generally scarce. The afternoon proved very wet, but M. Papineau kindly accom- panied me to the little wharf, to wait for the steamer to Ottawa city. Wesat for a considerable time in the parlour of the French Canadian auberge, as bad weather had made the vessel rather later than usual; and we were almost drenched, whilst only walking over the smal] wooden pier to the boat, where it was not without a feeling of regret that I took leave of my courteous host, who with his family had made me so kindly welcome to his forest-home. The evening soon closed in, and IT was vexed to pass up another fine river in the dark. Monsieur Papineau had speeded my K 2 132 OTTAWA. siehissnsamanceteninaecaiiniteeten areca ssigigs Si departure in the rain, and Mr. M—— came with his carriage to meet me under the same disagreeable circumstances. Wednesday, October 4.—The moon was hid by clouds, and rain poured down as fast when we left the boat as when we got into it, almost wet through by having waited five minutes on the shore ; but the sun shines out this bright frosty morn. Having heard much of the scenery round Ottawa, I was at first disappointed at the bare look of the place itself; for, excepting a small tract of forest left near this house, the axe and saw have cleared away every tree around it; and the buildings straggle on, nearly all the same in form, though of varying material and size; some were built of wood, some of brick, and some of a coarse kind of granite, speckled by garnets. When the interme- diate spaces shall be filled, (which is in a fair way of being accomplished, for buildings are rising up in all directions, and one very pretty Elizabethan house is erecting for a son-in-law of Mr. Mackay’s, which will set the example of a more picturesque style of architecture)—a large city will stand at the confluence of the rivers Ottawa, Gatineau, and Rideau. The present town will then change its former ugly name for that of the Ottawa, the largest of these three fine rivers; on the banks of which it has sprinkled itself to the extent of about three me with greeable hid by we left ost wet e shore ; 7 morn, Ottawa, : of the f forest cleared uildings ough of uilt of kind of nterme- air way sing up abethan uckay’s, uresque tand at uu, and ge its largest which t three FALLS OF THE OTTAWA. 133 [eect enemas miles, reaching to a handsome suspension bridge which crosses the torrent very near the spot where it tumbles down a ledge of rocks packed over One another in tabular masses. These falls are very grand, second only to Niagara. At one place the stream, after tumbling over, enters a large circular hole, and vanishes beneath in a whirlpool. Each side the river, slides of water have been formed, down which the rafts rush so furiously, that, though the men upon them look perfectly cool and unconcerned, I should not much like to be in their company. What a turmoil of waters there must be at other times, since now that they are considered very low, the rush I see is so magnificent! I suppose it is well to visit these falls before Niagara, but it is worth while to cross the Atlantic for these alone. About thirty years ago, the gentleman at whose house I am now staying, was at these rapids late in the evening, with a lady now of my acquaintance, and, upon her expressing a wish to stand on a tabular rock which divides one of the larger falls from the caldron below, he carried her across upon a drift-plank at the edge of the torrent. It was only by the same way that they could return ; and Mr. M——~ allows that at the moment he repented his daring, for one inch on either side would have been fatal to both. However, the lady preserved her composure, and he 134 OTTAWA. [oninsiriesinesenieesinnteteieiesinenatins his courage, and so they repassed in safety; but he afterwards confessed to his wife that he shuddered upon looking at the place by daylight—for it was by the light of the moon this feat was performed. Last year, a raft containing nine men was wrecked just above the Falls. Thousands of spectators crowded the banks, and by means of ropes, the poor fellows were rescued ; but one was dragged so far through the torrent, that he was brought sense- less to the shore. Friday, 6th.—This morning, one of the young Mr. M ’s drove me about eight miles up the shores of the Gatineau, (in some places over a corduroy road, in which the holes were deep enough to have smashed an English carriage,) to see some falls upon that river, which, if not finer than the Chaudiere or the Ottawa, are still more strikingly situated: a series of falls and rapids two miles in length, backed by hills of uutrodden forest, and as yet unencumbered by saw-mills and water- slides, can be seen from the ascent above. It is certainly the most beautiful view I have visited in this fine country. There is also a lake near ; but time was wanting to reach the spot; and I believe few people, except trappers and raftsmen, have as yet penetrated farther up this river. The post this day has brought us news of the successful landing of the army near Sebastopol. I may ty; but uddered ; was by ‘formed, wrecked ectators es, the gged so | sense- young up the over a enough e some an the ikingly - mniles forest, water- It is visited near ; and [ 1, have € post cessful may OFFICIOUS CARR. 135 possibly hear no more till we get to Niagara. Montreal papers describe Lord Elgin’s progress through Upper Canada, where he seems to have been extremely well received ; met by loyal addresses at every place, and answering them by impromptu political, social, and agricultural speeches, which read as well as if they had been carefully prepared. I have waited long here, vainly hoping to be over- taken by a missing trunk, in which are all my books, paper for plants, and other things of every- day requirement: it was left behind at Montreal, entirely owing to the intended care which every- body evinces for our interests, so that we find it the most difficult matter possible to take care of our- selves. Parcels are taken from our hands, boxes carried off or retained, baskets and tin cases put aside, and we never know whether the luggage is right or wrong, either in the United States or in Canada, because every gentleman takes it into his charge. American ladies are so accustomed to be watched and waited upon, that an independent Englishwoman is quite in despair at being treated as if she could not take care of her own concerns. I never mislaid and lost so many things in the travels of my whole life, as have been dropped or left behind since R and T landed on this side the Atlantic. We never know. when ou baggage is accompanying us, or when it is lagging behind; but usually ¢ »» thing turns OTTAWA. Cetiomuacs. up again in due time. We must leave this place at seven o’clock to-morrow, by the Rideau Canal for Prescott, or we may not be able to proceed before the middle of the week 3 and though I give up seeing Lake Huron, ten days will be required to go by Belville, Coburg, Toronto, and Hamilton, before we shall reach Niagara. The season is now getting late, and I much fear the great beauty of the foliage will have passed before I reach the Falls. Some trees have already lost their leaves—a change which has occurred rather earlier than usual, owing to the storms of the first few days of this month, Opposite the window at which I am writing, I now see crimson maples, orange birch, and scarlet oaks, interspersed with dark firs and bright green beech, and silver stems glistening here and there, making this corner of a primeval forest in itself a picture. Some of the charred black stumps, too, are always to be seen here and there standing up; at times they look like black points, or like gigantic figures among the trees. I sympathize now more than ever with poor Mrs. Moodie. ‘ Life in the bush? must indeed be a hard life for any civilized woman to go through. With all the aid that capital and strong arms can give, clearing is slow work, and one sees land that has been years in cultivation, still covered over at intervals by great black stumps, which look as if they might yet keep possession of the ground for is place 1 Canal proceed pl give uired to milton, is now auty of e Falls. change , owing month. I now t oaks, beech, naking icture. always s they mong ' with ndeed ough. 8 can | that er at as if 1 for A FIELD FOR ENTERPRISE. 137 the next twenty years. It is impossible to grub them up without such an outlay of time and trouble as is out of the question; and they have already been charred and girdled till their durability has been the more confirmed : so between rocks, and bogs, and timber, it takes a weary time before the poor settlers can grow more than a sprinkling of potatoes ; and I am now fully convinced of the wisdom of Colonel Tulloch’s plan, of giving only very small portions of land to pensioners, that an old soldier may be prevented from attempting a hopeless amount of exertion, which wastes his strength without repaying him in food. Still this country is a fine field for capital and talent. Young engineers make their fortunes rapidly. The overlooker of a mill receives one pound a day; a good foreman or clerk five or Six hungyed pounds per annum; and any tolerable workman may earn his dollar or two each day—more than some of our naval or military officers receive, With a small capital, and a good recommendation, any active young man must prosper in Canada; but industry and teniperance are just as necessary here as elsewhere ; and those who fancy they may make money without earning it are worse off in America than in England. Sunday Night, October 28—Ottawa.—] went to an Episcopal church here this morning; there was a large congregation. The service very respectably pamela eneeenrereeenpenseoneenrtapenemnttensspeenen tsecalasenttaanmecamenestenroeee - — = I 38 OTTAWA. PR otter te ee conducted ; a small barrel organ accompanied voices in good tune. Protestants and Roman Catholics are about equal in numbers here, and there are chapels of various denominations. One or two con- vents of Grey Nuns, and some Jesuits, have made this place their head-quarters, It is a healthy situation, and no cholera has made its appear- ance, though it has prevailed much at Montreal. Hull, on the other side the suspension bridge, was settled before Bytown; it will eventually be a mere suburb belonging to Ottawa city. The population here is a mixture of Scotch, Irish, French Cana- dians, and Upper Canadians, with a few Germans and Americans, Bytown is in Upper Canada—Hull, in Lower ; so the Ottawa divides the two provinces, I will leave this letter to go from hence, as we start by the early steamboat to-morrow for Prescotty and this is probably the best locality from which to ensure the transmission of a packet for England,—so I close in haste. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. Ortawa City, on THE Ortawa, Uppzr Canapa, October 8, 1854. 1 voices atholics re are vO con- 2 made healthy uppear- mtreal, e, was 2 mere uation Cana- as and ull, in es. I art by d this nsure -so [ LETTER X. LAKE ONTARIO. Cozpoure, Lace Onrarto, October 12, 1854. My pear Friznps,— I write now from another hospitable villa on the borders of this inland sea. I heard the sound of waves on the shore last night, as on a calm summer evening at Brighton. There has not been one minute in which I could put pen to paper since we left Bytown, now Ottawa city. During this journey I have come to the conclusion, that there is no dependence to be placed upon the hours or the distances named to a traveller in Canada or the United States; you may be informed as'to the usual hour for the departure of a steamer, and yet she sets forth half — an hour before, or she may arrive at a point whence to start again at five minutes’ warning, two hours after she was expected. When we embarked (with all Mr. M ’s experience) we reached the Rideau Canal ten minutes too late for the vessel, which went off sooner than was expected; but as there were four locks to be 140 RIDEAU CANAL. passed here (thirty-seven ultimately) we drove off to catch her at some convenient point, but at the distance of two miles she came up to us, having already been left behind. The only misfortune was, that as she could not come close to the shore, we had to reach her by means of a raft, which happened to be moored at the edge of the water; both R and I got soused over our ankles, We were all day in wet things, the stove not being powerful enough to dry us. However, the excitement and interest of travel- ling are so conducive to health, that we caught no cold, though, in addition to wet feet, we had a rainy afternoon, and the vessel was so small and close, that I preferred staying on deck under an umbrella to the shelter of a crowded cabin. It was consoling that the edges of the canal afforded some picturesque views. We passed one fall, and when we got into the wide calm stream of the river itself, its banks were interesting. Here I first saw true swamps— wastes of water, with occasional cedars, stumps, and reeds ; blasted or sickly-looking trees and shrubs ap. pearing at intervals above the surface. To my sur- prise, among the submerged vegetation I saw now and then log-cabins, with the heads of women and children peeping out of the doors or windows—not Indians, but Europeans. What beings can they be who choose to inhabit such places in a country where there is certainly no lack of dry locations! These e off to listance ly been as she ) reach noored I got in wet to dry travel. zht no rainy that I to the r that esque ; into lanks ps—- and 3 ap- sur- now and -not 7 be 1ere ese AUTUMN FOREST-TINTS. 141 ete spots looked like the personifications of ague and yellow fever; but sometimes the banks of the Rideau are embellished (like all American rivers at this season of the year) with thickets of scarlet and gold, each beautiful form and shape dressed in the most gorgeous colours possible to imagine. I suppose it is the hotter sun and sudden night frosts which tint the foliage with hues of a brilliancy unknown to us, though I suspect we have not exactly the same trees, with the exception of a few in our gardens, Tlie sugar maple, the soft maple, and the scarlet and white oak, are the chief pigments for colouring American forests. I should like, as an experiment, to plant enough of these together in England to see if they would dress themselves as becomingly on our side of the Atlantic: the Virginian creeper does so; and then we could shade them with copper beech, which would make the picture still more beautiful. The Prince Albert steamer is little worthy of its royal designation, for it is the smallest and dirtiest vessel I have seen in Canada, excepting, perhaps, that wretched ferry-boat at Point Levi ; but the rail- roads are superseding canals, and already there is not traffic enough to pay any company for good ac- commodation. I found on board an agreeable lady from Norfolk, who has settled with a brother in this country, near Ottawa. She regrets I did not visit the pretty place of her relative, about six miles ea LOB EN hae Mesa eet Ae Acero aT gS eT TT 142 RIDEAU CANAL. Saearemeoscumumeenmuem above the Falls at the suspension bridge. This lady had an excellent English maid , who was made so happy by meeting with mine, that as mistresses and maids suited equally well, we agreed to fall in with each other (if possible) again at Hamilton, in order to visit Niagara together. I disembarked at Brookville, with a host of German emigrants, all of whom being unable to speak either English or French, they were under the guidance of a conductor, who appeared careful of his charge. But there were not carts or car- riages enough to convey these poor people, with their great boxes and their bedding; and when we got to the railroad-station at Kemp Town, three miles’ dis. tance, the train was delayed more than two hours, until the emigrant party could be brought up ; so instead of our reaching Prescott early enough to cross over to the hotel at Ogdensburg, on the American side the St. Lawrence, before sunset, the ferry-poat did not put us and our baggage on shore till dark. Not a carriage or a cart was to be seen upon the landing. place, and we thought ourselves in a desperate fix, However, a good-natured woman, who had | also crossed over, and who was acquainted with the locality, set off with R——, while I stayed in charge of the baggage. They returned with an old Irish- man, driving his small cart. He was very civil, and succeeded in guiding our little party across a rotten plank bridge, and then took us safely through the boo WE co elie = Selene RE Sy Ne ear eo be / LORD ELGIN. 143 iinlneeiaanmemmammsecesrert dark and rather difficult streets to a comfortable hotel. Canada, and this bank of the St. Lawrence, will now advance rapidly under happier circumstances; but hitherto it has evidently been kept back and misgoverned, materially as well as morally; and in Consequence, everything on each side the water is twenty years behind other American shores—hotels, conveyances, cultivation, habits. During our deten- tion in the railway cars at Kemp Town, I listened with interest to a long political conversation among some Upper Canadian gentlemen. They spoke of Lord Elgin’s late visit to this part of the country, and they said that it was a well-merited triumphal progress, for, in their opinion, he had proved himself the most honest and able Governor that had ever ruled them ; and that his giving up the reins must be a matter of regret to all reasonable Canadians, But (they remarked) he has so ordered the Govern- ment that it must now be our own fault if svils are not rectified, and if our country is otherwise than prosperous ; for we have now a truly free and consti- tutional executive, whilst till within these last ten years our freedom has been a fiction. Only time and patience are now required, that we may learn how to use our power of self-government to the best ad- vantage. They spoke of the probability that the seat of government would eventually be fixed either at Ottawa or Toronto. 144 SEAT OF GOVERNMENT. best hills, Three water *h will every ay for _hun- h an ixteen 1ufac- of the I can e the offers n ten > per New pital ; and THE, FUTURE OF CANADA, 145 SPT reeserereereerseneenyeennesenieeeneenepieerennnneinsitiveucenes the St. Lawrence, becoming one day a power equal to the United States ; these two great nations, each encouraging a wholesome rivalry in the arts of peace and good government, content to be agreeable and hospitable neighbours, without envying or covet- ing each other’s possessions, but setting an example to Europe of Anglo-Saxon perseverance and industry. This may be no more than a pleasant dream ; it may be that nations will never be convinced that there is a more noble game than that of cutting throats and robbing fellow-creatures, Still, I have. better hopes from civilization and progress ; those who live twenty years longer will, perhaps, be convinced such hopes are not fallacious ; in the meanwhile there is no harm in hoping the best. I might have written this, in no very good humour with things as they are, for our journey to Cobourg was the least agreeable of any journey I have yet made, on this side the Atlantic. Being told we must be ready to meet the Lord Elgin steamer at Prescott, by seven o’clock, Wed- nesday morning, we crossed over exactly at that hour; but it was half-past nine before the boat arrived, so for more than two hours we had to stand waiting on the wharf 3 luckily the sun shone, and it was not very cold. When the steamer took us on board we passed successfully through the Thou- sand Islands, and beautiful they are: of every pos- VOL. I. L ne nani rng ee e ans 146 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. sible form, and in size from an acre to several mniles, they lie glowing and gleaming upon the blue waters, making the most singular labyrinth in the world. Of course we could not see the half of them. Arrived et Kingston, we changed our steamer for that called the Bay of Quinte. Upon one of the smallest islands a solitary man has resided in a tiny cabin for years ; he seldom looks at, or is seen by, the pass- ing vessels, He raises no flowers ; apparently he has not even a potato ground in cultivation. What can he do? {f saw nothing like a canoe ; and it does not seem that he even visits the opposite shores. A fine moonlit evening succeeded our brilliant morning: about eleven o’clock at night we hove-to to takein wood from an island of consider- able extent, belonging to Lord Mount-Cashel, which, I was informed, is in the market: it is extremely fertile, and has a village with a church belonging to it.* By midnight we reached Belville—another dreary Canadian town, where, if it had not been for the captain’s assistance, we should have again been without a vehicle ; he was so obliging as to get a small waggon of his own, with a quiet horse, which I was able to drive; and thus we reached a small hotel, from whence we were told a good coach would start at four o’clock in the morning for Cobourg ; * Here we had entered in the Bay of Quinte, so called from a.Frenchman who first navigated it, miles, waters, world. \rrived called nallest ' cabin e pass- he has What and it posite 1 our tht we sider- vhich, emely nging other on for been get a which small vould ure ; called PRIMITIVE LOCOMOTION, th, but no beds were to be had: we got a sitting with only a hard sofa, and a few harder cha I was not unwilling to start at the appointe Till near three the house was in an uproar noise made by smoking and drinking custo was six before the cvavh ( roughest covered waggon | to the door; and then, without any breakfast, except a cup of miserable tea and a few biscuits, procured at a stopping-place by the way, we were jumbled over very bad roads, forty-five instead of thirty-five miles, to Cobourg,* glad to turn out of our uncom- fortable vehicle about five o’clock. difficulty in procuring beds at the hotels, owing to an agricultural meeting that day, and a steeple- chase which was ridden yesterday ; but I had letters which procured us the hospitable found in this house 3 and a delightful expedition to the Rice Lake yesterday ; which was a compensation for the unpleasant journey from Belville, Mrs. H kindly took a drive of fo that charming lake village, which has only been settled about eight years. A half-pay colonel was the first who bought part of the Rice Lake shore, where we visited him. Another pleasing family soon became * About twenty miles on the Belville side of C first saw Lake Ontario, and almost coasted it to place, -room, irs, so d hour, with the mers ; it Which turned out the ever travelled in) came We found some reception I haye urteen miles, to show me obourg we the latter L 2 147 ee 148 RICE LAKE, selibetirtatepniiarsentiamuninantincicdanine se es Na) his neighbours, and now there is a thriving village, with its hotel and church, in the most beautiful situation possible. This lake may be about as large as, or larger than, Windermere. Indians still live upon its shores; one of their villages is nearly opposite, and a fine bridge for the Peterborough railway extends three miles over the middle of the lake. We crossed the Trent River, which flows from it, upon a bridge some miles farther, on the Bel- ville road; the country from thence is highly cul- tivated. We passed fields of turnips, and orchards loaded with apples, between Cobourg and Colburn ; but twenty miles from Belville the land looks poor and dreary, and very little cleared from stumps and fallen timber. Cobourg itself is a clean, regularly- built small town, with three pretty good hotels, and ‘many shops well supplied. A steam-boat will take us to Toronto at night; it is about sixty miles’ distance on Lake Ontario. October 14.—I slept on board the Maple-leaf last night, although we reached Toronto before eleven o'clock ; but there were comfortable ‘ state-rooms,’ and I had found so much inconvenience from landing at night in strange places, that I was glad to accede to the captain’s proposition for our sleeping in the vessel. He greatly relieved my mind by an assurance that the unhappy Arctic was not sunk by collision with the Cleopatra, which must have been hundreds of village, eautiful yout as ans still nearly orough of the 's from ie Bel- ly cul- rchards Iburn 3 ‘S poor ps and ularly- ls, and ll take miles’ le-leaf eleven ooms,’ nding accede in the irance n with ds of TORONTO, 149 eens, miles distant, but that it was a French propeller with which she came in contact, It does seem an extra- ordinary recklessness which causes these dreadful occurrences, when railroad whistles would guard against them, Why are they not attached to every vessel? They are universally used upon the American lakes, and the captains tell me they can be heard at ten miles’ distance ; yet we submit to the risk of our vessels running one another down, rather than make use of this reasonable precaution, just as we retain our separate railroad carriages, at the risk of being burned, or murdered, or doubled up, rather than travel in long cars, or have a line of communi- cation through the small ones. I heard the other day that one of the public carriages used on this side the Atlantic costs 750/., but as that holds from sixty to eighty passengers, I imagine it is less expen- sive than our compartments which hold six or eight ; and in the larger ones we have the advantage of ready communication, and I think more air with less dust. We left Cobourg about one o’clock, and it was a pleasant voyage along this sea-like lake to Toronto. This large town is so English in habits and ap- pearance, that I can hardly believe myself visiting the capital of Upper Canada. We are in a com. fortable hotel, kept by a Mrs. Ellah, who came from Plymouth, and was originally housekeeper to Lord Seaton. She is very happy to see English cus- 150 TORONTO. Seale eR OS ee tomers, and we feel at home in her house. It was. a wet morning when we landed; but in the afternoon I drove to see the cemetery, which in Canada, as in all the towns in America, appears to be placed on one of the most picturesque s.ots in the neighbour- hood. That at Toronto is called Bon-vale. A stream runs through the pretty dell which forms part of the enclcsure, and this, with the hills above, forms the burying-ground. It is about two miles from the town, and is also named St. James’s Cemetery. Here I found (in seed) a smaller Anemone than that which grew at the spot appropriated for the same purpose at Hull, overlooking the great Falls of the Ottawa—the only two localities in which I have found Anemonies. October 15.—Fine early, but like a cold March day in England. The north-westerly wind was high, having much the sharpness of our easterly breezes. This hotel is a large square red-brick building, in what is called Front-street, facing the bay. A railroad runs between it and the water, which here looks like a river not much wider than the St. Lawrence, the indentation from the lake is so deep. I see nothing like a mountain in the neighbourhood, or even at any distance from Toronto ; and the forests by which the town is backed are at too great a distance. The country for some miles round is flat, well cleared, and in good cultivation ; It was ernoon , as in ced on hbour- eh forms above, s from netery. in that . Same of the . have March 1 was sterly -brick ig the water, than . lake n the ‘onto ; are at miles tion ; TORONTO CATHEDRAL. I5I but, with the exception of the little dell I visited yesterday, there is no other attraction of scenery than the ocean-like waters of Ontario; but the streets are wide and well laid out. When polished a little, Toronto will be a noble city, though Ottawa may hereafter vie with it as one of the capitals of Canada. October 16.—The cathedral here is a pretty new church, in style, early perpendicular. It was built by a young architect from England, of the name of Cumberland, and is very creditable to his taste. The eastern termination is an apse rather than a chancel. I thought the windows particularly good, and they will be beautiful when a little painted glass is intro- duced, with a due regard to harmonious colouring ; this happily must be done in small compartments, as the glass is already thus arranged: it is almost entirely in patterns formed by triangles, with a small cross in the centre of each circular termina- tion ; but these triangular panes are so varied in size and shape (although there are few much larger than the old diamond pane) that a pretty light design is the result of these different combinations; the lead which divides and unites them is very small and light. A service was performed, half-an-hour longer and half-an-hour later than any at Quebec; so that I did not think it so well arranged here as there, where it was conducted with equal attention to the 152 LAKE ONTARIO. 4 pees ee ee ordinary routine, but without tedium. Yesterday was bitterly cold, so that I heaped on every wrap In my possession; and if this is only a foretaste of a Canadian winter, I feel happy at the idea of escaping from it; for, though every one tells me about the delights of sleighing in clear, bright, frosty weather, that does not sound tempting to me. This morning I saw the new University, and at the Parliament-house Professor Hincks showed me his commencement of a museum of natural history, already containing some very interesting ‘Specimens, October 17.—I left Toronto at two o’clock yes- terday by the Highlander. Having been assured that ‘we should reach Hamilton in daylight, I was weak enough to be again deluded by uncertain or false information; but the steamer stopped so often at various towns and settlements (among them Port Credit and a pretty little ‘place called Oakville), that it was quite dark before we arrived; and if it had not been for the kindness of my friend Miss C and her nephew, who came down to the wharf with their carriage to take charge of me, I should have put up with any accommodation on board, rather than have run the risk of another landing like those at Ogdensburg and Belville,—not only disagreeable, but, as it appears to me, really dangerous ; for on these wharves there is nothing to erday wrap etaste lea of Is me right, ig to , and owed tural sting yes- that weak false n at Port ille), id if Miss the e, I on ther “not ally r to DEMONSTRATION AT HAMILTON. 153 i en eg ‘protect strangers from walking over the edge into the water; and a few weeks ago, at Cobourg, a poor young woman, carrying her infant (although she had her husband with her) stepped off the side, and was drowned, with the child, before any assistance could ‘be afforded her. I was hospitably received at the house of Mr. B » and passed an agreeable evening. October 18.—When I came down to breakfast yesterday, I was told the reason of all the bell- ringing and firing I heard last night; having been 80 accustomed to noise, I went to sleep without any idea that news had arrived, after I went to bed, about a great victory over the Russians, and the taking of Sebastopol. This came by telegraph from New York ; and about midnight the Mayor and inhabit- ants assembled, amid cheers for the Queen and groans for the Czar, to fire a salute of twenty-one guns; and no place in England could evince more Joy and loyal feeling than the town of Hamilton, at the west end of Lake Ontario. I understand there were equal rejoicings at Toronto, where a large bon- fire was added, to mark the event ; but some touch of sorrow for the unhappy victims of the Russian Emperor’s ambition among his people, and anxiety about our own gallant friends, makes us rejoice with trembling. It is impossible not to dread the details, while we are thankful for the results. 154 HAMILTON. os Seem ee Yesterday, I was taken a beautiful drive of six- teen miles out to Ancaster, an older settlement than this. We first went up what is here called the mountain—a cliff-like hill, Supposed to have once been bounded by a vast sheet of water, which covered this whole country; so that the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, up to Quebec, was then also another limit. In our way back to Hamilton, we came by a fine Macadamized road, descending gradu- ally, in a manner which reminded me of Haldon-hill, in Devonshire; beautiful wooded park-like ground, gullies, and ravines, on our right hand, terminated by a high mountainous ridge, along the side of which the London railroad is carried, passing by the settle- ment of Dundas, which has already a population of about five thousand, which has located itself in a pretty valley between the hills. Passing along this district, I could imagine myself in a well-cultivaied picturesque part of England, if the superabund .nce of timber and the ‘snake fences’ (containing more wood upon fifty acres than we should use to fence five hundred in the old country) did not. speak plainly of American forests. Before the lapse of ten years, Hamilton, following the promise of most Canadian towns, will be a large city. It has already spread itself out some miles, and building is going on in every direction. This morning Miss C promises to take a drive of fifty miles with me, f six- t than d the once ered shore 1 also n, we radu- \-hill, ound, nated Thich attle- m of in a this ‘ated ance nore ence veak, ten nost ady ing me, MILTON. 155 “ieemameenes ee a ae to find out a family (settled at a place called Milton), about whom I am interested. October 19.—I succeeded in discovering the M. family, and we were fully repaid for a long drive, by the joyous gratitude with which our visit was received. We found Milton to be a thriving small town on the banks of part of the Sixteenth River (why this name, we could not make out). An annual show of cattle and agricultural produce made the place like a fair, and numbers of very respect- able-looking farmers were walking and driving about. We found two daughters of Mr. M 3 one of | them wife of the principal hotel keeper, the other married to a well-informed, gentlemanly young man, the doctor of the place, who has good connexions in England. We dined with them , and afterwards walked three miles with her father, to his own farm. We found Mrs. M knitting, seated by a glorious log fire, and everything around told of the comforts and contentment of a good English farm-house. These farms are divided into what are called lots ; each lot is one hundred acres. Mr. M pur- chased a lot and a half. These farms are much better cleared from trees and stumps than the land through which we passed from the Rideau canal to Belville; and this part of Canada is altogether much more advanced than the lower division, We got back to Hamilton by dark, without any 156 NIAGARA. difficulty. Next day, Mr. B drove me to the Suspension bridge, over the canal, near Dundum Castle, the residence of Sir A. M‘Nab; though a pretty situation, it is placed between the lake and a marsh, on which account it is considered very un- healthy. We visited the cemetery enclosing the ground where the British troops were entrenched before the battle of Stony Creek. By the cars which start at three o’clock, Miss C—— and Mr. S promise to go with me to Niagara. October 20.—Niagara.—We had a fine afternoon ‘for our journey to this beautiful place, and soon after leaving the railroad cars, I got my first view of the Falls. I had not a feeling of disappointment 5 they are quite as magnificent as any imagination need desire. I was told the Falls of Montmorenci had the advantage of some feet in height; but it would be as reasonable to compare the Thames with the St. Lawrence, as the Falls of Montmorenci with Niagara! I was up before six this morning, to see the sun rise ; it appeared above the horizon, between the village of Niagara and the American Fall, rather behind both: a fine red sun, promising good weather, I settled in my own mind, I would try to make a drawing to-morrow at this same hour, with the salmon-coloured sky in contrast with the white waters. This first day it was impossible to draw ; I could only look: for some hours we walked about ; FALLS OF NIAGARA. 157 Mins ne ee I wandered into the wood behind the Table Rock, or rather where the Table Rock once was; for it has now nearly fallen into the boiling waters beneath. There I gathered two of those beautiful flowers I first found at Point Levi—Lobelia Kalmii and Gentiana Saponaria; and down close to the brink of the river, above the Falls, Mr. § and I picked up three or four kinds of shells; one very small bivalve, differing from any I found in the Rideau. After dinner we took a carriage, and went over that marvellous suspension bridge, below the Falls, connecting the two shores, already open for traffic beneath, but not yet finished for the railroad cars to pass over above. I felt rather glad; it was awful enough now to pass, looking down hundreds of feet upon the racing torrent below. I do not think I could endure being in a carriage upon this bridge, with a railroad train rushing over my head, yet it is constituted for, and believed capable of, support- ing all together. The engineer isa German. This is only a little less wonderful than the Montreal tubular construction. Many people still doubt the success of both, and consider it beyond the power of humanity to pass, as proposed, over the chasm of Niagara, or to combat the waters and ice of the St. Lawrence : time will show. My courage was again tried in traversing the wooden bridges which are built over the rapids. between Niagara city and Goat Island. 158 NIAGARA. That place also, was quite different from what either my imagination, or drawings, had led me to suppose. [ expected to see an uninhabited, rocky, woody, small island, dividing the two grand Falls ; but it contains fifty acres, the greater part a grove of fine trees, and upon one side there are houses and gardens, with a productive orchard. Upon the other shore it appears as if island, and trees, and people, must all tumble down the Falls together ; indeed between rapids and torrents, it is a marvel that Goat Island exists, must spend a day in trying to draw here, though without a hope that paper and pencil can give any real idea of the truth. The news to-day is, that the accounts of the fall of Sebastopol are false, and that we have been rejoicing without reason, Terrible fighting is still going on, and already ninety British officers have fallen. Alas ! October 21.—I covered myself with wraps, and put a blanket round my feet, so as to be able to endure a sunrise from the verandah long enough to draw yesterday. It rose red and clear, and almost cloudless, and afforded the colouring I wished for. Mr. and Mrs. B obligingly called in their carriage, to show us the whirlpool, where the river suddenly turns below the Suspension bridge; we went also to the rapids beyond and above the Falls. Everything here is on a larger scale than I expected, though I ought by this time to be prepared | what ed me abited, grand part a re are chard. 1, and Falls tis a a day > that truth. all of icing 5 on, ilas ! and le to h to most for, their ‘iver we the nI red A PROFITABLE ESTATR. 159 {een for all. When I looked down upon the whirl- pool, and saw the carcase of a wretched horse (which had, we suppose, been accidentally hurried down the Falls) twirling round about, and up and down, in appearance like a small wooden Dutch toy, T was in some degree made sensible of height and distance ; a house too, on the rocky, wooded point Opposite, was no more than a speck, so that, by com- parison, I brought my ideas to something like fact. The English are accused of being a grasping nation in requiring fees for sights, but nothing I ever met with equals the charges for the contempla- tion of Nature here. The possessor of Goat’s Island makes one thousand pounds a year of those strangers or visitors who land onits shores; but this day we were actually charged one shilling each for only going into the wood, from whence a good view of the whirlpool can be obtained! As ground is becoming of great value in this neighbourhood, it may be necessary to require payment for keeping any part of it free from the desecration of taverns and saw-mills; but a more moderate fee would answer better to the proprietors, and not act as a prohibition to a large class who have not many spare shillings in their pockets ; penny postage proves that small charges answer better than large ones. This has been another beautiful day, and I trust we shall be favoured by such weather during our stay 160 NIAGARA. among this most magnificent, most lovely, and most viteresting of all scenery. Yesterday was pleasantly wea, and if the sun shines out for a day or two longer, we shall be as forianate in temperature as possible, for earlier in the year the heat and the mosquitoes are trying; now we have no reason to complain of either, and the great stream of visitors being over, we are here just at the right time for enjoyment, and I must remain some days, for there is no end to the beauties of Niagara—it ought to be visited for weeks instead of days; besides the great variety of views and objects on all sides—the ever changing appearance of the Falls, spray sometimes going up from the centre in columns and graceful curves, now half concealing, now lessening, now enlarging—rainbows starting across, and above and below—waters, snow-like, surge-like—aquamarine, emerald, sapphire, swelling, eddying, foaming! It is certainly worth crossing the Atlantic for Niagara alone. I have come to an end of my paper, and this shall go. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. PETAL 07 a eke ER, econ Ut | most santly r two ve as id the on to isitors ne for there to be great e ever otimes aceful now e and arine, It is lagara r, and M. 9%. >,.. = 3)" CPCI eG IG Hust eis ve 9% =,s “ ; ee LETTER XI. NIAGARA, Niagara, October 23, 1854. My pear Frienps,— Upon Goat Island yesterday, I parted with the two agreeable friends who have added to my en- joyment here by sharing it. I spent the whole after- noon that side the water, having passed to and fro by the ferry, and mounted by the rail and endless chain, at the very edge of the American Falls. Both these operations are awful, though perfectly safe; and it required some determination upon my part to be reconciled to profit by them, though they put one across the river in half the time required to go round | by the suspension bridge. I tried to give some idea of 1 the two cataracts on paper, which, at any rate, will be | recollections for myself. I suppose it is not possible to impress their grandeur upon the minds of others by any representations. For the first time, I felt i rather angry at the impertinent kind of curiosity | evinced by passers-by while I was drawing, because VOL. I. M if 162 NIAGARA. they did not seem to care the least about disturbing or annoying strangers busily engaged. A well-dressed woman said, in a rude way, ‘Pray what are you making there? You are a Canadian, I guess? I replied, ‘I am making nothing ; I am trying to draw.’ * Oh, you are—how do you do it?—-where do you come from?’ I felt provoked, and said, ‘I am sure you are an American.’ ‘ Well, how do you know that ?” ‘Because you ask so many questions; a Canadian would be more civil. This answer was effectual, and she turned away. Since my stay here, I have observed more! of unpleasant manners, as I have read of them in books, than fell in my way during my tour from Boston in August; and, certainly, among the secondary classes, I see little of the marked atten- tion supposed to be shown to ladies in the States. Last night, in the ladies’ saloon here, two gentlemen kept possession of the most comfortable arm.-chairs and I entered all the evening, and when Miss C the room, round which was a circle of strangers from various localities, not one among them rose to offer us seats, so we walked out again up and down a cor- ridor till some of these people absquatulated. This might be accidental, but I do not think it could have occurred in the old country. It seems to me that the Americans mistake rudeness for republicanism, and incivility for independence. Nationally, I mean, for of course there is polished society, as I have been oo _ ~~ urbing lressed ‘e you s? I draw.’ u come re you that ?’ nadian ectual, I have ye read ing my among | atten- States. tlemen -chairs ntered 's from 0 offer a cor- This d have ie that anism, mean, e been MANNERS OF THE SQUAWS. 163 perfectly ready to admit. Yesterday, a lady from one of the Southern States remarked, that we ‘ Eng- lish still owed America a grudge for what was past,’ I could not help assuring her she was mistaken, for that neither man, woman, nor child in the British Isles now troubled themselves about the war of American Independence, except to think their an. cestors unwise for having fought about it. The day before yesterday, I was busy making a little sketch from the verandah, when I felt a hand familiarly laid upon my shoulder. Of course I Supposed it was a lady with whom I had some acquaintance, but when a strange voice asked a question I turned round: it was with no small degree of astonishment that I found the liberty was taken by a perfect stranger, a young lady, apparently about twenty, who had been one of the last arrivals. She did not seem the least daunted by the expression of surprise which must have passed over my face, but went on questioning me with the coolest manner imaginable! The In- dians and their Squaws have the manners of gentle- men and ladies, and it does seem curious th individuals, among a people who are so an assume the names of gentility, should remain so wholly ignorant of the manners which are supposed to indi- cate a superior station and a refined education. I do not the least quarrel with the simplicity of the Bush, and the poor woman who took possession of the p M 2 at even. xious to attern 164 NIAGARA. of my gown, and the men who claimed a right to my sketch-book, were most welcome ; but the mixture of assumption of high breeding with inattention to the common rules of politeness, not even that natural feeling of i:egard which a common Anglo-Saxon blood originates, can make one excuse. Indeed I think our relationship makes it more galling, for a parent is always observant of the errors of her chil- dren, and it is perhaps in some degree the fault of the mother-country when her descendants are un- polished. She, may well be proud of the energy and perseverance of her large American family: it is to be hoped that some day their young people may add graces from the old country to the agility of the new, and that they will not be ashamed of cultivating the virtue of filial affection, which at present they seem to conclude would be a feeling derogatory to their rising dignity. At this juncture it is difficult to be- lieve that parts of the Democratic Union actually sympathize with Despotic Russia rather than with Free England! I do not believe this to be the case with the flower of the land, or with the really supe- rior and enlightened of her sons; but I fear many would sympathize in a wish I heard heartily ex- pressed by one of them, ‘That the old country might get well sold, and thoroughly whipped during the present war!’ No details have yet arrived of the Alma battle, excepting that there has been sad to my ture of to the vatural Saxon teed I , for a r chil- ault of re un- xy and tis to ay add: e new, ng the ’ seem > their to be- ctually n with ne case / supe- ‘ many ily ex- ountry during ived of en sad AN OLD IRISHWOMAN. 165 oy lakeimaeemccnccee loss of life. The first news was probably falsehood, spread by the Russians with the view of creating dis- satisfaction when the real facts became known ; but what must be the weakness of a despot who can resort to such expedients to bolster himself up—conduct more like the futile struggles of a maniac, than the efforts of a powerful Sovereign. Before going to Albany, I intend to visit the neighbourhood of Sand- wich, and of Detroit and Cleveland ; and to do this, we must again pass through Hamilton and return to Niagara; but, as I shall have no other Oppor- tunity, I must take advantage of this last week in October, go from hence to-morrow, and return for one night to this house in my way into the States. It is satisfactory that a good reason exists for seeing Niagara once again, October 24.— A beautiful day, with a bright young moon in the evening. I was out alone from morning till dusk. While sitting sketching on the hill, an old Irishwoman accosted me, but with a very different tone and manner from those people I met with yesterday. ‘Ah, ma’am,’ she said, ‘you are from the ould country; and sure you are making a plan of the glorious waters.’ ‘How do you know I am from the old country?’ ‘An’ sure then, an’ don’t I know English ladies at once ; they’re so busy, an’ they don’t dress as fine as our folks.’ I found she had been twenty-five years in Canada; that she = ESE 166 NIAGARA. has eight sons and daughters, a good husband, cows and horses, a thriving farm here, and one hundred acres of land at Toronto, and now, she said, she no longer fretted to go back once more to Ireland, be- cause ‘Isn’t the dear ould father dead at last; and he one hundred and eight years of age, and never had a doctor till the last hour, and was able to keep his church, two miles’ distance, till he was laid on his bed a-dying” She told me she had given her chil- dren a good education, and ‘that her daughters were not dressy, nor her sons drinkers.’ It is singular that these Irish people are so different in their habits away from their own land. There is an electric telegraph in communication with all the lines from this place in the house. Mr. Shears, the master, conducts it; he sent a message to Sandwich for me last night, and one for a military officer to Quebec ; and we had both replies in half an hour. This hotel belongs to a company : it is by far the most pleasantly situated at Niagara; those on the other side of the water have no views of the cataract. The vibration caused throughout this building by the falling waters makes every door and window shake; but it is not enough to disturb the rest of a traveller, and one soon gets accustomed to it. Besides the main hotel, there are several small separate houses behind, which can be taken for the summer or for short periods, by » COWS indred he no id, be- ;; and er had ep his on his r chil. S were ar that habits lectric 3 from laster, or me 1ebec ; ; hotel santly of the ration waters is not 1 one hotel, which 1s, by LAKES ERIE AND ST. CLAIR.

were there is no place in the world from which you can othing f see five miles in every direction, except from the top ivil as of the highest mountains, but this place belies that vended assertion : it is a perfect panorama, and as there are m the no hills in this part of the country, one sees in 2very tes tn direction from ten to twenty, and possibly thirty, m the miles. On one side Lake St. Clair, with the beautiful spared : River Detroit connecting it and Lake Erie (about rough twenty miles distant). The town runs along the banks fas— of the river, Windsor and Sandwich, both in Canada, e been . on the other shore. Numbers of vessels are passing la. I and repassing, and there is an uninterrupted water ’ forty communication through all these fine lakes and have rivers, two thousand miles, to the Gulf of St. Law- : open rence. What an empire this will be when all its bea resources are developed! And they are developing rches, with great rapidity; for of all the towns I saw in me of passing from Niagara yesterday, not one was in ex- 1 con : istence twenty years ago. naller October 27.— Yesterday afternoon Mrs. P a one & came to call, and kindly brought me at once to this Poet. : )«ace, Park Farm, in Sandwich. We crossed the adies? | viver without moving from the carriage, and arrived 170 NIAGARA. sonrersten centri nenerteiestenbiidtas inlets antics at the house in time to take a walk. Colonel P—— has not gone upon the usual plan in this part of the world—that of rooting up the forest, without any idea of leaving ornamental timber ; and his place is beautified by woods, at proper intervals, while the cultivation of the land between them is that of an English farm. The Colonel tells me there is fine shooting all about here—deer, within ten miles. Yesterday, he and his son brought in as many snipes, woodcocks, and a small kind of quail, as they chose to shoot. October 28.—-A dreadful accident occurred very early yesterday morning, near Chatham, about fifteen miles from Detroit; upon the same railroad by which we came from Niagara. Some trucks, filled with gravel, were proceeding at the rate of sixteen miles an hour, actually in front of the express train, going at the rate of forty. Of course there was a collision: three or four of the first cars were smashed ; and it is believed that sixty or seventy persons are killed; exact particulars have not yet reached us; but this seems one of the most fatal of all the railroad catastrophes, and caused entirely by carelessness. There was a dense fog at the time it occurred, but surely the gravel-trucks had no business in the way of the coming train. I am surprised at the large number of blacks end colourcd people hereabouts ; nearly all the lowest population Pals art of ut any place while s that 1ere 1s miles, snipes, chose A PENITENT RUNAWAY. 171 ——rneteeeeeeeenatteen enero cc, appears to consist of them ; they are idle, and very insolent in manner. I met with an English clergy- man on board the Lake Ontario steamer, who was on his way to this country, with the intention of making an effort to civilize and educate the negroes who have settled here. He told me there are at least twenty thousand, chiefly runaway slaves, in Upper Canada. One of the evils consequent upon Southern slavery, is the ignorant and miserable set of coloured people who throw themselves into Canada. Colonel P told me yesterday he was brought out home from Windsor, by a black driver, who told him he had ‘run away from his good, kind massa,’ years ago; and that though he was free and able to get his own livelihood, he had never ceased to repent his folly. The black should be educated for freedom, or he is not the happier. If mere children, sent into the world unfit to guide themselves, negroes suffer more by freedom than by servitude; and I must regret that the well- meant enthusiasm of the Abolitionists has been without judgment. Dr. Howe, Mr. Dillon, and others devoted to the real welfare of the black race, all are of opinion that in their case, as in many others, ill-judging friends have proved worse than enemies ; and, without having been among the planters, my observation in the States, of the ma- jority of free blacks, already leads me to the same 172 SANDWICH. ii iti conclusion. It is not a question between the wicked- ness of a system of human bondage and the duty of shaking it off, but one as to the wisdom of getting rid of an evil, without making use of common sense in the manner of curing it. Colonel and Mrs. P took me a drive yesterday afternoon along the shore of the Detroit (which is rather a strait, twenty miles long, connecting the Lakes St. Clair and Erie, than a river). It looks, in some places, from five to seven miles wide; and there is a0 more stream than that movement which is occasioned by a slight difference of level between the two waters. Some fishermen were fishing for white fish, and a kind of fresh-water herring. The nets were taken out in boats, as in England ; but, when the ends were to be drawn in, the rope was fastened toa windlass, and a horse trotting round and round, soon brought the net on shore—a saving of both time and labour. I saw a curious kind of fish-lizard brought out; it was about two feet in length from the end of the tail to its round cat-like snout ; it crawled along the ground on its short legs and tortoise-like feet, and was altogether a disgusting-looking beast. The fisher- men said its bite was very poisonous, and it had the yellowish-brown lurid look which seems to apper- tain to venomous reptiles; but Dr Kirtland says it is perfectly harmless. We induced them to throw it back into the water, where it probably SCARCITY OF SERVANTS, 173 {oer iptenninpenilaihRiicshcana siinn hapiae idaici. exercises some virtues not to be guessed when it is seen out of its natural element. I found many little fresh-water shells on the shore, and one mussel, with a wing appendage almost like that of arostellaria, A sunset more lovely than any I have before seen ; it promised fine weather—a happy pro- mise for me, as I find myself again obliged to take part of my voyage to Cleveland by night. No steamer leaves Detroit earlier than four o’clock to-day ; but I shall have daylight for the river, so I must be reconciled to being in darkness on Lake Erie, with the consolation of a moon, now some days old. Such quantities of apples here, rotting on the ground for want of hands to gather them. The negroes will not take that trouble, even for pay; and, in spite of the great emigration, labour is much wanted : people are in distress for both out-of-door and in-door servants. I walked with Mrs. P—— down to the river; many black and mulatto children were play- ing about near some small log-houses, close to a marsh, on its shore; one clean-looking intelligent girl, about seven, helped to look for shells, and then asked me to visit her mother, who, she said, was sick in a hut, close by. I followed the child, and found her mother in bed, quite alone, with the excep- tion of a tiny black babe, only two hours old, by her side. She received me cordially; conversed in a cheerful, intelligent manner, and said she was 174 SANDWICH. brought by a lady from Maryland to this place, twenty years ago, when only seventeen years of age ; this kind mistress gave her freedom, and she married a husband of her own colour, who works in the boats. I said, ‘Are you glad to be free ?}— ‘Oh, am I not? it is only the ignorant and the lazy ones who do not care to be free; but then they be most so.’ She has three girls alive, besides her baby-boy, whose arrival makes her very happy, because she has lost three boys. Everything around this woman spoke of tidy and cleanly habits ; a little Bible well bound was on the table close to her bed, and other comforts evinced education and order beyond the usual negro habits. I afterwards visited the hut of an old negro washerwoman, who lived alone, and seemed a kind, industrious old soul. In the other houses of the black people, I was told I should find nothing but dressy, saucy, idle folk. We were in Detroit to meet the steamer at four o’clock ; then it was disco- vered she would not start till night, and after spending many tiresome hours, waiting and expecting, the Ocean did not get under way till near midnight ; and when on board I found out I might have set off by nine o’clock this beautiful morning, if I had gone by a boat to Sandusky, whence a railroad would have carried me to Cleveland before dusk, and I should have steamed up the Detroit River, with a bright sun rhe | oh cork. nn. ie. wl Th ae eae bu ee place, rs of 1 she ks in ) Panes | the they sides appy, ‘ound little » her and 1egTo kind, f the r but it to lisco- after ting, ight ; t off gone have ould , Sun CLEVELAND. 175 fel CAGE Ee over my head, instead of traversing it when even the early moonlight was over. En revanche, I had a fine sunrise on Lake Erie. I have now passed one night on the St. Lawrence, one on Lake Ontario, and the last on Lake Erie, besides two or three landings in the dark ; and this obscure mode of travelling is so usual on this side the Atlantic, that it requires some perseverance and energy, really to acquire knowledge about localities in America. To. morrow I shall set forth by rail to Buffalo—in day- light, I hope ; so that only the last part of my journey will be in the dark, and I shall reach Niagara by moonlight. These late slaughtering railroad accidents are enough, I should think, to counteract the American and Canadian predilection for night travelling. But it does appear as if these active people would rather sacrifice their lives than lose an hour of their time while they do live. ‘ Dollars and time, time and dollars,’ should be the motto on this side the Atlantic. Cleveland is another pretty place, with streets as wide as those of Detroit, and a growing population of forty thousand. New churches here also starting up in every direction. Religion has certainly her due place in the hearts of the inhabitants, though the worship of Mammon may here, as elsewhere, compete with a better faith. October 30.—Here I am still at Cleveland, in spite of my resolution to return to Niagara this evening ; y IMAGE EVALUATION | TEST TARGET (MT-3) 16 14 1.25 graphic Photo 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14586 Cri (716) 872-4503 ciences Corporation CLEVELAND. but it was quite impossible to resist the temptations offered by the kindness of Dr, and Mrs, Kirtland, and we slept last night at their house, five miles from hence. His garden was the first I have ever seen since that at Cambridge, which offered many objects of interest. Besides other plants new to me, I gathered berries of a singular colour, greenish blue, ‘rom an Ampelopsis, with briony-like leaves. Dr. Kirtland has paid great attention to the improvement of fruits, particularly cherries, and he is a most scientific naturalist ; his birds, stuffed and arranged by himself, éxcel those of Waterton; and the manner in which his entomological specimens are pre- served is quite unique and admirable: they are in frames, with glass behind and before, so that they can be observed on all sides, and when heid up to the light, while, being rendered impervious to air and unassailable to insects, they are indestructible. I am promised a specimen case, which will be an invalu- able example to collectors and museums in Europe. Dr. Kirtland was also so obliging as to give me numerous shells from the fresh waters of this district, which differ from those I found on the Ottawa and on the shore of Lake Champlain; and this morning he took me a walk through the forest, where I found a great deal of the pretty Cornus florida, and seeds of a Geradia, differing from that growing near Lake Winnipesiogee. The oak most uptations Kirtland, iles from ver seen y objects o me, I ish blue, es. Dr. rovement a most arranged and the sare pre- y are in they can p to the air and le. Iam n invalu- Europe. give me of this 1 on the in; and he forest, y Cornus rom that yak most BATTLE OF THE ALMA. 179 saebenenaneeiricsiseibiininwinibiniosenineinnmiannetbencesnasoluuscsicusiia gis common here, is called the grey oak; there is another with chesnut-shaped leaves and a long acorn, and one with deeply cut, small shining leaves. The Sassafras and three or four species of poplar also grow in this forest, but no evergreens; and none are to be seen between a place called Paynesville and Detroit, unless in gardens; no firs, no cedars, no Lignum vite (which grows so beautifully on the banks of the Ottawa and the Gatineau, and again at Niagara) ; but the variety of trees and shrubs is greater here than in the neighbourhood of Sandwich, where the forests are principally beech, and the white and scarlet oak, with tamarisks in the swamps, The orchards at this place are very productive: peaches, cherries, and excellent apples. Among the last, the true golden pippin and nonpareil. Dr, Kirtland is famed for his cultivation of fruit. This evening I have been much interested, having for the first time read the details of the sad though suc- cessful Battle of Alma; but our heroes have not died in vain—they died as missionaries of truth and civi- lization. Those English and French soldiers who have fallen side by side at the Battle of Alma, have sealed with their blood a lasting alliance between their respective nations; and thousands of serfs will go to school in England, and there learn that they are men. I came back to sleep at the Weddell Hotel, VOL. I. N (SVR ISD aaoaraen arene DaaaRt, 2 ERRNO ERIETE Rete nt eee eB | 178 NIAGARA. where the accommodation is excellent, and we hope to ascertain exactly the hour when a railroad train starts for Niagara, vid Buffalo, to-morrow morning, One comfort is, the time of the cars cannot be so difficult to discover as that of the steamer Ocean, at Detroit, where we walked up and down the wharves for more than two hours, without being able to find out from any man, woman, or child, where the great steamer had hid herself! People in these rising cities are all too busy to know anything that does not concern their immediate objects. November 1..—Niagara.—To-day we go to Canan- daigua, having safely returned last night to this place. November 2.— Owing to the impossibility of getting correct information, I was sent across coun- try, and we were all day on the American shore of the Falls. At half-past seven in the evening the cars did start, but before eight we were brought to a standstill ; for the engine and th- +wo first carriages ran off the line, owing to some miscreant having removed a rail. No person was injured, but for six mortal hours we were kept waiting until trains came up each way, so as to allow of an exchange of passen- gers and luggage; and it was seven in the morning before the cars which received us at the place of stopping reached Canandaigua. The lake there is we hope ad train norning, t be so \cean, at wharves 2 to find he great = rising iat does » Canan- to this ility of 88 coun- shore of ing the ught to arriages having t for six ns came ' passen- morning place of there is CAYUGA LAKE. 179 Gece ee not so picturesque as most of those I have seen ; but there is a nice small town, and the house from which I write is the most comfortable and best appointed of any I have yet seen in the United States. Ithaca will be our next halting-place; it is upon the Cayuga Lake. November 5,— Cayuga Lake, Ithaca.—In our way to this place, yesterday, we came by rail to: Cayuga Bridge, and there awaited the steamboat Forest City, to carry us forty miles down the lake to Ithaca. During the three hours of our detention, I took a walk, made a sketch of the place from 4 spot about a mile and a half off, and found a plane tree, which appears to me to differ from both the oriental and occidental, though rather more like the latter. It is here called button tree, from its hanging, round seed-vessels. I gathered some of the latter nearly ripe, and also a leaf. Upon the weeping elms it is interest- ing to see the little nest of the hanging Loriole, which thus builds out of the reach of danger from terres- trial enemies—boy, beast, or reptile. Whether they have winged assailants, I do not know. A wind from the north yesterday was very cold, and on board the steamboat I was obliged to confine myself to the cabin; the shores of these lakes are pretty, and we touched at a village called Aurora, a very rural-looking spot. I saw many nice-looking houses, N 2 180 ' ITHACA, with a better show of flowers and of well-kept gardens than is common in America; and as we ad- vanced towards Ithaca, rocks and picturesque gullies became frequent ; the country hilly and broken. A railroad, carried to the end of the long pier, re- ceived us on our landing, and took the passengers to Ithaca, a mile beyond, where I found Mr. G had obligingly brought his carriage to take me to his home. Sunday: a bright sun-shiny morning like a fine November day in England. The leaves here have nearly all fallen, and it is time to give up touring in the Northern States; but, as I understand the election for the Governorship of New York takes place on Tuesday, and that on that day Governor Seymour will either be re- elected or supplanted, I shall remain here to- morrow, and sleep at Syracuse on Tuesday, so as not to pay my visit at Albany until the election day is over. Ithaca, November 6.—Snow and ice; bitter cold north-east wind, so that, though Mrs. G: kindly drove me out to make a sketch of the place, we were both too cold to fulfil our intentions of visiting some of the waterfalls in the neighbourhood. I could only view one of the most considerable from a distance. It has a height of between two and three hundred feet, and must be fine when water is vell-kept 8 we ad- e gullies ken. A pier, re- ssengers md Mr. to take un-shiny England. t is time but, as I rship of that on be re- here to- y, 80 as election tter cold — kindly e place, ations of ourhood. ble from two and water is ‘FOREST CITY.’ 181 cies Wienitnectegsarrcear eT ete ce abundant. From the great depth of these falls, the stream now looks only like white gauze spread over the rocks, and it disappears in foam. A gentleman told me that the derivation of the word Ravine is Ravel, from the waters being ravelled out as they tumble down. Syracuse, November 7.—We came fifty miles round yesterday, through the Valley of the Susque- hanna, to avoid retracing our way by Lake Cayuga. A new railroad was opened only last month, from a place called Binghampton (about thirty miles from Ithaca) to Syracuse. Oswego was our first stopping- place; the inconvenience of choosing an indirect route being, that we have to change cars twice. Two gentlemen, to whom I was introduced before leaving Ithaca, Mr. Cox and Mr. Parker, reside at Oswego. A fine example of engineering is displayed in getting the cars up the steep hills, by forward and retrogres- sive movements, with a switch at one point ; so that the pretty ‘Forest City,’ Ithaca, is seen at various dis- tances several times during the first five miles of the ascent ; but no chains are used. The country has a ‘wintry appearance—snow upon the hills, and even a little by the wayside. We passed through part of the picturesque Valley of the Susquehanna, following that river close upon its banks some way. There I saw timber-trees of the hemlock spruce ; and at a 182 HOMER. large town, called Homer, five churches, each of considerable size, all in a row, without any inter- vening houses. No time or room for more. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. LETTER XII. ALBANY. Atsany, New York, Nov. 8. My pear Frienps— A snowy morning at Syracuse made it im- possible to see anything of that town, or its salt- works ; the valuable briny springs there so cheapen one great necessary of life, that I am told, twenty miles off, a large barrel of salt may be purchased for a dollar. The ladies’ saloon at the hotel where I slept, exhibited that usual absence of occupation which I have remarked at all such places—rocking-chairs, lounges, and ennui! One young lady took some- thing like a small tract in her hand, and in a few minutes was asleep on a sofa—this at half-past ten in the morning. When a gentleman came in, and asked for her—‘ Oh!’ said another lady, her compa- nion, ‘she’s asleep; but she’ll wake up by dinner- time.’ And this information was not given the least in a satirical tone. We left Syracuse by the eleven o’clock train, during a thick snow-storm ; but at noon 184 ALBANY. sunshine broke out. We passed through a fine country by Rome, Utica, and Schenectady, skirting the river at the latter place. At Little Falls such abundance of rocks! I longed to stop for a botanical scramble among them. Perhaps next June, when the weather is more favourable for a visit to Utica and Trenton, I may be again at this place. By five o’clock our train reached Albany,—a pleasant, rapid journey of ninety miles, during which the cars slided safely and pleasantly along. No troublesome companions —but some pretty young ladies behind me ap- peared to think' themselves privileged to laugh and talk louder than any one else, because they were better dressed; and a gentleman in front evidently considered it the bounden duty of an American citizen to be bearish. In the hope of softening his temper, I offered him the morning paper; he took it without the smallest acknowledgment, and, when done with, put it down without even returning it. ‘Whether he discovered we were ‘British, and an anti-English feeling possessed him, I don’t know; but still there was a spice of kindness lying under his sulky manner, for when a poor old woman and girl entered the car, he removed his valise, and gave them his seat. While stopping at one of the stations, a tall, handsome Indian girl, with some bead-work in her hand, entered the car; she wore a picturesque dress, : country the river undance scramble weather Trenton, lock our urney of d safely npanions me ap- ugh and ley were vidently merican ning his he took d, when ming it, and an ; know; nder his ind girl ve them a. tall, in her e dress, GOVERNOR SEYMOUR. 185 with a black hat and feather, and silently presenting her wares without importunity, she glided on. The noisy and reckless, or ungainly, sulky manner of those around contrasted unfavourably with the subdued, unobtrusive, graceful dignity of the squaw. Nature’s gentlemen and gentlewomen, the Indians have a true courtesy and a simple politeness, which might be advantageously copied by those who are their superiors in knowledge and power, The Governor of New York, to whom I was intro- duced at Newport, met us at Albany station, and I am now at his house. In the midst of a severe contest with two opponents (an election, for which the votes amount to 500,000), he preserves a manner of calm indifference which his friends do not emulate. I confess myself deeply interested in the result—not so much for Mr. Seymour’s sake (because with his love of country pursuits, and his freedom from weak ambi- tion, I really believe his personal happiness will rather be increased than diminished by a return to private life); but because I believe the welfare of this large population to be well-cared for while the power is in his hands. In England we have but little idea of the influence exercised by the local Governors in the Union. Governor Seymour has the unlimited power of pardoning criminals, and is also Commander. in-Chief of the Army and Navy of this ‘Empire State. He holds his office for two years only, un- 186 ALBANY. less re-elected at the end of that time. In some of the States, the Governor’s tenure is four years; and Wright, of Indiana, has now been its head nearly eight years. They are, to all intents and purposes, constitutional sovereigns for the time being ; and seeing a man of Horatio Seymour’s benevo- lence, judgment, and ability placed in this situa- tion, I shall regret if popular caprice replaces him by an inferior statesman. One of the candidates is a ‘ Know-nothing,’ and he has only party support. I have no acquaintance with Mr. Clark, the man who runs Seymour hard; if he succeeds, his suc- cess will be owing to an amiable, though I sus- pect a mistaken public feeling—about the intro- duction of the Maine prohibitory liquor law. Go- vernor Seymour has fearlessly and honestly with- held his assent to the introduction of that law into this State. Upon all other points, he is popular; but an extreme and (with some) a religious feeling, moves the popular opinion, and Clark is a ‘no liquor man.’ None can have a more sincere horror of intemperance than myself; but there is a use as well as an abuse of all things; and I doubt the wisdom of guiding a people to the wise use of a use- ful article, by prohibiting it altogether. Albany, Nov. 10.—I went to a wedding last night ; very differently arranged from an English marriage, but interesting. A pleasing, well-attired young some of years ; 's head its and » being ; benevo- s situa- ces him ididates support. he man his suc- I sus- > intro- r. Go- y with- aw into opular ; feeling, a ‘no : horror | use as ibt the f a use- " night : arriage, young tance one way, and a range in the northern part of A TRANSATLANTIC WEDDING, 187 a neneeensenteeenentintnnnannntannnasaenriee ce, bride of twenty—the bridegroom twenty-six. They stood side by side, at one end of a well-filled room, while a Presbyterian minister addressed a suitable but short exhortation to them. He then gave the ring to be placed upon the bride’s finger, telling her to wear it as a pledge of her husband’s affection, and as a reminder of her own duties ; and after his blessing upon them both, the ceremony was concluded. It took place at eight o’clock, in the presence of from two to three hundred friends. The young wife remained awhile in her place to receive the kisses of her relations, and the congratulations of all. I was introduced; and she thanked me prettily for my presence, and offered her cheek. Her dress was just like our English bride’s, excepting that the white robe had a train. She looked calmly happy. The even- ing was closed by a plentiful standing supper—hot oyster soup, &c. In the morning I went to see hot- houses and greenhouses belonging to a relation of Mrs. Seymour, managed by a gardener who was under Sir Joseph Paxton. Mr. Morrison does credit to his teacher: he has the best managed collection of plants I have seen this side of the Atlantic, and a Lycopodium quite new to me. The view from an elevation in Mr. Corning’s garden is very extensive, overlooking Albany and Troy, with fine reaches of the Hudson; the Catskill mountains in the dis- 188 “ALBANY. the State in the other. It is difficult to realize that in coming from Niagara here, I have traversed as much country as if I had journeyed from John O’Groat’s House to London! I begin to think nothing of a distance of two hundred miles. This evening we spent some time in a Museum of Natural History, which is doubly interesting, from being entirely confined to the productions of this State; so that, my mind not being overwhelmed with variety, I was able to see, and to understand what I did see, to much greater advantage. ‘ae geology of New York is an epitome of that of the world, though it contains some details as well as numerous objects not known in Europe. Our chalk and oolite beds are wanting; but at some hundreds of miles distance greersand is to be seen, rich in fossils, scaphites, &c., three times the size of ours. In Minnesota, about seventeen hundred miles from hence (south-west of Lake Superior), exists a tract one hundred miles in extent, called by the Indians, Mauvaise Terre— The bad country,’—and well does it merit that appellation. it consists of clay mountains, placed side by side like huge ant-hills, wholly hare of vegetation—not from infertility, but because their component parts are so little coherent, that rain and torrents wash them clean of verdure, whenever it makes its appearance during a spell of dry weather. Finc specimens of animal reinains-——tortoises, tur- tles, &c., are found at the base of these clay hills, ze that in as much O’Groat’s hing of a ; we spent ry, which onfined to mind not le to see, h greater 1 epitome ue details . Europe. t at some seen, rich 2 of ours. iles from sa tract : Indians, ell does it ountains, ly hare of use their rain and enever it weather. ises, tur- lay hills, Tl. Y MUSEIM. 189 henner ieieep intense bc The curator of the Museum, Mr. Hubbard, has given mé a very curious recent fish from Lake Champlain, deeply interesting as the only lingering denizen of those early periods of the world when fishes wore their bones externally instead of internally. This creature looks like an antediluvian, with his ena- melled exterior and his bony tail. I think he must have been a hard morsel, even for the digestion of an ichthyosaurus. He is called here the gar alligator. Mr. Hurst, one of the naturalists belonging to this Museum, has invented a beautiful manner of pre- serving fish, reptiles, &c., so as to make spirits unne- ceszary, and greatly to facilitate the examination of them. But so much arsenic is requisite for the process, that his hands are excoriated, while his com- plexion is improved by its poisonous fumes. The Governor has kindly given me a trout, which is an admirable specimen of this ingenious mode of pre- paration. Nov. 11.—For once, I enjoy a pouring wet day, as it gives me time to arrange a chaos of seeds, plants, shells, and stones, which I have collected during my rapid western tour, and to look over the fine Hortus Siccus, arranged by Dr. Torrey, in fifty volumes, for the Museum. As it is of course confined to the flora of New York, I have many specimens not included ; but it enables me to deter- mine some which have embarrassed me, I saw an 190 ALBANY. alligator alive, and some curious little turtles and tortoises: the latter are common hereabouts, and I am promised a pet, in the shape of a small tor- toise which has the faculty of shutting itself up like a box : it is a vegetarian, quite gentle, hardy, and long lived. If my favourite puss does not take umbrage at him, he will be a clean, innocent, happy favourite. The snapping tortoise is larger, and quite a savage beast. There was a live snake in a box, but I declined his acquaintance. I was surprised to see the wild turkey so much, larger than the domesticated ; his plumage, too, is finer—almost resembling that of a peacock. I begin to feel quite excited by the ups and downs of the State election; for though all the votes were taken in one day (the 7th), the various towns and districts send their numbers dribbling in, so that though Governor Seymour has never been without a general majority, yet the whole is extremely fluc- tuating; and as yet his fate remains undecided. I had a long talk with him about the Slavery question, and was much impressed by his calm and statesmanlike views: he is as desirous as any man can be, to see slavery abolished ; but he sensibly says, that, like most other things in connexion with the general welfare, it is to be considered with reference to political economy ; and that in our cithusiastic headlong anxiety to do justice to the black race, we es and s, and ll tor- like a id long nbrage rourite. savage eclined e wild d; his t of a downs Ss were ns and 0 that hout a y fluc- ecided. slavery m and y man y says, th the erence isiastic ce, we THE SLAVE PROBLEM. 191 Heaprtenreteentretiinben iterate elas isi gigs |b have surely (though quite unintentionally) delayed its freedom. This is, I believe, the Opinion of Dr. Howe, and other enlightened philanthropists, Twenty-six years ago New York was a Slave State. How has the curse been shaken off? Not by strin- gent laws and ill-judged prohibitions, but by the introduction of free labour, which rendered that of bondage expensive and inconvenient—though it does not improve the condition. The wisest people say, that Slavery was on the point of extinguishing itself in the South, when, by rendering the supply pira- tical, the value of the article was SO raised in the market, that it became a profitable concern to grow slaves. As Governor Seymour graphically explains the matter :—‘ If the early settler wanted to buy beef, he must buy the whole ox—hide, horns, and tail; then comes a time when he can procure a quarter ; and at last, as population increases, he can go to market and purchase a beef-steak, or any joint most pleasing to his taste. Now the same thing occurs in the case of labour, which, after all, is a marketable commodity. At first it may be neces- sary to take the whole man; then you can hire part of a man; and in due time you may be able to get so much of the time of a man as may just suit your purpose, without being burthened by his infancy or his old age.’ Thus we, who have been seeking to check the institution of Slavery by violent means, 192 ALBANY. have unintentionally been prolonging it; but time will repair this mistake, by rendering the possession of slaves an expensive mode of cultivation—that is, if cotton can be cultivated without it. Slavery existed and does exist in Africa, and in a more suffering and degraded form than that of the West Indies, or of the American Southern States. The slaves bene- fited by their change of servitude; that was a first step towards ultimate freedom; and if, when a suf- ficient number had been imported, their labour had been naturally rendered of less value by the introduc- tion of others, Slavery would quickly have. abolished itself; but anti-slavery laws checked the natural course of Providence ; slave-labour increased, and the chain of the African was riveted by his intended emancipator. Another practical exemplification of an ‘ill-judging friend being worse than an enemy.’ We dined out to-day—a pleasant dinner ; the only peculiarity was the name of each intended occupant being placed on the table opposite every chair. Cod- fish appears to me more delicate here than upon our coasts ; but in general I do not think American fish equal those of the English shores. I have now tasted white fish, black fish, masquelongi, and salmon. The masquelongi is a fresh-water fish, plen- tiful in the Rice Lake. It appears to me a superior kind of pike. Sunday, Nov. 12.—We went to the church still it time ssession at is, if existed ing and 8, or Of 3 bene- a first n a suf- yur had :troduc- bolished natural and the ntended ition of emy.’ the only ecupant Cod- pon our can fish ve now ci, and h, plen- superior rch still THE AMERICAN ‘CLERGY. 193 Sess Seseaasnumamensraeemeee ed served by Dr. Potter, the new Bishop of New York, who does not give up his duty till after his conse. cration. He is a kind and agreeable, as well as a good man ; and I never heard our service with greater pleasure: it was so admirably arranged and read here, that I could not help contrasting it with the church at Toronto, where the service was conducted in a heavy, tedious way. Election returns still incom. plete; the majority supposed to be for the present Governor ; but no one can give certain information. Albany, November 13.—One circumstance js to be observed of the American Episcopalian clergymen, and, as far as I have been able to remark, the same thing may be said of the Presbyterian,—that they all read well, without the nasal tone or the peculiar pronunciation of the North-eastern States. It is a pity that civilians, especially diplomatic men, do not imitate their clergy in this matter. I think the latter, as a body, superior to ours. Among those whose churches I have attended, two ministers, educated and ordained upon our side the Atlantic, both good men, were pompous and tedious in the reading-desk and pulpit. And we must confess that not many in England either read or preach in an attractive manner. On Saturday, the Governor took me to see an excellent Penitentiary belonging to this district. The house has been lately built after the plan of. the superin. tendent, Mr. Pillsbury, a man jiu. possesses the VOL. I. 0 194 ALBANY. qualities of firmness, order, and benevolence in a high degree. The cells are arranged in a way differing from what I have hitherto seen. An oblong block of three or four storeys (the upper ones reached by exterior staircases and galleries, capable of accommodating 185 people) is placed within a large kind of hall admirably ventilated; every cell has an iron bedstead, and those of the women a chair. The large door of iron grating which closes each, is so constructed as to admit sufficient light and air. All are shut by the same mechanical process, managed by an iron bar, which runs the whole length of the block, and even if any one is by accident left unlocked, the door cannot be opened. About three hundred prisoners, male and female, are now confined here—all for short terms; those under long convictions are taken to other prisons. These people are sentenced for a period of about three months; many of them for a shorter time. We found the men at work in two large workshops, one entirely devoted to making cane - bottomed chairs, the other harness. All were busily engaged ; not one lifted an eye or spoke a word. In the women’s ward, there was more variety of employ- ment: washing, ironing, mending, and cooking—but no speaking. One haggard-looking crone of more than eighty years of age, here for the fourth time, lence in 1 a way n oblong er ones capable vithin a ery cell vomen a sh closes ight and process, e whole e is by opened. - female, s; those prisons. of about er time. rkshops, ottomed ngaged ; In the employ- ing—but of more ‘th time, THE PENITENTIARY. 195 looked the personification of incorrigibility. Some few men were at work in the grounds, which having to be newly laid out, afford much promise of occupation; and it has sometimes happened that emancipated prisoners have entreated for employment there. Mr. Pillsbury’s success appears to be owing to his unflinching will and determined discipline; to the strict enforcement of cleanliness, and, ‘above all, to the influence of love which this kind man brings to bear upon his prisoners, for his heart seems to be of the most tender mould. Yet I could wish that the tongues of these unfortunate ones might be a. little loosed, just so much as is allowed by vhe Governor of the gaol at Munich without being followed by evil consequences, There, the prisoners are permitted to speak on matters connected with their labour, but if that liberty is abused, they are made to work alone. Upon the entrance of a prisoner here, he is told he must be industrious, never look up from his work, and keep silence; and that if he conforms to these rules, he will be well fed and kindly treated; he usually conforms immediately. The house has been erected, and all expenses of the establishment are defrayed, by the profits which accrue from the prisoners’ labour. Near Utica there has long been a white rock held as a sacred stone by the Indians. This 02 196 ALBANY. veneration was owing to its being a kind of sienite unique in the district. As its situation was near a spot lately formed into a cemetery, Mr. Seymour proposed that this stone should be removed there to save it from destruction, and to show sympathy for Indian feelings. An agreement with them was made for that purpose ; they also being allowed the liberty of interment in the ground; and the stone may be seen now on a mound at the cemetery. After the election of the present Governor, a chief came to Albany, to prefer some request to him. Being an Oneidan, he spoke of his tribe. Mr.Seymour kindly replying, said—‘I also am an Oneidan, for my residence is at Utica.” The Indians designated the local Governors as their ‘Father,’ and the Presi- dent as their ‘Great Father.” But upon Mr. Seymour making this remark, the Chief quickly and gracefully changed the term of relationship. ‘My Broruzr then is an Oneidan; he will feel for the wants of his Brethren.” Although the Indians may speak and understand English, and when not conducting a diplomatic interview will converse in our language, yet in formal intercourse with the Governors or Governments, ‘they will only carry it on through an: interpreter, bearing in mind the view of preserving their dignity and nationality. I believe they are now very kindly and considerately treated by the ’ sienite as near eymour d there mpathy em was wed the le stone y. ,a chief io him. eymour lan, for ignated e Presi- eymour acefully ROTHER s of his ak and cting a nguage, nors or ugh an serving hey are by the INDIAN THANKSGIVINGS. 197 United States. Their religion is a pure Theism ; and some of those we call the Pagan Indians are, alas ! superior in Christian conduct to the converted ; for the latter practise the vices of cheating and drunk. enness, while the former are simple, pure, and sober, until contaminated by the white man, They believe in a great creating, superintending Spirit, who rewards the good and punishes the evil in a future life; and they have public meetings for prayer and thanksgiving. One is called the ‘ Feast of Strawberries,’ when they assemble to offer up thanks to the Great Giver of all good for the re- turning crop of that berry; and there are other periods of general thanksgiving for a sufficiency of game and for the fruits of the earth. Thus they acknowledge the unity, omnipresence, and omni- science of the Deity; the freewill, responsibility, and immortality of man; and these truths being known and assented to by the American Indians, Christianity is received and accepted by them without much difficulty, as a further dispensation and mes- sage from the Universal Father. From the Governor of New York I have in- quired and learned the meaning of party terms which have before puzzled me—such as Adamantines, Hard-shells, Soft-shells, Loco-focos, Rick-burners,and Pollywogs. It seems these names are highly figu- 198 ALBANY. rative,—they have originated in casual expressions made use of by public speakers which have happened to hit the fancy of the hearers, so that they became cant terms. A Democrat in this country is synony- mous with’a Whig or Liberal in England, while he who is denominated Whig here, is really a Tory or Conservative. The latter party advocate prohibitions, and tariffs, and interference of the Central Govern- ment with local improvements ; while the democrats are free-traders, and promoters of self-government in each State. They say that railroads, and harbours, and bridges, and canals, can be formed and con- ducted at less expense and more advantageously on the spot, than when planned and directed by the Central Government from a distance of many hun- dred miles, where they are apt to degenerate into jobs. Upon some occasion, when the moderate Democrats were accused of yielding rather too much to the views of their opponents, a wag, during his address to a popular assembly, said: ‘ Now I think these politicians are blowing hot and cold; they are too much like crabs when in a state of transition between the soft and the hard shell. Iam for the whole hog—I am a Hard-shell.” And another said, ‘They are Pollywogs’ (the Indian name for tadpoles). So with the Loco-focos, of which party the Barn- burners were an extreme. Now I understand the ressions appened became synony- rhile he Tory or ibitions, Govern- mocrats ment in arbours, nd con- usly on by the ny hun- ate into 10derate 10 much ‘ing his I think they are ansition for the er said, dpoles). > Barn- and the ORIGIN OF PARTY NAMES. 199 i aiid ais gg meaning of the following curious paragraph in one of the local papers some weeks ago: ‘The organ of the Hard-shell Democrats says that orders have been sent from Washington, enjoining all persons holding office under the Central Government to keep away from the approaching Soft-shell Convention at Syracuse ; for this reason it is anticipated the Barn-burners will have control of the convention, and pass anti- Nebraska resolutions.’ The peculiar circumstances which gave origin to the Loco-foco and Barn-burner, are these: during an assemblage of Democrats, some who wished to disperse the meeting obtained the com- mand of the gas-pipes, with an intention of throwing darkness over the deliberations of the said ‘ conven- tion ;’ but the Hard-shells, getting a hint of this plot, provided themselves with lucifer-matches and candles, and when the gas went out suddenly, they soon re- illuminated their proceedings. Hence they were called Loco-focos; and an ultra Loco-foco was taunted with the sobriquet of Barn-burner. We dined yesterday at a very pretty and well- arranged house, belonging to Mr. and Mrs. Pompelly —an Italian name, which has been spoiled by the substitution of an English termination. The dinner was much like one in London, except that the hour was six instead of eight. Isat by an American Major- General, who has travelled much in Europe. From 2co ALBANY. his countenance and manner, I should have supposed him Bavarian; but this city contains a great mixture of the varying national characteristics of Europe. In one quarter Germans are so numerous, that the signs and designations of the shops and eating-houses are in German. Many also of the respectable inhabit- ants there still speak Dutch ; French is less common, but the American, Scotch, Irish, and English blood is mixed up in tolerably equal proportions, and in a short time all these heterogeneous elements will be happily amalgamated. To-day I went to visit the library—a handsome and convenient building, well supplied with valuable and useful books; and afterwards the Governor in- troduced me to the studio of Palmer—a sculptor of evident taste and talent, who has hitherto depended upon the inspiration of his own mind, rather than upon the study of ancient art. Near a spot chiefly inhabited by Dutch settlers, I endeavoured to make a sketch of Albany, with the distant mountains, and an extensive view of the Hudson River; but my fingers soon became so benumbed by cold, that I had not much success. The weather continues very 1ii winter in England, but no decided snow here i present. November 16.—Yesterday was nearly all passed in visiting, to return the civility of those who have upposed mixture ope. In he signs uses are inhabit- ommon, hh blood ind in a will be ndsome valuable mor in- ptor of epended er than | chiefly to make ins, and but my at I had ery iui here ul | passed ho have A PATERNAL GOVERNOR. 201 Sel recta een EES called, or given me invitations, I entered a great many houses. The reception rooms are generally on the ground floor, handsomely fitted up, usually covered by English or French carpets, but extremely dark, They are commonly kept very warm by stoves, or rather furnaces, below. I only saw one open fireplace, in which the fuel was a kind of an- thracite coal. The houses are good, almost always entered by a single flight of stone steps ; from three to four rooms on a floor, but these rooms have a bare, unhomelike appearance to an English eye, from the absence of books, and work, and writing mate- rials ; they look as if in use only for company. We had an agreeable small dinner-party at home—the Bishop of New York 3 Mr. Hall, the paleontologist, and his wife; Mr, Johnson, a judge ; and one or two more. It is believed that the re-election of the present Governor is secure, I rejoice in this, as an indication that good common sense, after all, prevails over an ill-regulated enthusiasm, The other day, a young man received his pardon from Mr, Seymour, after a short imprisonment. In such a case he usually sees the offender upon his liberation; and he gave this youth some friendly advice upon the danger of intemperate habits. The man looked surprised, and exclaimed : ‘Why, sir, I had been told you were all for liquor, and you don’t look like if i \ f it | 202 ALBANY. ciiiwictaiaamniemniinee: one who cares for it.’ ‘ Remember,’ was the reply, ‘that no human Jaw can make a man good. He must learn self-control, and be actuated hy prin- ciple. If laws would have prevented you from getting into mischief, you would not have been sent to prison.’ One day is annually set apart by the custom of each State for a general thanksgiving. Here is an example of the form and manner in which this ss done. The Governor for the time being selects day, and then issues his Proclamation, which is pub- lished in all the papers :— PROCLAMATION. By Horatio Szymour, Governor oF THE StaTE OF New York. An acknowledgment of our dependence upon God, and of our obligation to Him, is at all times the duty of a Christian People. But when the.Almighty has again crowned the year with his goodness, and we are enjoying the gathered fruits of His bounty, it is eminently fitting that we should offer the sacrifice of praise and thanksgiving. I therefore appoint Thursday, the goth day of November, for this appropriate service; and invite the citizens of the State to assemble on that day in their respective places of worship to present their acknowledgments to the Parent of the Universe for his multiplied mercies. And with our thanks- giving let us mingle prayers for a continuance of the number- less blessings we, as a people, enjoy, remembering that His wisdom alone can rightly direct, His power support, and His goodness give strength and security. 1e reply, od. He hy prin- n getting sent to - custom ry. Here hich this g selects h is pub- TATE OF tod, and of a Christian ed the year ed fruits of ld offer the November, zens of the e places of e Parent of our thanks- the number- ng that His rt, and His A MANXMAN. 203 pe atinccenintinisaseui bt In witness whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name and affixed the private seal of the State, at the City [u. s.] of Albany, this roth day of November, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifty-Four, HORATIO SEYMOUR, By the Governor. H. W. Dr Puy, Private Secretary. In driving down one of the streets here, my atten- tion was attracted by the Manx Arms—the three legs—as a sign over a tailor’s shop. I was sure the occupant must be a native of the Isle of Man, and on our return I requested to stop the carriage, that I might ask a question. Upon going into the house I found a man busily employed upon a coat. ‘You area Manxman, I am certain? < To be sure I am,’ was the answer; ‘but who are you?” The tailor and the tailor’s wife and daughter were delighted to hear ‘the name of Murray, and to find I had been at Jurby, about four miles from Bishop’s Court, where the man was born: he has been nineteen years in America 3 he says he has got on pretty well, but that he works harder than he did at home. I was invited to tea, and though I could not accept the invitation, it gave me pleasure to see that my visit was fully appreciated. I have made a sketch of Bishop’s Court, for this m y friend, (Mr. Crow,) from memory ; and as he maintains it to ALBANY. 204 be the most beautiful place in the world, I think the remembrance will be valued. Albany, November 17.—Mr. Seymour and his opponent are still running neck to neck, although we have several times supposed the affair settled; this election has been more fluctuating and longer about than any I ever heard of, not entirely owing to the great extent of territory concerned—for all the votes were taken at the different places in one day; but they have been very long coming in here. At New York, and I think I may say in all the enlightened cities, Seymour has an overwhelming majority, but the distant counties and towns vote for Hiram Clark, and it is now believed they will elect him by a° trifling majority. The numbers to-day are 132,264 for Seymour—131,111 for Clark; there are, how- ever, a few more returns to come in, which may be in favour of the latter. November 18.— We spent yesterday evening quietly, drinking tea with Mrs. S ’s sister, who lives nearly opposite: her interest and excitement at the present moment are naturally great, as a change of Governors will separate this family. Our weather to-day promises to be clear and fine; we have had hardly anything but gloomy, wet, cold days since I arrived here ten days ago. Perhaps we shall go to New York this afternoon. I have heard Ae TORE oo Rh” eee SAME ype Aaa pes Cg RS IL Oe MOOT oe ER IT think and his although led; this er about ig to the the votes lay; but At New ightened rity, but m Clark, im by a‘ 132,264 re, how- ich may evening ster, who citement at, as a lv. Our fine; we cold days ‘haps. we we heard YOUTHFUL HEROISM. of the arrival of my Virginian friend, Miss G. ; from England, and I hope to meet her there. A mere child, named Eli Rheem, has performed an act of heroism worthy of more years and of noblest times. I have cut the details out of a trustworthy print—for this deed deserves to be celebrated as evincing a courage which throws that of the shade. walriors into A NOBLE Boy. RESCUE OF A PASSENGER TRAIN FROM CERTAIN DESTRUCTION, We mentioned a few days since the burning of the Tunnel Bridge, on the Baltimore and Susquehanna Railroad, about five miles south of York, and since learn that the conflagra- tion came very near being followed by one of the most terrible disasters that has lately occurred in railroad travel. It is sup- posed that the bridge took fire from the freight trains which passed about half-past seven o’clock in the morning, and the structure was totally enveloped in flames before it was disco. vered by the residents in the vicinity. At about nine o'clock the frame-work of the bridge fell through, and among the spectators, some twenty in number, was a little boy about twelve years of age, named Eli Rheem, who, remembering that the express passenger train was then about due from York, started off at the top of his speed to endeavour to stop the train which he knew must be close at hand. As soon as he reached the curve, about two hundred yards from the bridge, he observed the train coming at full speed, and fearing that he would be unable to stop them unless by the use of extraordi- 205 206 ALBANY. nary means, the noble little fellow took his position on the track, and running towards the approaching train with his hands raised, caught the attention of the engineer, who imme- diately reversed his engine, and stopped within four hundred yards of impending destruction, the piers being some twenty feet from the rocky bed below, and the gap some sixty feet wide. Had the boy not placed himself on the track, he would doubtless have failed in his noble effort, as the engineers are so often cheated by mischievous boys on the route that they seldom pay any attention to them. Even when he stopped, he thought he had been cheated by a youngster with more daring than his associates, and was surprised to see the little flaxen-headed fellow stand his ground, and endeavouring to recover his lost breath, to answer his questions as to the cause of his interruption. We learn that the passengers, when they ascertained the cause of the stoppage of the train, and viewed the precipice over which they were near being dashed, libe- rally rewarded the boy for his presence of mind and daring, and that the Board of Directors, at their meeting yesterday, appropriated 1oo dollars as an additional recompence. Eli Rheem, a boy but twelve years of age, was the only one of twenty persons present, most of them men, who had fore- thought sufficient for the occasion.— Balt, American. The name of Rheem leads one to suppose that this gallant little fellow must be of Dutch origin ; I shall be glad if England can claim the originating of his parentage. Alas! for the horrors of war contrast- ing with the peaceful triumph of this child! Our brave soldiers sacrificed, to sacrifice those who under different circumstances they would die to save! I dread looking at the Huglish news. Every mn on the . with his "ho imme- r hundred ne twenty sixty feet , he would ‘ineers are that they » stopped, with more . the little vouring to » the cause when they ind viewed shed, libe- nd daring, yesterday, ence. Eli only one of . had fore- un. > that this 1; I shall ng of his contrast- ld! Our hose who d die to s. Every COMMUNITY OF SHAKERS. 2c7 NMR Riemer ee mail now brings sorrowful intelligence of the fall of some young man who, if not a relative of my own, is the darling of some house and home for which I feel an interest. What does not that Russian deserve? I trust he will some day be shut up as a madman, unfit to be trusted with a knife; and then perhaps his wretched serfs may learn that Christianity does not teach them war, To-day the Governor and Mrs. Seymour took me to see a community of Shakers, who live about ten miles from this place ; they appear to be a harmless, industrious set of people, a kind of Quaker Order of Monks and Nuns, who feed well, set a good example as to morality and neatness, and eschew as a crime everything approaching to beauty and elegance. We had some excellent bread and cheese, saw them make their useful brooms, and bought some of their delicate baskets, in the manufacture of which the line of beauty has unconsciously introduced itself. Kind Brother Frederick, the ruler of the establish- ment, showed us all over it. A Shaker village has One great advantage over other monastic commu- nities—no vows are imposed, and the freedom of egress is perfectly unshackled. We drove through a high sandy district, with scattered woods of birch and yellow pine, the ground diversified by low hills, with extensive views of distant mountains and the i i] it i] * ; in | Hl i i init bp ag 1 fy Hl Rite } i lf Yo i? | | 208 ALBANY. one who DOCTRINE OF COMPENSATIONS, 225 ii took them away from the Governor’s private room. This is the third robbery I have suffered since I came to America, Paint-brushes and pencils all stolen out of my bag at Montreal; cloaks and shawls carried off during the railway accident between Niagara and Candaigua ; and now my drawings! So many indifferent subjects cross the Atlantic, in hopes of finding prey here, that pickpocketing and petty thefts are common; indeed it is almost im. possible to guard against them 3 and, according to the doctrine of compensations, I must be content to put up with such trivial miseries, in the hope that they may frank my life and limbs through the perils of extensive journeying by land and sea. Sunday, I went to Grace Church, a Gothic elevation designed by a son of Professor Renwick 3 the effect is much injured by all the windows being of painted glass, of vivid colours, ill arranged ; there were some good bits, and erasure with a sponge would relieve these loaded panes and improve the general effect, even without any other change in the coloured glass. As it is, the church is made too obscure, and good taste offended by red, blue, and yellow, interspersed without the smallest reference to harmony—that great require- ment without which design igs nothing in stained windows. I walked back to 5th Avenue in such heavy rain that no umbrella could avail to keep me dry, even for a short distance ; and though my ‘ locality’ VOL. I. @ So — | bump carried me back in the right direction, yet on 226 NEW YORK. arriving at the place, I rang at a wrong door; for as there is a street at right angles to the house, I had never studied its exterior appearance, and therefore was at a loss to distinguish it from three other corners; till I walked up stairs and disturbed a strange gentleman, I did not find out my error. Mr. F , the protector of emigrants, whom I met last at Spencer Wood, accompanied me yesterday to see the New York Institution for the Deaf and Dumb. IT had only a short time for my visit, but it was suf- ficient to satisfy my mind of their excellent training ; one of the masters is himself a deaf mute who was brought up in the school, and the wife of another was also a pupil: she is pretty and intelligent, but still remains only able to express herself by signs and writing. I was introduced to the first class as an English lady who had crossed the Atlantic to see their country and its institutions: each young person wrote upon his or her slate a little address, varied in expression according to individual character and feeling. Gratification at my visit and respect for Britain were predominant; one or two made use of the expression ‘ proud’ England, but erased it imme- diately upon my suggesting that ‘old’ England would be more appropriate. The superintendent, Mr. Peat, made a request that I would propose a ‘ n, yet on r; for as se, I had therefore ree other turbed a ror. Mr. met last ay to see d Dumb. ; was suf- training ; who was other was but still igns and a English see their g person 88, varied acter and spect for de use of | it imme- England intendent, propose a THE MAINE LAW, 227 een netnentatinewheneetninsiteinreinei ie subject upon which they could offer the conclusions of their own minds, I inquired ‘Whether the motive of love, or that of emulation, was that by which the course of education could best be guided.’ All but one preferred love: some because it was the great Christian rule 3 others because it was the most effective; and one, who at first was in favour of emulation, rubbed out her sentence with an air of repentance, when she read what she thought the better choice made by her associates. I found that neither Mr. F nor Mr. C were of my Opinion respecting the best modes of eradicating slavery and drunkenness, I thought their reasons for passing the Maine law told against themselves ; for instance—‘that a large number of the population were in favour of it.’ Is not this very fact a proof that if you leave improvement to take its own course, the misuse of stimulants will cure itself; and a proof, also, that intemperance is gradually lessen- ing? For, some years ago, the people would not have favoured a Sumptuary law working against their own liberty, for the purpose of encouraging sobriety. It is said the Maine law js acting advan- tageously in that State. Not a good argument, I think ; because temporary success does not justify mistaken principles; besides which, I have reason to believe that the improvement is more on the sur. face than radical ; that much more drinking is now QZ lm — > ——— A a arnt pBncpsee eygribie te 228 NEW YORK. done on the sly ; and thus ill-informed though well- intentioned people have been offering a bonus to hypocrisy, while they thought they were discouraging intemperance. I find there are now laws enough in the State of New York to keep down liquor-shops, if they were executed: but no; it is too difficult to put in force laws against individual failings. There- fore such laws become a dead letter ; and now they want to heap more prohibitions on the statute- book, to make up for not enforcing the first. They may as well fight the wind. Human nature was put into this world to learn self-control, and to gain experience ; a man will never be the more vir- tuous for prohibitions, or the more strong-minded for being kept wholly away from temptation: he must learn to refuse the evil and choose the good, and, if he will not learn this by the inculcation of good principles, he will never become more strong in virtue by being kept out of the reach of evil. This is the principle of the public schools in England. The head masters of Eton, and perhaps of the other schools, have falsified it with regard to smoking ; and what is the consequence? ‘The boys consider it manly to brave punishment; and there are few among them to whom cigars are not growing to be a necessary indulgence; besides which, they half smother themselves by putting their heads under ugh well- bonus to couraging mough in 10r-shops, ifficult to . There- now they > statute- t. They ture was |, and to more vir- g-minded ution: he the good, ucation of strong in vil. This England. the other smoking ; 'S consider e are few ving to be they half ads under WASHINGTON IRVING. 229 een water to disguise the smell ; whereas, if the habit had been treated as ungentlemanly and suited only to the ale-house, without any positive prohibition, it would probably, like other fashions, have become obsolete. December 4.—I went with Mr. and Mrs. B and Mr. O to a pretty cottage on the Hudson River, to visit Mr. and Mrs. G. S——: the country all white ; so much snow that, for the first time, I was driven in a sleigh from the railway- station. I found a pleasant family, whose mode of life and arrangements were very much those of a small household in England. We paid a morning visit to Washington Irving : he is a much younger- looking man than I expected to see; nothing of the petted or the spoilt favourite in his simple retiring manner : he was all, and more, than I expected; and I felt unalloyed pleasure in such an introduction. Bitter winds and snow continuing, I must give up any idea of West Point for the present, and be con- tent with two or three days pleasantly and quietly spent. To-morrow I shall go to Tarry Town; and if the Governor and Mrs. Seymour do not meet me there, I shall fufil my engagement to them by re- turning to Albany. December 8.—I came on to Albany last night in cold snowy weather, and rejoined my friends, as 230 NEW YORK, they were unable to come to me. The journey was not pieasant, though the banks of the Hudson were still fine, even in their wintry dress. The steamer which brought us over the river from the railway station went crashing through the ice; and I was not sorry to find myself in State-street. Friday ,8th.—Mrs. Seymour took me out in a sleigh to pay some visits; the coldest day I have ever felt. Saturday, December 9.—We walked to the Senate-house and some other places. The streets very slippery ; sleighs with their bells in all direc- tions. Dined out. Better news from the East: reinforcements have reached our army. As it has already fought and conquered five to one, I cannot share the apprehensions of those who fear the allied troops will be beaten out of the Crimea. The power of Russia was underrated, and for that we are punished. December 10.—There has been a thaw, and snow is decreasing. The sleighs seem to go heavily ; those with one horse are called cutters. It is only the machines drawn by two which are dignified by the name of sleighs. The Governor is busy winding up business, so as to place the affairs of the State in the hands of his successor, Hiram Clark, by the 1st of January. I have not seen this gentleman; it does not seem that his talents are appreciated highly urney was dson were e steamer e railway nd I was in a sleigh ever felt, 1 to the he streets all direc. he East : As it has I cannot the allied ea. The at we are and snow ly ; those only the od by the winding > State in y the ist eman ; it ed highly AN UNBIASSED TESTIMONIAL. 231 henna incident lenpmennceinecclcid tate ps by individuals who have been voting for him be- cause he belongs to their particular party, while Mr. Seymour appears to be liked by those who voted against him. I extract the following from a paper politically opposed :— ‘Governor Seymour, in his late admirable address at the opening of the New House of Refuge, near New York, stated that ‘during this last year he had been compelled to act upon two thousand cases jor pardon. This duty is not only most arduous, but most perplexing and unpleasant. To exercise the pardoning power discreetly requires much labour and anxious thought; the entreaties of friends, of wives, parents, children, is often overwhelmingly painful ; and he would be more than human who did not sometimes err in the exercise of this important prerogative. Our Governors have, however, seldom subjected themselves to just censure in the exercise of their power, and Governor Seymour as seldom as any of his predecessors. His decisions have almost uniformly been wise and humane; and if he has sometimes crushed the hopes of the unhappy rela- tives of the imprisoned, it has never been because he did not sympathize with them in their deep mis- fortune, but because he believed justice forbade the exercise of the clemency sought.’ When one considers the vast distances in this Sa et ee ae Sa << a i A a A 232 NEW YORK. SS Te ea ana anh etoneenc messin atin shins niiespicbiainacurinbscininiis siissiaisay ’ Union, and the size of its component parts, it is easy to understand how little a government of centraliza- tion can ever suit the wants of so large and hetero- geneous an Empire. The State of New York alone is as large as all England, and it is evident that local governments, such as California or Virginia, must have a much betier idea of the genius and the re- quirements of their several countries than can be gained by the President and the Congress in session at Washington ; so, for all local purposes, each State ought to govern itself, and that must have been the intention of the founders of the Union. It is true that as yet police and postal arrange- ments are in their infancy, and to an English ob- server they appear but clumsily organized ; but time will improve and consolidate these matters, and I should hope that a future generation will also con- sider the exercise of political rights as due rather to property, and the virtues of principle, independence, and freedom from selfish motives, than to the mere fact of an ignorant, profligate individual having lived, and perhaps misused, twenty-one years of life; so instead of the ‘ Know-nothing’ proposition to take uway the elective franchise from newly imported citizens, (which would be invidious enough among 2 people who owe their success and prosperity to a mixture of races added to the Anglo-Saxon element,) it le} ite 4h 2. f. | a af 9 TE | it is easy sntraliza- 1 hetero- rk alone that local ia, must 1 the re- 1 can be 1 session ich State ive been arrange- lish ob- but time , and I iso con- ather to endence, nere fact ved, and instead way the citizens, , people mixture ent,) it SECTARIAN ASSUMPTION. 233 eR iuererieec ce ee appears common sense that the electors of Governors should be those who have some reasonable ideas of government, and some stake in the common pro- sperity. We this day heard a sermon embody- ing higher church assumption than even English Tractarianism ; it strongly maintained infallibility for the Protestant Episcopal Church in scriptural matters. The kind and good Bishop of New York was present; but his advocacy of Church claims is not that of spiritual despotism; like Fénélon, Bishop Horatio Potter would lead home the peasant’s cow; his Christian benevolence can never be moved or guided by a thought which could mar its charity.—The rain falls fast, and I hope to get south before snow and ice again encumber the roads and streets. Monday, December 11.—Snow again, but the thaw proceeding. I sent my letter, containing the hair of the poor old woman whose son has become a Mormon, by a channel through which it may pro- bably reach the Salt Lake. I think the possible future of that extraordinary community an interest. ing speculation. Strange that the off-scourings of European civilization should establish polygamy —a practice branded as felonious by every other State in the Union, a barbarism which even Turkey is gradually casting off! Does not this show Nat eateries etieemte ee meee ae = ee She a serene ws. i 1 | i] fait 1 | j ‘ i | vat H Fh 1 Yi meu af H if « ti q ‘& i : io , i i Ag ae te ea it 1 te i } i iH if at if | ’ HT it | i H he H atk i tt +f ' ‘ i i Pes f \.e t 4 snieartisens cenit a mementos a a tO etn 234 NEW YORK. the tendency of ignorance to return again to the habits of savage life, and also to go back to the government of a theocracy because they feel them- selves incapable of self-government? Yet even the present condition and past history of this singular community is not without some elements of gran- deur, and even of promise. Expelled by persecution and violence from the parent state, the Mormons earnestly and sagaciously employed themselves to build up a state for themselves. ‘ Driven from civi- lized life, they sought rest and a home in the wilder- ness and the desert.’ Blinded as they are by super- stition and fanaticism, they are still pioneers of civi- lization, and it is impossible not to admire the vigour and energy with which they accomplished their hegira. Sitting proudly at the foot of the Wahsach mountains, the City of the Salt Lake begins to fulfil the magnificent projects of its founders, and rolls it along an arid desert like the roses of Jericho (Anas.atica), to find fresh soil and new homes in the desert. Thei rsettlement only dates from ’47 : yet wide and well watered streets and gardens, churches, school-houses, mills, and public buildings, now orna- ment a city laic out upon a plan capable of including half a million of inhabitants. Though the people and their institutions have departed widely and vilely from the laws of morality and Christianity, as the to the « to the 21 them- even the singular of gran- ‘secution Lormons elves to ‘om Civi- > wilder- y super- 3 of civi- \e vigour 2d their W ahsach egins to ers, and ' Jericho omes in "47: yet hurches, ow Orna- ncluding ople and d vilely 7, as the HOPES FOR THE FUTURE. 235 Uiuueniaueetan ce ee Cee darkness of ignorance becomes enlightened, we must hope the influence of designing villains will be shaken off, and that of the better minded gain a reasonable influence over the deluded, but not evil- intentioned majority ; so that, before very long, the slough which at present contaminates and defaces the body politic of the Mormonite community may be cast off. Your affectionate A. M. M. i | | | i eeentheennatine ne ie itt tie ” f I. a ne : noe NFER hbase LETTER XIV. New York, Dec. 13, 1854. My pear Frienps— An American gentleman with whom I have become well acquainted, took charge of me yesterday from Albany. I left Mr. and Mrs. Seymour with regret, but they promise to come to Washington before I proceed farther south, On Saturday I again visited the great paleontologist, Mr. Hall. He gave me an interesting and instructive geological chart of his own arrangement, which, while it exem- plifies only the geology of New York and the adjoining States is, in fact, an epitome of that of the world jas from the primitive rocks, the strata follow in regular succession up to the cretaceous, tertiary, and alluvial, wanting only those beds of oolite and chalk which, though well known in England, are not to be seen here. In Mr. Hall’s map, the principal fossils to be found in each formation are represented above it— a plan which considerably assists the tyro. The Acta ae 238 NEW YORK. sshd eee ne Governor of New York promises me some specimens of a new mineral lately found on the shores of Lake Superior, which has been named ‘ chloractolite,’ from its bright starry lustre. It something resembles a dark green serpentine in colour, but the shining brilliant appearance it has will render it valuable for jewellery purposes. No specimens have yet been found n.uch larger than a sixpence, and most I saw were not bigger than pearls. Mr. and Mrs. Hall came to Albany in the evening: he told us about his geological tow: round Lake Superior and Michigan, and let me have reports by the United States’ geologists Foster and Whitney, which include some very interesting sketches of the trap-rock called the Monument on Isle Royal, and of the singular castle-shaped forma- tions which border part of Lake Superior. I recollect that Banvard’s Mississippi Panorama represented rocks beyond St. Louis of a castellated form. The light was more favourable this morning for seeing the Hudson River than when I went up it last, We left much snow at Albany ; but upon approaching New York the ground was no longer white, and an afternoon clear and sunshiny concluded by a pro- mising red sunset. We arrived at the St. Nicholas Hotel soon after five o’clock. Mrs. Elizabeth Black- well came to see me in the evening. I had some conversation with Mr. Delevan, one of the con- scientious promoters of the Maine Law, &. I was specimens s of Lake ite,’ from sembles a > shining luable for een found saw were | came to reological id let me ts Foster teresting ment on d forma- recollect resented m. The r seeing D it last. roaching , and an YY @ pro- Nicholas h Black. ad some she con- I was THE FIVE POINTS, 239 aaa 8 not convinced by his arguments; I could not help thinking that he forgot the American principle of individual freedom ; the same reasoning he made use of would hold good for every kind of interference with our neighbours when we disapprove their con- duct. It is curious that the New England people, descendants of those Pilgrim Fathers who crossed the Atlantic to preserve their own freedom of opinion, have ever proved themselves intolerant as regards the spiritual liberty of others. December 15.—I visited the Five Points yesterday, and my expectations were fully realized. No fine buildings, no clap-trap exhibitions of classification and order and philanthropic luxury. Mr. Peate’s charity ‘worketh by love.’ The destitute, the friend- less, the erring, here find aid, friendship, advice, and consolation ; the poor ‘ have the Gospel preached to them,’ and the sick and the sorrowful are healed, comforted, and bid to go in peace, as Christ would have bid them go. December 16.—A return of visits occupied nearly the whole of yesterday, as I set out this morning by rail to Philadelphia. I went across the ferry to Brooklyn, to call upon Mr. and Mrs. § ’s, (of Ottawa) youngest daughter, Mrs. C » and T there met John Mackay, who told me that my wish is gratified by the name of Bytown being finally changed to that of Ottawa City. The weather here 240 NEW YORK. is now damp and mild. I crossed the North River ferry at nine o’clock, to take the cars for Phila- delphia. We passed through several towns, in a flat country, devoid of picturesque scenery for the first sixty miles. Then at last I could have believed myself on the western outskirts of the New Forest, substituting hemlock spruce and red cedars for the yews and hollies of England. As we approached the shores of the Delaware, the red cedars became so numerous that many of the fields were bordered with them; and from their regularity I suppose they must have been planted. I am glad to see some signs of planted trees in this State and that of New York ; so some of these days these may be fine single trees. At present I have not met with anything I should call fine-spreading ornamental timber; and I see that it can only arise from new plantations ; for the trees of the forest run up tall and slender, without tap roots, and they have such slight hold of the ground, that when thinned out or left standing alone, the first storm lays them prostrate. The Delaware is a fine river, and Philadelphia av exten- sive city; but there is an uninteresting sameness in its long streets of red brick houses, with glaring white window-shutters. Circumstances will not allow of my prolonging my stay beyond to-morrow. I observe no more evidence of Quakerism in this town than in any other. rth River for Phila- s,in a flat the first » believed w Forest, rs for the ached the ecame 80 ered with ose they see some it of New ine single iything I ber; and ntations ; 1 slender, it hold of standing te. The av. exten- neness in 1 glaring will not “Morrow, o in this DOGMATISM. 241 Sunday, December 17.—A gloomy-looking, wintry day, though without snow, and the cold less extreme than at Albany. After a search of two hours yes- terday afternoon, I found the residence of the Bishop of Pennsylvania, brother to the Bishop of New York. I was kindly received by Mrs. Potter, and spent the evening at her house 3 but the bishop is absent upon distant episcopal duty—much to my regret. I was taken to St. Andrew’s church this morning, and heard a sermon devoid of hepe and love. —depravity, total depravity—gloom, misery, and despair—the light of the Gospel extinguished, and sin and Satan made despotic over this wretched world! The church was crammed ; but I saw several people sleeping soundly through the preacher’s de- hunciations, and few appeared to be edified. I have now heard the two extremes of preachers, high and low, each taking a one-sided view, and each main- taining a kind of infallibility for their own individual opinion under the shields of Church and Scripture— both equally dogmatic, and equally sure that every view except his own is erroneous. I drank tea with Mrs, Potter, and at nine o’clock Dr. R called to take me to see Mrs. R, » and her fine house and conservatories, gorgeous French satin furniture, and Gobelin tapestried chairs worthy of Windsor Castle. Both in furniture and dress, the VOL. I. R tits een ee o een re er ag ene eer e 242 BALTIMORE. majority of American ladies appear to be wholly regardless of expense. Baltimore, December 19.—Before leaving Phila- delphia yesterday, I made acquaintance with an agree- able physician, Dr. G , who introduced me to our consul, Mr. Mathew. The Consul knows friends of mine, and I was much obliged to him for some useful information. Although heavy snow fell the early part of the morning, as my departure was de- layed till twelve o’clock, the weather cleared. I had a pleasant sunshiny journey of four hours to Balti- more, where I found few signs of snow. Mrs, Ww , one of my pleasant acquaintances of the White Mountains, met me at this hotel, and took me to her home—snug, cheerful, and well (though not too finely) furnished. My friend showed me some shells, and evinced ‘more interest in natural produc- tions than I have found among ladies generally in this country. We passed over three rivers in our way here yesterday—the Delaware, the Gunpowder, and the Susquehanna; the last a magnificent water, and the same I saw as a smaller stream in my way from Ithaca to Syracuse. Baltimore is situated upon the Patapca, which is here very broad, and more like an arm of the sea than a river. December 20.—Mrs. W took me this morning to see Mount Hope, a lunatic asylum, managed by be wholly ing Phila- h an agree- ced me to ws friends n for some ww fell the re was de- ed. I had s to Balti- ow. Mrs. ses of the d took me hough not me some ‘al produc- enerally in ers in our ‘unpowder, ent water, in my way 1ated upon and more is morning anaged by SISTERS OF CHARITY, 243 —snreenanineinacietatticalttiniihineai about twenty Sisters of Charity, who reside at a house in a very pretty situation, overlooking the city and neighbourhood. The sisters act under the direction of an excellent Protestant physician—Dr. Stokes. No bigotry upon either side mars Christian labour : love, cheerfulness, comfort, and industry alleviate and bless the inmates of Mount Hope. So much pains is taken to avoid even the appearance of coercion, that the window-frames, which are made of cast-iron of a particular construction, are opened a little way by the same movement at top and bottom thus letting in sufficient air without the possibility of the gap being wide enough for danger, so that patients are allowed to open them without risk, A library of suitable and amusing books, objects of natural history, music, handiworks, are all at the disposal of the inmates; and though some must be under restraint, it is a restraint of the kindest and gentlest description. We afterwards went to a bazaar of ladies’ work, held for the benefit of a home for the aged in reduced circumstances. All denominations of religionists had united their endeavours; and although I observe much variety of opinion in re. ligious matters, I think that Christians here do lay aside their differences when a common work is to be accomplished. I dined and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs, W. R2 244 WASHINGTON. December 21.—Yesterday, I saw two of the prettiest and best-appointed houses in this place; both fitted up in good taste, but without the extreme extrava- gance and ostentation I remarked in some of the residences of the Northern States. Here, for the first time, I see nothing but black servants—slaves, I believe; but their manner and countenances ex- press contentment and cheerfulness; and certainly the relation of mistress and servant in the south has amore agreeable aspect than that of the same station in the Northern States, which is commonly charac- terized by complaints of annoyance upon one side, and a saucy indifference upon the other. The dinner- party at Mrs. W. 3 was agreeable, and I met there several pretty Southern ladies: their voices and way of speaking struck me as more refined and graceful than those of the other States I have visited. Among some of them, too, I find more just views of England and English society—at least, among those of Baltimore ; further on, I understand, there is universal prejudice, and an embittered tone of fecling, arising partly from family recollections of the severities practised by the English government and military, in the struggle for independence ; and partly from the , well-intentioned but ill-judged interference of the present English generation about the Slavery question. I reached Washington this afternoon——-so much in the dark, that I was e prettiest both fitted e extrava- me of the e, for the ts—slaves, nances ex- | certainly south has me station aly charac- n one side, "he dinner- and I met voices and efined and es I have find more y—at least, inderstand, ttered tone llections of yovernment lence; and ill-judged generation Washington that I was THE CAPITOL AND MUSEUM. 245 et a nee casas en unable to judge of the beauties of the Potomac, the shores of which river we must have skirted in our way. December 22.—I dine to-day with the British minister, who has been so obliging as to show me the Capitol and Museum, where I saw many interesting but uncatalogued specimens in natural history. There is an Alligator Gar from Take Pontchartrain, which, as far as it was possible to judge from distant inspection, is of a different kind from that specimen which I obtained from Lake Champlain, although certainly of the same family. An extraordinary-looking fish, two or three feet long, with a platypus like snout (which seems made for scooping up mud or sand, as it extends half a foot over the mouth), was in the same case. There are sitting mummies from Central America with singu- larly short forearms; and an ornithorynchus from Australia, the claws of which have the property of inflicting venomous wounds. Part of the Capitol is a handsome building, but the glaring white with which the stone is painted mars its effect; and heavy ugly wings are in process of erection. I shall not see Congress in session until after Christmas. From a verandah out of the library, I gained a good view of the site of Washington and the Potomac river. ‘the ground plan of wide alleys diverging from the Capitol is a fine one; if ever the present 246 WASHINGTON. _ small mean-looking brick houses should be replaced by a handsome public and domestic architecture, this city will be worthy to be called the Capital of the Union. But at present the population is less than that of Detroit, and the general appearance of the town not half as handsome. Saturday, December 23.—1 was introduced to several gentlemen, members of the Legislative Houses, and of the high legal courts; and I find society here most agreeable. Dr. and Mrs. B ; White Mountain friends, called and took me to pay some visits. And in the evening, at eight o’clock, I was politely received by the President and Mrs. Pierce. I was at first shown into comfortable and handsomely furnished rooms, alone; but she soon joined me, and after a while, the President came in. He is a-quiet-looking, pale, gentlemanly man; but both he and Mis. P had a man- ner of subdued unostentatious sadness, so that during this visit I thought more and sympathized more with the bereaved parents, than with them as the President and President’s wife of the United States of America. In about half an hour I took leave, and returned to this hotel in time for a late tea. Sunday, December 24.—Rain having fallen last night, and frost having followed, the pavement of the streets is covered by sheets of ice, and it appears quite impos- replaced hitecture, Yapital of n is less arance of duced to egislative d I find 3. B—, k me to at eight dent and mfortable but she President tlemanly a@ man- so that :pathized them as > United r I took 1e for a vst night, ie streets e impos- NEGROES AND THEIR MASTERS. 247 etic sible to venture out. I heard a great many amusing stories to-day of Southern origin. There is certainly great attachment between the negroes and their masters, (speaking generally,) in spite of the facts detailed in Uncle Tom. One gentleman told me that he has a distant plantation, which he some- times visits alone; at dinner-time, he finds a table loaded with all kinds of delicacies, presents from the slaves. He remonstrated with an old Darky who waited, upon the uselessness of dressing fowls, turkey, geese, ducks, ham, &c., for one person, “No matter, massa. When massa comes, must have good dinner on table, whether massa eat it or not.’ A negro had an unfortunate love for brandy, and though in other respects a good ‘ boy,’ he was caught stealing his favourite drink, At Seventy years of age, his master did not wish to punish him severely. So he appealed to Blackey’s Own conscience. ‘Harry, you know you deserve correction ; but with all your faults, you have a notion of justice. Now, if you think it right, you shall go unpunished ; if not, you shall condemn yourself” ‘ Well, massa, me ole man—me take ten lashes, and me hope be better.’ And he went out, ordered his own punishment, and submitted to it without a murmur ! A Frenchman and his wife, settled in the South, a few miles from a town where the husband went in 248 WASHINGTON. every morning for his employment: he procured a horse, and his wife made him an ornamented bridle, and smartened him up, and he was to ride backwards and forwards to avoid fatigue; in coming home one day, a rattlesnake lay in a threatening attitude in the path; the horse started, and, when pressed to pass, threw his master actually upon the reptile: he jumped up and ran one way, the rattlesnake making off the other, and he tuld his wife: ‘Never saw a snake so dom-scared in all my life!’ On Christmas-day I walked to church with a young lady, whose family reside within a few miles of this place; but they take up their residence in this house during the winter. I understand that the habit of hotel life is every year becoming more general in the States: this is partly encouraged by the troubles arising from servants ; the older ladies get rid of house-keeping, and the young ladies are indulged with constant society; but to English tastes this mode of existence would be unbear- able—continued noise, bustle, and excitement, no re- pose of mind, and no home duties. It is advantageous to a foreigner, who wishes to become acquainted with the people of the country; but I should suppose it must be ruinous to the manners and the domestic n,aracter of the higher class of young women ; frivolity and indolence must be encouraged, for any regular plan of industrial occupation is a hopeless attempt in such places as these. I would rather ocured a d bridle, ackwards ome one titude in ‘essed to ptile: he » making va snake imas-day se family they take e winter. very year is partly ants ; the he young ; but to e unbear- nt, no re- ntageous ited with _ suppose domestic women ; , for any hopeless id rather A MOTLEY ASSEMBLAGE. 249 ii take up my abode in any farm-house in England, than be condemned to fritter away my life in a great American hotel. Still, for me, as a stranger and a traveller, it is uncommonly pleasant; I find ac- quaintances from Cuba, California, all the Southern States ; from each of the Northern—even some from Canada ; naval men, who have visited Japan ; politi- cians, judges, bishops, botanists, geologists, educa- tionalists, philanthropists, abolitionists, slave-holders, voyages of discovery men, and men who have been some of all these things at various periods of their lives, with a large number of ladies, all willing to converse, and vying in kindness and hospitality towards me, the only foreigner and stranger among them. All this makes me sometimes fear I may be inclined to over-value myself, and that before my return to England I may be puffed up by conceit and vanity: the best hope is, that I hardly have time to become inflated ; for there is also much here to make one forget self. The Bishop of Pennsylvania, brother to my friend the Bishop of New York, arrived here from a tour in his diocese (which has the extent of all England), the day before yesterday, to superintend or take part in an Association for educational purposes, which holds its sessions (or conventions, as they are called here) at the Smithsonian Institution, Bishop Potter is so good as to allow of my accompanying him there, so that he unites instruction and at- 250 WASHINGTON. tention to # stranger with his professional duties: it is impossible not to feel deeply the agreeable and useful influence of his truly Christian heart and powerful mind, so that I consider myself most for- tunate in such an acquaintance. December 28.—I spent nearly all day at the meeting of the Educational Association; much in- teresting information was elicited, particularly from Mr. Barnard, who having been to England for the purpose of comparing our institutions with those of the United Sistes, showed himself well informed and candid in his deductions. I was surprised to find that there are still 600,000 people in the United States unable either to write or read; and that this ignorance is by no means confined to the emigrant population. I accompanied the bishop to a party at Mr. Corcoron’s, where there are some pretty pictures, one of Morland’s, from which I remember seeing a print in my childhood. The educational meeting did not break up until Friday, the 29th, after pro- posing that the next meeting of the Association shall be held at New York, the end of August, 1855. The Bishop of Pennsylvania and other members left Washington in the afternoon of that day. Among _ the remarks made by Professor Henry and others, as to the results of early discipline and self-control upon the character of after-life; it was observed that no instance of unhappy, childish old age could be ties: it le and rt and ost for- at the uch in- y from for the hose of formed ‘ised to United 1at this nigrant arty at ictures, eeing a neeting er pro- yn shall , 1855. ers left Among hers, as ol upon chat no uld be THE TWIG AND TREE. 251 siesheyeetienicemtnriiienitoraingialilenibiiseascaimicic aes ii gc brought to mind, in which the cultivation of the intellect, and the habits of varied study, alternating with healthy bodily exercise, were continued without intermission after sixty years of age, and had been regularly pursued in previous life. It is supposed that old people must be wedded to the Opinions and customs of their youth; but this is the misfortune of those only who consider their notions fixed and their education and information complete: a man still seeking instruction at seventy will be as open to conviction and to change of opinion as he was at seventeen: it is the ‘too-old-to.learn people’ who sink into dotage and depression. Another awful fact for the dissolute or the idle youth must be stated— that even when the check of public opinicn and love of approbation induce self-control and moral con- duct during the middle age, if there has not been laid in early life a foundation of principle and good habits, the consequences of early profligacy show themselves in a return to vicious acts, as mental power wanes with added years, and the hoary sinner goes to his grave in sin and misery—so the end of that man is worse than his beginning. It may be well for the young to hear this; for it was enunciated and agreed to as truth by a body of men whose know- ledge and experience can hardly be gainsaid. This evening I was invited by Mrs. Fremont, in the absence of her husband, to see a series of daguerreo- 252 WASHINGTON. types, brought by Colonel Fremont from the Rocky Mountains: though many had reference merely to a choice of country for railroads, they are on the whole very interesting; some rocks of the old red sandstone formation stood up from a plain, in form and appearance like gigantic Egyptian statues ; these were in the Mormon district. On returning to Willard’s, I found dancing going on very merrily in the ladies’ room, four negroes—piano, hautboy, violin, and violoncello—playing in excellent tune, and with sufficient’ taste and time. The ladies were all in demi-toilette; but I do not see so generally the absurd flaunty style of. attire so remarkable at New York. Yours affectionately, A. M. M. LETTER XV. THE NEW YEAR. WasHInarton, January t, 1855, My pear Frrenps— No former year of my life has begun so strangely as this! I think there is something beau- tiful in one feature of the American celebration of New Year’s Day. It is made an Opportunity for the oblivion of neglects, and for the forgiveness of social injuries. On this day, visits of kindness and congratulation are not confined to intimate friends, but every one who has a wish to be civil to his neighbour is cordially received by him or her. The ladies commonly stay at home to welcome their visitors, while gentlemen make a point of calling upon all their acquaintances, remaining at each house perhaps not more than five minutes ; but still the call is accepted as one of cordiality and good- will. In many families, refreshments of an elegant kind are prepared and offered by the lady of the house; and from the President downwards, the 254 WASHINGTON. population in ali the towns and cities are intent upon the promotion of hospitality and kind {i ling, Mr. Crampton took me into the diplomatic circle at the White House, where, being presented to most of the gentlemen, I actuaily shook hands with the Russian minister; and at this moment was not that the greatest homage I could offer to the peace-making duty of the day? We next visited Senator Marcy’s, where there was a re- ception, which, like that of the President, may be attended by everybody. As we were early, the party was small; but afterwards I went to Dr. B ‘s, where for three hours I was present at an in-pouring of visitors, and I made the acquaintance of many interesting and agreeable people; among them a charming Lithuanian lady, the wife of a Polish gen- tleman of rank, nearly connected with Prince Czar- toriski. Dancing and other amusements at the Hotel in the evening. January 2.—Part of the morning was devoted to the School of Design, which is well directed by Mr. Whittaker, who was born an Englishman. A lady afterwards carried me to the State Paper Office, where I saw interesting documents; among them some private letters characteristic of the firm, purpose-like Washington; and a most touching original note, containing poor André’s request for a soldier’s death, instead of that of the gibbet. The calm, gentlemanly ee ee eee nett eee intent «ling. : circle ited to hands 10ment 1 offer e next a re- nay be > party ih, ouring ’ many hem a h gen- > Czar- at the rted to by Mr. A lady where some se-like | note, death, manly WASHINGTON AND ANDRE. 255 See an writing, without tremor and unmarked by haste— not an unnecessary stroke nor a useless word— takes one into the very heart of the man who wrote it. Washington was deeply moved, but gave no reply. After all, he was right. Though poor André was the victim of that wretch Arnold (who lived only to die a hundred times over under the scorn of Eng- Jand and America), still he was taken in disguise; and since Washington felt that an example had become necessary, he was obliged to condemn André as the Spy, not as the soldier. After our visit to the State department, I went by the request of Miss G: and with her, to see a young lady, in the hope that, by joining my persuasions to Miss G 8, we might induce her to assist some effort for training women, through an improved education, for teachers, In the evening, I accompanied another lady to hear Mr. Marsh’s lecture on Constantinople and the Bosphorus. We met the President and Mrs. Pierce, who were on the platform at the Smithsonian Insti- tution. The lecture was rather commonplace, but the large room was crowded by an intelligent and atten- tive audience. TI‘ is in form and arrangement one of the best lecture-rooms I ever saw. These last three days the weather has been clear and pleasant, but not warmer than in England. January 3.—Mr. Ingersoll took me to see Con- gress in session. I was fortunate in the moment — 256 WASHINGTON, accidentally chosen. After some time spent in hearing a rather confused and noisy debate, there were two good speeches in their several lines, one from a young man, the Californian member—clear, concise, fluent, and business-like; it was about a land commission: the other from Mr. K , of South Carolina—fervid, energetic, argumentative, and eloquent. It must be borne in mind that the terms ‘ Whig’ and ‘ Democrat’ have different mean- ings here to those which they express in England. The American Democrat designates enlightened, con- sistent principles ; the Whig, narrow-minded, bigoted Republicanism. Mr, K ’s speech lasted one hour, without proving tedious or uninstructive. It is im- possible in a few words to do justice either to his eloquence or his reasoning ; but after making a rapid though comprehensive sketch of the present state of parties in this country, he affirmed that in fact there never has been in the world, and never can be, more than two great parties—consisting, one of well- informed liberal men, the other of ignorant bigoted men; that new names and a new organization are only a sign that under old names one of the old parties has become effete. So, at the present mo- ment, the Whigs have apparently disbanded, but in truth they have only reformed, to enlist and to march under the ‘Know-nothing’ banners. They have indeed assumed a most suitable and character- pent in e, there nes, one —-clear, about a —, of sntative, that the it mean- ingland. ied, con- bigoted ne hour, It is im- r to his a rapid nt state in fact can be, of well- bigoted tion are the old ent mo- , but in and to They jaracter- CHARACTER OF THE * KNOW-NOTHINGS.’ 257 istic designation, one which might well have been selected by their Opponents, Socialists in practice, they desire to arm labour against capital; Roman Catholics in principle, they w in lieu of tolerance ; arbitrary would enact white slavery while they profess to do away with black servitude. Falsifying the principles and tearing up the foundations of freedom, ‘ they are,’ said the orator, ‘mutes who would follow the funeral of the Republic,’ Upon the whole I was agreeably surprised with the good speaking and general appearance of Congress ; because I have been told by almost everyone since rica, that I should find a sad lack of talent and political honesty, Respecting the latter quality, of course I am not capable of judging ; but there seems no lack of honest faces, and in manner than I expected. Mr. Ingersoll took me into the Speaker’s private room, where we found Mr. Boyd alone, having been disengaged from the chair by a committee of the ‘whole? (as it is called here), which enables the Spea in his chair, In this ould advocate bigotry in government, they I came to Ame- I find less assumption ker to place a substitute toom I saw the place where President Jackson expired ; it is marked by his bust, Upon my return home, finding Mr. C had called twice, I went to see him at his house, we had an interesting conversati and on upon educational subjects. In the evening J dined with our minister, VOL. I. 8 Sopra err ce SNe RE - —— 258 WASHINGTON, and sat between Secretary Marcy and Mr. Cushing, the Attorney-General. There was a large party of gentlemen, and three ladies besides myself—Mrs. Marcy’s sister (Mrs. French), Miss Marcy, and Mrs. Campbell, wife of the Solicitor-General. Upon returning to Willard’s Hotel, I found the gallery and ladies’ room crowded by visitors, and the mulatto band, as usual, in requisition. I was introduced to Mr. Kietl, the orator of the morning. There are ‘ Know-nothings’ (even feminine ones) among the residents in this hotel. I can easily discover them by their crude, unintelligent style of conversation. Thursday, January 4.—There was a great assem- blage last night in the room underneath mine—a supper of gentlemen for the celebration of some an- niversary ; a band of music, songs, speeches, and vociferous applause. Sleep being out of the ques- tion, I rose at two o’clock, and almost read through Lord Carlisle’s Diary in the Turkish Waters before daylight. .Of course I was gratified at finding our cousin of the Retribution so highly spoken of in it, This morning I was a good deal occupied in arrang- (the only very talented American artist I have yet met with) might have the opportunity to make a drawing of an acquaintance of mine. In the library of the ing a sitting in my own room, that Mrs. § Capitol there is one of the most exquisite miniatures by this lady 1 ever saw. It almost resembles some of Cushing, party of 1f—Mrs. and Mrs. Upon ery and mulatto duced to ‘here are long the ver them sation. it assem- mine—a some an- hes, and the ques- | through rs before ding our of in it. n arrang- —— (the > yet met , drawing ry of the iniatures s some of OCCUPATION oF CONGRESS, 259 Thorburn’s ; but there is so little real appreciation of art in Washington, that I found Mrs, S——_ hardly able to procure employment, crowded as the city is with notabilities from all parts of the Union, Her slight sketches, as well as the more finished minia- tures, are pretty, and her drawing correct 3 yet, excepting a little instruction from some English person when very young, she appears almost wholly self-taught. Lieutenant Maury was so obliging as to call; he gave me a tempting invitation to drink tea with his family at the Observatory, the first evening I see any chance of visible stars, In the afternoon, Mr. and Mrs. Ingersoll took me again to the Capitol. There had been an early adjourn- ment of the Senate, and though Congress was sitting (it was not engaged in business which interested me), a large majority of members were occupied at their desks writing letters, This habit dete. riorates much from the dignity and statesmanlike appearance of the House; and I remember observing the same thing, and making the same remark, in the Chamber of Deputies at Paris, Quebec, and in all the legislative assemblies in which the members, in. stead of being obliged to retire to the lobhies (as in our parliamentary houses) for letter-writing and private business, are accommodated with chairs and tables in the halls, where public affairs only should be transacted. Here members of Congress remain 8 2 Sa cen en ST rial. an ena ot Saray ~ iereanieretiece. Sree i 260 WASHINGTON. half their time, unconscious of what is going for- ward, absorbed in their individual interests, when they ought to be wholly given to those of the public—so that they look more like an assemblage of clerks than of statesmen. To-day, I dined with the President, by the formal invitation of a week. The party consisted of about thirty-two. I sat between Mr. Broadhead and Mr. Ashley, two members of the Senate, who have passed some time in England.. There were a good many ladies, but more gentlemen. The President and Mrs. Pierce sat opposite on each side the table; and I was near the former. The dinner was handsome, and well- arranged in French fashion ; flowers and fruit only on the table, a1.d one dish at a time handed round. In the reception-room there were some splendid white camellias, covered by flowers which I think are larger here than any with us;.great use is made of the fir-uke Lycopodium and the elegant Steevia, in the composition of ornamental bouquets, some of which were placed at the disposal of the ladies. At half-past nine the party broke up, having met at six o’clock. Upon returning to the hotel, I spent the remainder of the evening in pleasant conversation— principally with Miss Cass; she and her father, General Cass, usually reside in this house during the winter. The society in the ladies’ roc m is diversified, and by no means stiff, There are whist-tables, and ing for- ts, when of the emblage ned with a week, I sat ey, two me time lies, but . Pierce was near nd well- ‘uit only d round. splendid chink are made of eevia, in some of ies. At et at six pent the sation— r father, ring the versified, oles, and SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTE. 261 tenant teetcenmenennaieteesecnee—— occasional dancing and music. I never saw any card-playing for money in the United States. Saturday, January 6.—Mrs. Fremont called upon me yesterday morning ; and from her brother-in-law Mr. Jones, I received a large long-shaped acorn, eatable like the Spanish chesnut. It was brought from a mountainous region in California. This and one black as ebony from the same country, I hope to send soon by a private hand to be planted in England. I have a pretty little sleeping tortoise also, the Picta; when Dr. and Mrs. Gray ar- rive, I shall ask them to carry it back to Boston to await my return there. I hope to have this, and a box tortoise from Albany, and a spotted one from Rhode Island, as live specimens of the tortoise families. I spent the chief part of the 5th of January in returning visits, This morning, the 6th, I walked to the Smith- sonian Institute, and got much information about objects of natural history from Professor Baird. Another foggy damp day, quite as thick as any in London, barring the smoke. I have been reading two pamphlets giving opposite views upon the sub. ject of the Smithsonian Institution. A controversy is going on here respecting the distribution of the fund left by our countrymen to found an establish- ment at Washington ‘ For the Increase and Diffusion of Knowledge among Men.’ It would be difficult 262 WASHINGTON. en nents inniienenn to credit the fact, had I not the best authority for it, that the whole annual income, being thirty thou- sand dollars, a vote of Congress decided (appointing Regents to carry its decisions into effect), that ‘a suitable building of sufficient size, with rooms and halls for reception and arrangement, upon a liberal scale, of objects of natural history, geological, mineralogical, and botanical, properly classed and arranged, with a chemical laboratory, lecture-rooms, &c., shall be organized ;? and then assigned a sum not exceeding twenty-five thousand dollars for a library. If this were to be understood as appropriating five parts of the whole income to buying and collecting books, the absurdity of the first provisions would be evident; so the managers (as it appears to me sensibly enough) took advantage of the loop-hole afforded by the words ‘not exceeding,’ and have gone on, to the best of their ability, endeavouring to realize the appa- rent intentions of the founder and of Congress ; and, us far as I can judge, in a reasonable and intelligent manner. Yet a party of men of some talent and ability are bent upon maintaining that a library, and a library only, was to be established. If Mr. Smithson had contemplated this narrow view, he could easily have stated it. I should imagine it was his intention, by ‘A Central Institution for the Diffusion of Knowledge among Men,’ to counteract ority for ‘ty thou- pointing that ‘a ms and a liberal ological, sed and e-rooms, sum not library. ting five ollecting vould be sensibly rded by 1, to the he appa- ss; and, telligent ent and library, If Mr. iew, he e it was for the unteract WOMAN’S MISSION. 263 Sear reat ennai cee ies ge the mercantile and Mammonite spirit which possesses the majority, and open the book of Nature to their comprehension: while by promoting healthier ideas upon education, the crude and absurd opinions too -generally advanced and acted upon, will be amended and counteracted, and an improved and more prac- tical female training will be encouraged. It will no longer be gravely enunciated at an educational convention—‘ That the stimulus which the human heart requires is wanting for women in the present age, and that society gives them nothing to aim at;’ but if so, give them reasonable aims. Let them aim at duty, not notoriety. Let them keep within their appropriate sphere, cultivating sufficient moral courage to act within that sphere for the benefit of their fellow-creatures, and particularly for the advantage of their sex; disciplining and training their own minds to be the educated companions, not the rivals, of men. Let them be the heart-consolcrs, the binders-up of broken spirits, the ‘sisters of the sisterless,’ the presiding geniuses of the social circle. Is that not work enough for them to do? In this country, I hear that ‘though it has no queen, all the women are queens’ 1 should rather call them playthines— -olls ; things treated as if they were unfit or unwiiliig to belp themselves or others: and while we in England have nearly cast aside 264. WASHINGTON. lecithin ee ae arts of the toilet worthy only of dolls, I see here false brows, false bloom,’ false hair, false every- thing !—not always, but too frequently. Dress in America, as an almost general rule, is full of extrava- gance and artificiality ; and while women show such a want of reliance upon their native powers of pleasing, their influence in society will be more nominal than real. Monday, January 8.—This day I made my first appearance at a morning receptiun. Ladies here issue cards or notes, siating they are at home on particular days, when any acquaintances may visit them. This is a pleasant and rational mode of making calls, and appears to me worthy of adoption elsewhere. Mr. Ingersoll was so obliging as to take me to listen to arguments in the Supreme Legal Court, the only tribunal which is competent to settle questions which may arise between States. A counsel spoke so clearly and concisely upon a particular point of law, that he brought it within my comprehen- sion ; the case was, that of the boundary line to be drawn between Georgia and Florida. My friends Dr. and Mrs. Gray have arrived from Cambridge. I dined with them at Professor Henry’s, and went to the Smithsonian Institution to hear the fist of nine lectures on botany by Dr. Gray. Although the morning was fine and clear, rain came on at night ; ee here every- ress in ‘xtrava- yw such vers of > more 1y first e issue ticular This ls, and Mr. sten to e only estions spoke int of rehen- to be riends ridge. ent to f nine h the ight ; CUBA AND HER WRONGs. 265 a nciiaililaasiana teeta at and since Lieutenant Maury’s invitation to the Observatory, the weather has for its acceptance. Tuesday, January 9.—Cloudy and damp. I went with an agreeable Cuban gentleman, Mr. | , to & morning reception at Mrs, P ’s, and then he took me to see some pictures at the Capitol, which are to be disposed of by raffle. One, St. Thomas giving Charity (by a pupil of Murillo’s, touched by the master), is an interesting picture ; the others I did not admire. The absence of any positive news from England is very trying, and the details brought by the former mail most afflicting ; still, however saddening, no English person can despair of the ultimate success of heroism and civiliza cruelty and barbarism. I have become well acquainted with so sant intelligent Cuban families here, accounts make me feel it impossible not to wish that their fine island should be more free, mis- governed and pillaged as it is by its present masters ; and not being very far from the American shores, I wish America could purchase it: the case would be analogous to that policy of Mr, Pitt, by which the Crown of England took possession of the little kingdom of Man 3 and with respect to which our family had only the choice of accept afforded no opportunity tion against me plea- and their ing a certain 266 WASHINGTON. sum, or of having it seized by the law of the strongest. The mines alone in the last mentioned island now produce more than the interest of the money. Wednesday, January 9.—LULast night I attended an evening party, which included all the notabilities of Washington. It was much like a crowded assembly in London, except that I thought there was more amusement ; because the Washington party consisted of a reunion of people who, though under the same government, reside thousands of miles apart. There I received invitations from the South and the North, the East and the West, and fully mean to avail myself of some of them. I was given avery hospitable one, to visit a member of Congress who resides upon the Mississippi, not an impracticable distance from the Falls of St. Anthony. Some of the invitations are to Mexico, Texas, and California; not forgetting the Salt Lake, in consequence of an introduction to the Mormon delegate—a gentlemanly, respectable-looking old man with a bald head. I did not inquire if he has twelve wives; but an amusing account has been given me with regard to the domestic arrangements of that strange people. It seems that when the first wife wants help in the household, she petitions her husband to take another spouse—a good cook or a dairywoman for instance, or a sempstress— of the ntioned t of the nded an lities of ssembly is more onsisted he same There > North, il myself ible one, pon the rom the ions are ting the 1 to the -looking re if he 1as been gements the first petitions od cook stress— A QUESTIONABLE ALTERNATIVE. 267 80 one wife is housekeeper, another has the cooking department, a third manages the nursery, and so forth ; and as there is no small difficulty in getting good servants in the United States, this matrimonial plan ensures a more permanent and better ordered household than could be attained without it. I am informed that the domestic troubles of a wife in the United States are such that, unless she resides in the slave countries, she thinks it far more convenient to be first wife, with half-a-dozen subordinate ones, than to be sole darling with the disadvantages of saucy Servants and the discomfort of bad dinners ; so that, in fact, Republicanism, and an unnatural attempt at equality, has caused a return to the terrible evils of polygamy. What a curious result. I hope this strange custom will not spread over the Union ! January 11.—I spent three hours in Congress yes- terday hoping to hear Mr. C speak about the ‘Know-nothings;’ the house was taken up by a hot dis- cussion upon the question of foreigners receiving im.. mediate grants of land, with an understanding that the franchise will become theirs at the termination of five years, which is the present law. This of course bore upon the ‘ Know-nothing’ ground, and it is sad to see how deeply a secret society, handed together upon exclusive, illiberal, and arbitrary principles, has taken root in the free soil of America. In conversation, 268 WASHINGTON. eel iain es tcl it is easy to judge whether individuals are in their hearts favourable to such views; and every day makes me think the ramifications of the conspiracy have extended to a depth and a distance about which I was for a time incredulous, There is much reason to fear this irrational party may have power enough to carry the presidential chair: ifso, I really think the ‘mutes’ may get their black trappings prepared to-morrow for the funeral of the Republic ——a catastrophe prophesied by the member of South Carolina; and I fear those obsequies may not only be wept in sackcloth and ashes, but that they may be followed by a civil war. There seems a dearth of strong men in the Union—men capable of taking the lead, and sufficiently patriotic to sacrifice their own present personal interest to the public weal. I observe a’ sad spirit of corruption and of self-seeking among the younger men; and I also see that fear and doubt are shaking the spirits of the elder and wiser people. No one seems even to guess what will come out of the fermenting process which the commonest observer must see at work. The lees have risen to the surface ; whether they will sink again to the bottom of the political caldron without poisoning the life-blood of this world- wide community, is the question seldom uttered, but deeply seated in the minds of honest and n their ry day spiracy about s much power [ really ippings epublic ’ South ay not it that : seems able of acrifice public and of Iso see of the ven to process - work, ey will -aldron world- ittered, st and A POSTULATE. 269 thoughtful persons, I doubt whether this mental conflict here is not more alarming than the external and physical war the Allies have to wage against the barbarism of t! North, inasmuch as open enmity et contention ; the known foe can uered, but a concealed antagonist ef upon unconscious victims, is better than secr be met and conq effects his mischi Yours affectionately, A. M. M, EX %. wo Xa >, % 7. ” f e | oe Kor Sw | \: VW IMAGE EVALUATION & : TEST TARGET (MT-3) | io, gu & == 5H iz | | AE lie ye | U2 TS tg | ee | | > dy we yy, , : » S f Y “& a YN 7 Photographic a a” ¢ (Mids “amr “+ Corporation LETTER XvL Wasnineron, January 12, 1855. My pzar Frienps,— I went yesterday, with Mrs. Seymour and Mrs. Cristobel de Madan, t Roman Catholic member, Congress, for the purpose of repudiating and denying the accusation brought against his co-religionists by Mr. Banks of Massachusetts (one of the advocates of the ‘ Know-nothing? conspiracy), which asserted that they, the Roman Catholics, acknowledge a tem. poral jurisdiction in the Papacy. The House was at first occupied by a motion, made by some mem- ber from the South, for increasing the allowance to foreign ministers, He said, the salaries given are so meagre, that it is difficult to induce men of talent and experience to undertake missions, and therefore the affairs of the States (in Europe) are embroiled and mismanaged by a set of inferior diplomatists, IT am not enough acquainted with the pulse of the 272 PAPAL JURISDICTION. American Congress to judge how this proposition was received ; but the intense and respectful attention afforded to Mr. Chandler I thought a good sign of generous and tolerant feeling; and this makes me hope that there is still freedom and impartiality enough in the Union to counteract the narrow and inconsistent opinions of Republican bigotry. Mr. Chandler’s address was good, both in manner and matter: it was well worded, calm, logical, and frank. He affirmed most solemnly, that so far from believing any right could be assumed by the Bishops of Rome touching upon political allegiance, he and all other good Catholics consider the spiritual rule, which they willingly admit, as quite distinct from the tem. poral: although history shows that temporal rule has been exercised by Roman pontiffs, it was not derived from the Church itself, but from the Catholic princes of Europe, who chose to delegate undue power to the Popes of those times, ‘And if) said Mr. Chandler, ‘ the Bishops of Rome should now, or at any future time, invade the territory ~.’ this Republic, or of any other Protestant sovereignty, Roman Catholics would consider themselves bound by every principle, divine or human, to oppose and repel such an assumption of temporal power.’ The Governor, Mrs. Seymour, and I dined together at the house of Governor Hamilton Fish, Mr. Seymour’s predecessor in the government of New York State, I had a ee on was ention’ sign of e hope igh in sistent idler’s er: it He ieving Rome other which tem. l rule 1s not tholic indue ” said , or at ublic, oman every such nor, ise of eSSOr lad a EXTINCTION OF THE TRIBES. 273 great deal of conversation with him, and with another old gentleman, upon the present state and future prospects of free slaves, They were both of opinion that some inherent difference of race is the cause that the black people die out and become extinct in one or two generations after the attainment of free- dom and of amalgamation with whites. This seems to be a universal law. Mr. Fish told me that, in his experience, it has worked so rapidly, that his family having about fifty years ago freed their negroes, though at the same time allowing them aclaim for aid and future protection—letting them have the cottages and the ground to which they had been accustomed—still, under these advanta- geous circumstances, they have gradually dwindled away ; and though Governor Fish considers the rem- nant almost as belonging to his own family, and they apply to him for advice and help upon all occasions, yet not above five or six individuals are existing, and no one of them younger than sixty. I accompanied some friends to the evening reception of Mrs. Marcy, which was well attended, although many other houses were also open for parties. Friday, 12th.—A fine clear day. Mrs. Hamilton Fish took Mrs. Seymour and mea drive to the heights of George Town ; and we also called on Mrs, Maury at the Observatory. It is in a beautiful situation, commanding the city of Washington, and also long VOL. I. T 274 PRESIDENTIAL EVENING. reaches of the Potomac each way. Lieutenant Maury took us up to the roof of the building, and we are to have the pleasure of a visit to his observatory next week, if the stars will be favourable. I drank tea out with Mr. and Mrs. Seymour, and afterwards accompanied their party to the Presidential evening levee (as the word is here pronounced), to which all classes decently attired are admitted. We found two rooms crowded, but the company perfectly well conducted and orderly. In general aspect, I was reminded of an entertainment given by a London City Lord Mayor in the Guildhall. We returned to the hotel by eleven o’clock. January 13.—I received a file of Times news- papers to the 23rd of last month, and sat up nearly all night to read them. Sad and heart-breaking de- tails ; and in the paper of latest date, an article levelled against the Ministry and all the employés in the East, so bitter and vituperative in style, and 80 sweeping in accusation, that it tells more against the writers than in condemnation of those written against. In this house I have made the acquaintance of three distinguished Generals of the Republic— Scott, Cass, and Houston—all massive-looking, sol- dier-like men. After a fine morning the afternoon proved wet, so that I could not sketch or go to the Observatory ; but Mrs. Fish was so kind as to take me out to pay visits. After dinner, there was an Maury we are rvatory - drank srwards vening lich all found ly well I was 4ondon turned news- nearly ng de- article wployés e, and gainst ritten ntance blic— z, sol. noon io the ) take as an MORMON DOMESTICITY, 275 evening assembly and dancing for the young people, T was introduced to an interesting family, natives of New Orleans, They spoke English, but with some accent, their own tongue being French 3 but I much prefer our language a little broken to the broad and often nasal pronunciation of New England and New York. The Southern people have pleasing voices, and are much less provincial in their Speech than those of the Northern States. Sunday, January 14.—A blind minister preached yesterday at the Congress chapel. I should have heard him, but the service was earlier than I expected, so when I reached Professor Henry’s, Dr. and Mrs, Gray were gone. A cold clear day, but no signs of ice. Last night I saw a very interesting set of drawings of California and the Rocky Mountains, belonging to a gentleman who has been much in the Far West. He confirmed my deductions about the Mormonite domestic polity, having frequently con- versed with the women of that State. The ladies are not shut up in idleness like those of Eastern harems, but live happily together, because they are too busy to quarrel. One woman told hin—* We agree well: sister Dolly has the cows ; sister Jenny, the children ; sister Betty, the kitchen ; and so on— all have plenty todo: and our husband is bound by law to support and take equal care of us; and then we are so Hell-bent on Heaven? Is it not T2 | sh sical Ah te i ai amigo 276 OFFERS OF MARRIAGE. evident, slavery or polygamy is the product of an _ unnatural attempt after equality ? I shall certainly return to England more strongly imbued with attachment to our orderly institutions. R has had offers of marriage in America; but she says, ‘No, I will never marry here—not even if I could have the very President himself. Why, in England I may have my own station, and I’m content; but in America I should never know what I was.’ I find many charming people, a great deal that is interesting, and much that is instructive, in the United States ; but it appears to me that only the fear of starvation would induce an English man or woman to fix them- selves for life in America. ‘In whatever state of life you are, therewith to be content,’ is a lesson which can hardly be learned this side the Atlantic. January 16.—I walked up early yesterday to call upon Dr. and Mrs. B ; he and Mr. W brought me back, and Mrs. Fish was again so kind as to come and convey me to sketch on the George Town heights. And then she waited in the carriage while I paid a visit to the British Minister, who is confined to his house owing to the consequences of an accident. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour and I had a pleasant dinner at Mr. and Mrs. Taloe’s, where we met General Scott, the Mexican and French Minister, and attaché, Judge Drew, and other acquaintances. At this house is one of the prettiest Carlo Dolces I | of an rtainly | with — has > says, could ngland t; but I find esting, states ; rvation them- fate of which to call WV o kind yeorge arriage who is aces of had a re we nister, ances, dlces I CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SOUTH. 277 ee ever saw. It once belonged to the Duchesse de Berri.. On our return, Mr. Blake, the geologist, showed us beautifully crystallized and other speci- mens of Californian gold, and gave me some dust of Cuban iron pyrites as brilliant as diamonds, January 17.—Directly after breakfast yesterday, I walked up to the Observatory, and spent two hours sketching from its roof. The views are fine every way, particularly up the Potomac towards that large aqueduct which carries a canal across to George Town. I saw Lieutenant Maury, and agreed with him that, as my travels must be pursued on the 18th as far as Richmond, Wednesday evening (stars or no stars) we must spend at the Observatory. I came home in time to dress for a wedding, when I found a pretty bride and a cheerful party ; but according to custom in the reception-rooms of this country, they were so darkened that I should rather have supposed the assembly gathered together for a funeral than a wedding. I saw a great deal of beauty, although of one particular type. Proceeding to- wards the South, I find the manners soften as well as the voice, more frankness and cheerfulness, the rather stiff formality of the Northern States is re. placed by ease, and at the same time the young people are merry without being boisterous, and no one ob- jects to those games and amusements which the spirit of the puritanical times has handed down as 278 AMERICAN INDIFFERENCE. +e tbs etnnshnginesininiitennsinn ictus ies ieee crimes to be cast aside by their New England de- scendants. So oftentimes those good people are bored for want of innocent relaxation, and the elderly prefer staying by their own firesides to falling asleep in public for want of occupation. There is certainly an odd mixture of the ‘ go-ahead’ and the indolent among our American cousins, which is exemplified in the saying, that such a man ‘ is running a sleepy race,’ which means that his adherents are pushing him forward for election to some office, while the candidate himself remains in a state of somnolent indifference’ to the result. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour took me to a place which has been called Calametta, from its beautiful and sunny view of the Potomac, &c. We found it a pleasant, comfortable house, with bright-coloured peacocks walking about in the wood surrounding it. I dined at the Secretary of State’s with a large number of diplomatic gentlemen, and only four ladies besides myself. The French Minister sat by Mrs. Marcy, and I had Mr. Marcy on one side and the Spanish Minister on the other. The dinner could not be otherwise than agreeable. The Secretary is a remarkably frank, agreeable old man, and I was not afraid to joke him a little about his republican aversion to court dresses. I found out the whole secret afterwards. In his drawing-room there is an interesting picture, painted in the time of Louis XVI., of the King and Queen sitting in their and de- ple are elderly x asleep ertainly ndolent mplified | sleepy pushing hile the nnolent eymour ametta, tomac, se, with e wood State’s en, and linister on one The The d man, out his nd out 7-room time of n their BENJAMIN FRANKLIN. 279 =+ir}crssteereeomeeneeinssionssniiatietiinebiesipenisinnsnineasins- sie ssa circle, while some gay ladies of the Court crown Benjamin Franklin with a wreath of laurel. Franklin is uncontaminated by any attire more gay than his Quaker-like looking habiliments (though it seems he was occasionally seduced into a court dress, for a velvet one belonging to him is still preserved), and I guess the ladies around him were not without a little sly triumph of their own on the occasion which gave rise to the picture ; but it is evident to me that scene was not one of a public reception, for no gentleman is present excepting the King. Secretary, Marcy was (I think) sentimentally led astray in his crusade against European finery by this picture. I don’t the least believe (an accusation I have heard here) that his motive was to curry favour with the American public, who may imagine an ugly coat and repub- licanism synonymous terms. He is a downright honest man, if ever I saw one 3 and with all his talents and knowledge of the American world, upon the subject of European dress, he was much more likely to err from simplicity than design. My neighbour on the other side could only express him- self in French and Spanish, and as the Secretary confines himself to plain English as well as plain coats, the Spanish Minister is frequently obliged ‘to have recourse to an interpreter, which, in a delicate diplomatic conference, he thinks is inconvenient. I was introduced to the Dutch Minister, who ee cma - : a tn niet ce an nd ee 280 RICHMOND. f-secure speaks English like a native. The Prussian looked quiet and neutral ; the French, anxious and incredu- lous. Mr. Crampton was prevented by his accident from joining the party, a circumstance generally re- gretted, for no one is more popular in the diplomatic circle. None of the second grade were present— only Ministers and their attachés, Mr. Marcy told me he could not receive the whole corps together, and therefore he takes the first rank with their be- longings at one dinner, and others separate. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour, having dined elsewhere, came to take me home, and joined the party for a short time. Richmond, Virginia, January 18.—I have just arrived at this place; but, before writing of our jour- ney here, the conclusion of my stay at Washington must be told. Wednesday, I breakfasted with Dr. and Mrs. B , my friends of the White Mountains, The Judge and Mrs. Maclean, and Mr. P. » &member of Congress, were of the party—it was very pleasant, Mrs. Maclean walked back with me as far as Pro- fessor Henry’s, where I went to see Dr. and Mrs. Gray; and, before going home, I had to go to Mrs. S——, the artist. She has made a slight sketch of Longfellow for me. On my return to the hotel, I had much to do; separating ward- robe, books, and natural history accumulations, to be forwarded to Boston : my acquisitions increase like - 0ked redu- ‘ident ly ree matic snt— ' told ther, r be- Mr. ne to short just jour- gton _ and The nber sant, Pro- Mrs. » to ight 1 to ard- » to like . THE OBSERVATORY, 281 Secure a rolling snow-ball ; and, from all the principal stopping-places during my travels, I send off packages to Mr. L——’s care. At Washington, bouquets are general in full costume ; they are always made up by the gardeners, but hardly ever consist of any other flowers than Camelias, Canarinas, Heliotropes, Steevias, and violets, with the berries of Ardisia crenulata, and the feathery foliage of Lycopodium dendroides, I received two beautiful ones this after. noon from gentlemen; a sweet bunch of geranium and Neapolitan violets was given me by a young Cuban lady; and I had a white Camelia, also, from Miss Seymour. Mrs, Seymour dined at home with me, and at six o’clock Mrs, Fish called, to convey us to the Observatory, accompanied by Judge Drew and Mr. Miller. The stars shone brightly—the finest show of them I have yet seen in America. Lieu- tenant Maury took us up to the telescope directly on our arrival. We had a good view of a spangled bit of sky in Perseus, not visible to the naked eye, Sirius appeared like a tuft of blue, red, and gold feathers, waving in the heavens 3 Saturn’s globe and ring perfectly clear and distinct 3 and the belt and five geometrical-looking stars of Orion very bright. After our eyes and minds were fatigued by these marvels, we went in to drink tea with Mrs, Maury, and then returned to town to attend Mr. Guthrie’s reception, where I took leave of the Grays, the Bas 2 eee Sa Sg i eth 282 RAILROAD COMPANIONS. Quaker lady of Philadelphia, General. Scott, Mr. Maury, and many others who have been kind to me at Washington. We returned home to the dancing-party at Willard’s, and found it crowded. I said good-bye to many friends there; and, upon getting up at six next morning to depart, I found Mr. P——- and Mr. M——-, both ready to see us safe on board the steamer; they accompanied us to the Potomac; it was quite dark, and their company was very cheering. A fine sunrise on the magni- ficent river, end after a very calm and successful passage of fifty-five miles, we found the railroad cars at Acquia Creek : the distance to Richmond was about seventy miles; weather continued bright, warm, and sunshiny. I felt the influence of a southern atmo- sphere, and the journey would have been pleasant if 1 had had pleasanter neighbours in the car; but just before me was a being who called himself the American Dwarf: he was about two feet high, with fin-like hands, and a head nearly as large as his contorted body ; and, ov my right « negro woman, in face resembling an ourang-outang, who gloried im a fancy straw bonnet, trimmed with white, had artificial roses surrounding her black muzzle. She became dreadfully sea, or rather rail-sick, and my window being open, although there was another on her side, she constantly lecned across me to take possession of mine; at last a gentlemaaly-looking UNPLEA~ANT INCIDENTS. 283 Bigcheese ac oP me Oa NS young man, who I conclude was her master, came to my rescue, and throwing open a window behind, he said a few words which made her keep to her own locality. This improved my immediate circumstances ; but ina few minutes afterwards we were brought toa standstill, and looking out, saw a dreadful accident, Either from intoxicatioa or insanity, a fine-looking young man, apparently not more than twenty-three, had placed himself. on the rail just at a curve, sd that the engineer had no time to pull up, though he did his best ; the poor wretch was cut in two, and expired immediately. All the people evinced great feeling . and kindness; the corpse of the poor stranger was taken up, and we proceeded. I found the Exchange a comfortable hotel, and the sister of Dr, Gibson, of Baltimore, soon came to me with her married daugliter : they took me to their home, and I passed a pleasant evening, Mr, J being so kind as to walk back at night with me through the still and unfrequented streets, There was hardly a sound until that usual occurrence, a peal of fire- bells, broke the quiet. I have never he town in the United States without alarms. At Richmond it is not unco two or three fires a night, and th the work of incendiaries ; en in any hearing such mmon to have ese fires are usually wooden houses are so easily set in a blaze, that boys for mischief, and thieves for plunder, slily ignite them. 284 STATUE OF WASHINGTON. Se ee nechebinr eesti cer dito win decnelionincstaciounasenoutostaubcchusiact January 20.—I saw a great deal of this pretty town ; if it had the castle and the ancient buildings of Edinburgh, it would resemble that city, the Powhattan River taking the place of the Forth. Mrs. J. took us across the valley to sketch to- wards the east, and I made a drawing of the loca- lity round Washington’s monument, the various steeples, towers, &c., with the Capitol, a pleasing Grecian building, capping and overlooking the city, and the surrounding country. Under the centre of the dome, inside that building, I saw the best statue of Washington in the whole Union, by Houdier : it is said to be a good likeness, and, as a work of art, it is most interesting. I could not have believed that the stiff costume of that time could have been so idealized. The General stands in an easy attitude, leaning upon a bunch of fascines—the very buttons on his coat, and the high top-boots, &. &c., are all indicated, and yet there is no lack of grace, no appearance of formality, in this very fine statue. Strange to say, an air of neglect and dilapidation is visible all around it; the interior of the building is sadly out of repair ; the doors want paint, and all is dirty and quite unworthy of the best public building in the State of Virginia, the House of Legislature and of business. Perhaps a few years will dissipate financial difficulties, which have been brought on by an extravagant railway expenditure; it will, pro- retty dings the ‘orth. h to- loca- rious asing city, re of ue of it is rt, it that Nn so tude, ttons e all , no atue. on is ig is ull is ding iture pate n by pro- GENERAL DILAPIDATION, 285 bably, repay the citizens in due time, and then they may be enabled to wipe off the disgrace of shabbi- ness which at present hangs over their proceedings, Mrs. G called for a handsome agreeable lady, who accompanied us during the rest of our drive. They took me to the Cemetery, beautifully situated, and from thence I made a general sketch of Richmond, with its crowning Capitol, Pow- hattan River (undignified by the modern name of James), and a foreground of better trees than I had yet, seen in America. In this place are many pretty hollies, with red berries like ours, but with leaves opaque instead of shining; and before going home we called at a nursery-ground, where there was nothing new to me, excepting a shrub which, though now leafless, has bunches of small lilac berries. The gentleman did not know what country it came from, or the tribe to which it belongs. Indeed, he told me, so little interest is shown for flowers in this part of the world, that since he came here from Scotland, he has rather lost than gained in botanical and floral accquirement. I declined an invitation to dine at three o’clock 3 such early hours at this time of year shorten the already shortened days. After returning to the hotel for the purpose of writing to Washington, I made my way alone across the river by a very long wooden bridge. On the other side I passed voluminous houses, 286 CHARLOTTESVILLE. which I was told were flour and cotton mills ; beyond them the view of Richmond was fine. A brilliant sunset reminded me that there is little twilight here, and so I feared that I should hardly find my way in the dark to Mrs. G: ’s, where tea awaited me. After some wanderings I reached her house before a very young moon had disappeared, and from thence I joined a small party at Mrs, M. 8, January 21.—Our cars left Richmond at seven this morning, and the sun rose so red that I fear he promises rain. We reached Charlottesville soon after twelve, and passed through a very pretty country, which requires nothing but animal life and industry to make it charming. The absence of fencing to the railroads at once speaks of scanty flocks and herds; for, if these were not few and far between, the owners would insist upon precautionary measures. As it is, cows and sheep are occasionally killed by the trains; but when not more than fifty beasts can be seen in as many miles, the risk is not great. To-day we passed along a rolling* district, affording every promise of a grateful return to energetic and industrious cultivation. Yet I saw ploughs worked by a single horse, which did little more than scratch the surface, and a rich soil * The common expression in America for an undulating country. THE UNIVERSITY, 287 beneath was only brought to light by the course of the railroad. Passing rapidly along, I observed much iron sand, excellent slate, volcanic rocks, gneiss, greenstone, quartz, plenty of water, a natural growth of oak and chestnut, and I have little doubt but that mineral riches are below. An English farmer who could bring free labour with him here might quickly make his fortune. The slave servants look generally well clothed, merry, and content ; but of farm labour they have evidently but small know- ledge; and a general population, either white or black, seems scanty. Upon arriving at the small town of Charlottesville, I was Sorry to find that Mr. Stevenson, our former Minister in England, was absent from his house, a few miles distant. At the University, however, I was most kindly welcomed by the Professor and Mrs. Minor 3 he and Professor Maupin showed me the buildings, and an extensive view from the roof of the dome. This educational establishment was founded by Jefferson. Tt is ruled by nine trustees, who are newly appointed every four years by the incoming President of the United States; and it has this peculiarity—that the governing head of the institution is changed every two years. There is no professor of Natural History in any of its branches, and no teacher of Chemistry, either agricultural or medirul ; So that one cannot much wonder that ignorance xespecting the 288 ROAD TO STAUNTON. soils and the mineral riches of this State should be evident, even to an unpractised eye. We slept at a clean and reasonable hotel; I walked up in a heavy shower of rain, through red mud (much like that of Torquay in Devonshire), to the college, for the purpose of taking leave, and got into the cars by twelve o’clock. After about fifty miles’ journey, pass- ing over mountains consisting of gneiss, greenstone, slaty rocks, and limestone, we reached Staunton by a wonderful line of road: the last part was en- gineered up, and ploughed like a deep furrow along the side of a mountain, to the very summit, and then down again to the plain below. The making of this line was ordered and superintended by the same German engineer who planned and is erecting the suspension bridge from one shore of Niagara to the other, with a passage for railroad cars above the carriage road. From what I saw to-day, my faith in the success of that bridge is almost undoubt- ing. We find the Virginian Hotel here comfortable, and the country we came through to-day must be very picturesque; but rain and fog prevented our seeing more than half a mile from the cars. Staunton is rather a pretty town: as we entered, I saw a handsome building for an asylum for the blind, and I was told there are several other large charitable establishments. January 22.—Violent rain, storm, and wind ————— ld be slept up in h like re, for irs by , pass- stone, unton iS en- along t, and aking vy the ecting ara to above y, my loubt- table, ust be 1 our cars. ed, I blind, itable wind LEXINGTON. 289 during the night. We got up to proceed by the mail stage, which started at five o’clock, more punctually than is usual in America; and the bills here and at Charlottesville were fair and reasonable— not a third of what we have paid elsewhere. The charges have varied from two dollars to eight dollars a day ; they are never more reasonable than in some parts of England, sometimes dearer than the hotels of London and Paris, With four horses, and only four persons in the coach, we did not reach Lexington till after one o’clock. At first, the master of the tavern made some difficulty about procuring US @ Carriage to go on seventeen miles to the Natural Bridge ; but, after a little demur, to start by half-past two, town, not very picturesque in itself, but standing in a plain with fine mountains all round at a few miles’ distance—the nearest, a flat-topped massive-looking hill, is called by people here “ The House.” There are no Indians in all this part of the country, and even their beautiful names have been forgotten, and have given place to such Cockney appellations as James River, Louisa Court, Charlottesville, &e. &e. There were many signs of hard frost on the road, which was tolerable as far as Buchanan ; planks were laid for that distance, When we turned off into the valley, about four miles from the rocky bridge, our carriage was much tried; the horses floundered VOL, 1, U we got one so as Lexington is a small 290 PERILS ON THE ROAD. feel place in at fon. ngton sixty vhich ducts many have , and Vhen into the it as and and hole t of MR. CUSHING ON THE WAR. 297 Hampshire and the adjoining bit of Dorset. The sand during the greater part of the way is as white as that around Bournemouth, Not far from a place called Goldsborough, a colony of Irish appear to be comfortably settling themselves; what they culti- vate I cannot judge, passing rapidly, at this time of year ; they seemed healthy and well clothed ; and I observed pigs of all ages, and several cows. It was a pleasant sight to see these poor people making the wilderness a springing well, and the barren land rich. I should like to bring all the < Know-nothings’ of the country to look at them. I am told this faction abounds in the South ; it is evident there are men guiding this movement who ought to know better ; but some are making political profit of the ignorance and mistaken patriotism of their weaker neighbours, and hope to attain power by such means. I am sorry io find a considerable party in the United States advocate openly the prin- ciple of ‘doing evil that good may come,’ ag regards their own country; and Mr, Cushing, the Attorney-General of the States, informed me without circumlocution, speaking of the European war, that the Turks being effete, and a sea-bourd being neces- sary for the Russians, it was perfectly right and Proper that the latter should devour the former, If it be possible for republicans to be in the pay of despotism, I should imagine this gentleman must 298 SUPERIOR CULTIVATION. ‘eyestrain nines ca sig be one of the favoured emissaries of the Emperor Nicolas. After passing through the rich, ill-culti- vated Highlands of Virginia, it is curious to observe: how much more is comparatively drawn from the unthankful soil we passed through to-day ; half this care and industry bestowed upon the former would be returned tenfold. I observed some few Rhodo- dendrons and Kalmias upon the blue ridge, as we descended by that wonderful railroad; and for fifty miles, as we approached this place, the undergrowth was rich in all those showy evergreens we call American. On the trees I saw bunches of an Epiphyte, growing like our mistletoe, and the long hair-like lichen, or parasitical plant, I have so often heard described as clothing the woods in the South ; it covered and hung round many trees I saw in a swamp this afternoon, I am much amused with the ‘ Blackies,’ who act as chambermaids every- where now; they quite take possession of us, remain in the room sans ceremonie, and are officious and curious beyond belief. One watched me draw- ing to-night with great astonishment; she-said she had ‘never seen any one do that before ; how can you make marks that look like places? You must have a clever head!’ I begged for snuffers, a tallow candle having along nose. ‘ Oh, I does that with my fingers ; but [’ll find you an old pair of scissors,’ When we asked for some warm water, she thought operor -culti- bserve m the if this would shodo- as we r fifty rowth > call f an long 7e 80 n the I saw nused very- f us, icilous lraw- | she vy can must allow with sors.’ ught BLACK SERVANTS. 299 the request very extraordinary, and burst into a. hoarse laugh. They certainly are very unlike the white race; but everybody seems good-natured to them ; they come into the cars and sit where they please. I see none of the white exclusiveness I had been taught to expect, Yours affectionately, A. M. M. SEALY LETTER XVII. CHarcestown, January 4, 1855, My Dear Friznps,— The post for England went off to-day unex- pectedly ; I had only a few minutes’ warning, and no time to look at my letter, so that I forget whether I wrote last from Petersburg ; but as we reached Wilmington too late at night, and started too early to see anything of that place, I could not have said much about it. White sand and pine barrens made up the whole two hundred and sixty miles of yesterday’s journey. It required twenty- two hours’ railroad to accomplish that distance: Almost all the pitch pines are disfigured, and most probably will be killed, by the bark being stripped off, that the turpentine may drip from it into a small vessel placed on the ground. The forest looks as if it was planted with white posts; but this is occasionally relieved by thickets of Rhododendron, Kalmia, and Phyllerea, which must be splendid when flowering, in May ; and about sixty miles from this place the 302 MASTERS AND SLAVES. riper reteescentereseniinsintpniomnesieeniet pitch is superseded by the Pinus palustris, It vig pretty to see the long tassel-like looking leaves streaming in the wind; but it makes a very trans- parent looking forest, as the branches grow wide apart, and the bunches of foliage are also distant from each other, I begin to mark cotton planta- tions, and my compassionate feelings are rapidly changing sides. It appears to me, our benevolent intentions in England have taken a mistaken direc- tion, and that we should bestow our compassion on the masters instead of on the slaves, The former by no means enjoy the incubus with which circum- stances have loaded them, and would be only too happy if they could supersede this black labour by white ; but as to the negroes, they are the merriest, most contented set of people I ever saw: of course there are exceptions, but I am inclined to suspect that we have as much vice, and more suffering, than is caused here by the unfortunate institution of Slavery ; and I very much doubt if freedom will ever make the black population, in the mass, anything more than a set of grown-up children. Even as to the matter of purchase and sale, it is disliked by masters; and I find compassion very much wasted upon the objects of it. An old lady died here lately, and her negroes were to be parted with; Mrs. § F an acquaintance of mine, knew these blacks, and shed tears about their change of fate; but when $$. It is leaves rans- wide istant anta- pidly olent lirec- mn on rmer cum- ’ too r by ‘lest, urse pect than 1 of ever hing 3 to _ by sted ely, 3 and hen ‘ UNCLE TOM’S CABIN,’ 393 they came to market, and she found all 80 gay and indifferent about it, she could not help feeling her Sorrow was greatly thrown away. Mrs. Stowe’s Topsy is a perfect illustration of Darkie’s character, and many of the sad histories of which her book is made up may be true aa isolated facts ; but yet I feel sure that, as a whole, the gs geniously worked up, upon the slaveholders tory, however in. is an unfair picture ; a libel as a body. I very much doubt often be found in the if such a being is, or was, a Shakspeare among whites, the fitness of things, wintry weather here ; an for a better fire in my room, in the Civilest, most anxious tone, he asked whether I would not like some iced water? (Knowing this to be a luxury in hot weather, he would never consider that it might be less acceptable in cold.) We have lately had black chambermaids in all hotels. They are per- fectly good-natured, and Officiously anxious to help us in all matters in which their assistance is not re- quired. ‘Let I do this, Missus,’ and ‘ Let I do that,’ when perhaps it is hard to induce th is really wanted—to light the fire w or to bring a little warm water w em to do what hen we are cold, hen clean hands 304. DARKIES AS NURSES, crys e rntunsnneinieguinma would be a luxury. They fairly take possession of us, and unless we lock them out, they stand to watch our proceedings, and curiously to inspect our things. ‘ Adeline,’ at Lynchberg, saw my sketch of the black cook on board the Links canal boat, at which she burst into a loud laugh, and exclaimed, ‘ He very like a monkey, missus—we very like monkies.’ And she appeared delighted with her own wit—not at all hurt by the idea. A pretty Southern lady arrived at the hotel, with a fair infant in the arms of his black nurse. I came out from the tea-room rather sooner than was expected, and found all the Darkies that could get away assembled round the tiny massa (they are very fond of children, and make capital nurses— tender, watchful, playful, and yet, I think, firm ; but they are firm only with children),jumping and scream. ing their delight. Upon seeing me an elderly man came forward, with a grin and a bow—‘ The black population are only enjoying themselves, missus. I said I was glad they were happy, and left them to their happiness. At one of the railroad stations I watched a young and intelligent-looking black man, consider- ably beyond boyhood, perseveringly keeping up a kind of Highland trot over a number of small pitch barrels with all the zest of a white child from four to six years of age. I begin to doubt whether they ever grow mentally after twenty. They are preco- cious children, being so imitative ; they soon ripen, sion of watch things. 2 black ch she e very ’ And ; at all ived at 3 black sooner 3 that . (they rses— 3 but NORTH AND gouty. 305 come to a standstill, and advance no farther, In this respect Uncle Tom is a myth, but Topsy a reality. I mean to go and see a sale of slaves ; my wish is to judge the subject fairly in all its bearings, and this I may be trusted to do even by Abolition. ists ; for early prejudices and my national and ac. quired feelings are certainly opposed to slavery ; but if countenances are ‘a history as well as a prophecy,’ the national expression of faces in the North as contrasted with those of the South tell a strange, and to me an unexpected story, as regards the greatest happiness principle of the greatest number! Of course, it must be borne in mind that no rules are without exception ; but, oh, the haggard, anxious, melancholy, restless, sickly, hopeless faces I have seen in the Northern States—in the rail-cars, on the steamboats, in the saloons, and particularly in the ladies’ parlour. There is beauty of feature and com- plexion with hardly any individuality of character. Nothing like simplicity, even among children after ten years of age—hot-house, forced, impetuous beings, the almighty dollars, the incentive and only guide to activity and appreciation. Women care that their husbands should gain gold, that they may spend it in dress and ostentation ; and the men like that their wives should appear as queens, whether they rule well, or ill, or at all; yet it is certain that I have made the acquaintance, and that I value the VOL. 1 x PIO O WRN ame 306 NORTH AND SOUTH. , and ly the art of ontrol 1d be- es, as ouses ; and se in rday, of a find Ithy- rank, |; he for strength to overcome, EARLY SELF-RELIANCE, stood by my seat, and afterwards conversed freely, yet without conceit or forwardness, elicited that his parents are Bavarian, residing at no great distance from Munich ; that at sixteen he came out to this country alone, as a traveller, in some busi. ness; that he loves his own people and his friends, and hopes, some day, to revisit them 3 but that it is probable the duties of his calling will detain him in America for years. I would stake my ex. istence upon the honour and integrity of that boy ; he will prove a fine example of the advantages of early collision and of self-reliance. I have heard the Lord’s Prayer quoted as an argument for keeping boys out of the indurating process of early tempta- tion. I cannot think that the words alluded to have any other sense than of an individual petition Every boy wrapped in what the canny Scotch wife calls the ‘blue blanket? hem ‘sow their It must be remembered 0 wickedness, though ‘it worse than inian Uni- its founder) at their ex. that weakness comes nigh t may not be (as the old proverb has it) wickedness. The Professors at the Virg Versity tell me they regret that J efferson ( placed it away from a town. I asked wh x2 307 rs a mse Pig 308 CHARLESTON, perience led them to think of home education for young men, and received the same answer as I have already from experienced heads of houses at Oxford and Cambridge: that all the care of a virtuous home will not make up for the life-training of the world, best given at an age when the temptations of vice have less strength, and its ugliness is more apparent than it will be some years later. I con- sider this subject as one of such overwhelming im- portance to the Christian and moral welfare of those concerned, that no scruples, either of affection or interest, shall induce me to conceal these opinions, or mask my own convictions. Charleston, January 29.—A cold day yesterday, and wet all this morning. I have only made ac- quaintance with some friends of Mr. and Mrs. R——. They took me last night to what I should not have seen of my own accord in America, Waugh’s Italia removed; it consists of beautiful panoramic views of all the finest sights and views in Italy. I never met with anything superior of the kind, and I hope they may some day be taken to England. This hotel is very good; much better ordered than Willard’s, at Washington; or even than the St. Nicholas, at New York, in point of real comfort, although less gorgeously furnished than the latter. Of this city I have as yet seen nothing; but the streets and houses appear to be tion for I have Oxford rirtuous of the tions of s more I con- ng im- fare of fection jinions, terday, de ac- | Mrs, should nerica, autiful | views ‘ior of taken better - even int of nished ; seen to be NEGRO CHARACTERISTICS, 3°09 Sr Reena eS clean and well kept. Last night I heard parties of darkies singing, as they passed the windows, those negro melodies the airs of which have become familiar in England. Music, nursing, washing, and cooking are their peculiar talents, and cheerfulness their special virtue. After dinner to-day I had the first good orange I have tasted since I came South. It has surprised me to find that fruit is more scarce and dearer in Virginia and Carolina than with us, I am not to see orange trees till I reach Florida ; and throughout the United States their fruit is much less plentiful than in England—perhaps at New Orleans I may find it otherwise. Sweet potatoes and turtle are both frequent at the dinner-table of this hotel. This evening one of my pleasant Wash- ington acquaintances, Mr, P——, came to see me, and we are to go together to-morrow, to call on Mrs. H It has poured all the morning, so I have not been out. This is a fine day; several ladies and gentlemen of this place called on me, and I received Mr. and Mrs. H——, who forestalled my intention, by coming to me. Professor and Mrs. Gibbs took me to make a sketch of the Ettewan and Yamassee Rivers from the Battery, at White Point. There I saw the first palmetto I have yet met with in the open air; and, on my return to the hotel, a gentleman told me the Isabel steamer had just brought a cargo of oranges 310 THE TILLANDSIA USNOIDES., ae from Cuba. In one garden this morning I saw a standard orange-tree, with some fruit upon it, but it was supposed not to be sweet ; and since that I have found several of the same, bearing only what we should call Seville oranges. The timber-trees of Magnolia grandiflora all about this place are fine, and must be beautiful in summer, but this severe winter renders vegetation very backward ; and I see some of the live oaks (Quercus virens) rather cut by the cold. The Tillandsia usnoides (called everywhere here by the name of hanging moss), having the appearance, at a little distance, of our hair-like lichens, dresses most of the trees, but specially the live oak, with its graceful pendu- lous bunches, sometimes hanging a yard and a half long; the stem is not larger than a thread, set with small; rounded, frosted white leaves ; the little sweet-scented, reddish, purplish flowers come out at the end of the rope-like stems which swing about in the breeze. They steep this Tillandsia in water, and use its black, hair-like fibres for stuffing mattresses and pillows; the seeds being light, are carried about by the wind, and stick and fructify in all the trees around ; yet it seems difficult to cultivate, for I have never seen it in our English Epiphyte houses. The temperature of any greenhouse would suit its constitution, but I imagine it reqnires to be blown about; and a still atmosphere is probably uncongenial MRE teeener mame tenes ete see I saw a a it, but e that I nly what ber-trees lace are but this ckward ; - virens) usnoirles hanging ance, of e trees, pendu- 1 a half ad, set 1e little out at bout in er, and tresses | about e trees for I 10uUses, uit its blown genial BOTANIZING. gir Saree etre eereeeineineancteeneeeiiniormnd aie i to the habits of this pretty waving plant. I have seen a live oak as large as any of our British oaks, having upon it as many tufts of Tillandsia as leaves ; it does not appear to be injurious like the mistletoe, but adds to the beauty of its adopted parent without shortening the life of whatever sustaining tree may Support it. I drank tea at Mrs. R ’s, and spent a pleasant evening with Mr. and Mrs. H January 30.—Professor and Mrs, Gibbs called for me at eleven in the morning, and we had a de- lightful day in the open air, botanizing, &. Dr. Gibbs knew every plant and seed. For the first time I found yarras and cactuses in the hedge- tows ; ferns, such as Polypodium incanum, plentiful on ancient live oaks, Asplenium ebeneum, and Bo- trychium Virginianum, in an English-looking lane ; the beautiful little Houstonia serpyllifolia, and Mitchella repens, with scarlet twin berries ; Prunus Caroliniaria ; and the J asmine-coloured Gelsemium sempervirens twining up it, and through the hedges of Ilex cassine. I often feel in this country as if I had been removed to a new heavens and a new earth, and as if my enjoyments now are a foretaste of worlds where space and time will open out fresh delights, in a fuller comprehension of the mighty Creator and his mighty works. At a pretty spot called Gibbs’ Farm, belonging to some part of the Professor’s family, we passed great 312 MAGNOLIA CEMETERY. part of the morning ; in a small garden belonging to it, I gathered bundles of that beautiful paper Nar- cissus, so rare in England, and I knocked down what is here called a sour orange (alias bitter) from a fine bush thirty feet high. Then after making a sketch of that picturesque homestead, with its venerable oaks, the Tillandsia, imitating the white beard and silvery locks of age, Mrs. Gibbs placed at my feet a basket filled with oranges and bananas from Cuba, for lunch, and I made these a foreground for my drawing. We again got into the carriage and made our progress to Magnolia Cemetery. Owing to the usual recklessness of American habits, we had to cross a railroad which runs for some way along the side of the road: we had hardly passed over it a moment, when the train rushed by; there is not even a slight fence to divide the iron from the common track, and they say horses get used to the cars, and men to the necessary caution, so that after a little practice, few accidents occur ; of course, cows and oxen and sheep are smashed now and then, but the Company pays, and that is all. I never cross these roads without a sensation of terror. Magnolia Cemetery is pretty; it has a chapel built like a country church in England ; in style, simple perpen- dicular Gothic, with a light and elegant spire. The grounds are ornamented by a creek, which makes its way up from the Ettewan River, and its waters, even ing to Nar- down from aking h its white ed at 1anas ‘ound > and ag to ad to . the it a even mon and little and the hese olia ea en- The sits ven MAGNOLIA CEMETERY. 313 Seige Ee oe en here, are rather salt, I sketched the entrance and chapel, and then a fine live oak, with Charleton and the Accabee River uniting itself to the ocean in the distance ; a foreground of tombs, which are here well chosen in point of taste, and without those white boundary posts which I have mentioned as dis- figuring Greenwood, Hamilton, and some of the other burying-grounds in Canada and the United States, which are otherwise so far in advance of the mother country in sentiment and beauty. Republi- canism forgets itself in the concerns of the grave and of immortality. Strange that when all are really Supposed equal, love and truth banishes the equality which is emblematical of pride, and cultivates only the freedom of virtue! There is more love of nature evinced in the cemeteries of America, than in the arrangements for the living: life is the myth, eternity the reality of existence ; beautiful flowers are cultivated for the dead; taste is pure, and feeling uncontaminated by dollars and cents. The monu- ments, tombs, and inscriptions are generally pathetic and interesting, free from the bombast and posthu- mous flattery too common in England. As the families are together in these last homes, usually the surname marks each entrance gate; within, one often sees a marble urn, or slab, marked with little more than ‘our brother,’ ‘a dearly loved sister,’ “my wife,’ ‘little Addy,’ ‘our kind parents,’ ‘two 314 SOUTHERN HABITS. Me aeiheiletetliAiemieeatmieubiites sdisladiciakicaiuu 1 precious babes,’ &c. &. These simple words attract the sympathy of strangers and awaken the tenderness of friends far more than eulogies. I never walk through these cemeteries without a sensation of pleasure derived from the consciousness of Christian brotherhood, rather than of sorrow from that of our common fate. Here I realize more that we shalt ali be made alive again, than that we shall all die. Till sunset we remained out ; there was little temptation to veturn home for dinner; I was most willing to exchange it for tea; and afterwards my pleasant ‘Washington friend called and took me to a little dancing party, at the house of one of his married daughters, where I saw young ladies more natural, and more gracefully and simply attired, than in the Northern States; both the tone of voice and the choice of words and pronunciation are much more like old England as one proceeds further south ; the habits simpler and more unostentatious, and the dress of every-day wear is suitable and gentlewoman like, instead of being, as in the North, unbecoming, stiff, and extravagant ; the young women plastering their hair, and wearing silks fit for their grandmothers, and the middle aged spending hours in repairing the ravages of time, by studious artifi- cial contrivances, which, after all, make themselves evident to the most superficial observers. January 31.—I spent a delightful day with Mrs. H » who took me out to her cottage, four attract lerness r walk ion of ristian of our . shall all all s little ; most ds my 2 to a of his more |, than e and much irther tious, > and North, omen their hours artifi. selves Mrs. four BELMONT. 315 en eseaniessniniseunnnstncahepsfesiaipens a. miles’ distance ; there we. provisionally planted the ferns and other treasures I took up on Tuesday. She will let them grow there until I am ready to receive them at Boston, next September, to be planted in my Ward’s case. Belmont is a charming spot ; it is (like the Southern ladies) not over dressed ; it has the Ettewan on one side, and the forest on the other; slaves who are adopted children, and Irish labourers who have adopted a master and mistress. I begged to go into a negro cottage in the wood ; the parents were out, and we found only a covey of tiny darkies,’ from two years to eight—‘ very like monkeys,’ as Adeline would have said. The negro race never sit down to a meal if they can possibly avoid doing so; they have always some sticks burning, and a kind of pot au feu; in one corner of the tolerably comfortable abode was a fishing-net, and another net held an omnium gatherum of eat- ables; no great attention to cleanliness, but the appearance of everything out of doors was like that of a small farm in England—cows, chickens, &c. &e. I begin to think we anti-slavers and abolitionists are as much blinded by names as the republicans, who think they have shaken off an aristocracy because they have got rid of dukes and duchesses, and lords and ladies. I must extract some observations from a work published here, which my short experience of a slave country induces me unhesitatingly to adopt as my own. “Slavery may not be the best system of labour, but 316 OBSERVATIONS ON SLAVERY. Heateranaeutcaummmmeraerese ree eT eal eee it is the best for the negro in this country. If it be true of the English soldier or sailor, that his con- dition has been ameliorated in the last fifty years, it is quite as true of the negro. Slavery is that system of labour which exchanges » ‘ence for work, which secures a life maintenanc-. .-um the master to the slave, and gives a life labour from the slave to the master. Slavery is the negro system of labour : he is lazy and improvident ; slavery makes him work, and ensures him a home, food, and clothing ; it pro- vides for sickness, infancy, and old age; allows no tramping or skulking, and knows no pauperism. All cruelty is an abuse; does not belong to the institu- tion; is contrary to law; may be punished, pre- vented, and removed. If slavery is subject to abuses, it has its compensations also 3 it establishes perma- nent, and therefore kind, relations between labour and capital. It does away with what Stuart Mill calls ‘the widening and embittering feud between labour and capital.’ It draws close the relation between master and servant; it is not an engagement for days, weeks, but for life. The most wretched fea- ture in hireling labour is the isolated, miserable creature who has no home, no work, no food, and in whom no one is particularly interested. Slavery does for the negro what European schemers in vain attempt to do for the hireling, On every plantation the master is a poor-law commissioner, to provide OBSERVATIONS ON SLAVERY. 317 snocitcaeNemacenorece es food, clothing, medicine, houses, for his people. He is a police officer to prevent idleness, drunkenness, theft, or disorder; there is therefore no starvation among slaves, and comparatively few crimes. The poet tells us there are worse things in the world than hard labour; ‘ withouten that would come a heavier bale ;’ and so there are worse things for the negro than slavery in a Christian land. Archbishop Hughes, in his visit to Cuba, asked Africans if they wished to return to their native country ; the answer was always, No. If the negro is happier here than in his own land, can we say that slavery is an evil to him? Slaves and masters do not quarrel with their circumstances; is it not hard that the stranger should interfere to make both discontented i¢ ‘All Christians believe that the affairs of this world are directed by God for wise and good purposes. The arrival of the negro in America makes no exception to that rule—his transportation was arude method of emigration, the only practi- cable one in his case. Until this Operation was interfered with and made piratical, it was not attended with the wretchedness often exhibited by the emigrant ship, even now, notwithstanding the passenger law. What the ultimate end of slavery may be we cannot presume to guess ; but we can see much good already resulting—good to the negro in his improved condition—good to the country 318 OBSERVATIONS ON SLAVERY. ernment ppeeeenennenesteeninnsiretneeeereinetie sie, whose rich fields he has made productive in climates at first unfit for the white man—and good to the continent of Africa, as furnishing the only means of effectually civilizing its people. Whether Mr, Clarkson or Lord Carlisle approve of the mode in which it has pleased Providence to bring this about, the result will probably be the same. There has been malignant abuse lavished upon the slave. holders of America by writers in this country and in England ; they consider abuses as its necessary condition, and a cruel master its fair representative, They have no knowledge of the thing abused ; they substitute an ideal for a reality. They have shown as little regard for truth and common sense, as we should do if we were to gather up all the atrocities committed in Great Britain by husbands and wives, parents and children, masters and servants, and denounce these several relations in life in conse- quence of their abuses. If because of the evils incident to hireling labour, because there are heart- less, grinding employers, and miserable, starved labourers, it should be proposed to abolish work for hire, it would be quite as logical as the argument for the abolition of slavery because there are suffer- ings among slaves, and hard hearts among masters. The cruelty or suffering is no more a necessary part of our system than it is of the other. To attempt to establish the hiring plan with Africans is as Wise OBSERVATIONS ON SLAVERY. 319 eee as to endeavour to establish the constitutional government of England in Ashantee or Dahomey. Carlyle says that the world will not permit Cuffy to lie on his back and eat pumpkins for ever, in a country intended by Providence to produce coffee, sugar, and spices for the use of all mankind ; and that he must, one of these days, resume his work for Brother J onathan, or some other master. The blacks in Hayti have only changed masters ; they are the slaves of a black chief, as in Africa. Their pagan mummeries have been resumed ; they are engaged in petty wars, instead of peaceful labours, The Emperor has his standing army, and is as anxious as more important potentates to employ it in the legitimate business of cutting throats. The African cannot originate a civilization of his own; from the slave civilized and instructed by slavery can any regeneration of the African continent be alone looked for. We must believe that Christianity will at last be established in Africa, and carry there the improvement which always attends its steps. This is not to be accomplished suddenly by any convulsive movement, but slowly and gradually,—it is in this way only that Providence effects his great purposes. The black race always perishes if placed, as manumission would place it, in competition with the white. There is an obvious and irremovable dissimilarity between the white and black race. 320 OBSERVATIONS ON SLAVERY. alii tila The number of blacks in Canada and in the northern States is only kept up by the addition of freed or Th runaway slaves. In slavery they increase, as free br they die out; therefore it is that the blacks in M America cannot be made free for their own sakes, Tor even if it were desirable they should be for their Lan master’s. Manumission would injure both.’ ri ‘Alas! for distant Philanthropy! Whatever griefs Osh and vices may be discovered in the southern States, I be fear their prototypes are to be discovered in London, 4 in Paris, and even in New York. Let us take out ¢ the beam from our own eyes before we make our. 2 selves so busy with the motes in those of our neigh- ¢ bour; and instead of abusing each other, let us assist 7 in bearing one another’s burdens, and the sorrows H and faults of each will be leasened by division. Os a Friday, February 2.—Yesterday I saw much of the | interest in the Museum, had a pleasant dinner at “hg Mrs. R ’s, and went to an evening party at pols Mrs. J. de R——’s._ This day we embark for aan Savannah and Florida, to return the 1 5th, and to ah embark for Cuba the 19th. No time for more Hoe at present. Goodbye. do Yours affectionately, ms c A. M. M. Joh Edi END OF VOL. I. rthern eed or s free cks in sakes, - their griefs ates, I ondon, ke out e our- neigh- assist NTOWS ch of ler at ty at k for id to more M. STANDARD BOOKS PUBLISHED BY JOHN W. PARKER & SON, LONDON. ——— The Spanish Conquest in America, and its Relation to ti History of Slavery and to the Government of Colonies, BY Antnur Huups, Vols. 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